29.01.2018
The great adventure started with a week in Kathmandu to sort out my China Visa.
After some long flights with short connections I (and my luggage) arrived finally in Nepals capital City. The pre-booked hotel had sent a free airport pick up, so no haggeling for a taxi. The winter air in Kathmandu is full of dust and smog. However, it is nice to be back! It has been 8 years since I was here last.
Checked in and settled in the friendly Kathmandu Eco Guesthouse in Thamel, it was time for dinner – an Everest Beer had my name on it!
30.01.2018
The next morning my contact picked up my passport and visa application for China. I will be calmer once that came through! It will take 3 working days, so I had some time to explore.
Of course, I had to wander to Durbar Square, which unfortunately is after the 2015 earthquake only a shadow of its former self. Nevertheless, the entrance fee for foreigners is a hefty NPR 1000. Let’s hope that goes towards restoring the destroyed temples. Not all are gone, though, and what is still there is definitely worth visiting. The ticket can be changed into a Visitor’s Pass at the site office, so it is valid until the end of one’s Nepal Visa.
In the afternoon I followed another of my traditions and met with Nita and her daughter Niki. Nita’s ex-husband was one of my penfriends way back when there we’re no e-mail, Facebook, WhatsApp in the 1980s. First time we met in 1998 and regularly every few years after that. Niki has grown up now being a nursing student.
31.01.2018
Today I had breakfast with Phurngima Sherpa, family of my Dad’s wife.
The rest of the day I wandered the streets of Thamel window shopping and getting a fantastic massage at Ananda Spa & Natural Therapy Center.
In the evening I had the best Thai food outside of Thailand at Ying Yang Restaurant Thamel chased by a Khumbu Kölsch. Who would have thought to brew Kölsch in Nepal?
Later I climbed up to the rooftop of the hotel and watched the 3-Moon-Show — Supermoon, “Blue Moon” and Total Lunar Eclipse. Luckily enough right at the start of the eclipse the moon came out over the smog of the city.
01.02.2018
Today I took a taxi out to Bodnath Stupa, which is one of the most important sites for buddhist pilgrims from Nepal and the surrounding Himalayas. It has been wonderfully restored after major damage in the 2015 earthquake.
I walked around it a few times on all possible levels and than had a lemon soda in one of the many rooftop cafés people watching and soaking up the atmosphere.
I walked all the way back to Thamel from there which was a good legstretch and interesting.
Back in the tourist hub of Thamel it was time for lunch on a sunny rooftop and another massage!
02.02.2018
Again I took a taxi, today to Patan. Another NPR 1000 entrance fee for foreigner to Durbar Square Patan. The site was also effected by the 2015 earthquake and there is a lot of restoration going on as well.
I wandered the side streets and then all the way back to Thamel which made again for an interesting day.
Lunch I took on Helena’s Rooftop in Thamel with a rather hazy view of Swayambhunath Stupa in the distance followed by yet another massage at Ananda Spa (Am I addicted or what?).
In the evening Niki picked me up with her Scooter and drove me all across the city through hair raising traffic to a tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant Thakali Kitchen in Lalitpur. We sat in the courtyard had the best Mutton Curry Dal Bhat.
And finally today my passport was delivered back with a China Group Visa valid till April. That has my time in China covered and it was much less hassle than getting it in Germany. However, entering Tibet via Nepal the visa must be issued in Kathmandu with a Tibet Permit carried by the local guide after arriving in Tibet.
03.02.2018
Yet another another taxi today this time to Swayambhunath which is located on a hill west of Thamel. Swayambhunath is considered one of the oldest bhuddist tempels in the world and was also effected by the 2015 earthquake. It unfortunately lost it’s 2 white hinduistic towers which used to flank the stupa. Like everywhere in Kathmandu Buddhist and Hindu religious sites are closely meshed, so the stupa is surrounded by some Hindu temple.
The fee for foreigner is here NPR 200. There is a fab view over the City – normally – but not this time because of all the dust and smog.
I cheated and had the taxi drop me off at the bus park neat the top, so less stairs to climb to the top.
I walked down the many steps, though and then around the hill to Amadeva Buddha Park. I am a sucker for huge Buddhas in the landscape and here are 3 giant golden Buddhas in a garden and no entrance fee for a change.
The walk back to Thamel was pleasant and today I did not have a massage, believe or not.
But I did meet Agnimee Sherpa, family of my Dad’s wife, for the best yoghurt ice cream at Milk&Honey.
04.02.2018
On my last day in Kathmandu I decided to take a local bus for NPR 20 to the Budhanilkantha Vishnu Temple. The bus ride was ca. 30 min and the foreigner was of course the attraction.
The Budhanilkantha temple is somewhat off the tourist grit, but I remembered it from another visit. It is a sleeping Vishnu seemingly floating in a tank.
After spending some time people watching I took the bus back to Thamel.
It was time for a last massage at Ananda Spa and some serious shopping. Cannot leave Kathmandu with some new typical clothing! And then it was packing!
Tomorrow I am off to Lhasa!
