27.02.2019
Leaving the Street Art District I needed to find the stop of Bus 522 – which was on the other end of Lodhi Colony …. But I found it quickly and did not have to wait long until a bus came. It was pretty packed and habitually I stayed where I could, watched my stuff and eventually got a seat right behind the driver. It was a pretty long ride of at least 30 min in heavy traffic.
It was the first time I used the bus in Delhi. Before I was always on the Metro. Being used to the public busses in Mumbai I expected a conductor to come and sell me a ticket. But nothing happened … nobody came … and I could not see somebody resembling a conductor either … Hmmm … OK … The driver did not care either … Not his task to sell tickets anyway … Whenever the bus got stuck on a long red traffic light the driver got out to have a quick smoke … That was more important …
Eventually we reached the junction where I had to change the bus and got off – I felt bad for not having paid the ticket of Rs 10 … but what could I do? Next I had to take Bus 534 for only 3 stops to DFL Mall. My next mission was the Hard Rock Café Delhi. When the relevant bus came I got on in the back door this time. The bus was not as packed and … Aahhhh … there by the back door a conductor sat! He did not wear a uniform, but he was clearly the conductor. He had a wad of notes between his fingers, a bundle of tickets in the other hand and a big wallet. Everybody went to him paying the ticket. So I did as well. It was only Rs 5 to my stop.
Getting off at DFL Mall I was stunned – it all seemed closed and under reconstruction or such. But I had checked online and the Hard Rock Café was supposed to be open. Purposefully I walked to the mall entrance security check. Of course they told me the mall was closed – Yes, I can see that, but I want to go to Hard Rock! – Aahh, Hard Rock! Yes yes! Open! Go!
It was weird walking through the closed mall and out the other side again, but there I found a busy stretch were several representatives of restaurants had set up welcome desks. I went straight for the HRC one and was escorted through a back door – another security check – and up some stairs to the entrance of the restaurant. Aahhh, now I remember!
I had once before visited this particular Hard Rock Café. When I accompanied my first Ganges Tour in 2016 we were in Delhi on our last day January 26 – India Republic Day. Many of the sights had been shut and some of the city districts had been closed for security reasons, therefore we returned from our city tour much earlier than planned and I had actually time to spare before dinner with the guests. I figured I had time for one cocktail! We were staying at Ibis Hotel Aerocity and I recruited a tuk tuk to take me to the mall. It was a crazy ride – traffic was a bitch – and I told the driver to wait outside the mall, I would be quick! How knows if I would find a tuk tuk to take the long way back in time and he had to go back anyway …
The mall was open back then and packed with people, but Hard Rock Café was empty … a big sign on the door – Republic Day = Dry day! – Oh damn, I had forgotten … No alcohol on Republic Day, especially not in the capital city …. Quickly I took my mandatory photo without a cocktail and then bought a pin in the Rock Shop. At least that I needed!
Then I ran back down and searched for my tuk tuk driver – he had been running circles around the mall because he was not allowed to park where he had let me off. Fortunately, he recognized me easily and waved frantically when passing again, so I could hop on quickly on the run. Another crazy ride back to the hotel and I paid him extra for the fun – I was back right in time for dinner with the guests.
This time I was visiting in mid-afternoon and the restaurant was almost empty. With the closed mall, there were only guest who came deliberately here. I got a nice table in the corner and ordered my mandatory Electric Ice Tea – Please, can you serve it in a logo glass? Please? – Yes, of course, madam. – Since the Honey Citrus Salad was so good in Mumbai, I opted for this one again along with an order of Chicken Wings.
The food was good – unfortunately the salad was not as good as in Mumbai – I think they might have run out of the proper dressing and had used some Indian spices as well … Yeah, I like Indian food, but I come here to eat something different … The wings were great, though, only that the garnish was not as fancy as it was supposed to be in HRC. But well, I am not complaining … too much … it was good.
I took a look around the restaurant and the memorabilia – it was definitely nicer than the HRC in Mumbai. But it was as empty at this time of the day. I suppose with the ongoing renovation of the mall it would not be as busy as usual anyway … I did take a look at the Rock Shop, but they did not have any new or cool pins of Delhi other than I had already, unfortunately.
I left and took Bus 534 towards Qutub Minar … I was on another cocktail mission! It was a relatively short ride, maybe 30 min through heavy traffic to Merhauli Village behind Qutub Minar. Since it was still too early for sundowners I walked through the bazaar street of the village for a while. I was looking for a tiger to take to Assam – I wanted a small plush toy, but could not find one. In the end I ended up with a tiger balloon!
Mehrauli is lying on the south-west of Delhi and is one of the most important group of villages which developed around the shrine of the Sufi Saint Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, popularly known as Qutb Sahib. The settlement of Mehrauli has evolved over several centuries, each layer leaving an imprint of its own in the development of the village. Probably the oldest area of Delhi to have been continuously inhabited, it is adjacent to the site of the fortified city of Lal Kot founded in 1060.
It is today one of the hundred odd traditional urban villages within the city of Delhi and is a culturally rich area consisting of several historic structures dating from different periods. The market spine is lined with secular buildings of the late Mughal period while the village has its own traditional local architecture.
It was a busy bazaar with much to see. Most tourists only visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site Qutub Minar which is next to the village – I had been there numerous time by now with groups. But I had never known that there is a lively village just behind the ruins.
I had come here on a cocktail mission – there are supposed to be a few very good restaurant bars around here. I wanted to visit the one with the supposedly best view over Qutub Minar! On the way there I passed something very interesting – there was some sort of administrative office – I totally forgot to check what it was, though. I was absolutely amazed by all the writers in front. I do know that often forms and papers have to be written or filled in properly and I had seen typewriters lined up in front of such offices many times around India. But I had not seen it in a long time and I thought that by now everything is done by computer. But no – there was a long line of folding tables set up with old-fashioned typewriters. At the moment they did not seem busy – it was late afternoon and probably the civil servants in the building behind them were already finished for the day. Likely they were most busy in the mornings, when the offices were open.
Further down the road I reached the Dramz Roof Top Bar. It is actually Dramz Whisky Bar and Lounge and an establishment with a dress code. Since I was here long after the lunch crowd and way before the evening crowd and taking into account I was a foreigner, I was hopeful they would let me in – I just walked confidently through the gate and did not even give the security guy a chance to turn me down. The venue had multiple stories, but once inside I just asked – as confidently – for the way to the roof top bar and was pointed up the stairs. Reaching the bar I immediately saw, that the best view would be from the top terrace and turned towards the last set of stairs. Dramz definitely offers an unparalleled view of the Qutab Minar from the terrace! Once settled on the top, they told me I had to go one floor down because up here was no service at the moment. – What? Why? – But I obeyed and went down. The view was still awesome, though.
I started out with a Rose Blossom Cocktail and took it for a photo to the upstairs terrace. The sun was not yet setting, but the view of Qutub Minar was spectacular! The Qutb Minar is a minaret that forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Qutb complexand is a 73 m tall tapering tower of 5 storeys. Construction was started around 1192 and was eventually finished in 1369.
The cocktail was not that spectacular – jeez, it was way too sweet. I had to add plenty water to be able to drink it – and I am usually not fuzzy when it comes to cocktails! Nevermind, the view recouped for the inadequate cocktail quality. It was just magnificent seeing the monument from a totally different angle – I would be coming back the day after tomorrow to visit it from the other side again.
Hoping a second cocktail would be better, I ordered a Green Martini Froze. But it was not any better than the first cocktail … disgustingly sweet … But the view recouped for that one as well … and more water added for better taste.
Around 18:00 I left and walked to the bus stop where I had to wait a very long time for a Bus 534A. It was after work rush hour … Even busses got stuck in traffic … Did I meantion that there are no bus lanes in India? Like you know them from the Western wolrd? No, busses get stuck intraffic same as everyone else … Schedules are not really relevant here … I was already thinking about ordering an ola or uber, but they were all stuck in traffic as well … I waited and waited … and even changed the bus stop to the next main junction – more options there … eventually a bus going in my direction came … It took me through rush hour traffic to Mahipalpur Extension which is just opposite Aerocity … and took seemingly forever … It was dark by the time I reached my destination …
Due to its location just opposite Aerocity, in the past decade or so Mahipalpur has emerged as Delhi’s largest budget hotel hub after central Delhi’s Paharganj. The village, which once had warehouses, factory outlets and car workshops, today boasts more than 150 hotels, half of them owned by villagers, who proudly term themselves farmers-turned-hoteliers.
While Aerocity is a concentration for fancy and expensive international chain hotels, here the counterparts – midrange and budget hotels – are lined up along the main road.
I had to get off the bus at Mahipalpur junction which was just accross the National Highway NH 8 from the Aerocity Metro Station and Aerocity. Before going to my hotel, though, I went in search of beer. Unfortunately, I did not find a Beer Shop within walking distance … Later I learnt that in 2017 an order prohibiting the sale of liquor within 500 m of national and state highways across the country came into effect … So I had to do without beer today … and stick to my medicinial Vodka … Fortunately, I found a 24seven shop where they sold proper Schweppes Tonic water! Happy!
I was back in my hotel room around by 19:30 and did the same routine as usual – watch TV, post photos, write some and watch more TV, drink Vodka … sleep …
28.02.2019
As usual I got up early in the morning and did some work and writing until 10:30. There is always a lot of digital paperwork to be prepared before a tour and I refuse to do it more than one day in advance. That is mainly because I am freelance and only get paid from the arrival of the guest … Why should I waste more of my precious free time for that?
Then it was time to check out. I packed up and left my luggage for a while with the bell boy of Red Fox Hotel. I had to print some lists for the next tour and the business center was located next door in the Lemon Tree Premier Hotel. I know my way around there and the use of the business center, because I had used it many times when stopping there with groups. It is free of charge for hotel guests and since the two hotels were associated, it was very convenient.
Quickly I was done, picked up my luggage and made my way to the Aerocity Metro Station. It was only 2 stops to the end of the line at Dwarka Sector 21. From there I walked the few minutes to Vivanta by Taj.
Check-in was no problem at Vivanta by Taj Dwarka – Hello madam, welcome back again! – My room was ready and I just had to wait for my luggage to be brought up. After a quick shower and a change I was on my way again.
Back at the metro station, I took the Airport Express Line for 3 stations to Dhaula Kuan again. Today’s mission was to visit the National Rail Museum. For train buffs like me, the National Rail Museum is one of the museums in Delhi not to be missed. I walked for quite a while from the metro station toward the museum until I found a tuk tuk to take me the rest of the way for Rs 50.
Entrance fee for the museum was all of Rs 50! The National Rail Museum is located in Chanakyapuri Diplomatic Enclave and displays exhibits on the history of rail transport in India. The museum was inaugurated in 1977 and spans over some 40000 m².
Railway in India was first developed during British rule for easy transportation of goods. This move was followed by adding passenger carriages – the first passenger journey was complete in 1853 between Bombay and Thane. Since then Indian Railway has seen many changes and advancements and the National Rail Museum is the narration of the journey of Indian Railways from 1853 to today.
In a very large parklike setting many tracks held a grand array of locomotives and coaches of all kinds. My favourites were the narrow gauge toy trains of India. I loved the old trains and I had already new travel plans in my head to visit the real thing.
They had a few of the historic coaches and locos from the Darjeeling Toy Train, which I unfortunately have not taken yet. The Darjeeling toy train, officially known as the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, is the oldest of India’s historic mountain railways. Completed in 1881, it transports passengers through the lower reaches of the Eastern Himalayas to the rolling hills and lush green tea plantations of Darjeeling. The first time I tried in 1995 the town was on strike and the train not running – and I vaguely remember being an a shoestring and the bus being cheaper anyway … The second time in 2011 it was the same thing … I guess, I have to try again one day.
In 2017 I took the Nilgiri Mountain Railways. The toy train that runs there is the highlight of a visit to the hill station of Ooty, which was established by the British as the summer headquarters of their government in Madras. Although the railway was proposed in 1854, it was not completed until 1908 as rocky terrain and thickly forested hills made the work difficult. I had a fab time there since I actually took it twice. One day I just did a return journey on the 19 km the Ooty to Coonoor route offered – with the most spectacular scenery along this way. The journey was slow and gave ample opportunity to discover nature’s bounties. The second day I took the toy train from Ooty all the way down to Mettupalayam – it runs 46 km completely through the picturesque Nilgiri Mountains and the journey is worth the time spending – almost 5 hrs if nothing happens.
The lesser-known Matheran toy train – which I finally took a few weeks ago – had its first run in 1907. It deposits passengers amid the shady greenery of the peaceful, pollution-free hill settlement of Matheran – where all vehicles are banned, even bicycles. The journey starts at Neral, about halfway between Mumbai and Pune. No steam train was running here anymore, but still it was fab!
Still on my bucket list is besides the Darjeeling toy train also the the historic Kalka-Shimla toy train, which is a popular way of reaching Shimla, which was once the summer capital of British rulers. The railway was completed in 1903 and provides one of the most picturesque train journeys in India. And also th Kangra Valley Railway, completed in 1929, which was the last mountain railway to be built. Its lengthy track extends for 164 km from Pathankot in Punjab to Joginder Nagar in Himachal Pradesh, via Kangra (near Dharamsala) and Palampur.
The National Railway Museum has a fascinating and exotic collection of over 100 real size exhibits of Indian Railways. The line-up of old coaches includes the handsome Prince of Wales Saloon, built in 1875. Not to be outdone is the Maharaja of Mysore’s Saloon built in 1899 with its brocade covered chairs and an elegant rosewood bed – one can peer in through the windows for a good look. I did not, though.
One of the locos made me laugh … – inside joke again ….
Apart from the outdoor display, the museum also has an interior museum. Static and working models, signaling equipments, antique furnitures, historical photographs and related literature etc. are displayed there. The exhibition was surprisingly well organized and maintained. It covered the entire history of the Indian Railway and also the technical side. There were old photos, models of trains etc.
Very interesting, indeed. The train models were especially cool. Not small tiny play mobiles, no, quite large and very detailed models of many of the special Indian trains.
There was also a model display of the very first Steam Circus. In 1804 the inventor, Richard Trevithick, build the world’s first steam train. 70 spectators jumped onto the 5 wagons becoming the first ever steam railway for passengers. He called the new locomotive Catch Me Who Can. In the summer of 1808 Trevithick brought his idea to London and erected a circular railway or steam circus in Euston Square in London. During the months of July and August people paid a shilling a time to ride in a carriage pulled by Trevithick’s locomotive. Huge crowds viewed and travelled on it.
Coming out of the indoor exhibition my eye caught another interesting engine – an old fire engine! Some men were fiddling with it to get it started. And it did start with a big puff and cloud of exhaust smoke! The John Morris fire engine was built by the famous fire engineers – John Morris and Sons Ltd. of Salford, Manchester in 1914. It was bought to India by the last Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osaman Ali Khan, for the then Nizam State Railways’ Lallaguda Carriage and Wagon Workshop Fire Station in 1946.
After a service of nearly 4 decades, the fire engine was finally retired in 1960, but is kept in working condition at the National Rail Museum till today. Powered by a 4-cylinder motor, it was one of the 2 earliest fire engines known to have existed in the world. Every piece in the fire engine is still functional – the gears change smoothly, the analog meters show readings accurately and the solid rubber tires are running strong. The other one of the 2 originals – in UK, is out of order…
Eventually I was ready for a drink and food – I had to pull myself away from the cool old engines I could not get enough of – I walked to a bus stop and took public bus 604 to Connaught Place. This time I knew to take the back door and pay my ticket with the conductor before finding a seat. The bus was packed but I got a seat anyway. It was a rather long trip of approx 40 min. I again followed the route on google maps, but the bus took a different road around Connaught Circle than the line indicated and I actually got off closer to the restaurant I had set my eyes on. In fact, I missed a stop and then asked them to drop me off along the road and luckily they did, so I did not have to backtrack too far. I had planned to try out Mother India Restaurant today – after all I could not go to Odeon Social every day ….
Mother India is a one-of-its-kind restaurant located in the heart of Delhi – that is how they advertise it. “It offers different varieties on its menu compiled from the various regions of India. The restaurant is a reflection of their diverse experiences with regional food and classic India. Located on the Outer Circle, Mother India leverages the rich culinary diversity of India. From North to South and along the Western and Coastal parts of India, their menu boasts hand-picked dishes. It focuses on authentic Indian style of cooking while providing a contemporary twist to the traditional ingredients.”
The restaurant was located at the outer CP Circle and I almost walked past it, but not quite. I had found it on the internet and I had liked the photos of the ambience. Mother India indeed has a splendidly cosy visual aesthetic. Think of rich old collaborators from the British Raj – ironic given its name, who liked paisley upholstery, a gramophone – of course – and war memorabilia. The theme, established right at the entrance with a big old Mother India film poster, is one of representation. Mother India is a 1957 Indian epic drama film and it is the story of a poverty-stricken village woman named Radha, who in the absence of her husband, struggles to raise her sons and survive against a cunning money-lender amidst many troubles.
The restaurant was fairly empty at around 15:00 in the afternoon – yes I know, I have a funny timing for eating. But hey, who say what is normal. I eat once a day while travelling and that might even be at 15:00 in the afternoon.
I started out with a cocktail – a Masala Gin Shikanji. It looked funny and tasted like Salty Lemon Soda with a twist. In fact it was Gin with chopped orange peel, cucumber, fresh coriander, honey and black salt topped with lemon. It was definitely different from all the cocktails I ever had … Not the best one I ever had, but different. Black Salt always has a funny taste – or better smell – to it … Black salt is rock salt called Kala namak and has a sulphurous, pungent-smell. The smell is mainly due to its sulfur content. It is also known as Himalayan black salt, Sulemani namak, bit lobon, kala noon or pada loon and manufactured from the salts mined in the regions surrounding the Himalayas. The condiment is composed largely of sodium chloride with several other components lending the salt its colour and smell. It forms brownish pink to dark violet translucent crystals when whole. When ground into a powder, its color ranges from purple to pink. Kala namak has been praised in Ayurveda and is used for its perceived medical qualities … There you go, a healthy cocktail!
For food I ordered Railways Mutton Curry – somewhere I read that that is a must and considering today’s railway theme it seemed fitting. Railway mutton curry is a British Raj colonial-era dish that was served on long distance trains. The dish was served with dinner rolls. Some restaurants serve the dish in present-day times in reminiscence of the old days. Mutton curry – also referred to as Goat curry and Lamb Curry – primary ingredients include mutton, onion, tomato and spices. I selected plain naan and mixed raita with it.
In some parts of Asia, particularly India, Pakistan, Nepal, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh, the word mutton is sometimes used to describe both goat and sheep meat, despite its more specific meaning, limited to the meat of adult sheep, in other English-speaking countries. The usage of the term mutton is actually a British legacy. The British knew mutton – sheep meat – only. Travelling India extensively I have not seen as many sheep as goats, definitely not enough sheep to justify the many mutton dishes on all the restaurant menus … Imagine, being in a fancy hotel with a group of tourists and the menu read Goat Curry … Outrageous! … But reading Mutton Curry is much more … reassuring. And with all the spices which tourist would taste the difference anyway?
Today this Railway Mutton Curry was average good. Somewhat it seemed to be cooked for tourists … not for the regular local Indian. Had I ended up in a tourist place? But no, no other tourists were here, only a couple Indian guests. Maybe it was too early anyway. Not dinner time yet … Anyway, the food was OK, but not the best Indian food I ever had, definitely not for this price. I ate it up anyway. And now I can say I had Railway Mutton Curry!
Of course I had to have another cocktail. Their Signature Cocktail list was looking very interesting. I am always open for special cocktails. I mean, plain old regular cocktails you can have anywhere and everywhere. Therefore I always look to order the signature cocktails. You know, a White Russian @ The Astoria in St. Petersburg, a Kia Ora Blue Lagoon in Rangiroa, Pisco Sour in Machu Picchu, a Black Russian @ Hotel Metropole Moscow, Bellini Ciel de Paris @ 56 Ciel de Paris Tour Montparnasse or a Blue Footed Boobie in Puerto Ayora Galapagos ….
At Mother India the cocktails were very interesting with local spices. Sure something I had not seen on a menu anywhere else. So a Mast Paan Cocktail was my next choice. It was a Beatle Nut flavoured white rum based Caribbean Mojito.
It was accually really really good and I loved it. It did taste like paan which I had tried once in Udaipur at the Holi celebrations in 2017. Holi, the festival of colors is one of the most popular of Indian festivals and is celebrated when winter gives way to spring. Holika Dahan is the first day of the popular festival. On this day a pious fire is lit on the full moon night of Phalguna month of the Hindu calendar. According to Hindu mythology, it demonstrates the triumph of divine power over demonic strength. I was lucky to be in Udaipur for Holi in 2017 and somehow jiggled a ticket for the Holika Dahan Ceremony held at The City Palace to witness a magnificent palace procession, observe royal etiquette and ritual while looking upon the royals parade in their traditional attire-finely liveried palace staff, elegantly bedecked horses and the impeccably turned out band that leads the cavalcade through the Palace from the Royal residence to Manek Chowk.
After the ceremonies there was a huge and delicious buffet dinner with open bar. And after the magnificent dessert buffet there was also an extensive paan buffet. I took one from there back to my hotel overlooking the lake and tried it later. It tasted exactly like that cocktail now at Mother India.
Leaving the Mother India Restaurant around 16:30 I walked back to the Shivaji Stadium Metro Station. On the way I did some window shopping and found an ATM to pull more cash. I was going to pick up my new group of tourists tonight and we were going to fly to Assam in a couple days, so I had to be prepared.
At the metro station I made a pit stop at the Wine Shop, of course. Taking the Airport Express line back to Dwarka Sector 21 I was back in the hotel around 17:30, did some cruise preparation, writing, checking photos and then slept for a few hours. I had to pick up the guests at the airport, but the flight was delayed until 02:30. So I did not have to go too early since it usually took hours for them to pass immigration and get the luggage. I went to the airport to be the local agent at 03:00. This time I used the ola app to call a taxi and it turned out cheaper than the uber I used last time. Now I also knew to tell the driver to drop me at departure … they never find arrivals … but I could just take the elevator to arrivals …
The next Brahmaputra adventure was about to start … But that is another story ….
