07.02.2021
Well, I did it! After my Escape to Madeira – which had been sort of a testrun for travel-in-the-new-normality – I was confident, I could travel again. I needed to get out! During Christmas, I had been contemplating where to go and what to do … Actually I wanted to go somewhere I had never been before … I checked with my favourite adventure tour agency for small group tours … Not much was happening, but things were happening … I had a few destinations in my sight, but none was going or they were booked out. What was still open and obviously going was Uganda with Gorilla Tracking. I had been to Uganda on my grand Africa Tour in 2002 and had visited the Gorillas. And every since I had been eyeing another visit – those Gorillas were just too awesome. But always there had been somethingelse coming up … places I had never been before looked more alluring … and the Gorilla permits got more and more expensive every year …
But now Uganda had the Gorilla permits and Chimpanzee permits as well as National Park fees for foreigners on half price until end-March 2021 – Believe it! – they desperately needed tourist business … Still it was almost double what I had paid in 2002, though … But why not … Uganda had not been declared a risk area and I would not have to go into quarantine upon return … I dreamt of Africa …
I watched the booking form for that trip for a while and eventually decided mid-January to take the chance. I inquired and 2 days later booked it. I got the last available space of 6 … Yes, it is not cheap and yes, I booked an hellishly expensive all-in travel insurance that would even pay if I tested positive the day before departure and during the trip.
And no, I have not told anybody except my close family and a few friends – I even swore my Mom to secrecy towards the neighbours. I did not believe I was actually going until I sat in that airplane … Since Germany was in lockdown I was worried about maybe not getting to the airport at all – but I was assured, that a ride to the airport was considered essential travel … I sure hoped so! I did book a train ticket with the tour, but I also made a reservation for a rental car … just in case …
I have had a discussion with a friend recently, when the Berlin Airport Tegel was closed and only the new Berlin-Brandenburg Airport was now available, that she had now a 45 min ride to the airport and that was unacceptable. While before it had been a quick 20 min hop to Tegel. I could not understand it – the closest airport to my hometown was a good 45 min in Dresden. Berlin-Brandenburg would now be another option, because it was much much closer to me than Tegel had been … But usually I had to go to Frankfurt anyway … Especially in the new normailty of less flight departures … I was not even sure if Dresden Airport was even open … Going to Frankfurt involved a 6 hrs train ride and an overnight in Frankfurt. Or a 5-7 hrs drive in a rental car depending on the traffic … Now, for my tour I had to go to Frankfurt again – luckily the flight was scheduled in the evening and I had all day to get there. Even by train it would be no problem …
Well, I had been watching not only the Foreign Ministry’s recommendations and the current developments considering SARS-CoV-2, but also the weather forecast … Since there were not so many flights at the moment, the weather forecast is often not as accurate anymore as it used to be … planes used to collect weather date … As my travel date neared – the situation everywhere did not change – all was good, the tour would be going in anycase … it was a guaranteed departure.
Early morning Friday I drove once more to Dresden and had my sister stick that cotton swap in my throat for the C-Test. It seems a negative C-Test is the new visa for travelling … Happy I was, when in the evening my mobile pinged and the result arrived – negativ! Not that I had been worried. Mom and me had been holed up in our village since Christmas, basically hibernating …
I was still not sure if I should go to the airport by train – which was cheaper – for only € 30 I had booked and paid a Rail & Fly ticket already – or if I should go by car – which was of course more expensive at € 108 for the car plus gasoline … I always tended to the car, because with lockdown and all … what if somebody checked in the train and would not let me continue because I was more than 15 km from home? Chances to be stopped on the Autobahn were probably slimmer … I left the decision to the very last minute … and then the weather took it from me …
For days the forecasters were predicting the worst snow storm of a decade for the middle of Germany … warm air masses were coming from the South and cold air masses were coming from the North and – what can I tell you? – Exactly where I had to drive through they would meet and create a chaos … and this was predicted for Saturday and Sunday … exactly when I had to go … Whaaaat??!! … But it could not be helped – I wanted and I had to go!
We picked up the rental car Saturday 11:00, because that was when the rental car station closed for the weekend – which also meant Ihad to pay 2 days car rental instead of only 24 hrs … I checked if the car had winter tires … yes it had … the guy at the europcar station remembered me from a couple of months ago when I went to Madeira and rented a car as well to go to the airport. For a minute I contemplated if I should leave Saturday afternoon … but there was no point. The worst weather was supposed to come Saturday night, all hotels and restaurants were closed in lockdown and my flight was Sunday evening … no option that was then …
Under normal circumstances I would have left home around 11:00 Sunday morning with a 7 hrs plan for 535 km … With this weather forecast however … I decided to not take a chance. Even if I had to drive at 50 km/h for the entire time I had to make it! So the decision was made Saturday evening – I would leave at 08:00 Sunday morning. That would give me a solid 11 hrs …
This morning … did I have any second thoughts about driving? Maybe … but my doubts were dispelled with one look at the DB train app … it showed all trains cancelled in my direction. On the radio news I heard later that Leipzig train station was closed due to the snow, all long distance trains cancelled … Lucky me I had decided to brave the elements and taken that car! Otherwise I could have waved my vacation good-bye …
There was just a sprinkle of snow at home Saturday evening and the news only reported predictions … nothing was happening yet … When I woke up this Sunday morning at 06:45 there was a sheet of snow on the cars, but it was nothing of the 50 cm they had predicted for the middle of Germany … it was merely 7 cm … same as we had a couple of weeks ago … But it was Sunday … maybe the winter road crews where not getting up as early as during the week … eventhough they had obviously been on high alert since the news were playing it up big …
I went out to shovel the cars and driveway free at 07:45. The snow was sort of yellow. I had heard that from the South Sahara sand was being blown in and a friend from Burgundy had yesterday sent me a photo with the sky all yellow over there …
Now, our snow had definitely a yellow tinge. Lucky, it was -7°C and the snow was absolutely dry. So I had no problems clearing it. At 08:05 I waved Mom good-bye and was off … prepared for everything that might happen …
Indeed the road service had not really been out this early on a Sunday … the first 35 km were country roads and I crept along clutching the steering. It was not slippery. It was just a lot of snow on the road. There was very little traffic … the news had been going on about staying home because of the weather for 2 days now … in addition of saying to stay home because of lockdown … It was getting on my nerves … With a steady 50 km/h I drove along in th middle of the road without problems. It was no comparison with my snow-chasing-adventure on Madeira a couple of months ago … winter tires were the key …
Reaching the Autobahn A 4 I was confident the road conditions would improve. Traffic service on the radio had not announced any traffic jams in my direction. And indeed, the Autobahn was somewhat clearer and better to drive than the country road. Sundays there is no truck traffic, but still plenty cars were en route. The traffic flowed with a steady 80 km/h past Dresden … I was moving good.
However, I had been watching the weather radar and forecast for Thuringia and also google maps kept telling me over there around Erfurt and Eisenach the Autobahn was clogged – a 100 km stretch showed up as traffic jam red. But last night I had already checked alternative routes and now my decision manifested … I would turn off either in Chemnitz for the A 72 or in Hermsdorf for the A 9 and go South to detour the middle of Germany. The A 72 was always tricky as it also moved over the Erzgebirge mountains, but so far no reports had come in concerning this stretch.
Past Dresden the traffic slowed … but only because the winter road service was ahead. For maybe half an hour I drove behind it at a slow 40 km/h but with perfectly cleared road. Then they moved over and let the convoy pass … ahead the road was clear …
The closer I came to Chemnitz the surer I was, that I was turning South on the A 72. This was a notoriously bad stretch of Autobahn when it came to weather, so usually I would avoid it. But the weather radar showed clear skies over there … and what can I tell you? … the further South I came and the higher the road rose in altitude … the less snow there was … The road was clear and dry and the very little traffic moved fast. Coming past Hof in Bavaria there was no snow at all anymore … Following the A 9, A 73 and A3 to Frankfurt practically below the snow front in Thuringia I was moving at a steady 140 km/h. This was all my little car was doing. As usual I had taken the cheapest available rental option … Later I learnt that the snow chaos hit Thuringia and Saxony big later that Sunday and the following days … I had been lucky …
Only around Frankfurt is started to rain … I stopped once to fuel up the car maybe 40 km before reaching the airport. At 13:45 I drove into the rental drop off area at the airport. It had been only an approx 30 km detour taking the Southern route. 563 km were on the clock – usually it was some 535 km … The girl that took the car claimed there was a scratch on the front right wheel cover … she put it in the report … I am pretty sure it was only dirt from the winter road … then again … I could have checked, but I could not be bothered. I would see what comes of it … and I can report … nothing … they only charged me for the gasoline to complete the tank again.
Coming into the airport, I was way too early … but definitely better than too late! The airport was as busy – or not busy – as the last time I had been here 2 months ago. I think, the few flights that were going were all going from Terminal 1 with Terminal 2 probably closed. There were relatively few, because already now I could see my flight at 21:35 on the display. In regular times there would be a plane every couple of minutes and a flight would not make it to the display 7 hrs before departure …
I found a seat in Hall B near the snack bar and settled in writing my journal and using up my provisions. Considering the circumstances the airport was busy … I mean … it was lockdown, but people travelled for whatever reasons. And it is not only foreigners in transit … The difference from last time was that medicinial or FFP2 masks were mandatory – while before a simple facemask had been sufficient.
Around 18:00 I went to see where would be check-in. It was right there and it open already. Oh good! I prepared my backpack and lined up. Not that there really was a line up … yet … I overheard one of the ground personnel saying it would be 108 passengers on the plane – but considering it being a big A 350 plane, that was not much. While waiting I tried the web-check-in again. I had tried several times yesterday, but the website had never recognized my booking … today it worked without problems. Most window seats were occupied, but it was a night flight anyway … and on long-distance flights I prefered aisle seats … I was however hoping for 3 seats to sleep … I was allocated a middle aisle seat towards the front … that suited me fine as long as the 2 seats next to me would stay empty … If not, I would just move. I spotted several people with diamir tags or tickets … some of them were flying to Tanzania I could overhear. I am sure there were as well the people for my tour, but I did not speak to anyone yet. Ethiopian Airlines seemed to be the choice for Africa tours at the moment since no flights were allowed in from South Africa. So most tours flew via Addis Abeba like me.
Once I had dropped off my bag, I found a seat again to finish my last piccolo before security. It was very early anyway. And considering so few people travelling … security check would not have a line up anyway. Sure enough … I breezed through it and once more marveled at the full body scanners! This time I had taken my shoes off and did not even have to go for re-check.
At the one and only open duty free shop I changed some of my miles for a bottle of medicinal Vodka. Gone were the times of crowded shopping and cheap special offers … But my miles were enough, so I did not have to actually pay money.
In the rather limited terminal section that was open it was not really busy. I think everything concentrated in that one section … but it was not much … Only one minimarket was open and one snackbar for take away … WHAT? … Take away in an airport? A paradoxon … you cannot sit at a table near the snack bar, but just move 5 m over to the waiting area and sit there juggling your food and drink on your knees … What difference would it make to sit at a table? … It is an airport … we were all going to pile into an tightly spaced airplane anyway ….
Nothing appealed to me, so I found a corner to hang out and play with the free airport WIFI. Boarding started early and indeed I got lucky and had the 3 seats to myself. The A 350 was moderately filled, but most people had 2 or 3 seats to themselves. Take off was on time, too. I watched a movie and waited for drinks and dinner. I had a wine and the food was good as well. Then I made use of all those empty seats next to me, stretched long and slept. The flight was 6 hrs … I could sleep a few of them.
08.02.2021
We landed on time in Addis Abeba at 06:00 local time – 2 hrs time change ahead from home. Hello Africa!
For as long as I can remember, I have been passionately intrigued by Africa,
by the word itself, by its flora and fauna, its topographical diversity and grandeur;
but above all else, by the sheer variety of the colors of its people, from tan and sepia to jet and ebony.
Henry Louis Gates
And it was raining in Africa! The airport looked considerably busier than Frankfurt … Passing security was no problem. I had more than 4 hrs lay-over.
Sitting there watching the sunrise behind the rain clouds, planes touching down or taking off in short succession, the hussle and bussle of the airport ground staff … if it had not been for everybody wearing facemasks … it felt pleasantly normal. This airport hub in East Africa was busy!
I found a seat with a view … but took a nap for almost 2 hours before I wandered around some more. Most of the shops were open now and a couple of bars as well. I bought some water in a minimarket and then treated myself to an Ethiopian coffee. I remember from my Ethiopia Tour in 2014 that the coffee is so good in Ethiopia and I was not disappointed. All prices at the airport were in US$. Good thing I had so many of those – in very small notes – left from my assignments in India, when I often swapped the guides’ small tip notes into larger notes for them as the myth was holding that larger notes gave a better exchange rate. So I got stuck with a substantial bundle of small notes …
When the boarding time for my flight to Entebbe drew closer I started wandering around. All this sitting around was not so good. I tried to figure out who of the few Westerners waiting by the gate could possibly be of my group. I only knew we would be 6 in total. It was hard to say … In the meantime the sun had come out outside and the weather looked better.
The plane to Entebbe was packed … while at the airport signs reminding everyone constantly to wear a mask and to keep a distance were displayed everywhere and huge and the rules were also enforced by the staff – in the airplane it was a mess. The paradoxon again – at the gate, staff meticulously watched that there was the 1.5 m distance between passengers, but as soon as we entered the airplane it seemed all untenable. It was the same pushing, shoving and hustle as in regular times … at least everybody wore a facemask … I tried not to get into the midst of the crowd but with not much success …
At least I had a window seat and could watch take off. The flight itself was uneventful. It was 2 hr hop and they even served lunch and drinks, which was good.
Landing on time in Entebbe we flew in over Lake Victoria, one of the African Great Lakes. The lake was renamed after Queen Victoria by the explorer John Hanning Speke, the first Briton to document it in his reports. Speke accomplished this in 1858, while on an expedition with Richard Francis Burton to locate the source of the Nile River. With a surface area of approx 59947 km² Lake Victoria is Africa’s largest lake by area, the world’s largest tropical lake and the world’s second-largest fresh water lake by surface area after Lake Superior in North America.
Entebbe International Airport is the principal and only international airport of Uganda. It is located about 6 km southwest of the town of Entebbe, on the northern shores of Lake Victoria, approx 40 km by road south-west of the central business district of Kampala, the capital and largest city of Uganda. In 2015, the Government of South Korea, through the Korea International Cooperation Agency, gave the Government of Uganda a huge grant towards modernization and expansion of the airport to last until 2035. It looked as if this project had been on ice for a while, though.
I tried to let the crowd ahead of my row get out first before I moved out. Fortunately I was at row 13 relatively in the front of the plane and got out without too much hustle. At the first checkpoint some officials checked the C-test result rather cursorily – Why had I made such an effort to get a paper which stated in English that the test had been done for travel purposes? – nobody actually cared. The only thing they searched was the word negative. What they did check properly was the Yellow Fever vaccination stamp in my vaccination book.
I had not applied for an eVisa registration ahead of arrival. Since in the new normality it was so unpredictable if a tour was going or not – and who knows what the governments decide to throw last minute at us – I did not want to pay the US$ 50 in advance. Pay visa on arrival was absolutely no problem. I just had to show my passport and pay US$55 in cash. It was a matter of 1 min since I was the first in line. With the receipt of that I had to line up at one of the other immigration booths same as the people with the eVisa registration. It did not make a difference. Quickly I had a new Visa Sticker in my passport and was on the way to the luggage carousel.
There it was really busy. The belt was already piled with luggage and boxes. My backpack was nowhere in sight yet. While I waited I looked around – should I change money – no I shall do that later. But I saw a little stall with a guy selling SIM cards … very important to stay connected … I went to ask about a data card. Of course it was no problem. I decided on 10 GB for the 2 weeks I was staying – sounded better than only 3 GB … – for US$ 20 plus US$2 for the SIM card I was on. For all that he even set it up and activated it and beamed me another VPN app over so I could use social media. Because of the elections a few weeks ago, all social media like whatsapp and facebook etc. were blocked in the country – imagine that being done in Europe … I remember this problem from Tibet and China on my train adventure in 2018. I actually had a VPN app already, but another one could not hurt. The guy made much fun of my 2 mobiles – one was SIM locked, so I had as usual the 2nd one for the foreign card – and cracked screens on both … Hey, a mobile is a comodity … I use it … I do not pack it in cotton wool …
Well, while he was busy doing this I looked with one eye for my bag and when I spotted it quickly ran over to grab it. The activation of the SIM and data took maybe 15 min in total and while I waited a woman came over to talk to me – it turned out she was one of my group – Ms Ping. But she did not wait with me, she went out to the meeting point instead … tell them to wait for me!
Then the relieving ping sounded … finally I was online again! Quickly I grabbed my various bags and made my way out – all other Westerners had left already – I was last again … Eventhough I passed the green channel at customs, all bags had to be x-rayed. And that lady made me unpack my camera bag … completely … because she thought she had seen a drone in it … I wish I had one … but no, I do not!
All the other 5 of my group were already waiting for me. It turned out to be all single rooms – no couples, which was good. All were German as well. Matovu – our guide – waited as well and we walked to the car.
It was hot in Uganda! Instantly I started sweating. Matovu piled our bags in the car in true tetris manner – my backpack did not fit today and had to travel in the frontseat for the short ride to Entebbe Airport Guesthouse. We chatted away the entire time. It seemed the group hit it off quite well. It shall become a nice tour. In the new normality and current uncertain circumstances not just everybody is travelling … only the toughest of die-hard travelers are braving the world at the moment … and we were not even the toughest … we booked a secure group tour … fortunately we were all likeminded and that was a great plus for this tour.
Stopping at an exchange office, we all changed money. For US$ 200 I got UGX Ugandan Shilling 600000. I think it was not a very good rate … I should have gotten UGX 660000 … but later I realized that here the myth of small notes and low rates is true … I had given US$ 20 notes and those apparently count as small notes and give a lesser exchange rate … What? … oh well …
Then it was just a couple of blocks to Entebbe Airport Guesthouse which was located in a quiet neighbourhood. Entebbe was once the seat of government for the Protectorate of Uganda in the colonial era prior to independence in 1962 and is still the location of State House, the official office and residence of the President of Uganda. It is of major logistical significance and yet it is remarkably unfocused and green. But business is booming – much of it centered around a service industry catering to a steady influx of UN personnel, tourists and newly arrived air passengers. Most stay at one of the over 100 pricey hotels and guesthouses – better value for money could be found in Kampala. But all financial savings made by heading to Kampala would be sure offset by the tedium of sitting in the capital’s appalling traffic …
Before check-in we had to go through the new normality procedures – mask on, hand disinfection and our temperature was taken. While filling in the paperwork and ordering dinner I had my first Nile beer! I was thirsty! My room was #5 and all of the spacious rooms were facing the well-kept garden.
Many flowers were blooming in the garden and I had to take some photos first. There were impressive Heliconia Rostrata – also known as Hanging Lobster Claw or False Bird of Paradise – with downward-facing flowers, the flowers thus providing a source of nectar to birds and often grown as a host flower especially to hummingbirds.
Stunning Etlingera Elatior – commonly known as Torch Ginger, Red Ginger Lily, Torch Lily or Porcelain Rose – were blooming aplenty in the border of the driveway. The showy pink flowers are used in decorative arrangements, but are an important food ingredient across Southeast Asia. In North Sumatra the flower buds are used for a stewed fish dish called Arsik Ikan Mas. In Bali, people use the white part of the bottom part of the trunk for cooking chilli sauce called Sambal Bongko. In Thailand, it is eaten in a kind of Thai salad preparation. I did not think here in Africa they use it for food, though … But what would I know …
The group met a few minutes after settling in and we sat in the garden to talk about the tour. It will be mostly safaris, but hopefully we would also see some villages and people …
Matovu left us for the night and while the others settled in, I went for a walk in search of a supermarket. I always have to look at supermarkets … The gate guard told me to go right – left – right – to the end – cross the road – supermarket on your right. Sure enough, I found it without problem. The streets in the neighbourhood were quiet, but some people were around. The mainstreet was busy though. The supermarket was well stocked and I bought some juice and checked out the alcohol section. On the last day we would stay in the same guesthouse again and I could then buy some local gin to take home as souvenir!
Back at the guesthouse it was almost time for dinner. The table was set in the garden. I had ordered fish and salad and it was actually very good. The salad came with avocados and the fish was apparently Nile Tilapia or Nile Perch from Lake Victoria. Of course, I heard from the others – How can you have salad here! – Well, why should I not? I have an iron stomach anyway … and I love salad.
Dinner tonight was not included, so we all paid our bills afterwards. Since we had only big notes and they had no change either, I took another beer for tomorrow. Then I sat for a bit with HD outside and we chatted. But by 20:00 I was already getting tired. After a quick shower, I was in bed and could hardly keep my eyes open to post some photos. Lucky I had my own Data … there was no WIFI in the guesthouse … By 20:30 I was fast asleep.
09.02.2021
ca. 362 km Entebbe Airport Guesthouse – Murchison River Lodge
I slept well all night and woke up this morning around 06:00 and it was still dark. Nevertheless, I pulled the laptop out and did some journal writing. Then I packed up – as usually some repacking was necessary after flying before hitting the road.
Breakfast was set for 07:00 and I wandered over to the restaurant. We were the only guests here. Fruits, juice, tea, coffee, cereals, toast were set on the table, eggs were made to order. As usual in Africa and Asia the best bet was cheese omelet.
I left the group early since I normally do not eat breakfast anyway. On my porch I sat to do some more journal writing until we had to depart at 08:00. I had the driveway in view, so it was no problem. My big backpack was picked up just before 08:00 and so I grabbed the rest of my bags – camera backpack, handbag and a bag with water and juices – and meandered over to the car taking photos of flowers in the garden on the way.
Anthurium Andraeanum – commonly known as Flamingo Flower, Tail Flower or Painter’s Palette – were beautifully displayed in the flower borders. Its name comes from the Greek words anthos – meaning flower – and oura – meaning a tail.
After a short briefing with a look on the map departure was at 08:10. Matovu had actually been able to squeeze my backpack in the trunk as well – Tetris par excellence – so one of us could ride shotgun in the front. Our vehicle was a Toyota Landcruiser 4×4 Safari edition with 7 seats. It was very comfortable and equipped with charger sockets and even a small fridge. That I made use of immediately and put the beer, I had extra from last night, in.
We all aggreed to not wear facemasks in the car … what was the point? We had all tested negative before leaving Germany and had sat in the same airplanes on the way over. We would be sharing this car for the next 12 days and we would pretty much do everything together. It was a relief everybody had the same opinion.
We took the M3 Entebbe-Kampala-Expressway towards the capital and passed Lake Victoria. Of course I was determined to find a geocache or 2 in Uganda as well. There was an Earth Cache marker right next to the highway by the lake. The answers I would be able to find somehow … but I needed a photo … I tried it, but just in that moment Dr D’s nose was in the way … Oh well … we will pass here again on the way back …
The expressway was brand new – it is the first toll road in Uganda and provides an alternative to the free existing surface road known as the Kampala-Entebbe Road, which is narrow, congested and not sufficient to handle the heavy traffic traversing it. The expressway was commissioned in 2018. It is gated and in the future vehicles that access it will be paying a toll charge … but not yet, though.
There was little traffic on this stretch, but the views along to the west were ever changing and totaly interesting. The light – especially this early in the morning – was wonderful. The typical red soil – also used to built houses in the villages – contrasting with the lush green of the Banana plantations was just incredible. This combination of rich red soil and abundant water supply makes Uganda one of the most fertile countries in the region. It is no accident that the produce here is regarded some of the best in East Africa.
We bypassed Kampala completely via the Northern Bypass, but traffic increased by the minute. Kampala is the capital and largest city of Uganda, is extending over numerous rolling hills and swamps at the head of Lake Victoria’s Murchison Bay and is the economic and social hub of the country. The city proper is estimated to have a population of 1.65 mio people and is divided into 5 boroughs. Kampala’s metropolitan area has a rapidly growing population that is estimated at 6.7 mio people and is reported to be among the fastest-growing cities in Africa. Traffic was a bitch even on the bypass road … But while we sat in the stop-and-go traffic jam I could take plenty photos along the way.
The Republic of Uganda is a landlocked country in East-Central Africa and has a population of approx 43 mio. It is bordered to the east by Kenya, to the north by South Sudan, to the west by the Democratic Republic of the Congo, to the south-west by Rwanda and to the south by Tanzania. The southern part of the country includes a substantial portion of Lake Victoria, shared with Kenya and Tanzania. Uganda is in the African Great Lakes region and also lies within the Nile basin. Uganda is named after the Buganda kingdom, which encompasses a large portion of the south of the country, including the capital Kampala. Beginning in 1894, the area was ruled as a protectorate by the UK, which established administrative law across the territory. Uganda gained independence from the UK in 1962. The official languages are English and Swahili, although “any other language may be used as a medium of instruction in schools or other educational institutions or for legislative, administrative or judicial purposes as may be prescribed by law.”
The area that later become known as Kampala was historically part of the highly centralized Buganda Kingdom. In 1890, Frederick Lugard, an agent of the Imperial British East Africa Company, arrived in Buganda and signed a treaty of protection by the British government over Buganda. Captain Lugard would, later on, be allocated the stumpy hill that would soon be known as Old Kampala, and on which he built a first fort. The name Kampala derives from the Luganda expression Kosozi Kampala – Hill of the Antelope. The Ganda language or Luganda is a Bantu language spoken in the African Great Lakes region. It is one of the major languages in Uganda, spoken by more than 8 mio Baganda and other people principally in central Uganda, including the capital.
When I was here in 2002 it was not yet as busy. I remember staying in the one and only Backpackers Hostel just outside the city center and walking around. Back then I did not take as many photos as now … Slide film had been expensive and I had to carry it … But reading my travel journal from that trip – which I had written in pencil – I had a lot of adventures in Uganda!
Street markets lined the road on both sides. Sold was everything from handmade brooms, vegetables to mattresses and household items. And the markets were busy … Only very few people seemed to observe social distancing and even less wore a facemask … It looked pleasantly normal on the streets here … It felt a bit like a blast from our past … Officially masks were mandatory in public space, though … public busses were only allowed to carry 50% passenger capacity and private cars could take max 4 people … Nobody seemed to actually care, however … Let’s just not think about it … without being blasted with bad news by the media constantly, life is much more relaxed!
Traffic was really thick around the city – and we were only in the outskirts … It took us a long time to get all the way to the North of Kampala. But I did not mind … I could take photos of people all the time … and they were friendly and smiled or waved at us.
At the very North of the city we turned off onto the Gulu-Kampala Road connecting the capital city with the city of Gulu, the largest urban centre in the Northern Region of the country. The road is old – it was first constructed in the 1940s. There were many fruit & vegetable stall along the road. They were selling whatever was growing seasonal in that particular area. We stopped at one of those small markets and as soon as the car came to a halt, sellers were crowding the front windows.
We got off to stretch our legs a bit. The car was comfortable, but it was a long way and this was not the German Autobahn. So a bit of walking around and looking at the market stalls was a welcome break – of course whenever we came into close contact with the locals, we wore our facemasks.
Matovu bought some bananas and pineapple for us, as well. After that the road was leading in a pretty much straight line to the north. It was a good asphalt road with very little traffic. The landscape changed, the banana plantations slowly disappeared and it became more savannah dry. The drive was rather uneventful from there on and I have to admit … I fell asleep … I just could not hold my eyes open … It is like that …
I woke up when we stopped at a gas station so Matovu could fill up the car. Of course it also was the obligatory stop for the facilities … very important … in the meantime I bought some Guava juice to flavour the water with. I hate drinking plain water, but in this heat it was necessary. So a little flavour helped a lot. I did buy Mango juice yesterday, but I love Guava as well.
For lunch we stopped at the famous Kabalega Diner. Shortly before arriving there, we passed the turn off for Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. Our program actually included a guided walk to see the Rhinos there. I had been seriously looking forward to this. After having visited Kaziranga National Park in Assam India so many times and observing the One-Horned Rhinos over there, I was ready to see the Africa variety. And … it would give us the chance to tick off the Big 5 – Lion, Leopard, Rhino, Elephant and Cape Buffalo – during this tour … Here was the only chance to see Rhinos …
The Rhino species of Black and White Rhinoceros had been once indigenous in Uganda – the Eastern Black – Diceros Bicornis Michaeli – in the North and Northwest and the Northern White – Ceratotherium Simum Cottoni – in the Northwest on the west bank of the River Nile. However, due to prolonged armed human conflicts, poaching and the mismanagement of their natural habitat, by 1982 both species had been wiped out in the country. The private and non-profit Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary was established in 2005 to reintroduce the Southern White Rhinoceros to Uganda. The long-term goal of the sanctuary is to build a sustainable Rhinoceros population and relocate Rhinos back to their original habitat in Uganda’s protected areas. As of January 2010, Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary is the only location in Uganda, where Rhinos can be observed in their natural habitat. Starting with a total of 6 animals – 4 that were bought from Solio Ranch in Kenya and 2 had been donated from Disney’s Animal Kingdom in Orlando/Florida, the Rhino population has grown to some 22 animals whose every move is monitored by a team of 40 rangers.
Unfortunately, for some reason or another the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary was closed. That was a huge disappointment for all of us. As we passed the turn off, Matovu just mentioned it casually and out of the corner of my eyes I noticed some colourfully painted Rhino statues … Did we not at least stop to take a photo? … what a shame …
Maybe a kilometer further on we turned into the parking lot of Kabalega Diner which is touted as the best roadside eatery in Uganda. Its location is arguably the perfect spot on the way to Murchison Falls National Park. Before entering we had to sign in, get our temperatures taken and wash our hands with disinfectant.
We found a shaded table under the trees in the garden. Our meals were from now on included – that had probably to do with the touristic remoteness of the region – but here we could order à la carte. I was delighted – I chose Goat Mchomo. It was grilled meat with vegetables and sauce and came with Ugandan Chapati. Meat of the domestic Goat is often called by the French-derived word Chevon from Chèvre or Mutton – the English for Sheep meat. Some of my fellow travelers were appalled about me eating Goat. But I like it! I am used to it. When I am on assignment in India and Mutton Curry is served … it is usually Goat … Everybody eats it as Mutton … but if you call it Goat … they are all shocked … My food today was excellent! Very delicious!
Once I finished it up, I went for a stroll through the garden. What can I tell you … a secret box was hidden here! It was a straight forward listing with clear hints and spoilers … I found the tree in which it was supposed to be … walking around it a few times inspecting every crack and poking with a stick in every hole … nothing … Oh well … nobody had logged this one since last July … who knows if it is even still there … I gave up and did a photolog … I was here!
While I had been searching, Dr. D – an avid photographer after my liking – had spotted a male African Rainbow Lizard – Agama Agama Africana – in a tree next to our table. This common Agama can be found in most of sub-Saharan Africa. Its size varies from 13 to 30 cm in total length. Breeding males have brilliant orange heads, an indigo blue or black body and legs and a tail that is bluish white at the base and has an orange middle segment and black tail tip. Females and juveniles have yellow or earthen tones on their backs with some barring. These active, agile and wary lizards often bask facing the sun – and sun-warmed lizards are more brightly colored than cooler ones.
After lunch I begged Matovu to detour back to the entrance of Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary to at least take a photo of the colourful Rhino statues. He was not convinced easily and the others somewhat rolled their eyes, but I was persistent … it was only a kilometer backtracking … Common guys! If we cannot see Rhinos for real, then at least let’s take a photo of the statues!
Reaching the spot Matovu circled around and I hopped out of the car to pose for an obligatory selfie. The statues marking the turn off to the sanctuary had been expertly painted in bright colours. They were beautiful. Infected by my enthusiasm the others got off the car too and it ended in a regular photo session with Matovu being the paparazzi. The Rhinos looked cool!
In no time we were back on the road, though. It was only a few kilometer until we crossed the River Kafu – which empties into the Victoria Nile and also marks the border between the Central Region and Western Region of Uganda. There we turned onto the Kampala-Masindi-Road following it west to Masindi. The district capital was visited by Samuel and Florence Baker – British explorers and anti-slavery campaigners – in 1872 and 1873. The town was developed as a commercial centre due to trade in cotton during the second half of the 19th century. For a bit we followed the Bobi-Massindi-Road northeast from there, but soon turned off towards Murchison Falls National Park straight north.
The road turned into a dirt track and soon we reached Kichubanyobo Gate of Murchison Falls National Park. Flanking the 100 km stretch of the Victoria Nile that arcs west from Karuma Bridge towards Lake Albert, the 3840 km² National Park is the largest protected area in Uganda. The explorers John Speke and James Grant were the first Europeans to visit the present day MFCA in 1862. Between 1907 and 1912, the inhabitants of an area of approx 13000 km² were evacuated due to a sleeping sickness epidemic spread by Tse-Tse flies. In 1910, the first Bunyoro Game Reserve was created south of the River Nile and in 1952, the British administration established the National Parks Act of Uganda – subsequently Murchison Falls National Park was created.
At the gate we had our first wildlife encounters … a large troop of Olive Baboons was hanging around by the roadside. We were so excited! Stop! Stop! Photo! … We had not even passed the gate yet and we were already hanging out the windows clicking away like crazy!
The Olive Baboon – Papio Anubis – also called the Anubis Baboon – is an Old World monkey. The species is the most wide-ranging of all Baboons, being found in 25 countries throughout Africa, extending from Mali eastward to Ethiopia and Tanzania. It inhabits savannahs, steppes and forests. The common name is derived from its coat colour which is a shade of green-grey at a distance.
Matovu had to sign us in at the gate and we had to go through the already familiar procedure – masks on, wash hands, temperature check … There was a little souvenir shop and I went in to buy some postcards. The selection was not great, but I found some nice ones and bought many. Bud and Ree bought postcards, too. Hopefully Matovu would find us a post office to get stamps and mail them at some point.
While waiting for the paperwork being done we watched the Baboons again – they were playing in the road, drinking from the puddles and grooming eachother. The grooming activity is a key way of forming bonds among individuals as well as keeping them clean and free of external parasites. This is one of their most important forms of socializing – grooming strengthens the bond between allies that might assist when there are disputes over food.
Dr. D and I were however more intrigued by the many beautiful butterflies around here. We were chasing them around, hoping they would sit for a nice photo. There are about 90 recorded species of Papilionidae in the continent of Africa. It reminded me of my visit to Ghana in 2018 when I encountered numerouse beautiful butterflies hiking to Wli Falls. There I saw so many different ones, that I could not even identify them.
Here we spotted Graphium Leonidas – the Veined Swordtail – commonly found in in all forested regions of Sub-Saharan Africa. This species breeds in savannah and open woodland but often penetrates rainforests where it can be found in clearings and along wide roads.
A Blue Pansy – Junonia Oenone – a Nymphalid butterfly native to Africa – was dancing around as well. The upper surface of the forewings is black with white markings towards the apex. The upper surface of the hindwings is black with white markings on the outer edge and a characteristic large metallic-blue spot.
The African Queen – Danaus Chrysippus – also known as the Plain Tiger or African Monarch – is a medium-sized butterfly widespread in Asia, Australia and Africa. The plain tiger inhabits a wide variety of habitats, although it is less likely to thrive in jungle-like conditions and is most often found in drier, wide-open areas. Unfortunately it did not do us the favour of opening its’ wings when sitting still … The body is black with many white spots. The wings are orange, the upperside brighter and richer than the underside. The wings are bordered in black and outlined with semicircular white spots.
We saw many more butterflies, but only the Neptis Saclava – the Spotted Sailer native to Madagascar and sub-Saharan Africa – was relaxed enough to sit and have its photo taken. It is known to perch on prominent twigs or leaves and sallies forth to inspect intruders. It is also attracted to fermenting plant matter and wet earth … maybe that was why it was sitting on the red soil of the road neext to a puddle …
Too soon we were called by the others to return to the car … We still had places to go … Murchison Falls were waiting for us! The drive through the park along the Paraa Road was interesting all the way. We had our eyes peeled for anything that might be hiding in the forest lining the dirt track road. The first part seemed to be under construction with some heavy machinery along the way. The saddest thing we spotted there was a Black & White Colobus monkey mourning his dead mate at the road side. Obviously the monkey had been hit by a car or truck. Its mates were still hanging around sitting next to it, but ran and hid in the forest when cars approached.
A little further on we then spotted some more of the Abyssinian Black & White Colobus – Colobus Quereza – also known as Mantled Guereza, Eastern Black & White Colobus or simply Black & White Colobus – also a type of Old World monkey. It is native to much of west central and east Africa. It has a distinctive appearance – the long white fringes of hair that run along each side of its black trunk are known as a mantle. Its face is framed with white hair and it has a large white tail tuft. The Mantled Guereza is found in both deciduous and evergreen forests. It is an adaptable species that can cope with habitat disturbance and prefers secondary forest close to rivers or lakes. This time we could not get the cameras out as fast as they had disappeared into the green again … but we saw them!
A road branched off leading north and eventually we reached the parking lot at the end of the road at Murchison Falls. It was only a very short walk until we could hear the roar of the water and reached the river above the mighty falls. The viewpoints were on the south bank of the river.
Murchison Falls is a waterfall between Lake Kyoga and Lake Albert on the Victoria Nile. At the top of the falls, the Nile forces its way through a gap in the rocks only 7 m wide and then tumbles 43 m before flowing westward into Lake Albert. The outlet of Lake Victoria sends on average approx 300 m³/s of water over the falls, squeezing it into the narrow gorge. That is at normal water levels when it is already considered one of the world’s most powerful flows of natural water. But at the moment the river volume was much increased … it was overwhelmingly compelling …
Some historians suggest that in 61 AD Roman legionaries reached the falls, but there is a major controversy about this very difficult achievement. Samuel & Florence Baker were the first Europeans who definitely sighted them. Baker named them after the geologist Roderick Murchison – the President of the Royal Geographical Society. The falls lend their name to the surrounding Murchison Falls National Park.
The viewpoint next to the falls was fenced, but standing there gave us a true sense of the mightiness and power of water. Later a local told us that the river is carrying more water at the moment than ever before since the great floods of 1962. Substantial unusual rainfall had hit the region last year and the wet season was only about to start … climate change is real in Africa … changing precipitation patterns and more extreme weather are threatening.
By the way … Ernest Hemingway crashed a plane just downriver from Murchison Falls in 1954. And in August 2019, Uganda rejected a hydropower project by South Africa’s Bonang Power and Energy in order to preserve the Falls, one of the country’s most lucrative tourism sites. It would have been a shame …
Of course, there was a geocache hidden at the upper viewpoint and I needed to find it. It was not far, but it was muddy and slippery and the spray from the falls was strong. I looked around the location and stuck my hand behind tree trunks and into bushes, but there sure was nothing … oh my … I did do a photolog … I was here … probably the Baboons had stolen the container …
Despite the spray, up on the viewpoint the vistas over the Murchison Falls was spectacular. The late afternoon light was great and there was a beautiful rainbow stretching over the falls below. The photos do not really do it justice … the lens was constantly covered in water drops completely … and I was wet as a poodle in no time …
Actually we had been supposed to take a walk to another viewpoint to the base of the falls. Unfortunately due to the increased water level, this path was closed as well as the one leading up to the ridge above, overlooking Murchison Falls as well as the broader Uhuru Falls 100 meters or so to the north. Well, it was not meant to be … I was happy with the view from here which was just magnificent. And the roaring of the water was just outstanding!
When we came back down to the viewpoint next to the falls, Matovu had prepared fresh pineapple – the one he had bought this morning from the streetstall – for us. It was a welcome refreshment. But I was so excited, I kept walking away to take more photos. I tested the new GoPro Hero 9 … either I am stupid or it was just not holding up to its name … I shall do some more testing … I was just not convinced yet …
Then I pulled out my selfie stick … Yes! I had brought it with me! It is an essential tool! … This place called for a group photo! We all lined up for the first of many and it turned out great … only Bud pointed out – very correctly I might add! – that the background was crap …
OK guys, all line up again please! Again! Come on! … Let’s do it again! This time I could get the falls in the background. We all looked a bit like wet poodles … At least I did …
After this wonderful visit we all piled back into the car and Matovu drove us some 40 min to Murchison River Lodge. It was so hot here! Luckily I remembered my Nile Special in the fridge! Guess what I did! … Yes! … Matovu said it was OK and opened it for me … I drank it en route … It literally sizzled down my throat!
On the way we met an Oribi – Ourebia Ourebi – running across the road. It is a small antelope found in eastern, southern and western Africa. The sole member of its genus, it was first described by the German zoologist Eberhard August Wilhelm von Zimmermann in 1783. The Oribi only reaches approx 50-60 cm shoulder height. Typically diurnal, the Oribi is active mainly during the day. We were truly excited spotting it … the first antelope of our tour!
Driving out of Mubako Gate passing the staff quarters of the UWA – Ugandan Wildlife Authority – we reached Murchison River Lodge around 17:30. Procedures were as usual – at the gate the guard took our temperatures, at the parking lot we had to wash our hands, got a quick briefing and the keys for our accommodation. Today we had actually tented huts … I loved it! It had a fixed roof, a proper bed and a proper bathroom, but it was actually like sleeping in a tent … only not camping … more like glamping …
I really liked the setting of the lodge and since sunset was coming … I am a sucker for sunsets and sundowners … I went straight to the bar. But to my defense I have to say – there was only an USB plug in the hut and I had to charge laptop and camera batteries – that was only possible at the bar … so I had a legit reason to go there … While those charged happily, I happily ordered a double Uganda Waragi Gin & Tonic – YES! They had Tonic! And it was cheap … Grabbing my glass and Tonic bottle it slipped and I spilled half of the Gin … Damn … Hey, just put one more shot of Gin in, would you please! … one shot was only US$ 1 … I took it carefully now and walked over to the sunset viewing platform.
The Murchison River Lodge was set in large wooded grounds around this beautiful thatched restaurant bar with a great view over the Victoria Nile and whatever might be lurking out there. Climbing up the viewing platform I was stunned by the view! And I would not be me, if I could not put my drink into the limelight … What an end to an awesome first travel day in the Pearl of Africa!
When the sun is setting, leave whatever you are doing and watch it.
Mehmet Murat Ildan
