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21.05.2021

130 km Eyrarbakki to the volcano return – My 2nd visit – a night excursion!

Despite the favourable weather forecast I had brought all warm clothes I had. Having charged all camera batteries and cleaned out all SD cards, I was ready for my night excursion to the new volcano. By 19:15 I was in the car heading out. The weather was outstandingly good! I was excited! I should have gone to the beach by the apartment to have a look if I could see the volcano today … but in my excitement I had forgotten. However, when I had left Eyrarbakki and turned onto #34 west, I could already see the smoky plume on the horizon.

I drove quickly and for some reason the road #427 was slightly busier than the other times I drove here. Where all those people going to the volcano? It was the Friday before Pentecost weekend … a long weekend on which Icelanders usually took the opportunity to go and spend it somewhere in the countryside … or so I had been told … The weather was glorious for it, anyway.

Having had actually planned to stop on the way to find a geocache which had involved solving a riddle and I had indeed come up with the correct final coordinates – now I opted on skipping it, though … It would have only been a quick detour down a sidetrack for a few hundred meters … But I was so thrilled about the weather and the view of the volcano ahead … I had to get there as quickly as possible. That geocache would have to wait … the volcano was more important … I kept watching the sun as well … I was worried I might not make it to the top before sunset … It was a 2 hrs hike uphill after all … or maybe that beats decided to stop spitting all of a sudden …

Reaching the entrance to the parking lot, most cars turned in … and as I approached the actual parking field it was BUSY! There were soooooo many cars …. Oh my gosh … I reached there around 20:15 and it was packed! Would I have to park further away from the trail head? … I did what I usually do when reaching a full parking lot – I drove all the way in … closest to the trail head … Most people would get all put off by so many cars and park at the first available spot often far away from where they wanted to go … But people who had parked earlier would have to leave eventually and if nobody went to check at the front to see if there was space available, the parking lot would quite literally move … And I was lucky! There was plenty space closest to the trailhead. I parked basically in the same spot as the day before yesterday.

The well behaved person that I am, I paid the ISK 1000 parking fee online again. The thing was – it was for 24 hrs starting from 00:00 until midnight … What if I stayed later than that … I would have to pay for another day … even if only using a few hours … I decided to take a chance and just paid until midnight … Who knows, maybe I will be back by midnight … who was going to check? … And I could always pay later again … I wondered, how many of those cars parked here had not paid at all …

Quickly I got ready and started the hike at 20:30. There was a real great migration going on tonight … maybe more like a pilgramage … in both directions … up and down … It looked as EVERYBODY had decided to use the beautiful weather and come to see the show tonight! The light was incredible already. Today I also noticed a little grey box near the beginning of the trail head and wondered what that was. It did look like a sensor … Later I found out that it was indeed a thing to count visitors! There is actually a website recording the number of visitors hiking up here! Very interesting – at the Icelandic Tourism Dashboard!

I hiked briskly today … maintaining a steady pace uphill trying to take not too many breaks … It was slightly easier hiking today than the first time I came up. Now I knew what to expect from the trail and I had been on the move for the last days as well. Still huffing and puffing, though … The views were amazing today. I spotted the vehicles of the Icelandic Search & Rescue who are apparently on sight from noon to midnight each day. I had not noticed them the day before yesterday, but today they were here.

Making good time, I was happy that the wind was not as strong today. I kept watching the sun and was seriously hoping I would get up there before it dipped behind the mountains surrounding the lava fields … And then I reached that first viewpoint … I had made it in 45 min today … That first view of the monster was stunning as the first time I stood here. But I was totally astonished … in the last 2 days the lava field in Geldingadalir valley had changed so much! It was now much closer! It was incredible … this difference 2 days made … it had advanced probably a hundred meters or so …

This time I saw many people down there by the edge of the lava and I got all distracted by it … my plan to get as quickly as possible up to the viewpoint was forgotten … I had to get down there … close to the still glowing lava! No question! No thinking about it! I just marched to the edge of the lava tongue …

The other day the rim of the lava I was able to get close to, had been all cooled down and had not been glowing anymore on the outside. But today … it was so different … and people got really close to it … and so did I! … but not too close … and always on guard …

Lava is molten rock – magma – that has been expelled from the interior of the Earth. Magma is generated by the internal heat of the planet and it is erupted as lava at volcanoes or through fractures in the crust – usually at temperatures from 800 to 1200 °C – sources say the lava here at Fagradalsfjall has 1180 °C … when it erupts … so considering that the edge of the lava tongue here is approx 1.5 km away from the main cinder cone it was still glowing red-hot … it was still … very hot!

I walked along the perimeter of the lava tongue … I had not forgotten my main objective of getting up to the viewpoint for sunset … but I was mesmerized by the glowing lava … Here it was cleary ʻAʻā lava – one of 3 basic types of flow lava. ʻAʻā is basaltic lava characterized by a rough or rubbly surface composed of broken lava blocks called clinker. The Hawaiian word was introduced as a technical term in geology by Clarence Dutton. The word originates from Hawaiian where it means stony rough lava, but also to burn or blaze.

The loose, broken and sharp, spiny surface of an ʻaʻā flow makes hiking difficult and slow – once it is cooled enough to actually do so … which would not happen in this place for a very long while yet … The clinkery surface actually covers a massive dense core, which is the most active part of the flow. As pasty lava in the core travels downslope, the clinkers are carried along at the surface. At the leading edge of an ʻaʻā flow, however, these cooled fragments tumble down the steep front and are buried by the advancing flow. And advancing it was … very slowly and seemingly invisible … but every now and again fragments tumbled down … I could not help it … but I had to collect a small piece of already cooled down lava to take home as a souvenir. I had seen a guy the other day who had carried down an actually quite massive piece of at least 40 cm length and 30 cm width … that must have been very heavy, though … my small piece was just the right size … but it was not easy to hold … Mom said when I gave it to her, that it felt sticky … well, it was not … it just had very sharp edges … but imagine … this piece of lava had just been born … a few hours ago it had still be glowing amber … a few days ago it had emerged from the mighty monsters throat … a few weeks ago it had still lived some 20 km down below the surface of the earth in a bubling magma chamber … This was just mindboggling!

Slowly I left the lava tongue here at the Geldingadalir valley behind and hiked up the slope back to the trail. Following the trail around the next hill, I was curious to see how the lava field in the Valley with No Name – Nafnlausi Dalurinn – that is what this valley was called – had developed in the last 2 days.

The artificial dams had been finished – I could only see the western one, though. Also here the lava had advanced big time and was already at the brim of the dam! Believe it! I was wondering how long that dam will last …

There were so many visitors today … Probably twice as many as I had seen on my first visit! At least twice as much! It seemed indeed more like a pilgrimage than a nature hike … The fantastic weather and the Friday before the holiday weekend had drawn real crowds to the volcano. And there were not just tourists … there were many locals as well. And all wanted to get close to the glowing lava!

The lava had come really close to the trail now and I think it actually had overflown parts of it. It was still absolutely liquid and moving and very hot! … It was possible to get close, but only for a short moment … it was VERY hot. The wind was strong here in the valley, though. There did not seemed to be any gases to be concerned of at the moment …

At this point the lava was obviously pāhoehoe – from Hawaiian meaning smooth, unbroken lava – which is basaltic lava that has a smooth, billowy, undulating or ropy surface. These surface features are due to the movement of very fluid lava under a congealing surface crust. The Hawaiian word was introduced as a technical term in geology by Clarence Dutton as well.

A pāhoehoe flow typically advances as a series of small lobes and toes that continually break out from a cooled crust. It also forms lava tubes where the minimal heat loss maintains low viscosity. The surface texture of pāhoehoe flows varies widely, displaying all kinds of bizarre shapes often referred to as lava sculpture.

With increasing distance from the source, pāhoehoe flows may eventually change into ʻaʻā flows in response to heat loss and consequent increase in viscosity. Pāhoehoe lavas typically have a temperature of 1100 to 1200°C. I stuck the mobile on the selfie stick to get a close up video … the holder melted and subsequently broke … probably not surprising … Fortunately, I pulled the mobile back just in time … before it melted, too …

Most lava flows are usually less than 10 km long, but some pāhoehoe flows are more than 50 km long. Some flood basalt flows in the geologic record extended for hundreds of kilometers. The very hot lava flows under a horizontal solidifying crust, which often breaks into individual clods, rises up in ridges of lava or slides apart, leaving behind pillows of lava. While the lava flows are still active, the already solidified lava blanket can be up to 50 cm thick. This can cause lava tubes to form.

In contrast to the viscous ʻaʻā lava, the surface of a pāhoehoe flow is quite smooth, so that it can be easily walked on after it eventually cooled. Alternative names for it are flat lava, clod lava, bead lava or rope lava. The name rope lava has its origin in the external shape of the lava, the surface of which is structured like a knitted pattern. This is caused by the fact that when the lava slowly drains off, a kind of skin is created on its surface, under which the thin liquid lava continues to flow and shifts the skin.

Being extremely fascinated by this breathtaking lava display, I could hardly tear away from it. I was so close – who would have thunk I would ever stand next to a red-hot glowing lava flow! There are more than 1500 active volcanoes in 81 countries in the world. For the hundreds of millions of people who reside near them, they are just a part of daily life – like bad traffic or frequent rain. But for me that was something that left me speechless …

If I wanted to see the sunset, though, I had to get going … up the last steep hill to the viewpoint! I wanted to go quickly, but stopped to take in the awesome view often. The lava had already surrounded 3 sides of the viewpoint hill. I found a map showing the extension of the lava fields and the location of the 2 dams that had been built. The red cross marks the viewpoint.

There was a steady stream for people climbing up and descending … so many had come here today! I put the GoPro on timelapse and put it on the strap of my backpack. Good thing it did not record sound … I was wheezing up this hill … I should be ashamed of myself … but I tried to climb up as quickly as possible. The sun was setting quickly and was close to the mountains already … and the light was outstandingly good at the moment …

The climb was hard … but the orange glow of the smoky cloud hanging above the hill and the distant roar of the monster when it erupted was pushing me on. I had a purpose … I think I said it before … that was giving me power … I wanted to be up there for sunset … And I reached the top at 22:30 … I think, considering the many and long photo stops, I made very good time and I was slightly faster than the first time I came up here! I was rewarded with an absolutely stunning eruption the moment I reached the plateau of the hill! I stopped in awe and had just enough time to pull up the camera to take some photos. And I was not the only one to stop in the spot and enjoy the show …

It was hard to find a suitable spot to sit out of the wind that blew over the top of the hill. There were just so many people up here and I would not want to photo bomb somebodyelse’s shots … or have too many blocking my view … The wind was blowing directly at the side of the hill that faced the volcano … nevertheless I plopped down somewhere and set up the cameras.

The light was just outstandingly beautiful with the setting sun. Everything glowed orange today. Last time during my visit in the middle of the day, the eruptions had seemed all red. But tonight … and it was theoretically night … the orange glow was captivating … Having lugged the tripods up here had been the best decision I had made … I could click photos, take videos and stare in awe at the same time … Standing only a few meters away from the edge of an active lava field is a truly unbelievable experience … until you get showered with pyroclastic particles from lava explosion  and realize that your are only a rock slide away from becoming literally toast …

It was mesmerizing.
I never thought something as simple as molten rock
would get me this excited.
Chris Burkard
National Geographic Photographer

I was so close to the cinder cone that I did not need the long lens … Why had I carried this heavy thing up here? … A zoom was not necessary at all … I could feel the heat every time the beast erupted and lit up its surroundings … The heat was welcome … it was cold sitting up here in the wind … But the change in pressure and light, the warmth, the disbelief of sitting this close to an active volcano spitting out red-hot lava … it was almost too much to process …

Today the ICE-SAR – Slysavarnarfélagið Landsbjörg or the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue  – was definitely on duty as they were from noon to midnight every day. I saw them walking the perimeter of the viewpoint hill with their gasmasks and gasmeters  … which were beeping constantly with high gaslevels further down the slope … they were telling visitors to get up on higher ground all the time. I was just at the safe limit, I think, because they asked people who were lower to move up …  The ICE-SAR member organizations consisted of 99 rescue units, 70 accident prevention and women’s divisions and 50 youth sections. Altogether the association has about 10000 volunteer members and is present in most towns. Although the rescue teams function as a kind of public service, they are not supported or paid for by the government but by donation. Icelanders are immensely proud of their search and rescue squads. The rescue teams are extremely professional and have gained attention internationally for their good work. There were at least 10 or 12 of those volunteers around and I found it amazing that Iceland had come up with such a number of them … considering  Iceland has only approx 365000 citizens in total …

Already during my last visit I had been wondering what some visitors up here kept picking from the ground … today I looked closely … the ground was strewn with glassy looking small rocks … Pyroclastic particles fall from atmospheric eruption plumes and accumulate as layers on the ground and are described as fallout deposits. Some called them volcanic popcorn. Apparently they can land up to 1 km away from the crater … I had already noticed that many of my photos had spots as if the lens had been dirty … which it was not … not entirely anywhy … now I knew what it was …

The external surface of those bits actually was like glaze and was said to have formed when the lava fountain activity was at its strongest. They looked kind of glassy … were very light … pumice like … the hillside was strewn with it … It is said that maybe it is scoria – a highly vesicular, dark-colored volcanic rock that may or may not contain crystals. It is typically dark in color – generally dark brown, black or purplish red – and basaltic or andesitic in composition. Scoria is relatively low in density as a result of its numerous macroscopic ellipsoidal vesicles, but in contrast to pumice, all scoria has a specific gravity greater than 1 and sinks in water … I have yet to test this …  The glazed surface could have been formed by the heated gases that make the lava shoot out the crater into the air and are so hot that they glaze the outside layer of the cooling pieces … or such … I found it fascinating of course and had to collect a handful to take home as souvenir …

Slowly it was getting slightly darker … but not much … sunset was around 23:00 and sunrise already around 04:00 … I had the suspicion, it was not getting really dark at all … but it was sure getting dusky and the orange glow got more intensive … The crater seemed to be bigger today than before and the lava river seemed wider with the glowing lava also flowing to the left now …

Advice from a volcano:
Stay active.
Keep your inner fire burning.
It’s OK to let off steam.
Go with the flow
Be uplifting.
It’s all a matter of time.
Have a blast!
Ilan Shamir

The lava fountaining episodes at the last remaining active vent continued with some differences – compared to some days before – apparently. The style of fountaining was often just pulsating and the lava jets barely reached 150-200 m in height in average – but during my last visit they were still capable to get over 300 m in height during the most energetic episodes. I did notice that they were considerably smaller today and got it confirmed when reading up on the frequent updates online. The pauses between each eruption were oscillating between 6 and 8 min long, with the fountaining phase lasting for 1-3 min.

When the lava eruption started, the gas emission suddenly increased and slowly a thick gas plume formed and rose above the vent. With the right moisture amount and the right air temperature – which obviously prevailed tonight – the gas plume condensated in thick clouds rising above the vent. At the end of the explosive episode, the gas emission dropped considerably. This plume was glowing bright orange in the sky … it was just incredible to watch.

I could not sit anymore … it was too cold … so I stood up and walked around my set up always waiting for the next eruption. I did not want to leave. I was still hoping it would get slightly darker … It was … but not much … I was transfixed by the ominous but beautiful landscape … the discharged lava was flowing into a huge and very long river into the Valley with no Name. In the twilight it was magnificently glowing all along. That river must have been a kilometer or so long.

Volcanoes – They’re one of the most primeval forces of nature that we can observe.
You feel the power of Mother Earth near this lifeblood of the planet.
Benjamin Hayes

The wind suddenly died down for a while and it was actually really pleasant. During the eruptions there had always been a slight warm wave reaching the slope and for a bit it had been warm. Now without the wind this was even more noticeable. The steam, crackle and pop of active volcanoes has an allure all its own, anyway. With the wind gone the sound of the volcano and its eruption was clearly audible. The eruption itself sure sounded like a jet airplane getting ready to take off! … Words do not do justice to the sensory overload I was exposed to here …

Many skylights became visible in the dusk – dozens of ephemeral vents and lava ponds were forming all over the extensive lava fields. Those had not been distinguishable as much during the sunlight of the daytime. But now it was glowing all over. I played around with the camera and tried different setting and angles. The eruptions were so captivating that I kept on taking photos and more photos and more photos … Each eruption lit up the surroundings and the spouts looked different every time … the colours were just fascinating …

Often the pulsating lava fountains produced lava bomb fallout – the powerful beast was flinging blobs of red-hot lava in the air  where they kind of colled and the dropped and spattered across the outside of the crater … cracking open like glowing eggs as they hit the slope. Even after each eruption it was stunning to watch the monster – the inner walls … and sometimes even the outside … of it were glowing with hot lava flowing down and dripping from the crater rim.

According to the latest measurements by the University of Iceland’s Institute of Earth Sciences from 10.05.2021, the lava flow discharge rate increased significantly to approx 13 m³/s. The effusive eruption was now twice as it had been during most of the active period so far. Lava flows continued to fill the surrounding valleys. The formation of lava flows indicates that the eruption shows no signs of ceasing and will not end soon as reported by the Icelandic Met Office. However, there is no clue at this moment if the eruption will continue to increase or how long it might last. Yet, the eruption has entered a phase of being more volatile – likely reflected to changes at the magma chamber at depths of 15-20 km deep down in the Earth.

The lava fountains were the most impressinve … A lava fountain is a volcanic phenomenon in which lava is forcefully but non-explosively ejected from a crater, vent or fissure. The highest lava fountain recorded was during the November 2013 eruption of Mount Etna in Italy, which reached a stable height of around 2500 m for 18 min, briefly peaking at a height of 3400 m. Lava fountains may occur as a series of short pulses or a continuous jet of lava. They are commonly associated with Hawaiian eruptions – a type of volcanic eruption where lava flows from the vent in a relatively gentle, low level eruption. It is so named because it is characteristic of Hawaiian volcanoes. Typically they are effusive eruptions – with basaltic magmas of low viscosity, low content of gases and high temperature at the vent. Very small amounts of volcanic ash are produced. This type of eruption occurs most often at hotspot volcanoes such as on Hawaii’s big island and in Iceland.

“The purpose of a volcano is to die.” She says. “Is this not what you strive for?”
“The purpose of a volcano is to die, my lady.” Says the volcano.
“But as angrily as possbile.”
Patrick Ness – The Crane Wife

On 19.03.2021 an effusive eruption started at approximately 20:45 local time in Geldingadalir – a natural depression whose name means Eunuch Valley, possibly a reference to early settlers’ practice of castrating animals in the region – to the south of Fagradalsfjall … the first known eruption on Reykjanes Peninsula in approx 800 years. Fagradalsfjall has been dormant for 6000 years. Reports stated a 600-700 m long fissure vent began ejecting lava, which covered an area of less than 1 km².

In the beginning of April, a new fissure, variously estimated to be between about 100 and 500 m long, opened a distance of about 1 km to the north/north-east of the still-active vent at the center of the March eruption. Some time later, another 2 eruption fissures appeared parallel to the first on the slopes of Fagradalsfjall and yet another followed a couple days later between the 2 open fissures there. However, by 02.05.2021, only one fissure remained active and the eruption continued through this one main crater only … to this date …

The active crater is the 5th fissure opening that opened in the area in mid-April. Since the end of April, the volcanic activity had been characterized by continuous lava fountains, while the activity changed at the beginning of May and has since been showing pulsating behaviour. While Fagradalsfjall itself was classified as a shield volcano, this eruption had fissure vents – flat, linear fractures through which lava emerged. Experts state it might now be changing into a shield volcano – a type of volcano named for its low profile, resembling a warrior’s shield lying on the ground, formed by the eruption of highly fluid, low viscosity lava which travels further and forms thinner flows than the more viscous lava erupted from a stratovolcano. Repeated eruptions result in the steady accumulation of broad sheets of lava, building up the shield volcano’s distinctive form.

Scientists believe that this modest eruption could mark the beginning of something bigger, though. Evidence from both historical accounts and ancient lava flows showed that whenever this region has experienced a major uptick in seismic activity, intermittent eruptions followed for around 100 years. Reykjanes Peninsula might be reawakening …

However, at the moment, the Geldingadalur eruption provides an unprecedented opportunity to study the long-term volcanic activity of southwest Iceland. Thanks to easy access to the area, researchers are throwing their entire toolbox at the eruption, seeing it as the best chance they have ever had to understand the unusual tectonics and volcanism of the region. Scientists are scrambling to monitor what may be the opening salvo in a series of volcanic volleys, which could provide clues about why the peninsula flares up just once every 8 centuries or so. Historical accounts and layers of ancient volcanic rock suggest that each time this area experienced a significant increase in earthquakes, it culminated in several decades of eruptions, jumping from fissure to fissure all over the peninsula …

It’s a very special thing to get close to an eruption site.
It shakes you to your core.
This is something that’s really, really powerful.
You feel very small and very insignificant.
Evgenia Ilyinskaya
Volcanologist

I just could not get away from this breathtaking spectacle … after each eruption I was like … OK, only one more! Then I leave! … But then it happened and it was so awesome and different again and I was … OK, only one more! A last one! … It was like an addiction … I had moved my vantage point a couple of times already, but I did not have the will power to get going just yet … the view and atmosphere were juist too amazing …

Night had fallen … but not really … It was not really dark … just a little darker than before … It might have been around blue hour … I had adjusted the camera settings to underexpose the photos to bring out the colours more. So it looked quite dark on the photos … but actually it was not.

That thought about the blue hour … It might actually be correct … The blue hour is the period of twilight – in the morning or evening – when the sun is at a significant depth below the horizon and residual, indirect sunlight takes on a predominantly blue shade, which differs from the one visible during most of a clear day. Since the term is colloquial, it lacks an official definition similar to dawn, dusk and the 3 stages of twilight. When the sky is clear, the blue hour can be a colorful spectacle, with the indirect sunlight tinting the sky yellow, orange, red and blue. Blue hour usually lasts about 20-30 min right after sunset and right before sunrise. Only that here there was no night between the blue hour after sunset and the one before sunrise … it all merged into one long blue hour … it was only a month until summer solstice and the longest day of the year …

Since that would definitely be the darkest it would get – dawn was already rising in the eastern sky while the western sky was still somewhat glowing with the sunset – and I was really getting cold now, I decided to pack up and get on the long trek back. I did not get far along the slope before I got distracted by another eruption, though … The viewpoint hill was still filled with a happy crowd. Somebody had a boom box and a bunch of people was dancing, some others were filming a youtube video or such, there were numerous drones in the air – I was wondering if they ever interfered with eachother – and so many photographers had set up their gear … A steady stream of people was coming and going as well … The volcano never sleeps and is 24/7 open for visitors. The Search & Rescue guys had long gone, though … their duty ended at midnight …

I was not the only one having a hard time breaking away from this spectacular view and ambience up here. It was like a big party and every time the mighty monster belched red-hot liquid lava an excited chorus of Awwww and Aahhhhh flared up … It was just indescribable … I could just stand there and enjoy forever …

By 01:30 I was finally heading down the steep trail. While I had brought my head lamp, I did not need it … It was light enough to comfortably walk without having to use it. Going down was easy and fast. But once more I was grateful I had brought the hiking poles. The trail was as busy as it had been earlier … a steady stream of eruption pilgrims was heading along the trail … coming and going … When I heard the low rumble of the beast behind me I turned around for another dazzling view of the orange cloud above spectator hill … even the lava river was glowing and emitting glowing plumes of smoke …

Walking down briskly, I did however stop at the first viewpoint overlooking the lava field in Geldingadalir valley. One more eruption! Just one more! … I did not set up the tripod, though, therefore the photos were a bit blurred … Nevertheless it was an awesome sight … of course … a last dose of eruptions … for somebody slowly becoming a vaolcano junky …

Having not made any more stops, I reached the end of the trail and the road quickly and even from here the orange glow of the plume from the volcano was visible. The glow even gave the surrounding clouds a red tint! … I could not help it, but had to turn around every now and then on the way to the parking lot …

There were much less cars in the car park field than before, but still people arrived and started the hike for sunrise. I was at my car by 02:30 and got on the road without any more delay … well, one last photo of the just erupting monster’s glow through the windshield … even the glowing plume looked different every time I looked … And just the realization that the red glow was neither sunset nor sunrise … it was a volcanic eruption … it made want to hike up there all again and see more of it …

The road #427 was empty this time of the night. Most cars leaving the parking had turned towards Grindavík and Reykjavik. I drove as fast as allowed, had the radio blaring Icelandic pop music and the heater to full power … The wind had been icy up there. Hiking down I had warmed up, but also started sweating … now in the cold car I was chilled to the core … but I was not tired … I was still hyper from this most otherworldly visit to the new volcano. I had spent 3 hrs on top of that viewpoint hill and it had felt like 3 min … It would take days to process all those impressions … and weeks to wade through all those photos and video clips … And I could not stop looking over my left shoulder towards the volcano … and there it was again … the magic orange glow … I stopped by the side of the road to take a last glimpse and some last photos …

I was headed east into the sunrise towards Eyrarbakki and made good time. Reaching my apartment at 03:30, I should have walked the few steps to the shore to see if the volcano was visible tonight … but I plainly forgot … and deeply regret it now … but I was so cold and could not get fast enough into a boiling hot shower! That was good!

All warmed up I treated myself to a small nightcap and cosied up in bed. I only flipped through a few photos before fatigue took over and I fell asleep around 04:00 … but not before setting the alarm for 09:30! I had big plans tomorrow!

 

22.05.2021

My 3rd visit to the volcano!

I woke up long before the alarm … at 07:30 … so I made coffee and settled in bed to sort through the photos from last night and to post some. I had take more than 1000 photos on the big camera alone … plus many with the mobile and the small camera plus video clips with the GoPro and the mobile … I had to beam everything to the external hard disks to clear the SD cards for new adventures once more …

This morning I was just hanging out at the apartment and getting organized with the photos. I did scan booking.com for possible accommodation for the rest of my tour … but still could not make up my mind entirely … I had an idea, though. Good thing, in this new normality and off season everything could be arranged really short notice … I thinkt that is a great advantage of the current situation … n´making really last minute travel decisions, booking everything really short notice … a whole new experience …

For today I had another volcano highlight on the plan! I had scored a spot on one of the Norðurflug Helicopter Tours to see Fagradalsfjall erruption site from above! Believe it! I was so excited!

When following the happenings at the new volcano online, I had come across photos of helicopters flying over the lava and had been intrigued … If I was going to see this volcano, I would do this, too! With my plan taking tangible shape, I had not done too much research on available helicopter tours, but contacted the first and seemingly most popular company flying out of Reykjavik. My inquiry was answered right away and would put me on the waiting list … At that point I had not even booked a flight to Iceland yet … I only had a rough plan … but the helicopter tours to the volcano were booked out solid for weeks in advanced … they said 4-6 weeks waiting list … mainly by locals wanting to see the spectacle on their doorstep. Only a few weeks ago Iceland had opened up for vaccinated visitors and slowly also tourists were booking those tours.

Even before I had finalized booking my flights to Iceland I also confirmed my dates with Norðurflug – I would take any available spot within the 2 weeks of my planned visit and work the rest of my tour around it! Lucky I was indeed that they offered me a seat for this afternoon at 14:00 – I took it immediately! It was 3 weeks ago when I confirmed that … I guess, one seat is easier to come by than 2 or more …

Since the online payment link did not work … I do not know why, because my credit card worked for everything else in Iceland … they agreed to make an exception and I could pay on location before the flight. But I was a bit worried … I had reconfirmed a couple of days ago after my arrival in Iceland went smoothly, though. And they had insured me my seat was reserved for me no matter what. However … the flight was totally weather depending … and the weather in Iceland is very unpredictable … additionally the airspace is controlled by Keflavik Flight Tower that only allows 6 aircraft of any kind at any given time in the airspace and Almannavarnir Ríksins – the Department of Civil Protection and Emergency Management – might have last minute restriction such as closing the eruption site due to gas emissions or such …

I had bugged the sales lady with numerous inquiries and stupid questions which she had answered all patiently … still I been told to watch my mobile this morning for relevant messages. They would contact me if the flight was cancelled … they said showers were expected for this afternoon … I had been watching all Icelandic weather channels and had activated safetravel.is SMS alerts … it looked all good to me … the sun had been out all morning … and a message never came … Yipee!

By 11:30 I was ready to go … I drove to Reykjavik via #34, then #38 and finally reached #1. On the way dark grey clouds appeared … OH NO! … it even started raining … OH NO! … It was the same area where it had been raining the other day … a mountainous region … maybe the clouds collected there and dumped over the hills …

Fortunately, it stopped as I neared Reykjavik and there was blue sky over the city. Thanks to the sales lady at Norðurflug having sent me very idiot proof directions and a GPS location link, I found the office without problems and reached there at 13:00. Still dark rainy clouds hung over the city … I was of course way to early … but I hung out in the car and mulled over my plans for the next days some  more …

At 13:30 I felt it was time to go and check in. They had a comfortable waiting room and once I had paid the ISK 44000 for my flight in cash I had a double espresso … as if I was not hyper enough yet … Usually Norðurflug Helicopter Tours offers a variety of different sightseeing tours to glaciers and waterfalls etc. At the moment it looked as if with the strong interest in the new volcano they had their work cut out for them and were almost exclusively flying to the eruption site. The large TV screen mounted on the wall of the waiting room showed a map of expansion of the lava fields and 3 different webcam angles simultaneously. I think that said it all …

Slowly the other passengers rolled in. There was an American group of 4 and an Icelander – we were 6 in total. Now we had to wait for the helicopter to arrive back from the previous tour. Apparently the company operates 2 helicopters with 5 and 6 passenger seat respectively. So, when the weather and everything else cooperates and they fly continuously … they can give a lot of people the opportunity to see the volcano this way.

Just before 14:00 the helicopter returned – it turned out it was the 6 seater Airbus EC 130 B4 we would be flying in – I recognized that, because I had figured out that their 5 seater helicopter was red! Apparently the EC 130 is one of the most popular air touring helicopters and was actually designed for sightseeing tours in Hawaii. There are 2 passenger seats in the front and 4 in the back – with the back row elevated to see above the front seats … secretly I was hoping for a front seat …

There was not much ground time for helicopter and pilot … as soon as he had offloaded the previous lot, we were ushered out. And sometimes it pays out to travel solo … without hesitation the pilot allocated the front seats to me and the Icelandic man while the group of 4 got the back row … maybe it also helped that I was the only one with a big camera hanging over my shoulder … and not only that … I had the GoPro ready in hand and the small camera in the pocket. The others all had only mobile phones … No sooner as we all were strapped in our seats – 4-way seatbelts! – we already took off … right over Reykjavik University and straight southwest towards Reykjanes Peninsula.

My front seat was phenomenal and the visibility really great. I loved it! Owing up to the circumstances we had to wear our facemasks during the flight which was fine with me. The new normality … I had not have to wear it often since I got off the airplane arriving in Iceland, anyway. Since textile masks were not allowed anymore in Germany and I had gotten fed up with the white FFP2 and blue medical masks, I had bought a bunch of black medical masks instead … they also had pink … but I am not really a pink person …

We flew in a direct line heading for Fagradalsfjall passing over Álftanes Peninsulas which extrudes from the eastern part of Reykjanes and is home to the official residence of the President of Iceland – Bessastaðir. I could spot it sitting there clearly. Bessastaðir was first settled in 1000. It was claimed by the King of Norway in the 13th century and became a Royal stronghold and the dwellings of the King’s highest-ranking officers and officials in Iceland. In the late 18th century the place was changed into a school for a few years, before becoming a farm. In 1941 Bessastaðir was donated to the state as a residence for the Regent and later the President of Iceland.

Over the headphones we could listen in to the pilot’s conversation with air traffic control as well as to his explanations and instructions for us … or talk to each other … which I did not have to, but the others chatted away while we crossed over the highway #41 leading to Keflavik airport and slowly closed in on the eruption site at Geldingaladur. First the 378 m high and distinct looking Keilir – which translates to cone – came into view. It is an extinct volcano just north of the fairly closed mountain range on the south side of Reykjanes Peninsula and stands out so clearly from this due to its advanced position and from the surrounding flat shield volcanoes and lava fields due to its height that it can almost be considered a landmark of the peninsula. It is a palagonite cone that was created by one or more eruptions at the same eruption site under an ice age glacier. The volcano belongs to the still active Krýsuvík volcanic system. At the beginning of 2021, it was suspected that an eruption could occur near Keilir. This eruption, however, happened a little southwest of it near the Fagradalsfjall instead …

It seemed only minutes until we reached the actual eruption site! I was once more overwhelmed by the view. Unfortunately I had only 2 hands … the GoPro on continuous video mode in one hand and the big camera in the other hand clicking away … mostly not even checking the viewfinder … because I was transfixed by the view approaching the cinder cone and did the photos automatically … just point and click …

If I had thought the volcano to be massive when I had hiked to the viewpoint yesterday … from up here it looked … gigantic! It was such a different and absolutely stunning perspective flying close to it! I could actually look inside the jaws of the monster! How breathtaking was that!

The pilot did not circle the vent, but flew a sort-of 8 to give everybody a good view of the crater. It was outstanding. I learnt that the tall structure has started as a so-called spatter cone. As is common with fissure eruptions, the magma below finds a path of least resistance and begins to gush onto the surface. As it does so, the lava spilling out around it begins to cool and solidify, forming a sort of ring. Blobs of lava – that is the spatter – splash onto the ring of rock over time, eventually forming a cone that looks like a full-size volcano … which it was obviously getting close to … now it was already more a cinder cone.

Flying around I had my first view of the lava field in Meradalir valley. There the lava had flown in the beginning, but from the viewpoint it was not rally visible. Then we came over the Valley with No Name – Nafnlausi Dalurinn – and I could actually make out the vast dimensions of the lava field there … it had not looked that huge from the viewpoint below which I also could make out clearly.

Then we reached the end of the Valley with No Name, where the artificial dams that had been hurriedly built in an attempt to prevent the lava from entering the Natthagi valley … and they had been holding out … they were still holding … only that this morning around 10:00 the lava decided to simply jump over the eastern dam … and was now descending the northern headwall of the valley creating a beautiful lava fall. On the bottom of Natthagi valley it then formed a new flow towards the south. It actually was following and covering another hiking path leading from another parking at the road northwards to the eruption area. The front of the lava tongue is now very close to the road #427 – probably less than 2 km away and if the eruption continues at its steady – and apparently gradually increasing – lava output rate it is only a question of time when and where exactly it will cut the road. Small topographic hills and new artificial dams might only be gaining some valuable time, though. For now our pilot took us on a circle for a grand view of the lava fall into Natthagi valley …

The lava had already advanced quite far on the bottom of the valley … It was beautiful and I wished I had been there to see the hot liquid gushing over the dam and making its way down the hill … but it was not meant to be … I had been up there 9 hrs to early last night or up here 4 hrs too late now … It was still flowing strong, though … Maybe … I should come back again … The site was changing so rapidly … maybe I should … For now however I contented myself with the fantastic view from the helicopter over the lava fall and the entire eruption site!

By now the pilot got ready to land … the spot was always selected depending on the wind conditions and of course was as far away from hikers as necessary – today we landed on Stóri Hrútur – a 353 m high hill on the eastern side of the Valley with No Name – Nafnlausi Dalurinn. A helicopter from another company was already there.

There used to be a popular hiking trail leading up here … well … the trail is still there … but why had people wanted to hike up those steep slopes before? I mean, before Fagradalsfjall right opposite erupted and became a real sight? The landscape is beautiful … no doubt about it … but I would never have had the slightest notion to hiking up here just to look at ancient lava fields and dormant volcano cones … Now with this mindboggling event, however … this was an entirely different matter … and just in that moment the volcano started spitting once more …

Now, everybody hiked up that hill over there which has become known as Gónhóll – roughly translating to gaping hill or staring hill – since the eruption began … I had been standing there last night … and now I had decadently flown up to the neighbouring Stóri Hrútur … and damn … it was as breathtaking a view from up here as from over there … Just a different, but not less awesome perspective! I could literally look into the crater!

To the left of the main vent I could clearly see the viewpoint where I had stood last night and many people were up there now as well. In the center the elevated lava river flowing between the Valley with No Name and Meradalir that had been glowing so magnificient last night. To the right of the vent was another hill where one of the webcams was sitting … for a long time now totally surrounded by lava, but still going strong …

Enthralled I watched the spouting episode of the monster … lava fountains are vertical streaks of molten rock forced into the sky by a collection of bubbles below … just like popping the cork on a shaken bottle of champagne … gas bubbles formerly confined by pressure escape into a low-pressure environment and as they rush outside they bring along the champagne … or lava in this case …

The weather was exceptionally good today … there was just a little breeze up here … brilliant sunshine and sparkling blue sky with just a enough clouds to give a nice contrast … the rise and expansion of the gas plume above the vent was a dazzling white today … totally different from the glowing orange last night … But nevertheless gorgeous. And even up here we could hear the rumble of the beast in the distance …

We stayed on top of Stóri Hrútur hill for approx 15 min and saw 2 eruptions during that time. But the 360° view over the peninsula was as captivating as the volcano with the lava fields below us.

Between the eruptions I could make out some of the different vents that had opened and closed since March. The vent just left of the active crater – a tiny speck with some red rock on it – had been the very first opening – affectionately being called Bob by Icelanders … It was so small compared to the monster now that it was really hard to make out. The main active vent now is apparently the merger of fissures #4 and #5 … Some of the other former fissure openings were still visible to the right as well. Since they had been active before the surrounding valleys had filled with lava considerably.

YESSS !! , eruption !!
we in iceland are sooo excited !!!
we still got it !!!
sense of relief when nature expresses herself !!!
Icelandic singer Björk on instagram

Watching this epic event from this vantage point was as exhilarating as standing at the viewpoint close to it … I was lost for words once more and could only stare … and grin … and push the shutter button of the camera … a once in a lifetime experience … I mean, when could you watch a volcanic eruption up close … one that posed little danger … Volcanologists were scrambling to forensically study this once-per-millennium event, which is giving them a window into the part of the country that is quite literally being ripped apart by titanic tectonic forces … last year had been the year of virologist … this year was the year of volcanologists … and I stood here and watched in awe …

Our 15 min on the hill were over in a flinge … and were too short … but we had to get going. As soon as we had piled back into the helicopter, the pilot started the engine and we were off … But we were not leaving just yet … we flew another grand tour of the eruption site! And as if to spoil us some more … the monster gushed out another red hot stream of molten earth …

The ocean conveys an idea of power; but not in the same sense or degree with which the volcano, which hurls great masses of rock amidst fire and smoke to the utmost range of human vision and makes the solid earth tremble over the area of an entire province with its deep reverberations. Imagination must be wanting in the people to whom such a spectacle does not appeal with singular force, and on whose minds it does not leave a profound impression. “The Volcanoes of Central America” Harper’s New Monthly Magazine 1859

There is no country in the known world where volcanic eruptions have been so numerous as in Iceland, or have been spread over so large a surface. No part of the island is wholly free from the marks of volcanic agency; and it may be truly called the abode of subterraneous heat … it appears that the force of subterraneous fire has been exerted upon every part of this extensive island; and when we consider the eruptions that have been seen at a distance in the sea, we are safe in estimating, that, in this part of the earth, one continued surface of not less than sixty thousand miles has been subjected to that engine of destruction. E. Polehampton & J. M. Good “Description of Hekla” 1818

With this last fly-by I had an amazing view into the crater where the beast just settled down for its resting interval once more. It was humongous from up here … I could hardly make out the tiny specks that were spectators on the viewpoint hill … Thinking that I had stood there last night … so close to that angry beast … it gave me shivers … Damn … to come to Iceland to see this spectacle in person had been the best decision I could have made! A once in a lifetime opportunity I had not missed! … Luckily! … and in this moment I knew … I would climb that hill again before flying back home! I had to! This volcano spotting was addictive!

And then … it was over … we had to head back to Reykjavik City Airport … I tried to crane my neck to catch a last glimpse of the eruption site behind us … then the vast expanse of the ancient lava field of Reykjanes Peninsula stretched below us with the city at the horizon … I had forgotten to put the headphones on … but I was in bliss … that helicopterflight was another one of those awesome experiences … I did not need the others or air traffic control babbling in my ears … I was content with the steady drone of the engine in my ears …

The approach to Reykjavik was spectacular as well, though. I could understand why people take helicopter tours that just take them on a quick flight over the city. We flew over the harbour and then had a wonderful view over Reykjavik city center with the Hallgrímskirkja clearly visible.

Our pilot even had to turn an extra circle for us, because a small plane was landing ahead of us – it was a tiny speck below us and hardly visible – and he had to wait eventhough we were not really using the landing strip … extra beautiful views over the city for us before the helicopter followed the airstrip and set down smoothly in front of the Norðurflug office.

We touched down 15:00 on the dot and as we waved the pilot good-bye his next group of volcano spotters was already eagerly waiting to go. Absolutely content and happy, I walked to my car and was off to the city and more adventures … But this for sure had not been my last visit to the mighty monster! Definitely not!