18.02.2019
This morning I got up at 04:00! It was no problem since I had slept last night by 19:30 already. The water in the bathroom seemed to be turned off for the night, so I had something resembling a bucket morning shower only. There was only a dribble of water coming from the tap. I packed my toothbrush, pyjamas and essentials in the camera daypack and off I went to the train station. For the first time I tried the ola app for a taxi and it worked perfectly – the car came within 5 min and it was Rs 91 to Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus – it was only an 8 min drive.
I went straight for the ticket window, which is open 24 hrs, and bought my ticket to Neral Junction. The next train was leaving at 05:20 – which was in 5 min – from platform # 3 and the ticket was all of Rs 25. I found the platform, but had to ask several people, if that was the right train, because there was no platform display or such. Eventually I found somebody in the know and hopped in the Ladies’ Coach just before the train left.
First the train was pretty empty, but then it got fuller and fuller. It was a slow train stopping at every station along the way. Between some stations the coach was packed to the limit and at other times it was almost empty. Nevertheless, there were always snack sellers or people hawking things like earrings, lipsticks, hairclips etc. Shopping on the go, so to say.
The trains have always open windows and open doors and this early in the morning it was really fresh. The wind is always blowing through. I was happy, that I had taken my jacket along after contemplating if I needed it. Good thing I had it, because before sunrise it was pretty cold in the train.
It took a bit more than 2 hrs to reach Neral Junction. I followed the train’s progress on Google Maps. But there was also a display in the coach and announcements – in Hindi and English – when approaching the next station. Neral is a railway station still on the Central line of the Mumbai Suburban Railway Network and a junction railway station between the Kalyan – Karjat section of Central Railway connecting Mumbai and Pune.
Getting off was no problem, the train was not that packed anymore. I had to cross the footbridge to the main platform and found the ticket window for Matheran easily. I knew the next train was at 08:50, so I had plenty time. The ticket sale only starts 45 min before departure, so I had 30 min to line up.
The Matheran Hill Railway – commonly known as the Matheran Toy Train – is a 610 mm narrow-gauge heritage railway, which is administered by the Central Railway. It covers a distance of 21 km, cutting a swathe through forest and connecting Neral to Matheran in the Western Ghats. The toy train service was suspended for 1.5 years following 2 derailments in May 2016. It was relaunched with fanfare in January 2018. So, I was happy I could do this – I love heritage trains – in fact, I love all trains ….
There are 4 Mountain Railway Lines in India. 3 of them – the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway and the Kalka–Shimla Railway – are collectively designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name Mountain Railways of India. The 4th railway is the Matheran Hill Railway which is on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. All 4 are narrow-gauge railways and the Nilgiri Mountain Railway is also the only rack railway in India. I had taken the Nilgiri Mountain Rail between Udhagamandalam (Ooty), Coonoor and Mettupalayam in 2017 and it was absolute fun. Part of the trip there was still done by steam locomotives.
Today only a few people were lining up for tickets yet, but I did not want to take a chance. So I waited patiently in line. There were 2 options – Rs 75 for 2nd class or Rs 300 for 1st class. I contemplated a lot – going in 2nd class would be more authentic and in the midst of it. As a train buff, I figured that would be the best. But then again … 1st class might not be as crowded and did not cost much anyway …. When the window opened, the decision was made for me. There was no 1st class coach today and the AC chair coach would be Rs 415. No thank you, AC I do not like, because I want to open the window and stick my nose in the wind and take photos! 2nd class it was then! I needed not to worry, though, about getting a ticket. While 2nd class was packed, in the AC coach were only 2 foreign tourist … nobody else ….
The ticket was wonderful – a proper old-fashioned card ticket – an Edmondson railway ticket! The Edmondson railway ticket was a system for recording the payment of railway fares and accounting for the revenue raised and introduced in the 1840s. It is named after its inventor, Thomas Edmondson, who was a station master on the Newcastle and Carlisle Railway in England. He introduced his system on the Manchester and Leeds Railway. Previously, railway companies had used handwritten tickets, as was the practice for stagecoaches, but it was laborious for a ticket clerk to write out a ticket for each passenger and long queues were common at busy stations. A faster means of issuing pre-printed tickets was needed. There was also a need to provide accountability by serial-numbering each ticket to prevent unscrupulous clerks from pocketing the fares, who now had to reconcile the takings against the serial numbers of the unsold tickets at the end of each day. The Edmondson system came into general use in 1842, becoming the essential standard feature. I still remember train tickets like that when i was a kid …
The clerk behind the ticket window had a fabulous system to give out seat numbers on the train, as well. Yes, seats were numbered! He had a big notebook and a stamp that showed numbers from 1 to 40 or so. He knew how many seats each coach had, so he crossed the numbers that were extra out. Then he would just mark seat numbers on it as he sold the tickets. He wrote by hand coach number and seat number on the ticket.
There was still time till the train and no train was yet insight, either. I just walked around the station a bit and looked at the old steam engine monument. Same as the Russians the Indians like to display old train engines at train stations.
The Neral–Matheran Light Railway was built between 1901 and 1907 by Abdul Hussein Adamjee Peerbhoy and financed by his father, Sir Adamjee Peerbhoy, who visited Matheran often and wanted to build a railway to make it easier to get there. Hussain’s plans for the Matheran Hill Railway were formulated in 1900 and construction began in 1904. The line was open to traffic by 1907. Consulting engineer Everard Calthrop designed a steam locomotive with Klien-Lindner axles for a flexible wheelbase and 4 were supplied by Orenstein & Koppel. They ran from the railway’s opening in 1907 until 1982, when they were replaced by diesel engines. By 1983, all steam locomotives were phased out.
While waiting at the platform a man started taking to me. Turned out he was one of the train drivers. He was waiting for the train to be brought in and then he would drive it up to Matheran. The train was eventually brought in by a switcher, because here was the terminus for the narrow gauge track.
I found my seat in 2nd class. I was riding backwards, but at least I had 2 seats to myself. There were a lot of children on the train and I think, one of them might have had the seat next to me and was just scared to sit next to the foreigner …. The train was packed and noisy. Eventually it left with 30 min delay. Slowly the train crawled along. There are many tight curves – 236 in total – and speed is limited to 12 km/h – I am not sure if the train ever reach that top speed, though. It was so slow at times, that people jumped on to ride along for a couple kilometer.
I loved it! I am a train buff – I think I said that before … I would have done the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway – the Darjeeling Toy Train – as well already, but the 2 times I attempted to, the town was always on strike and the train not running. In 1995 I actually went by bus up to Darjeeling and wanted to go down by train, but all of a sudden the town went on general strike and everything – literally everything including the railway – was closed. There were not even restaurants or snack stalls open anymore. So I had to hightail it off the mountain. I was lucky to be able to hop on one of the last busses that came up the mountain and were allowed back down. That whole experience – along with other things – put me off of visiting India for nearly 16 years … The second attempt to go to Darjeeling in 2011 also failed miserably. Already while in Varanasi I read in the newspaper – yes I love reading the local newspapers – that Darjeeling was on strike again and when I arrived in Siliguri that was confirmed. There was no bus or jeep or train going up to Darjeeling. I had back then hooked up with some other travelers and we decided to go to Sikkim instead. That was equally complicated because traffic was restricted since the road was skirting the area that was under strike and residents up there were hostile towards passing vehicles. Only government busses in convoy were allowed. All that put me off Darjeeling . But I guess I have to try again. All things are 3 is the saying, no?
The 610 mm narrow-gauge line to Matheran runs parallel to the broad-gauge line west of Hardal Hill out of Neral before turning east to ascend towards Matheran. The rail and road meet near Jummapatti and meet again after a brief separation at Bhekra Khud. After a short level stretch, there is a sharp ascent just before Mount Barry. A large horseshoe embankment was built to avoid a reversing station here. The line runs for a couple of kilometer or so northwards around this before turning to take the One-Kiss-Tunnel through the embankment. This One-Kiss-Tunnel is the only tunnel on the route and it earned its nickname because the tunnel is just long enough to exchange a kiss. It is approx 35 m long and the passage is just a minute if ever.
After that 2 more zig-zags through deep cuttings remain before Panorama Point is reached. From there the view over the landscape towards the east is spectacular – if it is not smog-hazy, which it was today, unfortunately.
Then the line bends back to Simpson’s Tank and ends at Matheran. It takes about 2.5 hrs to complete the journey. There are 3 stations between Neral and Matheran which are Jumapatti, then Water Pipe, where they used to fill the steam locomotives, and Aman Lodge which is named after a nearby lodge. That is also where the road ends and the car park is situated. The line is a single track and only at the stations the trains can pass. All is well-timed.
Just before reaching Aman Lodge the train passed the a huge statue of Ganpati – Lord Ganesha – standing erect and painted on a rock surface with a rat at his feet. This is known locally as Kadyavarcha Ganpati, as it is on the corner of the hill. Apparently it is the tallest Ganesha statue in the world. It stands amidst the beautiful hills and hence it is appropriately named Narsarg Raja or King of Nature.
Right next to the rail line is the entrance to the temple marked by a bell – many train passengers ring this bell for good luck when the train passes. Ganesha – also known as Ganapati, Vinayaka, Pillaiyar and Binayak – is one of the best-known and most worshipped deities in the Hindu pantheon. Hindu denominations worship him regardless of affiliations. Devotion to Ganesha is widely diffused and extends to Jains and Buddhists. Although he is known by many attributes, Ganesha’s elephant head makes him easy to identify. He is widely revered as the remover of obstacles, the patron of arts and sciences and the deva of intellect and wisdom. As the God of beginnings, he is honoured at the start of rites, ceremonies and before new beginnings. Ganesha is also invoked as patron of letters and learning during writing sessions.
The last stop before Matheran is Aman Lodge. There are a few more shuttle trains from Matheran to here and return because of the nearby parking lot. The full trip from Neral is done only twice per day in both directions. When we stopped at that station, there were many monkeys – cheeky Rhesus Macaques looking for food. And they did jump up to the open train windows fishing for snacks! The people were screaming …. I though it was fun. I had no food, though, so they left me alone. They also did not jump in the train, just looked into the windows.
This romantic railway ride is the pride and joy of the charming Matheran Hill Station that is enveloped in the beauty of forests, rich wildlife and a diverse range of flora and fauna. However, the best part about Matheran is that vehicles of all kinds are banned here, making it a pollution free, relaxing and peaceful getaway from the city. The word Matheran means “forest on top”. It is one of the smallest hill stations of India. Matheran exudes its own unique charm and stands out from the other hill stations. It is one of the few places in the world where vehicles – even bicycles – are completely banned.
Matheran is located on the Western Ghats range at an elevation of around 800 m above sea level. It’s proximity to many metropolitan cities makes it a popular weekend getaway for urban residents. The toy train ride up takes approx 2.5 hrs and reached town around 12:00 noon today. The train station in Matheran is as small as the train and at the moment seemed to be under renovation. Getting off the train, the frist thing to do was to pay the Matheran tax of Rs 50. It is like some sort of entrance ticket, I guess.
There are indeed no vehicles about in the small town – no motorbikes, no bicycles. Just horses and hand pulled rickshaws. I had not booked a hotel for the night yet, but I had looked up some places on the relevant apps. I had set my sight on Park View Matheran and made my way there. It was just on the main market street a few hundred meters along.
A walk along Matheran transports you to a different time altogether – the colonial architecture and the red-soil roads with sparse traffic remind you of the British bygone era. Matheran was identified by Hugh Poyntz Malet, the then district collector of Thane district in May 1850 and Lord Elphinstone, the then Governor of Bombay laid the foundations of the development as a future hill station. The British developed Matheran as a popular resort to beat the summer heat in the region. Beautiful old British-style architecture is preserved in Matheran and tells grand tales of an era gone by. Some of the old buildings had been converted into hotel and restaurants. There were many shops in the main market area.
And the entire town seemed to be smelling of horse like all the time and everywhere.… Sorry to say. I do have to say, the horses looked well enough treated, seemed well fed and cleaned. Some of them looked just not happy, but there were no skinny horses around.
There were saddled horses everywhere and every few meters of the way the horsemen offered horse rides … or pushcart rides. – Madame, you want horse? – No thank you! – Lady, you want horse ride? – No thank you! – You you, horse? – Handcart, madam? … But those handcarts, however, seemed very seldom used. At least I only saw one being pulled around. The horses were pretty busy, though. Indian tourists like to go on horseback around here.
They did have a room at Park View Hotel and I bargained the “super deluxe” room down from Rs 1800 to 1000 without AC. It was an OK room for one night, big and looking over the courtyard. Hot water was only from 08:00 – 10:00 – so I skipped the shower. They did have good enough WIFI, though. Mobile reception was otherwise very spotty, at least my Idea did not work well.
While it had been very fresh still this morning below, it had gotten warmer and the sun had come out during the train ride. It was quite hot at midday. I went for a walk around in search for lunch and beer. At midday the market street was not too busy. Life seemed to revolve around the train arrivals and departures. I checked in a couple of the better hotels for bars, but nothing. It seemed to be a dry area here …. damn … a cold beer in this dry heat would go down sizzling … I decided to walk to the view points later in the afternoon. For now I just checked out the small settlement Matheran was and walked a couple of the side streets. Everything is geared up for local tourists here, shop stalls of all kinds and eateries lined the main street. I did not meet any other foreigners, though. Completing a circle I ended up near the train station again where there is a fancy I Love Matheran sign which is frequented by many tourists. I guess, a photo with the sign is mandatory when visiting here …
Just near the train station I found the probably only restaurant-bar in town! I stood in front of a nice garden restaurant and contemplated going in, when a waiter came out and invited me in. Do you have beer? – Of course we have beer! – Cold beer? – Of course cold beer! Come in! – It was Divadkar Hotel Restaurant Bar. The garden was pleasant enough and the Kingfisher was indeed very cold. Good! I ordered food as well – Mutton Masala and Veg Fried Noodles. It was very good.
After lunch I went back to my room to have a couple of hours afternoon siesta. It was too hot to go walking yet and I had gotten up very early this morning. A nap it was, then. Around 15:30 I did get up and going, though. There were 2 geocaches in the area which I wanted to visit and of course some of the view points. The gorgeous landscapes, the breath-taking steep cliffs of Matheran, all owe their continuing charm to the ban of vehicles. The population of the town is very modest and nature-loving.
They claim, there are as many as 38 view points around here, each of which can give a unique experience and view. Wide gravel tracks lead through the forests and connect all the points. They are not very well sign posted, but with GPS and having locals point out the direction occasionally I found the way easily.
The rock up here is basalt, which has given rise to secondary alteration known as laterite. The laterite predominates in the hills and almost covers the hill tops, therefore in the hill region the hard exposed surfaces of the laterite shows red gravelly earth. Over almost the whole hill-top there is little soil cover. The topmost layer of rock is a soft porous iron-clay. The forest type of Matheran is semi evergreen forests. The trees are evergreen, making the plateau forests very dense and even congested in places. The luxuriant growth represents the climatic climax of the forest. The laterite, porous soil along with very heavy rainfall mixed with dense fog has resulted in a unique flora rich in diversity on the plateau. The trees form a cover over large variety of shade loving herbs, climbers, ferns and mosses.
It was beautiful walking along and passing every now and a again the gates of stately villas in the forest. The entire town, which consisted not only of the market area, but spread through the forest of the plateau, had a beautiful somewhat dilapidated colonial charm. Some of the houses seemed deserted, but others were still inhabited. The humidity of the monsoon climate gives those houses this special look, the red dust and green forests around them add to the image. I loved it.
The first secret box was supposed to be near Coronation Point and it was supposed to be hidden in a bench made out of a tree trunk. Thing was, that bench had disappeared … Nobody had found that geocache in a while anyway. Geocaches here do not get visited very often. So I just did the photolog option again. I was here!
I walked from there along the main path leading to the next major look out – Louisa Point. There was also a secret box hidden – and it had not been found by anybody yet. Louisa Point is almost 1.5 km away from the market. Local tourist do the view point circuit on horseback. The horses were being led by the handlers along the path. If it’s a clear sunny day, Louisa Point will offer a breathtaking view. It is a unique point in Matheran as it offers different picturesque views – from one point, the sky touching the mountains and a villages located far in the valley below can be seen. Another view is of Lake Charlotte that looks like a diamond necklace when seen from here. Louisa Point apparently also offers a clear view of Prabal Fort. Unfortunately, with today’s haze the views were not as compelling, but still nice.
Before I looked for the secret box I went all the way to the view-point. The actual Louisa Point is now fenced off following selfie-taking accidents. But there is a gap in the reeling and I did climb up as well … No selfie taking for me, though and quickly down again. This place is also known as a photographer’s paradise, because it offers panoramic views of mountains, peaks, valleys, lake and waterfalls – and monkeys.
I had to wait for some horse riding tourists to leave the horse-parking-lot before I could search for that secret box. It was rather hard, the hint stated it being in a tree trunk and there was even a spoiler picture. But with jumping GPS coords and many trees around, it took a long time for me to find the correct tree. I almost gave up a couple of times and then though otherwise. Finally I located the correct tree! But sure there was no box … It was supposed to be inside the trunk under a rock, but I did not want to stick my hand into the unknown … I used a stick to rummage around, but came up with nothing. So …. Another photolog it is …
Whilst I was on the circuit view-point trail, I decided to continue on to Lake Charlotte which was maybe another 2 km around the cliff to the other side past Echo Point. There was not other option other than returning the way I came anyway. From Louisa Point the Echo Point can be seen and heard. It is on the other side of the cliff with a deep valley in between. The path leads through the forest around it. At strategic junction points locals had set up small huts for tea stalls selling cold drinks and snacks. At one of those I stopped for a cold Salty Lemon Soda. It is the best against dehydration in this heat. There were also many monkeys around – macaques everywhere and some shy Hanuman Lagurs as well.
If there’s any place that captures the essence of Matheran than it has to be the Charlotte Lake which is the main source of water for the people of Matheran. The lake is set amidst the densely forested area, sprawls out with a dam at one end and the Pisarnath Temple at the other. I skipped visiting the temple and just had a quick look at the lake. In dry season it is not that spectacular, though.
Walking back to the main market street from there I passed more of those colonial villas – Madhu House Forest Lodge was my favourite. Nestled in the deep forests close to Echo Point it is an amazing English Bungalow which is over 150 years old. It is popularly known as the “Glasshouse” and has a combination of glass, wood and white protective finish.
This gracious house is rather formal at first glance. It is expansive and stands regally tall with the forest around it which engulfs it and transports one to another era altogether. It belonged to the great-grandfather Sir Shanti Das of Madhu Singhji, who is a social worker and business entrepreneur. Sir Das had made it his winter home, shuttling from London to Mumbai when he was among the first discoverers of Matheran.
The approach path from the gate to the bungalow of the Madhu Forest Lodge allows one to take in the once dazzling white exteriors, which fuse into the pristine greenery around. The garden chairs sprawled around the lawns once readily – now somewhat dilapidated which adds to its charm however – welcomed visitors to holiday detoxification mood.
I was totally fascinated by this house and the photos do not do it justice. Unfortunately the gate was locked and the house looked very deserted. I would have loved getting a closer look and taking more photos.
Back in the market street I stopped at a juice stand again for another Salty Lemon Soda. It had been a long, dusty walk this afternoon. The market street was busy. All shops were open and local tourists were shopping big time. Just after sunset they were all returning from their outings to the view points and since Indians eat dinner very late – this was the time for shopping.
I found a sign above a shop which was like a big blast from the past – I think only East Germans can relate to that, though. ORWO – ORiginal WOlfen – was a brand for photographic products and magnetic recording tape. Those were the films we used and that sign must be 30 years old, I swear.
It was around 18:30 and I went to my favourite restaurant again. The kitchen was not open yet for dinner, but the bar was and I had a cold beer. Then I skipped dinner altogether and then went back to the hotel. I had to close the paperwork for the last tour and do some e-mailing. I slept fairly early again.
19.02.2019
Monkeys running around on the tin roof of the hotel woke me up early this morning. I did some writing and then packed up and left at 08:00. There was nobody at the reception desk, which was anyway only a table with a chair it seemed. I left the room key there. I had paid yesterday.
The town seemed deserted that early in the morning. The morning train would leave 09:20 for Neral Junction. There was a shuttle to Aman Lodge before that, but tickets for the trip to Neral were again only sold from 45 min before departure. Therefore, I went to take some more photos of the steam engine monument and the signs around.
Walking around Matheran for a day made my shoes look just like Matheran – the red laterite soil typical for here stuck to them. Laterite is a soil rich in iron and aluminium and is commonly considered to have formed in hot and wet tropical areas. Nearly all laterite are of rusty-red coloration, because of high iron oxide content. They develop by intensive and prolonged weathering of the underlying parent rock. The shoe shiners in Mumbai will have a fit when they see my shoes …
I found a small local restaurant opposite the train station and had the best Lemon Tea ever. I just do not like Masala Chai – mainly because it has cooked milk in it. That smell and taste just makes me gag. I cannot do warm milk, no – maybe hot milk with honey as a home remedy against a cold, but that only with pinched nose. But Indian Chai where they cook the milk with the tea and it then makes the milk skin on top …. Brrrr. Fortunately here they made me a Black Masala Tea and gave me a lemon with it. It was delicious.
Just after 08:30 I lined up for the train ticket. I decided to splurge on First Class today. This train had such a coach and the ticket was Rs 300. The ticket was green this time but again the old-fashioned one. Same as yesterday on the way up, the conductor did not punch a hole in it – as would be tradition – maybe the hole puncher was broken? – he just ticked it off with his pen.
Once I had my ticket, I went for another tea and some more photos. The train was on time this morning. The 1st class coach was also full today – 2nd class was packed, though. There were 2 other foreigners and a family from Delhi in my coach. The seats were definitely more comfortable than in 2nd class!
The views were slightly better this morning, a little less haze than yesterday. It was very hot and sunny already early in the morning. The Lord Ganesha Statue was beautiful in the morning sun.
I switched sides often – when the views were better on the other side I stood by the open window in the end of the coach to look out. If you thought, that downhill the train would be faster – then think again. It was even slower. It stopped many times. There was a lot of track improvement going on.
Apparently there had been several derailments – not of the entire train, but single coaches without casualties last year. Mind you, that train is going so slow, you would probably hardly notice if a coach jumps out the track.
At one of the stops snack sellers walked the length of the train and I had to try a new fruit. It looked somewhat like unripe tamarind and I had seen other people eat it. So for Rs 10 I got a portion in eco-friendly packaging. I found out later it was Manila Tamarind – Pithecellobium dulce – a species of flowering plant in the pea family native to the Pacific Coast and adjacent highlands of Mexico, Central America and northern South America, but is an introduced species and extensively naturalized India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Thailand and the Philippines. The flowers produce a pod, which turns pink when ripe and opens to expose the seed arils – a pink or white, edible pulp. The pulp contains black shiny seeds that are circular and flat. The sweet and sour pulp is eaten raw. In India, it goes by the name “Madras Thorn”, although it is not native to Madras. The name “Manila Tamarind” is very misleading as well, since it is neither closely related to tamarind nor native to Manila. I actually liked it very much. It was not very sweet and tasted rather good. I finished the entire portion. A good lunch it was.
The toy train reached Neral Junction after 3.5 hrs approx 13:00 and I went quickly to buy a ticket to CSMT Mumbai. It was Rs 25 again. The next through train was going only in 45 min, but I did not have the patience to wait. So I hopped on the next passing train in direction Mumbai and rode to Kalyan Junction. The Ladies Coach was not very full and I had a seat. It got packed after a while, though, and came complete with all the knick knack sellers again.
Getting off in Kalyan Junction was a big pushing and squeezing out and then I was lost. There was no display for the next trains. I had no idea where to go. I went up on the foot bridge connecting the platforms and looked searchingly around. A woman asked me – in Hindi – where I was going. CST! She talked and pointed and talked and I gathered as much as – stay here and look at the signs over the stairs to the platforms – there it will show. And sure enough after 2 min a couple of platforms over the sign above the stairs showed CST and another woman pushed and pulled me along to get there. Go quick! Lucky there is always a Ladies Coach at the very beginning, very end and in the middle of the train. Those always stop in the same spot – a sign at the platform marks this spot – and always close to the stairs. This train was packed and I really had to squeeze in. It was like in a sardine tin. At least I could look over everybody – as usually I was the tallest person in the coach.
A friend mentioned – when seeing the photos – that it was a good thing there is no smell-photo. But I tell you it did not smell – at least they all did not smell more or less than me – because all doors and windows are always open on those suburban trains. The regular German tourist would rather have screamed – Close the door! There is a draft! Too much wind!
I moved around in the door area from side to side all the time – the train stopped often and women were getting on and off. I did not want to stand too close to the open door, though. Some young girls liked it in the doors, half hanging out with the wind in their faces.
The last 15 min or so I had a seat – a woman had motioned me to her seat when she got off. I was anyway eyed all the time from everybody. I guess, it is not often, that foreigners ride the suburban trains.
I arrived in CSMT Mumbai around 14:45 and walked to the hotel. What a train adventure that was! Loved it!
