06.11.2019
Another round cruising on the Brahmaputra was ahead of me. I had been looking forward to it all summer long. I was scheduled to fly with the guests on Lufthansa on 07.11. and they did book me a connection from Dresden. I had asked to change it to a longer stop-over in Frankfurt, though. Originally it was only 1.5 hrs and that is in my experience pushing it, especially when on an international connection. The domestic flights from Dresden always land at the outer airfield and the bus ride to the terminal takes all in all like 30 min. Trust me, I know! I have done this connection to France this summer 2 times return and every time it was a disaster – either I missed the connection or my suit case did. Therefore, they had changed me for a 3.5 hrs connection which had given me a bit of leeway.
But then yesterday … big story in the news … Lufthansa in-flight personnel is going to go on strike for 2 days … exactly the day I needed to fly … and soon enough my phone rang and the flight dispo of my company advised me to change the domestic ticket portion to a train ticket online and then get on the train to be in Frankfurt in the morning of 07.11. – just in case …
The change was easy enough and I was packed anyways … almost … I have done the Brahmaputra and Ganges Cruises for the past 3 years already and this had been the first time they had put me on a flight connection from Dresden. All the other times, I had taken the last possible train to Frankfurt, arrived hopefully on time around 23:00 and stayed in a hostel close to Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof. So I changed that flight ticket and searched for a hotel close to Frankfurt Airport … Nothing for less than € 400 per night … same close to Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof … But there was the Frankfurt Hostel, were I sometimes stayed for around € 30 in a 4-bed-dorm … Only this time around – on such short notice – the cheapest was a 8-bed-mixed-dorm for € 50 … I booked the 4-bed-female-dorm for € 96 instead and phoned the company afterwards, if it was OK – or should I take the € 400 airport hotel? … NO! This is fine, just send the bill in!
I finished packing for 5 weeks India workcation – some work – some vacation – more work, though … This afternoon I tried to online-check-in for the flight Frankfurt to Delhi and sure enough it was cancelled … Oh well! … I called flight dispo, but they were busy working on it … I got going … I had the train ticket, off I went. I had to go to Frankfurt in any case. On the way to the train station the call came, that I better be in Frankfurt in the morning, because Lufthansa was not cooperative, so they would cancel the flights and rebook the group on Turkish Airlines. No problem, I am on the way to Frankfurt and will arrive around midnight! – You have a hotel? – Yes, I do! – Good! We will send you the new flight ticket as soon as possible! – Is my Lufthansa train ticket still valid? – Yes, we only cancelled the international flight!
By the time I reached Dresden-Neustadt to change for the ICE to Frankfurt my phone had been ringing off the hook with ever changing news and details. But eventually there was an e-mail and a following call – You have a new flight! You will not fly with the guests on Turkish Airlines. – Oh! Why not? – We needed all the remaining seats for the guests, there was no space for you. – And now what? – You will fly 2 hrs ahead of the guests with Gulf Air via Bahrain and the second leg even in Business Class! – Cool! – Yes. And 2 ladies from the group will also fly with you but they are both legs in Business. – No problem.
For once the train to Frankfurt was – almost – on time and I reached Frankfurt Hostel shortly before midnight. Straight to bed …
07.11.2019
… and up again at 06:00. I slept fitful – something was bugging me – stings and itchy arms … oh no! Bed bugs again … In the morning my arms and hands were spotted with big blotches. Never mind … get out of here quickly! Later I sent them an e-mail – For € 96 I would have expected to at least have a uninfested bed … they apologized and promised to give me some money back … will see …
I walked across to the train station, bought a quick coffee to pick me up and hopped on the next S-Bahn to the airport. Easily I found the shuttle bus to Terminal 2 – the sun was just rising over the airport.
Check-in for my flight opened shortly after I arrived. I lined up for Economy, but the lady behind the counter there made such a big fuzz with everybodies carry-on luggage … weighing it and having them re-pack … it was unbelievable. I did get 2x 23 kg check-in luggage allowance on this flight, but since I had been travelling already when the new ticket came through, I had not packed accordingly. On my original flight I had only 1x 23 kg allowance, therefore I had a bag with books and papers as cabin luggage …
So, when it was my turn I just went to the Falcon Gold class check-in for business class. The guy behind the counter of course looked at me suspiciously – You fly business class? – Well yes, of course! … From Bahrain! Any chance for business class also from Frankfurt? – Yes, for € 600! – Well thanks, but no thanks …
Good thing was, he did not check my carry-on at all and he gave me a seat at an emergency exit with more leg room. Pretending my cabin bags were both light as a feather I thanked the guy behind the counter cheerfully and quickly walked away towards the passport control.
Electronic passport control was quick and so was security check. Fortunately – finally! – they have body scanners here now as well. I love them! Since for some reason the security gate always beeps when I pass even though I remove everything that could trigger it, I always get felt up – which I hate. But with the scanner – Halleluhja! – no more of that … only spot check …
In Duty Free I bought my traditional medicinal Vodka and luckily I could pay it with my Lufthansa Miles … so it was basically for free … And it also fit into my backpack. I carry way too much shit with me … The book bag, the camera bag, my hand bag and 2 jackets. Well, yes! Jackets in layers. It will be cold when I get back home in December …
I did not have to wait too long and boarding started. Nobody even took a second look at any of the cabin luggage of anybody. The flight was uneventful. The plane was only half full. They had some good movies in the otherwise limited movie selection and I got plenty of G&Ts in – the food was good, too. The 6 hrs flight went quickly.
In Bahrain we had a 1.5 hrs lay over, but that went quick, too. I met the 2 ladies from my group who were flying with me as well and we had a chat. On the next leg of the flight I had business class. It turned out that economy was packed. Otherwise my company would never have booked me on business.
It was only a 4 hrs flight to Delhi, so I did not sleep, but enjoyed some more movies, excellent food and plenty G&Ts – starting out with a decadent glass of champagne, though.
08.11.2019
Before I knew it we were landing in Delhi around 05:00 local time. Since the plane was much smaller than the regular A 380 we would have come on with Lufthansa, the jam at immigrations was almost non-existant and we breezed through in no time. That might also be, because they had added many more immigrations desks since I was here last. With the easily obtained e-visa for India, I guess, there might be more tourists coming as well .. maybe …
Luggage was a different story. The belt was still full with luggage from a different flight and our suitcases, along with everybody else’s on our flight, were stuck. The sensors would not let them flop onto the belt. So, I and some other people started to move suitcases together on the belt when they passed to make bigger gaps in between. Eventually also some airport personnel came to take suitcases from the other flight off the belt to make space.
Finally our suitcases arrived. The Representative of the Tour Agency waited for us already and we walked to the transfer car. On the way he fiddled with my Indian mobile phone and charged it. The SIM card was still active and for Rs 509 I now get unlimited local calls and 1.5 GB per day data for the next 3 months! In no time I was online again. Happy I was!
I went with the 2 ladies to our hotel – Vivanta by Taj Dwarka – and we quickly checked in. They went to sleep, but I just dropped all my stuff off and went back to the airport. The driver had waited for me. I knew the procedure to get into the Arrivals Hall – pay Rs 100 and show the passport at a checkpoint, then pass a security check and in I was.
The flight with another 20 guests of our group had just landed with 25 min delay at 05:40. Luckily, the guests also arrived quickly. I think it was also a small airplane. Or maybe it was indeed, because they had built more Immigrations Desks and the lines there were not as long anymore as they used to be.
Once everybody had changed money, we got on the bus to the hotel, were we reached at 07:45 and I quickly checked them all in.
Nevertheless, our City Tour Delhi would start at 10:00! Usually we start 09:00, but I could not move it further back either, because our program is quite tight. The guests had breakfast or took a nap or whatever and I met our guide in the lobby. No sleep or break for me …
Almost on time we left – nobody was late. We got as usual stuck in morning rush hour traffic. That was already an adventure for the guests – most of them however were having a nap in the bus and missed it.
It was very smoggy still in Delhi. The very severe smog of the last few days had however cleared after it apparently had rained the day before. While in January we had 9°C in the morning now it was a balmy 17°C.
We drove all the way to Old Delhi, but skipped our usually first stop – the Masjid-i Jahān-Numā – the World-reflecting Mosque – commonly known as the Jama Masjid of Delhi – is one of the largest mosques in India with a courtyard capable of holding 25000 devotees.
It was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan between 1644 and 1656 at a cost of 1 mio rupees and was inaugurated by an Imam from Bukhara, present-day Uzbekistan. The mosque was completed in 1656 and ended up being the final architectural extravagance of Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor who built the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort. The highly decorative mosque has 3 great gates, 4 towers and 2 minarets each 40 m high and constructed with strips of red sandstone and white marble. There are 3 domes on the terrace which are surrounded by the 2 minarets. On the floor, a total of 899 black borders are marked for worshippers.
There are no real security checks at the Northern gate – which is the main gate used by tourist groups, but there are no bags allowed inside and each camera or mobile phone attracts a camera fee of Rs 300. And they do check for cameras or mobiles in everybody’s pockets! Also, all females have to wearing the funny robes they hand out to women at the entrance …
I had visited the mosque already a few times and to the guests we did not even mention it, so they did not miss it this time. Instead we directly took our walk through the old town alleyways. Chandni Chowk is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi. This densely populated market area has been around for more than 300 centuries and was once visited by merchants from Turkey, China and even Holland. It was built in the 17th century by the Mughal Emperor of India Shah Jahan and designed by his daughter Jahanara. The market still remains one of India’s largest wholesale markets.
Chandni Chowk is characterized by its many lanes and by-lanes that are filled with all the hustle and bustle associated with a vibrant market places. Each of these lanes is famous for a specialty that is particular to itself. These can range from glittering jewelry to mouthwatering foodstuff. It perhaps symbolizes the vibrant feel that characterizes India and her way of life. Besides this, it also symbolizes the unity in diversity that is present amongst Indians all around the country.
Walking through the hustle and bustle on the first day in India – and for many of the guests it was the first time India ever – is always a culture shock for them. There is the noise, the dirt, the crowds, the smells, the colours, the traffic …
From there we drove back to New Delhi to take a quick tour of Raisina Hill, the Government District – it is part of every city tour in Delhi. In 1911 when it was decided to transfer the capital of British India from Calcutta to Delhi, a planning committee was formed and a site 5 km south of the existing city of Delhi around Raisina Hill – which provided ample room for expansion – was chosen for the new administrative centre.
Raisina Hill – often used as a metonym for the seat of the Government of India – is housing India’s most important government buildings, including Rashtrapati Bhavan, the official residence of the President of India and the Secretariat building housing the Prime Minister’s Office and several other important ministries. It is surrounded by other important buildings and structures, including the Parliament of India, Rajpath and India Gate. The term Raisina Hill was coined following acquisition of land from 300 families from local villages. Land was acquired under the 1894 Land Acquisition Act to begin the construction of the Viceroy’s House. After independence it was turned over into the permanent residence of President of Indian Republic.
The Secretariat Building or Central Secretariat is where the Cabinet Secretariat is housed, which administers the Government of India. Built in the 1910s, it is home to some of the most important ministries of the Cabinet of India. There are two blocks of symmetrical buildings – North Block and South Block – on opposite sides of the great axis of Rajpath and flanking the Rashtrapati Bhavan.
Our driver as usual took us as close as the tourist bus is allowed to and turned a couple circles around the roundabout so everybody could take some photos.
The Rashtrapati Bhavan – Presidential Palace – formerly the Viceroy’s House – is the official residence of the President of India and we could only see it from the distance. At least the smog was not so bad – sometimes we do not see it at all because is hidden in foggy smog. Rashtrapati Bhavan has a 340-room main building that has the president’s official residence, including reception halls, guest rooms and offices – it is also called the mansion. The entire 130 ha Presidential Estate additionally includes huge presidential gardens – the Mughal Gardens, large open spaces, residences of bodyguards and staff, stables, other offices and utilities within its perimeter walls. In terms of area, it is the largest residence of any head of state in the world.
We also took a drive around the circle of India Gate – originally called the All India War Memorial – which is actually a war memorial located astride the Rajpath. India Gate is a memorial to 70000 soldiers of the British Indian Army who died in WW I and the Third Anglo-Afghan War. 13 300 servicemen’s names, including some soldiers and officers from the United Kingdom, are inscribed on the gate. The India Gate, even though a war memorial is often compared to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris and the Gateway of India in Mumbai.
Next stop was Gurudwara Bangla Sahib – one of the most prominent Sikh Gurdwaras or Sikh Houses of Worship – in Delhi and known for its association with the 8th Sikh Guru – Guru Har Krishan – as well as the pool inside its complex, known as the Sarovar. It was first built as a small shrine by Sikh General Sardar Bhagel Singh Dhaliwal in 1783, who supervised the construction of 9 Sikh shrines in Delhi in the same year during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Alam II. It is instantly recognizable by its golden dome and tall flagpole – Nishan Sahib.
I have once been to the Golden Temple in Amritsar – Harmandir Sahib – also called Darbar Sahib – Sacred Audience in Punjabi – the Chief Gurdwara of Sikhism and the Sikhs’ most important pilgrimage site. That was in 2011 and it was very impressive.
The Sikh religion began in the 15th century in the Punjab state of India and was founded by Guru Nanak Dev. Sikhs rejected the caste system of Hindus. They believe that there is one God and that all people are equal – men… women… different races and religions… everyone.
We left all bags in the bus, which stopped right at the entrance, and took only cameras. As usual the toilet stop was a must for our guests – lucky that there were for the first day acceptable facilities located at the entrance. Right there were also rooms with chairs where foreign guests can leave their shoes. There are no shoes allowed inside the temple. Also bright orange head scarves were provided for all visitors, but of course the women could also use their own scarves. God being the supreme, heads need to be covered all the time in order to pay respect – even for the men! Thus, the most prominent reason for covering the heads in Gurudwara is respect.
At the entrance there are small purifying pools with slightly warm water only a few centimeters deep where everybody had to sploosh through. Cleaning the feet before entering …
The grounds include the Gurudwara, a kitchen, a large holy pond, a school and an art gallery. The Gurdwara – Door to the Guru – is a place of assembly and worship for Sikhs. People from all faiths, and those who do not profess any faith, are welcomed in Sikh gurdwaras. The Gurdwara has a Darbar Sahib where the current and everlasting guru of the Sikhs, the scripture Guru Granth Sahib, is placed on an elevated throne in a prominent central position. A religion that worships a book! Imagine that!
Sikhism is the world’s 5th most popular religion – a monotheistic faith that believes in equality and service to others. Sikhs believe that if you don’t live a life full of good deeds you will be reborn and repeat the circle of life and death.
Aad Sri Guru Granth Sahib is the principal scripture of Sikhism. It was written by the 10 gurus of Sikhism and is itself regarded by Sikhs as the final, sovereign and eternal living guru. The text consists of 1430 pages and 6000 line compositions, which are poetically rendered and set to a rhythmic ancient north Indian classical form of music.
The vision in the Guru Granth Sahib is of a society based on divine justice without oppression of any kind. While the Granth acknowledges and respects the scriptures of Hinduism and Islam, it does not imply a moral reconciliation with either of these religions. In the Gudwara all Sikhs bow or prostrate before it on entering. The Granth is revered as eternal and spiritual authority in Sikhism. Sikhs do not have a particular day of worship, but due to the regular work week, Sunday is a popular day for that.
No photos – at least no selfies and family photos were allowed inside, but nobody said anything when descretely photos were taken. We walked with all others clockwise around the throne of the book. There were Sikhs reciting, singing and explaining the verses from the Guru Granth Sahib on microphone. Endless, monotone recitations accompanied by a seemingly monotone musical rhythm…
We walked along the holy pond and across to the kitchen. All gurdwaras have a langar hall, where people can eat free vegetarian food served by volunteers. Visiting there is my favourite part.
When I was in Amritsar, I had hooked up with a couple other people and we visited the Golden Temple in the evening. We wanted to just have a look in the kitchen … but no chance just looking … before we could say anything somebody had pushed a metal plate and a spoon in our hands and we were ushered in the large dining hall.
Quietly and orderly, people of all castes, religions and ages took places on long, rough mats on the floor and we just followed everybodyelse’s lead and sat down crossed legged with the plate in front us. Servers walked along the lines of hungry people slapping rice, dal and vegetable curry with big ladles on the plates. Even chapathi was served. I think we were the only ones eating with a spoon, though … Traditionally, Indians eat with their right hand only.
The food was good enough. The only thing we passed on was the water served in metal cups. Once finished eating everybody got up and took their plates to the dish washing area. And out we were again.
Here in Delhi, we did not eat … that is something we could not dare to offer our guests … but we visited the kitchen. The concept of langar is practiced and all people, regardless of race or religion may eat in the Gurdwara kitchen. The food is prepared by gursikhs who work there and also by volunteers who like to help out. The free kitchen here in Delhi dishes out an astonishing 10000 meals a day – they serve an amazing 180 people every 15 min from 5:30am to 11:30pm and the kitchen operates all night. People donate ingredients and shortfalls are made up for by transfers from other Gurdwara in the city, a system that runs with the efficiency of an army mess.
We were allowed to walk through the huge kitchen, though. The pots where dal and vegetables are cooked are hug. The biggest pots you will probably every see.
Maybe a dozen or so people sat around a huge tray and formed chapathi which were then put on a huge hot plate to bake by other people and then flipped into a pot to store until served.
In another large room many people sat peeling, cutting and generally preparing vegetables for the kitchen. All volunteers as well.
As we left the Gurdwara some of the guests walked through the purifying water again – even though this is actually only done when entering. But I guess, there is the Western thinking of – Who knows what I stepped into, better clean my feet! The premises of the Sikh temple are always very clean, though, the marble floor is shiny. And of course with their wet feet it gets slippery … and one women of course slipped and landed on her butt … Initially she said she did not hurt herself, but after a while she lamented about pain in her left wrist and asked for a doctor’s visit … Oh well … I set the wheels in motion, but of course we had to continue our tour.
This time around we skipped lunch – we had to make up for the delay this morning – and visited Humayun’s Tomb – the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Humayun. It was commissioned by Humayun’s first wife and chief consort, Empress Bega Begum – also known as Haji Begum – in 1569-70, designed by Persian architects chosen by her. It was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent and was also the first structure to use red sandstone at such a scale. The tomb was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and since then has undergone extensive restoration work.
We got an overview from our guide and then some free time to walk around and take photos.
Besides the main tomb enclosure of Humayun, several smaller monuments dot the pathway leading up to it from the main entrance in the West – including one that even pre-dates the main tomb itself by 20 years – it is the tomb complex of Isa Khan Niyazi, an Afghan noble in the Suri dynasty, who fought against the Mughals, constructed in 1547. This my favourite structure there.
The main tomb of the Emperor Humayun houses the graves of Empress Bega Begum, Hamida Begum and also Dara Shikoh, great-great-grandson of Humayun and son of the later Emperor Shah Jahan, as well as numerous other subsequent Mughals. Having visited the site already many times I nevertheless took a walk around again.
The monument represented a leap in Mughal architecture and together with its accomplished Charbagh garden – typical of Persian gardens, but never seen before in India – it set a precedent for subsequent Mughal architecture – also for future Mughal architecture of royal mausolea, which reached its zenith with the Taj Mahal at Agra.
Standing outside the boundary of the complex is the tomb known as Nila Burj – now known as Nila Gumbad or Blue Dome – so called because it carries striking blue glazed tiles. It was built by Abdul Rahim Khan-I-Khana for his servant Miyan Fahim who not only grew up with his sons, but later also died alongside one of them while fighting against the rebellion of Mughal general Mahabat Khan in 1625.
Nearby lies a tomb known as Nai-ka-Gumbad or Barber’s Tomb, belonging to a royal barber, which is datable to 1590, through an inscription found inside. Its proximity to the main tomb and the fact that it is the only other structure within the main tomb complex suggests its importance, however there are no inscriptions suggesting as to who is interred therein, the name Barber’s tomb is the local name of the structure, hence still in use.
On the way to our last stop the bus dropped me, the lady with the insured hand at her husband at Cygnuy Orthocare Hospital, because she wanted it x-rayed. Luckily, it was a rather quick affair in there. The reception was friendly and we only had to wait 5 min before called into the doctor’s office. He asked some questions – I had to translate … – and send her to X-ray next door. That was very fast done as well, but then 5 people pondered over the picture for a long time before we got called into another doctor’s office.
He looked at her hand and said – Well, it looks broken … Then he showed us the picture – of course we could not see anything on it being laymen … But at least there were no big bones broken, only something in the writs, apparently, was not right. He told her the little swelling she had needed to go down and then in 3 days he could operate. – Are you interested in operation? – NO! Is it necessary? Or can it wait 2 weeks until we get home? – Yes yes, it can wait! We put a plaster and give you fit-for-flight-paper and you are good! – Ok, then.
The plaster session was quick as well – 3 men worked on it and it was rather professional. She got a half plaster – only on the top of the arm and then bandaged. It took only a few minutes, because most of the plaster was pre-manufactured and only had to be soaked and then molded on the arm. A sling on and ready she was. Immediately she felt less pain.
With a prescription for pain medication and instructions to keep exercising the fingers often, we were released. The pharmacy was near reception and there they also had to pay the bill. Which was exorbitant … just kidding … a little less than € 100 for everything from diagnostic, X-ray to medication. And out we were after 1.5 hrs. The local Tour Agency had sent us a car and driver to take us back to the hotel.
The rest of the group in the meantime visited one of my favourite site in Delhi – Qutub Minar, the 2nd tallest minaret in the world made up of bricks. The minaret forms a part of the Qutab complex – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 73 m tall tapering tower has a 14 m base diameter reducing to 3 m at the top of the tower. It also has a spiral staircase of 379 steps – unfortunately it is not open to visitors. Qutab-Ud-Din-Aibak – founder of the Delhi Sultanate in the 13th century – started construction of the Qutub Minar’s first storey around 1192. In 1220 Aibak’s successor Shamsuddin Iltutmish completed a further 3 storeys. In 1369, a lightning strike destroyed the top storey. Firoz Shah Tughlaq replaced the damaged storey and added one more. Sher Shah Suri also added an entrance to this tower while he was ruling. The Minar is surrounded by several historically significant monuments of the Qutab complex, including Quwat-ul-Islam Mosque which was built at the same time as the Minar and the much older Iron Pillar of Delhi.
Guests usually get some free time to roam around and take photos. Since I had been here several times I normally just find a good spot to take photos of the airplanes flying over. Since the airport is relatively close and one of the runways seemingly aligns with the Qutub Minar, there were airplanes in short succession flying directly over it. Those made for a great photo.
The ride back to the airport was relatively long again in afternoon rush hour. Since we were in a car, we were good in time, though and reached Vivanta by Taj actually before the group on the bus. While I waited for the group I sorted out the seating arrangement for the group for dinner in the restaurant. Then it was only a short break before dinner – literally just a quick shower and change. Dinner was excellent as usual. I love the buffet in this hotel – it always has Thai curries on it amongst everything else …
Early sleep …
09.11.2019
This morning our Assam adventure would start. We had a 10:50 flight out and therefore had scheduled breakfast at 06:30, luggage pick up at 07:30 and transfer departure at 08:00. Our transfer agent and bus arrived on time. It was very smog-foggy this morning again and a little rainy.
At the Terminal entrance I lined up the guests by numbers according to the group ticket to help the security guard find their names easily. Nobody is allowed inside the airport terminal without a valid ticket and passport. This organized we passed quickly and could do the check in at the group counter. The airline staff was very helpful this time – some other times it was not so. On tours with less guests we were able to get A and B seats for everybody. Why? You ask … Because on the left you see the Himalayas when flying from Delhi to Assam! And who does not want to catch a glimpse of Mount Everest when there is the chance? This time I did not even ask, because for 24 guests it would be a problem. But I asked for me and got it granted.
On domestic flights with IndiGo there is only ever a 15 kg luggage allowance, but my company always booked an extra 5 kg per person to make up 20 kg. At least that had been booked and paid for by the local agency this time. Often before I had to pay the excess out of my pocket and then got reimbursed by the agency. That amounted usually to Rs 20000 minimum … so I always had to use my credit card …
No such problems today, though and the guy behind the counter also let us do the group count on the luggage. As it usually is, some guests have more, others have less and then it evens out, if they do a group check in.
The most hassle are always the questions about thinks that are not allowed in the check-in luggage. Everybody also has to sign a sticker that there is no power bank in the suitcase. That sticker they then stick to the suitcase. Lighters and matches are not even allowed in carry-on luggage. And do not dare take a coconut on the plane!
Everybody had to sign on a sticker that there is definitely no powerbank inside the check-in luggage. that lable got then put on the suitcase. Very important!
Security check was smooth as well – I had told everybody that there are no lighters allowed – neither in the check-in luggage nor in the cabin bag – and they would find everything. Sure enough, they picked one lady out – she had to get her bag screened maybe 3 times and the officer found – believe it or not – 5 lighters in her bag. She claimed she did not even know they were in the bag …
The flight was on time this morning and everybody made it to the gate unassisted by me. I had told them all – check your boarding pass for the time, check the displays for the gate – this is a silent airport! No announcements! Sometimes I feel like a kindergarden teacher … repeating over and over again … grown-ups should know themselves how to get on an airplane … not so our guests … they need to be reminded all the time … ultimately they have booked a tour with around the clock support …
The flight was on time and everybody made it as well. Last January I had the good fortune to see the Himalayas in clear sunshine and even made out Mt. Everest and Mt. Kanchenjunga. In February I was in an aisle seat with a screaming baby next to me … So I was happy this time – I had one of our guests next to me – No, I did not offer to swap seats … – and the Himalayas were visible if not totally clear.
Shortly before landing I could also see the Brahmaputra River below. Sometimes before, I had even made out Tezpur with its bridges and the mouth of the Kameng River, one of the major tributaries of the Brahmaputra. There is the 3015 m long Kalia Bohmora Bridge built in the 1980s and next to it the construction site of the new railway bridge.
The Brahmaputra River with its wide sandbanks looked very impressive from above. The sheer width of it is visible and astonishing.
We landed in time in Dibrughar. Our Excursion Manager Mohan already waited for us along with translater/tour guide Amit from Kolkatta. It was the first time I would not have to do all the translations by myself.
Luggage took a while to arrive and then one guest wanted to claim some damage on his suitcase. Well, I always travel – when on those tour assignments – with my oldest suitcase … That man had chosen his brand new suitcase and now there was a small nick in the canvas cover. He wanted to claim it with the airline. Oh well. Let’s go then. Mohan went with us in search of an airline official while the rest of the group waited for us. Once we found somebody he sent somebody else and that person had to get the papers first and eventually came out with a clipboard and a form. – This is only a minor damage. We can give you Rs 300 final compensation! – This is not enough! This suitcase was Rs 64000! – Sir, this is only a minor damage. Rs 300 is the only thing I can offer you! You can get it right here in cash. – Hmm …. Ok then …. But Rs 300 is less then € 4 …..
That sorted we collected the group and went out to find the busses. We got our official Assam welcome – a welcome gamusa – the Assam shawl which is of great significance for the people of Assam.
The Gamusa is generally a white rectangular piece of cloth with primarily a red border on 3 sides and red woven motifs on the 4th. Although cotton yarn is the most common material for making gamosas, there are special occasion ones made from silk. Literally translated, Gamosa means “something to wipe the body with” – Ga=body, musa=to wipe – however, interpreting the word gamosa as the body-wiping towel is misleading. The word gamosa is derived from the Kamrupi word gamsaw, the cloth is used to cover the altar at the prayer hall or cover the scriptures. An object of reverence is never placed on the bare ground, but always on a gamusa.
Though it may be used daily to wipe the body after a bath – an act of purification – the use is not restricted to this. It is used by the farmer as a waistcloth (tongali) or a loincloth (suriya). A Bihu dancer wraps it around the head with a fluffy knot. It is hung around the neck at the prayer hall and was thrown over the shoulder in the past to signify social status. And guests are welcomed with the offering of a gamusa and tamul (betel nut) – luckily they always skip the betel nut offering for us – and elders are offered gamusas – referred to as bihuwaan in this case – during Bihu Festival. One can therefore, very well say, that the gamusa symbolizes the indigenous life and culture of Assam.
Our luggage got loaded into 3 14-seater midi busses and the guests piled it. We had to drive to Neamati Ghat which would take us with lunch break probably 5 hrs. The road was narrow – no autobahn-like highways like around Delhi here! Traffic was as usual and some guests had not yet gotten used to it …
For our included lunch we stopped at a local hotel restaurant. The food was good and plentiful and the beer was cold and cheap. The toilets reasonably clean. One day I shall write a story about all types of facilities I encounter during my travels …
The bus ride led along the country road past tea plantations and small villages. We had arrived in Assam! Tea platations as far as you can see!
We took a tea break for sunset – OK, the tea break we took because there was a suitable restaurant with facilities and it happened to be sunset time – and reached Neamati Ghat in the dark around 19:15. ABN CHARAIDEW II was docked on the sandy bank and we were lead down the embankment by the crew holding flashlights.
It was the 4th time I would do this cruise this year and the 3rd time on the brandnew ABN CHARAIDEW II. I had done 2 cruises on the old ABN CHARAIDEW before that already. The old ship had been the first ever passenger cruise ship to work on the Indian rivers in 2004. This January we did the very last cruise with that ship. I will miss it. It was small and cosy. There were hot water bottles in our beds every night – because there was no heating on the ship and winter nights are cold – and the generators got turned off by 23:00 – that meant absolute silence during the night – well, you could hear the person snoring 3 cabins over, though … The cabins were so small, that nobody ever spent much time there other than to sleep. Everybody always met in the Salon or on the Sundeck.
The new ship is more beautiful and spacious than the old ship, though. I was lucky enough again to get a cabin on the upper deck. Basically I get whatever is left over. My cabin was huge and beautiful – similar to the cabins on the ABN RAJMAHAL which we cruise on on the Ganges River.
Not much time to settle in, though … Quick quick! Come down to do tomorrow’s program and dinner is ready as well! – It had been a long day travelling and everybody was ready for dinner. The program was done quickly – advanced preparation is key! We had our dinner and a short basic information session and briefing for the next day after dessert.
Then it was an early night for everybody.
