05.12.2020
93 km Porto Moniz – Paul da Serra – Fajã dos Padres – Funchal
Leaving Porto Moniz I drove along the ER 101 West and passed Santa where the road turned South. A few kilometers on I came by the turn off for Paul da Serra. The ER 110 was leading up to the plateau and over to Boca da Encumeada. It was a bit like a déjà vu … the higher the road wound the foggier it got … and misty cows appeared walking the road …
It was not raining, though. Sort of half way up the mountain I stopped for the first geocache of the day. I parked the car by the road side – I had not encountered any other cars yet. The GPS marker was only some 20 m off the road towards the mountainous side. Off I went into the rainforest – well, the typical Laurel forest feeling like a rainforest. Though it was not raining, the trees were wet and dripping. A muddy path led through the bushes up to the side of the mountain. Then I stood in front of a tunnel entrance … What? … The GPS marker pointed inside the tunnel … A tunnel? … WTF … I had to read the listing again … Maybe I should have done it before …
The tunnel had been built for the purpose of obtaining water from a spring inside the mountain. It was also used for many years by the pirates when they brought haul to sell in Funchal and Porto Moniz. I hoped I did not have to go too far in … The GPS marker said 8 m … in the tunnel it would not be working … and I did not have a flashlight … The container was supposed to be hidden in a hole in the wall … I supposed in the tunnel wall …
Using the flashlight mode of my mobile phone which was not very strong I went in … looking in every crack and hole in the wall … after maybe 3 m … finding nothing … I turned around … too scary … But I wanted to find that box … it could not be that hard … in again … probably 6 m … checking the tunnel walls in the in the sparse glow of the flashlight … nothing … it was getting too dark the deeper in I got … Damn …
It could not be that difficult to find that box … so I went in again … hopefully my mobile battery would hold … on the 3rd try I walked briskly in the first bit and then started searching the walls again … and indeed … approx 10 m in I finally found the funny box in a large crack in the wall!
It was a really cool piggy box. Unfortunately the logbook was completely wet and my fancy geo pen almost did not work on the wet paper. Nevertheless I managed and stored Miss Piggy back in the crack in the tunnel wall. When logging online I gave a favorite point, of course – it was a great cache and I would not have found that tunnel otherwise.
Walking back to the car downhill on the muddy path was somewhat complicated, but I managed without landing in a puddle. I got back in and kept driving up the road in the increasing fog.
And it kept getting thicker, but I stopped at a – supposedly – viewpoint to find another secret box. It was not raining yet, only really misty. Absolutely no view whatsoever. It was a short hike into the rainy forest to look for that box.
I had come already closer to the plateau at approx 1000 m altitude and more shrubs than trees were up here. There were several flowering Ulex Europaeus – known as Common Gorse, Furze or Whin. The stems are green, with the shoots and leaves modified into green 1-3 cm long spines. The small flowers are yellow and apparently they are coconut-scented … I could not smell anything in this weather, though …
To find the cache I had to clamper down a muddy path into the forest beside the viewpoint. The GPS signal was jumping around again and the hint for the location was – as usual – under rocks … very funny … I searched in a considerable radius under every rock there was, stuck my hand in tree stumps and soon I was all wet and muddy. The forest was beautiful, though.
Nevermind, I gave up looking for the box and made my way back out of the shrubs towards the car. Just when I scrambled up the last muddy bit, my seasoned geocacher eyes caught something by the side of the path near a bush … some unnaturally piled up rocks … and there it was … success #2 today!
The next geocache was only a couple of kilometers up the road. Once more the hint was … can you guess? … Bingo! … under rocks … From the parking the GPS marker was less than 50 m away … in the bushes … It had started drizzling … I had to do some scouting out to find some sort of path through the heather thicket that brought me closer to the final coordinates.
Searching for a good 10 min … in the end the geocacher instinct led me to the right set of rocks once more. I did find the container and the dry logbook! Strike #3 today! Only there was nothing of the promised view …
Quickly I made my way back to the car. The rain started to get heavier … it was getting uncomfortable in the bushes.
The road sort of followed the rim of the plateau for the longest time … theoretically there should have been a view of some sort on my right. But it was just fog and rain now … Where was the sunshine from yesterday? The cows did not seem to mind the weather, though. There was a regular cow traffic jam on 1300 m altitude …
Up on the plateau it was pouring down with rain now. It was miserable. Still I stopped for another secret box … it was highly regarded, but had a terrain rating of 3.5. I was not sure if I would be able to get it in this weather. The box was hidden on top of a viewpoint overlooking Rabaçal Nature Resere which is part of the UNESCO recognized Laurisilva of Madeira.
It is said to be an area of intense natural beauty, brimming with waterfalls and unique flora and plant life. The 25 Fontes Levada is one of the most popular Levada hikes on the island. Yesterday I did not have the time to stop here – Whales were waiting for me – and today … there was absolutely nothing to see …
I did go out into the downpour to have a look at the location of the geocache. But the stairs to ascent this concrete structure were kind of tricky and all wet and slippery … with nothing to grab hold onto … all alone I was not going to attempt to climb this thing. But I looked at it … And no, I did not log it!
In no time I was back in the car and kept driving towards the crossroads in the center of Paul da Serra. It was pouring cats and dogs now. The complete opposite weather from yesterday when I had been so lucky to see the plateau in sunshine and blue sky.
Reaching the crossroads I stopped by the side of the road and contemplated what to do now. There was no point hanging around up here in this weather. The only road I had not driven yet was the ER 110 towards Boca da Encumeada … So off I went …
The rain was not letting up. I kept on driving, but watching the outside temperature closely. It dropped to 3.5°C … hopefully it would not start snow-raining again! The last thing I needed was snow slush up here … But I only got maybe 3 km further than I drove this way yesterday. Then there was a big sign – Cul-de-sac! No through-road. Obviously that tunnel near the pass was still closed … There was no point in going on to see how far the road was open in this weather, so I turned around and drove the long straight road back to the crossroads. There was not yet as much water on the road like the first time I had come up here, but it looked as if it was getting there …
Going down the ER 209 towards the South coast and Canhas was my only option now. Once the road left the plateau and descended towards the South coast the rain subsided. My favourite part of the road here was the Eucalyptus forest. I opened the window a bit to be able to smell it. An amazing Eucalyptic scent hung in the forest.
Beautiful huge Euycalyptus trees were covering this side of the mountain and lining the road. The ecoregion’s native Laurisilva forests have been greatly reduced in extent and continue to recover, currently covering about 16 % of Madeira. Native timber was heavily exploited over long period of time, beginning shortly after colonization in the 15th century. Clearance for agriculture and to a lesser extent for road building and urbanization, had also contributed to reduction of the natural vegetation cover. Reforestation was done with non-native species like Eucalyptus Globulus and those are now widespread at mid-altitudes.
By now the weather had changed completely. Already in the Eucalytus forest the sun had been coming through. Now the sky was blue over the coast and every now and then a rainbow showed up towards the mountains. When I reached the ER 222 road – the old road traversing the cliffside without tunnels – I turned East. I wanted to grab some geocaches I had missed before.
Enjoying the nice weather with the windows rolled down, I stopped for a secret box by the side of the road above Ponta do Sol. I parked the car behind another car and walked some 50 m ahead to quickly search de container and sign the logbook. Walking back to the car I saw there was a lady sitting in the other car and she sure watched me curiously … I waved Hello and got in my car and going.
The drive along the coast was as pleasant as the last time a few days ago. Mind you I drove here already on my first day on the island … The car already knew the road and I could enjoy the scenery. Grey clouds hung over the mountains, but the valleys, Banana plantations and the orange roofs of the whitewashed houses were gleaming in the sunlight.
Above Ribeira Brava was another secret box hidden by the road side. I could easily park and quickly find it at the viewpoint next to a vineyard. It was a nice view down to the town of Ribeira Brava and the coast.
I passed Ribeira Brava once more, but stayed on the ER 222 along the coast. In Campanário I turned of in search of some geocaches. The first one was above the village in a small park with a garden and a great view framed by many red-flowering Sword Aloe. This village owes its name to an islet, which is situated along the coast and at the time of the discoveries it was in the shape of a bell tower or rather a church steeple – hence the name Campanário which means just that.
Campanário is a verdant village with a splendid view over the sea and a strong agricultural tradition, formerly known as granary of the conquerors for having been an important center of grains exported to the coasts of North Africa in the Age of the Discoveries. The settlement was established in 1556. I found the secret box quickly and enjoyed the view over the village. Far below the expressway was snaking through the valley. I had admired it from the other side of the valley the other day.
The current church was built in 1963 to replace the previous church which was dated at 1683 – a date most probably assigned to its reconstruction since there is reference to a church already in place in 1677. It had been called Igreja de São Brás and its patron is São Braz, patron of wild animals and much sought after for blessings to those suffering from throat diseases.
Having been successful here, I took the road down into the valley below the expressway to collect data for an Earth Cache dedicated to that little islet which gave its name to the village. A small monument – a replica of the islet – had been erected in front of the village’s sports club on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of the settlement.
I had to collect some data here and then drive to another viewpoint to taken a photo of the actual islet. Several locations were given in the listing … I had passed most of them … that teaches me again to read the listings beforehand and make a proper plan … But there was one marker further down the slope in a residential area and I drove there. The road was right below the expressway which was leading over a very high double bridge. It was really narrow and steep and ended at some sort of viewpoint.
The name Campanário – Belfry – originated when the discoverers arrived on Madeira Island. When passing Cabo Girão they saw an islet with 2 high rocky rises characteristic of a belfry – so they gave the name to the region Campanário. Over the years, the erosion caused by the sea waves and the wind destroyed part of the islet, giving it another image, thus differing from that seen by the island’s discoverers. Its height however is still approx 15 m.
The small viewing platform – which was not really an official viewpoint to be honest – was surrounded by Opuntia Ficus-Indica – Prickly Pear – a species of cactus that has long been a domesticated crop plant grown in agricultural economies throughout arid and semiarid parts of the world. Likely having originated in Mexico, it is the most widespread and most commercially important cactus. I had seen those in various parts of the world – and eaten the fruit – most memorable was the sighting on my Galapagos cruise in 2016.
Not far from that spot there was also an actual box hidden … well it was a good kilometer back up the road. I drove over there, parked the car and went on a short hike. It was the start of the hiking path down to Calhau da Lapa right at the bottom of the cliff. I was definitely not climbing down there, though. But I took a short walk to the viewpoint … and it was a pretty viewpoint!
Not only was it beautifully decorated, but it also had a great view over to Fajã dos Padres … at this point I did not know yet, that I would visit there next …
The secret box was hidden in the wall to the side of the viewpoint, I just had to wait until 2 ambitious hikers had finished taking their photos and gotten on their way. Then it was a quick find and sign.
Leaving here it was only a few hundred meters to the expressway and I rode along there for one exit – less than 2 km – before I got off again at Quinta Grande. Since I had no plan and was just hopping from geocache to geocache, it was only logic that I would go to Fajã dos Padres. A narrow side road lead to the upper station of a cable car! I had been told there are many cable cars on Madeira and I should take at least one spectacular one! The one in Funchal did not appeal to me, but here it looked interesting.
At the end of the road was a very limited parking lot and it was packed … OK, only maybe 5 cars fit there … so I had to turned around and then parked a couple hundred meters up the road. Prepping myself for an outing I grabbed my camera bag and jackets … if that cable car was going I was going and I hoped there was a restaurant down there to have lunch. The secret box that was hidden somewhere on that parking space by the cable car station I did not find now … to be honest I did not really look for it … I was distracted by the cable car and the view … First I took a look over the railing …
… and I was stunned! What a view! 300 m down at the bottom of a huge cliff I could see Fajã dos Padres located. Fajã is Portuguese for a landfall at the base of a cliff forming a beach-like landing and Padres means priests – as this landfall once belonged to priests of the Society of Jesus. It was a stunning view down the coast – and I could also see the tiny islet of Campanário I had photographed for that Earth Cache before.
There was no doubt I was going on that cable car! It was open 10:00 – 18:00, so I had plenty of time. At the ticket window I rechecked the timing and was assured, the last ride up was at 18:00 – I would not miss it! A return ticket was € 10 – a steep price, but well. There were only return tickets … I think there was a possible hiking trail from Campanário which is only really safe at low tide if at all … at least not for someone in average form like me. Frankly, I was never going to hike something like that … I got on that cable car! The ticket man also confirmed that there was a restaurant below and it was open. Sounded like a great lunch opportunity.
The Teleférico had 2 cabins only – one was up and one was down. Only one staff was manning the controls at the upper station. He told me, when I wanted to come back up – of course before 18:00! – I should ring the bell. OoooKkaaaayyyy. I shall do that!
That spectacular cable car was an incredible access to an otherwise deserted beach location – the descend could be experienced in a short 2.5 min downward travel. Set in a remote cove, this Fajã apparently produces the best Malvasia wine on the island and until 1998 – when a panoramic elevator was installed – it could only be accessed from the sea. Nowadays, this elevator is mainly used to transport goods or when the weather conditions are not favourable for the modern panoramic cable car which was installed in 2016 and became the main way to descend to the shore.
I tremendously enjoyed the almost vertical ride down. I had the cabin all to myself, but facemask was nevertheless mandatory. Oh well … I kept my lemony mask on and took a photo anyway. When I posted it, a friend commented, she could not put a like on it because the mask was disturbing … Well, tough shit … I have no problems with the mask. If it is the tool that lets me travel, I use it. Even if I sit all by myself in a cable car cabin … for 2.5 min … getting off I was allowed to take the mask off again …
The lower station was in the middle of tropical orchards. Apart from the wine culture, the area has excellent conditions for the cultivation of Papaya, Mango, Avocado, Banana and other exotic fruit such as Passion Fruit and Guava. Dirt tracks and walking paths were leading through fruit plantations, but everywhere were signs – Privado! Não passar / No passing! Passagem proibida! – The only way publicly accessible was the one to the restaurant … The € 10 were basically the entrance fee for the Fajã restaurant.
Fajã is a Portuguese-language term of obscure origin designating supratidal talus-platform geology constructed from landslides or lava flows, that are relatively common coastal features, occurring on the bottom of cliffs. Although they exist throughout the world, they are distinct features of the islands of the Azores and Madeira. The term also designates a flat land of small extension, generally located by the sea and cultivable, formed of materials detached from the cliffs.
Fajã dos Padres is today a small secluded tourist resort offering a restaurant, swimming and fishing facilities, a guesthouse for short and long stays and amazing sea and mountain views. Organic vegetable gardens supply all the produce for the restaurant and even for some hotels nearby. Approx 1 ha is occupied by wine of the Malvasia Candida grape, 2 ha by Mango trees of over 20 different varieties, 1.5 ha are Banana plantation and 1 ha with Avocado trees. I did not notice the Avocado trees, but on the way to the restaurant was an extensive Banana plantation. I like Banana plantations in sunshine …
It was only a short walk of maybe half a kilometer to the end of the Fajã where the restaurant was located right by the beach below the old panoramic elevator and the new upper cable car station. The place was beautiful and more busy than any of the restaurants I had been so far on the island. Obviously it was a popular Saturday lunch spot. I found a nice table right by the beach away from the other customers. The sun was out and it was really hot. I soaked up the sun and the splendid view.
Splurging in fresh orange juice and a glass of wine, I ordered Limpets – what else?! – for starters. Of course they came grilled in garlic butter on a red-hot cast iron skillet and tasted just as great as they looked! Especially sitting in the sun by the beach with that view and glass of wine … and not a care in th world.
Gonna put the world away for a minute
Pretend I don’t live in it
Sunshine gonna wash my blues away
Got the blue sky breeze blowin’ wind through my hair
Only worry in the world
Is the tide gonna reach my chair
Knee deep by Zac Brown
My main course was Polvo à Lagareiro – a classic Portuguese Octopus dish. I love Octopus! Lagareiro refers to a cooking style with numerous varieties, but it usually ends in dressing grilled or roasted fish or seafood with olive oil – a lagareiro is the owner of an olive oil press. In this case, octopus was boiled, then cut into pieces, grilled and then doused with olive oil.
There are great myths about the tenderness of the fresh Octopus and how not to get it to taste like rubber. From boiling it in coke to beat it to death with a hammer – the tricks are apparently numerous. My Octopus today came swimming in olive oil and was very nice and tender. It was not as good as the grilled Octopus I had the other day in Porto da Cruz, but it was nevertheless delicious.
Treating myself to another glass of wine I sat soaking up the sun and the ocean breeze. This was vacation!
Looking at the map I saw there was another secret box hidden at the other end of the Fajã. Contemplating what to do I decided, I would ignore some signs and just walk there. If really somebody would stop me, I could always pretend I did not understand anything …
For now a dark cloud moved over the beach and it started to drizzle. Fortunately it was only a tiny bit and stopped after a few minutes. I had my espresso and then went exploring.
They had a small pier and beach set up for the summer behind the restaurant. It was deserted now in off season. There was an excursion or fishing boat as well. It was up on drydock now, though. I strolled along the fruit plantations towards the cable car station.
Not only red-flowering Sword Aloe were lining the path, but also huge bushes of Strelitza – the Bird of Paradise Flower. The plant can grow to 2 m tall with large, strong leaves 25-70 cm long and 10-30 cm broad. The leaves are evergreen and arranged in ranks, making a fan-shaped crown. The flowers stand above the foliage at the tips of long stalks.
The hard, beak-like sheath from which the flower emerges is termed the spathe. This is placed perpendicular to the stem, which gives it the appearance of a bird’s head and beak – it makes a durable perch for holding the sunbirds which pollinate the flowers. The flowers, which emerge one at a time from the spathe, consist of brilliant orange sepals and purplish-blue or white petals. Two of the blue or white petals are joined together to form an arrow-like nectary. When the sunbirds sit to drink the nectar, the petals open to cover their feet in pollen.
I ignored the Não passar / No passing! Passagem proibida! signs and just walked along the tracks through the fruit plantation. My GPS pointed to the end of the vineyard to a waterfall. From there I had a wonderful view along the coast towards that Campanário Islet I had taken photos of for an Earth Cache earlier.
The listing stated the water fall was usually dry … not today. The rain of the last week had filled it up and a rather substantial amount of water came down the cliff.
The area looked as if there had been much much more water recently as well. My GPS was not working properly so close to the cliff and I had to look everywhere for that secret box … without success … I did not find it … I did a photolog since I had come here and paid entrance fee …
Strolling back I came by some Mango trees. It was not Mango season at the moment, but I spotted 2 large red Mangos in one of the trees. No, I did not pick them! I just took a photo of them. I like Mango … India is one of the largest Mango growing areas followed by Thailand, the Philippines and Pakistan. Brazil, parts of Africa, Israel, Central America and Australia are important producers of Mangoes. Thee Mangoes from Madeira are however just enough for the Portuguese and their vacationers. Mango season on Madeira was over already, unfortunately.
It was not far back to the cable car station and I did not meet anybody on the way. The cable station was not manned. The gondola was there, but it was locked. A sign stated to ring the bell for service. So I pushed the button and a loud signal sounded.
Only seconds later the station came alive … The doors of the gondola opened and – mask on – I got in. The ride was another 2.5 min of pure joy almost vertically going up the cliff. I had a great view of the restaurant by the beach and could even make out the table I had occupied earlier.
Reaching the upper station I got out and had not forgotten about the geocache hidden in front of the station. The hint stated – hole in the wall – and as I walked out of the cable car I could already see the hiding place from afar. I most probably had just the wrong perspective before. Now it was a very quick find. I did not check if the ticket man saw what I was doing, but I assume he might know the box was there.
My car was still where I had left it and soon I was on the go again. I stayed on the side roads towards Cabo Girão. I had visited the Skywalk already last week, but on the way there was another geocache which I wanted to find. The terrain rating was 3 and the listing suggested not to attempt this cache in rainy weather. Well, it was not rainy anymore. I parked the car by the roadside. The location was just short of 100 m in the young Eucalyptus forest. It was an easy find – for once the spoiler photo was correct – without it I would not have found it under a bush.
There was supposed to be a good view towards Cabo Girão Skywalk, but the trees had grown and with the slightly muddy ground I did not dare walk further to the cliff. I could see all the way down to Funchal, though.
Now it was time to make my way to my next hotel. I took the shortest way to the VR 1 expressway and then followed it to Funchal. The views along the road were as usual spectacular and I could even spot the odd rainbow over the coast.
Not far on, at Santa Rita I exited. Less than a kilometer on was Orca Praia Hotel. It was located right at the cliff and the driveway was very steep down. Lucky I found a parking spot on a sort of terrace where I could easily put the car in. I left most of my stuff in the car and went for check-in. It was the first hotel where they checked temperatures at check-in. They had very hightech camera temperature sensors that talked back. I was 36.44°C hot … Temperature in normal range … the machine told me.
Check-in was slow. The lady found my name, but not my booking where it stayed that I had paid. I had to forward her my booking confirmation via e-mail and then it still took forever … She believed me that I had arrived on 24.11. without checking, though. While waiting I admired the Christmas decoration in the lobby.
Orca Praia is a modern hotel in a privileged location overlooking the mixed black sand and pebble beach called Praia do Areeiro and is set amphitheatre like on the cliff by the ocean. I had booked on booking and had chosen the cheapest option … 3 nights for only € 108 including breakfast – room type chosen by the property. I had checked before – they only have ocean view rooms! That option was a good 30% cheaper than if I had picked ocean view directly. The surprise would be, what room they chose for me.
Reception was on level 0 and the room I was given was on level -7. I had to take the elevator those 7 floors down. The view from the elevator lobby was already awesome. Sunset was coming up quickly.
My room was #714 and when I walked in I was stunned! It was huge and had an even huger balcony facing directly Southwest with an incredible ocean view. It was very modern and new. I could not believe my luck! I like the new normality with such low prices!
It was 17:00 now and without much ado went to get my suitcase and stuff from the car. The lady at reception had given me a parking ticket to put behind the windshield. I had to take the elevator 7 floors up again and then trek up the steep driveway to my car. The suitcase rolled down almost by itself. It got thoroughly disinfected at the entrance before I could roll it into the lobby. That was a first on Madeira, too. Nobody had ever disinfected my luggage before.
In my room I mixed myself a drink and then sat on the balcony taking in the sunset. It was beautiful today and I had an unobstructed view over the ocean. I could not get enough of it and took so many photos.
Sorting and posting photos as usual, I watched some TV later and then slept early.
06.12.2020
68 km Funchal – Santo António Da Serra – Funchal
I had slept well and got up early. The weather looked great outside and I opened the balcony doors wide. For breakfast I had the early slot 07:30 – 08:30 here as well. I went a little late. The restaurant was at level -9 and I took the stairs. I arrived approx 07:45 and it was really busy. They had a different system here again. First was the temperature check at the entrance. It worked perfect with the wrist.
As a single person I got seated in the center … I would have preferred a window seat, but oh well. There was quite a line up at the buffet, however I could not wait as more and more guests arrived. It was a large restaurant as well. So I lined up at the well-stocked buffet. I had to point what I wanted and one of several waiters put it on plates for me. Juices and coffee were at a separate buffet. They did not have fresh juices, but the coffee was good.
I took my fruit plate back to my room and sat on the balcony in the sun, enjoying the blue sky and the view and catching up on my journal. I had a plan today – Really?? – and at 09:00 I got started. I was going to meet my friends Christian & George for the Sunday market in Santo António Da Serra at 11:00/11:30. On the way there I wanted to stop at Monte.
For a few kilometer I took the VR 1 expressway and then turned off towards Monte on the ER 103. At the Rotunda da Fundoa in São Roque I stopped for the first hidden box of the day. It was magnetic behind a street sign and I located it quickly. Once more the logbook was soaking wet and my fancy geo pen had to work magic to sign.
Following the road to Monte there was another geocache near a viewpoint by the roadside. When I had passed here before the parking had been always packed. But on a Sunday morning there was not a single car there and I quickly stopped to find the secret box. It was a no-brainer find and after I signed the logbook, I of course also took in the beautiful view over Funchal below.
Before continuing I doted on a huge bush of Pink Hibiscus in bloom – Bumblebees were humming around the flowers. I love watching those. And they sure were busy in the beautiful sunshine today.
In Monte I wanted to have a look at the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte – the Church of Our Lady of Monte. I had passed it before and never stopped, but though it looked interesting. I found a huge and very empty parking lot and then walked from there through the Parque do Monte up to the church.
Long stairs of the same interesting kind I had seen a couple of days ago in Porto Moniz let up. I like those rounded stairs and marched them up to the church.
When I had seen – accidentally because there was a geocache close by – the statue of Sissi, the Empress Elisabeth of Austria, in Funchal, a friend from Austria had commented on my post, if I also had paid Emperor Charles I. of Austria a visit. I had no idea what she was talking about, so I researched …
I found out that in 1921 after the second failed attempt to reclaim the throne of Hungary, Charles and his wife Zita were arrested. A few weeks later they arrived at their final exile, the Portuguese island of Madeira, which the Council of Allied Powers had agreed on because it was isolated in the Atlantic Ocean and easily guarded. They lived first at Funchal and later moved to Quinta do Monte. Charles did not leave Madeira. He died of respiratory failure after he had suffered severe pneumonia in April 1922. His remains – except for his heart – are still on the island, resting in state in a chapel devoted to the Emperor here in the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte – in spite of several attempts to move them to the Habsburg Crypt in Vienna. His heart and the heart of his wife are entombed in Muri Abbey, Switzerland.
In 1470 a first chapel dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Encarnação was built on this site by Adão Gonçalves Ferreira, the first man born on Madeira. The current church Nossa Senhora do Monte is a Catholic pilgrimage church for which the first stone was laid in 1741. Since an earthquake destroyed the completed new building in 1748, it could not be consecrated until 1818. A flight of stairs leads to 3 archways that lead to the entrance portal. The main nave is flanked by 2 bell towers. The edges and windows of the church still show the unplastered dark tuff stone.
I had tried to find out if the church was open, because since I was here I wanted to see the inside as well. I wanted to report to my friend I had paid this visit. All websites I consulted, stated that the church is open … but it was not … oh well … I walked around the entire building … all doors locked … no people around … no sound to be heard from the inside … and that on a Sunday … strange …
In the park there was a marker for a Multi Cache with several stages. Already on the way up to the church I had collected a few numbers to eventually calculate the final coordinates. The last few details were quickly found. I sat on a bench to calculate the final – the location looked plausible and I walked the couple of hundred meters over to the other side of the park. And indeed, I found the final box and could sign the logbook! Success! Multi Caches are not my favourites, though …
Briskly I walked back to the car now … I had dawdled away too much time. I needed to get to Santo António Da Serra in time. From up here the shortest way was via Poiso – the weather looked great and hopefully I would not have a problem going over the pass. I did not have the time to take the long way around along the coast again.
As I was coming further up the mountain the weather changed … as sunny as it had been so far as quickly I reached the clouds and it got misty. Passing the junction at Poiso it was only 6°C and raining … less than 20 min before I was walking in Monte with almost 20°C … Of course I did not pass Poiso without checking if the road to Pico do Arieiro was open! And it was! … It had been closed every time I had passed here before … Oh … I was tempted … But no! I had a date and was not dressed for hiking up in the mountains either. So instead of turning left up the mountain I did turn right down to Santo António Da Serra.
The rain did not let up … I was devastated … it had been so beautiful on the South coast this morning and now it was pouring buckets … good thing I had brought both of my jackets … Against all odds I was arriving at Santo da Serra Golf Club well ahead of time. I did a drive by and a little detour and turned around at some point to look for one secret box right opposite the entrance gate of the golf club. It was a quick find, but it was raining and the logbook was so soaking wet that there was no point in even taking it out of the bag to try and sign it. So photolog …
We had agreed to meet in the Golf Club and Christian had said they would be there around 11:00. So hoping I was at the right spot I drove through the gate around 11:10 and parked the car. In the rain I ran across to the entrance and had a look around the club house … no Christian & George … Well, considering the weather and them living here they might be delayed and not as punctual as me … or I might be at the wrong spot … I sent a message, but did not receive an answer, which probably meant Christian was driving and not checking his phone. No problem, I went back to the car and waited there. In the parking lot I would see them arriving first. Sure enough they pulled in only minutes later …
It was great see them again after our dinner date in the beginning of the week. Quickly we went in the club house, because it was still raining and it was quite cold. We were going to meet a friend of George. He waited already inside. When we got introduced that guy looked at me and he said – I met you! In Porto Moniz! You were in the natural pools! – Haha! Yes, I remember you! Madeira is small! … He was the tourist I had talked to when walking back to my hotel after my swim. His name was Len.
Christian had brought us here to show us the famous view from the golf green towards Ponta de São Lourenço, the easternmost point of the island. Unfortunately, today there was absolutely nothing to see. We could barely guess the extend of the golf green … It did look as if the coast was sunny below the clouds, though.
We had coffee and very good orange cake in the club house and plenty to chat. George and Len had not seen each other in some 15 years or so. And I could chew Christian’s ear off forever anyway.
The clubhouse was not really heated – in fact it was pretty cold in there – eventhough there was a fire going in the only fireplace. So Christian treated us to a Lumumba – hot cocolate with rum! That warmed me right through, before we were going out to visit the Sunday market in the village.
On the way out we admired the pretty Christmas decoration in the club house. They had not spared any expense or effort and set up a complete Christmas crib.
Santo António da Serra has a population of approx 1600. Its name originated from the local adoration of Saint Anthony and is usually shortened to Santo da Serra in conversation. Settlement of this region happened late, owing to most settlers’ preference for coastal lands rather than the rugged interior. It is likely to have occurred during the 16th century.
Every Sunday there is market here in Santo António Da Serra. Len and me left our cars at the golf club and Christian drove us to the center of the village where the Sunday market was already in full swing when we arrived. It was still raining, but nevertheless the place was packed.
One section for the covered market was filled with house hold items, clothes and such things. But the more interesting part was the farmers’ market on the other side of the road. Good thing it was covered …
This was not a touristy market like the Mercado dos Lavradores in Funchal. So the fruits were not at all set up in pretty pyramids and polished to shine, but rather came straight off the farms and sat in crates. All seasonal fruits and vegetables were on offer.
I bought 2 big Monstera Deliciosa fruits to take home. Here one fruit was € 1.50 while in Funchal they wanted for the same € 9.50! They still had to ripen. It took almost 2 more weeks before we could eat them at home. I mixed them with Rum into a Spiked Smoothy – it was good! Tasted indeed like an Ananas-Banana-Shake.
I spotted a very strange thing they sold. Nobody knew what it was, so I took a photo and researched it later. It was Madre de Louro – Laurobasidium Lauri – a fungus found in Europe and first described by W. Jülich in 1982. It causes tongue- to club-shaped growths on Laurus Azorica – the Azores Laurel or Macaronesian Laurel – and can be found on Laurel trees in shady Laurel forests on the Canary Islands, Madeira and the Azores. Apparently this fungus was first thought to be aerial roots of the Laurel tree, only in the end of the 20th century it was found out that it was indeed a parasitic fungus that attacks the Laurel and grows irregularly around the tree at different heights. I could not find anything about it being poisonous or edible … but they sold it in the market, so I assume people eat it.
But people do not just come to the Sunday market to buy vegetables and flowers, they also came here to drink Poncha and eat. Our priority to start with was drinking Poncha! Poncha is Madeira’s traditional drink made with sugar cane brandy, honey and lemon. According to some theories – and there are several – the poncha originated in India, where it was known as the Pãnch. It is believed that the Poncha was first tried outside India by the English on Madeira in the 18th century.
I had tried Poncha before, of course. But it is much better enjoyed in the best company! There were several Poncha stalls in the market, but of course my friends had their favourite spots. We started our Poncha marathon at the first little hole-in-the-wall Poncha bar. Christian & George treated us tourists to the first round of traditional Lemon Poncha including local snacks – which I forgot what they were, but they were good. And we talked and talked and talked … with no end …
That little bar also sold snacks with the drinks. And it was such a local thing that they grilled sausages on those tiny ceramic … grills … if it could be even called like that … with fuel paste beneath it. Absolutely hilarious! And they were busy.
Of course we did not stick to only one spot. We moved. On the way to our next watering hole we passed one of the flower stalls. Orchids were for sale – especially the beautiful Cypripedium Calceolus – Lady’s-Slipper Orchid. But what was most interesting were the various different kinds of Protea. Christian wanted to buy a huge bunch of them for their apartment. Here they were less expensive than in the city and sold out quickly.
Protea is both the botanical name and the English common name of a South African flowering plant – sometimes it is also called Sugarbushe – in Afrikaans Suikerbos. The Protea is a very common flower in Madeira, I had spotted them numerous times around the island. It was named in 1735 by Carl Linnaeus, possibly after the Greek god Proteus, who could change his form at will, possibly because the plants have such a wide variety of forms. Proteas cultivation on Madeira island began in the early 1970s. Several varieties were sown with seeds from South Africa. Despite being far from the areas where they originate, Madeira has very favourable growing conditions for them. Proteas are currently cultivated in over 20 countries. Cultivation is however restricted to Mediterranean and subtropical climates.
They sold saplings of Protea here and I bought 2 for € 5 each to take home. They would fit in my suitcase. I would put them in a pot at home and see … Unfortunately I have to report, that they may not have survived. It might be, that I forgot to water them over the Christmas holidays and now they look really dead … I have not given up hope yet however and keep watering them … Maybe they just are in hibernation …
Christian had promised the next Poncha trough would be even better than the first one and they would have Tamarillo Poncha there. Indeed that place was even smaller than the first one, but as busy. The moment Christian had said, over there they have Tree Tomato Poncha, I was all for it. I had seen the fruits in the market in Funchal last week, but mostly it reminded me of my assignment tour of Ecuador in 2016, when we had encountered Tree Tomato almost every day. I ordered in a perfect mix of Spanish, Portuguese and French … The guy understood me …
With the second Poncha the spirits lifted even more and we had so much to chat about … you know I can talk a mile a minute. We had a lot of fun. And then a couple of Christian & George’s friends joined us – I forgot their names, but shall call them the Pilot & his wife – no offense … This market was sure a Sunday meeting place. I mean, the guys were well know in the market … I think they come here often … I sure would if I were living on the island. Of course, a 3rd round of Poncha was in order … all good things are 3 … that is the saying … This time we tried Tangerine Poncha and had more snacks with them as well.
Now we were really getting into the mood. That Poncha was … potent … to say the least. But there was no shortage of topics to talk about and I could have only gotten started to talk about my 5 years as SCUBA instructor in Thailand – 4 of them on The Rock Koh Tao – where the Pilot had taken a diving course – years after I had left, though. Let’s say, we all had fun!
Good thing that George was not drinking as much as everybody else and he kept an eye on the clock. Before somebody could have the idea of having Poncha #4 he reminded us that it was time to have lunch! Oh yes, I needed food! In this state I could not drive back to my hotel by myself! Christian dragged me away from my dive talk with the Pilot and we went to the other side of the market to their favourite restaurant. It was a market affair in a tent and we had to wait for seats to open. But it took only a few minutes, then we got one of the plastic table with plastic stools.
Christian ordered – in perfect Portuguese again – for us all some Chicken, Pork, Bolo do Caco Garlic bread and Salad. And WATER! Only water! I needed to flush the Poncha out. A shame, but … hey, I had to drive back! The food came quickly and it was very good! I dug in … I probably drank the bottle of water all by myself … and I still had time to talk and talk and talk … and take a photo …
Eventually it was time to get going. George had a conference call in the afternoon. So we needed to be on our way. I actually wanted to walk the 1.5 km back to the Golf Club to sober up some more. But it was pouring down with rain still and Christian would not let me walk in this weather. Therefore we all piled in his car again. But then he remembered that he had to pay his respects to Santo António in the main Church of Santo António da Serra which was right next to the market and had been built in the mid-19th century in the same place as a 16th century chapel.
George and Len could not be bothered, but I joined Christian, who needed to do it. I am not a believer, but I am a sailor – who are usually superstitious – I visit temples as a tourist all over the world, think Lord Ganesha is cool because he is the mover of obstacles, have a collection of Buddhas at home and a guardian angel adorns my keychain … why not pay my respects to Santo António as well. Santo António is considered patron of the amputees, the animals, the sterile, the boaters, the old people, the pregnants, the fishermen, the agricultures, the travellers and sailors, the horses and donkeys, the poor and opressed. It is Portugal’s patron and – most importantly – is invoked to find lost things and to prevent shipwrecks.
That done Christian & George dropped Len and me off at the golf club parking. Now it was the final Good-bye. I had one more day on Madeira and who knows when we meet each other again. I waved them all farewell – it had been a blast! Thank you all for a fun time!
I sat in the car for a few minutes taking it slow. The food and water had helped considerably, so I got going. It was still raining. I drove very slowly down the small side road ER 207 to Água de Pena and the airport. The further down to the coast I came, the better the weather became. Since I passed by some geocache markers, I of course stopped for some secret boxes on the way. The first one was still up above the coast by the side of the road. However, there was no box or logbook left anymore … just the broken bracket … What a shame …
Bypassing the airport in brilliant sunshine I stopped for 3 secret boxes. They were all quick finds with splendid views over the airport and its runway. Not many planes were there, though. The first box was in a little garden by the roadside, the second at a busstop – and yes I parked illegally there – and the 3rd one was at a nice viewpoint where I was treated with a beautiful rainbow over the airport.
At the end of the airport I stopped at Santa Cruz for a quick look at the coast and a secret box. The Box was a quick find as well. It was hidden in a monument commemorating the victims of a fatal plane crash in this spot in 1977. After this accident, the only one with fatal victims of the TAP Airline, the runway was enlarged twice and currently has 2781 m in length. The airport is considered one of the most peculiarly perilous airports in the world due to its location and its spectacular runway construction and is ranked as the 9th most dangerous airport in the world, the 3rd most dangerous in Europe. Pilots must undergo additional training to land at the airport.
The village of Santa Cruz looked really nice as well. I decided to visit it on my last day before going to the airport for departure. The weather was so nice now – had it really been so miserable not too long ago? Probably not here … only where I had been …
From Santa Cruz I got on the VR 1 expressway and went right back to Orca Praia Hotel. Around 17:30 I arrived there and had a nap – balcony doors wide open I had to sleep off the leftover Poncha!
