02.12.2020
135 km Funchal via Santana to Porto Moniz
Leaving the city I drove the next available main road up into the mountains. Since it was still rainy and grey, I opted against trying for Pico do Areeiro for now. So I turned towards Eira do Serrado and Curral das Freiras. The road through the urban residencial area was as narrow as the one further up in the mountains.
Following the main road ER 107 up I turned off just before the tunnel that was offering the only safe access via VE 6 to Curral das Freiras. The very narrow road – the old road that had once been the only way to reach the village – was clinging to the mountain side and lead steep up into the valley. A series of secret boxes was hidden along this road, but there was no space to park anywhere … The public bus was going up as well … I could see it well ahead of me closer to the pass … the driver sure knew the road and sped up seemingly like a maniac. I suppose, he came here often and knew what he was doing. I on the other hand was once more creeping up the road. But I enjoyed the clearing view into the valley towards the coast.
And before I knew it, that bus was already coming down the mountain again … Whaaat? … Would there be enough space for both of us on the narrow road? … Well, there must be … The bus was much faster than me, though … I saw it coming and stopped at a somewhat straight part of the road on the far right glued to the mountain letting him navigate the bend ahead and pass me slowly. The driver smiled and waved when he went past. I was relieved … now there was no other big car ahead of me … the road ended in a cul-de-sac at the pass below the viewpoint near the Hotel Eira do Serrado. Surprising a public bus went up there at all …
A geocache marker was next to a small parking bay – probably there to avoid the bus – and I stopped. It was a tricky one and I have to admit I only saw the box stuck in the thorny bushes below the road and could not reach it.
Just before reaching the parking lot at the end of the road, I stopped for another hidden box by the side of the road and found it quickly. Then I parked the car, took the cameras, put my wooly hat on and hiked the short and easy path to the viewpoint of Eira do Serrado.
The rain had stopped a while ago and it offered breathtaking views over Curral das Freiras – the Valley of the Nuns. It is a secluded village far below in the very heart of the island where in the 16th century nuns took refuge from the pirates who frequently attacked Madeira. Geographically it is isolated from other communities by the cliffs and peaks surrounding its central valley and has approx 2000 inhabitants.
The Eira do Serrado Viewpoint – which I reached within minutes – was not only fantastic for its magnificent view but also for the tranquility – I was the only one up there at the moment. Situated between towering mountains, this promontory is located at an altitude of 1095 m. Right next to the sign a geocache was hidden and I discovered it without problems.
The outlook offered a fantastic panorama over the valley in which the picturesque settlements of Balceiras and Capela were embedded far below and over the grandiose mountains of the Massif Central that surrounds the Valley of the Nuns. The mountains were still capped by thick grey clouds.
Once I could tear myself away from the views I headed back to the car and drove back down the narrow road. Since I was sure that the public bus would not return that soon, I was up for some more geocaching. All the boxes I had passed on the way up I wanted to find now on the way down … The first was a quick find, but the logbook was all wet … but signable.
The next one I had to log as DNF – Did Not Find. It was definitely not there. The hint was super clear and I searched as quickly as I could in every possible hiding place … then I saw some cachers before me did not find it either … Damn … The view was great from that spot, though.
A bit further down was another one. I had to leave the car in a spot on a viewpoint bay and walk back up a couple hundred meters. I could already see the container from afar. Unfortunately that one was all wet as well … my fancy geo pen was barely able to sign it … but it did …
Just around the corner from that last hidden box there was the turn off for the Caminho Florestal das Serras de Santo António – the asphalted forestry road that led from here up to Pico do Areeiro. I had set my eyes on that one eventhough it would be much steeper than the regular road up from Poiso. It had a series of some 20 geocaches line up along it until it reached the main road just shortly below the summit. Unfortunately … the road was closed … they even had a locked gate at the turn off … maybe it was for the better that I did not beat up the car attempting it … Instead I continued down and found 2 more hidden boxes by the road side before reaching the tunnel entrance and the main road again.
I contemplated if I should take the tunnel and go to Curral das Freiras … but I decided against it. I had seen the village from above which was enough for me. If I went hiking then I wanted to hike high up … not down in the valley … Therefore I drove the ER 107 down to Courelas and there turned onto the side road that is traversing the mountains towards the East. It was winding in and out of valleys past Monte and Terreiro da Luta. The weather cleared up more and more and I could see blue clouds and sunshine more often than not …
So I decided to try for the Pico do Areeiro again … I know … I know … But I wanted to see the mountains of Madeira! I took the ER 103 up towards Poiso and what can I say … the higher I got the more sunshine there was … Maybe I was lucky today?
Soon I passed the very spot where I got stuck in snowslush the other day … it was all different today … warm and sunny … My hopes went well up … Today would be the day … I could feel it …
Without problems and in good spirits I reached the junction of Poiso. There however all my hopes got shattered for now … the stupid road to Pico do Areeiro was still closed … WHAT? … Still? … it was brillant sunshine now … WHY? …
Defeated I continued on the road towards Ribeiro Frio aiming for Santana down at the North coast. The drive through the today sunny Spruce forest was totally different from the drive a few days ago. It looked so much lighter and less mystic in the sun.
I took the opportunity of the good weather to find a couple more geocaches I had passed because of the rain the first time I came by here. The first one was in Ribeiro Frio near the forest wardens station. I parked the car and took a short walk.
Located on the northern slopes of the island, Ribeiro Frio – cold river – is a very popular starting point for Levada walks. It still has much of the original vegetation today. The island was once totally covered with Laurissilva forest, a relic from prehistoric times. At 860 meters high surrounded by some woods of especially endemic species of Laurel, the place is also populated by native birds of the island. Laurel forests are characterized by evergreen glossy and elongated leaves and hardwood trees reaching up to 40 m. Plants from the Laurel family – Lauraceae – may or may not be present, depending on the location. Most Laurel forest species occur in tropical, subtropical and mild temperate regions and cloud forests of the Northern and Southern hemispheres. A beautiful path led along a Levada into the forest. It was an easy walk of only a few hundred meters I intended to do here …
A geocache was hidden not far up the path and it turned out it was next to an absolutely stunning Levada staircase. The secret box was right next to it under a rock – where else on Madeira – and I uncovered it without problems. But of course I had to marvel in the view of the water stairs a while longer. This awesome Levada was so much different from the sort of urban one I walked along yesterday in Funchal … and it was seemingly endlessly leading up into the mountain … I did not hike up there, though …
It was a beautiful area. Mushrooms were sprouting out of the forest floor – unfortunately not edible and rather poisonous ones – and a picnic area was waiting for visitors. Nobody but me was there today, though …
Driving down towards Santana on the North coast the sun stayed with me and the views were fantastic. Many roadside waterfalls were carrying the water down from the montains and were filling the ditches. I stopped for one more drive-in geocache at a viewpoint. Again it was a fast find by the roadside. But I lingered to admire the view over the valley basking in the sun for some time.
Coming down the mountains the sky was azure blue and the sun shining brilliantly. The views were outstanding. For the first time since arriving on the island I could see the jagged peaks of the rugged ridges. The clouds were not dark and grey anymore, but seemingly white fluffy Cumulus clouds that seemed to be lifting off the mountains more and more.
I took the VE 1 for a few kilometers West to Santana and turned off there going into the village in search of the typical houses Santana is famous for. The Casas de Colmo are small triangular houses built of wood and thatched with straw reaching all the way to the ground. They belonged essentially to humble people – mainly farmers with no means to purchase more noble building materials – and this type of construction used to be spread around the island. Despite of the roof being made simply of straw, its sharp angle of inclination forced rain to drain, preventing it from soaking through, thus making it impermeable. These materials also made for pleasant temperatures, both in summer and winter.
Circling through the village I came across a sign pointing up a road stating Pico Ruivo. Hmmm … Wait … that is the highest mountain of Madeira! … I did not have this one on my radar yet … I stopped by the side of the road and checked the map … Yes, a road was leading up to Achada do Teixeira and from there a hiking trail lead to the top … The weather looked good … I decided try it.
Our happiest moments as tourists always come when we stumble upon one thing
while in pursuit of something else
Lawrence Block
The road was climbing up the side of the valley and soon left the residential area. I passed the forest gate … it was open … that meant the road was open! It was a typical narrow mountain road. The aftermath of the recent rains was visible – leaves and branches covered parts of the road. There was very little traffic, actually I only encountered heavy lorries coming down. I wondered where they came from … But it also meant the road was open further up as well … There was not much between here and Achada do Teixeira …
At the end the road opened up to a large parking lot at approx 1560 m altitude. That was so far the highest point I had reached on the island! And there was no snow, it was still sunny and dry with almost no wind and around 10°C. Now I also knew where the heavy truck had come from – they were doing some road improvement in the parking lot.
The view from here was already promising. It was around 13:45 and I was in good spirits … I could do it! Summit the highest peak of Madeira! I put on my jackets and wooly hat – the warm trousers I wore already since this morning – as if I had know I would go hiking in the mountains … Then I packed all cameras and a snack in my backpack – since I was relocating to another hotel all my supplies were in the car … And off I went on my first real hike on Madeira!
Several signs marked the start of the trail near the parking lot. I would take the route PR 1.2 Vereda do Pico Ruivo which led directly up the highest peak of Madeira. It was a 2.8 km one-way tour that climbs the ridge which divides the cliffs of Faial and Santana. This trail was the easiest way to reach Pico Ruivo. It was a well maintained, paved path.
Only a couple hundred meters up the trail the first geocache was hidden and I of course found it. Its location offered spectacular views down to the sunny North coast.
And I could see my funny car down at the parking lot at Achada do Teixeira – there were not many other car parked. Very few people seemed to be around. I did meet a few hikers every now and then, though.
Another geocache was a little further up. That was as quickly found as the first one. Awesome views opened up mostly to the right as the trail traversed a ridge.
It was indeed an easy hike for most of the way. Several times small brooks came down the ridge crossing the path. The water from all the rain and snow of the last days had to go somewhere … But that was no problem. The pavement made for a safe walk and it was not really muddy.
In the middle of the Ribeira dos Arcos valley below, the Queimadas Forest Park which is wellknown for its Laurissilva forest, was visible and I could make out Achada do Marques – a small settlement characteristic for its thatched, pitched-roof huts and agricultural fields. A little further in the interior of the island extended the valley Ribeira Grande. Sun and clouds were chasing each other and made for ever changing photo opportunities.
Up here the landscape was characterized by herbaceous and shrub-like vegetation that had adapted well to the large temperature fluctuations, heavy rainfall and strong winds. There were mainly different types of heather plants, which were previously used en masse for the production of charcoal.
Various shelters and resting places were located along the trail as the weather often changes suddenly up here and the area can quickly disappear into a sea of clouds.
Coming around the ridge the view to the left opened up. It is supposed to offer magnificent views of the Ribeira Seca valley, dominated by the Pico das Torres with Pico do Areeiro in the background. Unfortunately the clouds prevailed on that side. But they were moving and in between I could catch glimpses of what was hidden behind them.
Then I had the first sight of the summit! Pico Ruivo! 1862m! From where I was standing the trail led down into a valley only to then steeply climb past the white washed mountain hut called Casa de Abrigo Pico Ruivo to the summit. Oh well, while the first part had been easy … I had covered a little more than half the distance so far …
… Now started the hard work … down and up up up to the summit. For the moment the clouds wafted over the ridge and the peaks and in a blink everything was covered in white cloudy fluff again …
It was a slight descent into a depression before the trail was steadily climbing again towards the mountain hut. So far I had encountered maybe 3 other hikers, but here a couple of trail runners passed me. I mean, I was taking my time – I was in no form whatsoever, I have to admit – but they were running up that mountain … Oh well …
Close to the Pico Ruivo mountain hut the trail split into 3 other routes to different parts of the island. There was the trail PR 1 Vereda do Pico do Areeiro – the most famous hike on Madeira – a tunnel-route of approx 7 km leading along narrow pathways, up and down ominous staircases and through dark tunnel chambers apparently.
Then there was the PR 1.3 Vereda da Encumeada to the Western side of the central mountain range to Encumeada approx 11 km away and PR 1.1 Vereda da Ilha leading to Ilha down in the valley between Santana and São Jorge approx 8 km to hike. Usually hikers do these routes one way – but what would I have done with the car? And also … I am lazy … For me the 2.8 km to the highest peak are enough … after all I have to hike it all the way back as well …
The Casa de Abrigo Pico Ruivo looked rather deserted today. Apparently it had been constructed in 1939, renovated and re-opened in 2019. It was allegedly not a guesthouse, but had facilities and also beverages for sale. It looked like a popular picnic spot and would probably be packed in regular high season. Today only the resident cat was guarding the terrace. A cloud was enveloping the trail as I walked past. The sign read 0.5 km to the summit of Pico Ruivo. It would prove to be the hardest part of the trail …
For the first 200 m or so it was a steady but easy climb along the still paved, wide path. It was slightly windy and the clouds drifted in and out. I was happy I had my wooly hat on and my 2 jackets. It was noticeably colder up here. But still it was dry and every now and then the sun glimpsed through. From the point where the PR 1.3 trail finally forked off, it was another 300 m up to the summit which I had yet to spot close up.
Now the trail got much narrower and steeper in some parts. It was still paved, but several sections were washed out by the water. I walked slowly and took my time. When I spotted the summit up ahead, the 2 trailrunners came already racing down again … They were off to Pico do Areeiro, they said. The top was hidden in a cloud again, but I could make out other people up there. The trail was now wider again and even had a rail. And just when I – huffing and puffing – reached the last and final climb to the summit, the clouds opened to some blue sky and a few sunrays came through.
After 1 h 15 min – taking my time and a lot of photos – I reached the summit of Pico Ruivo at 1862 m! Yeah! I did it! I was so happy! 4 other tourists were up there as well, but they left soon and I had the summit platform to myself! This moment called for a snack and a celebratory picolo!
Pico Ruivo is with 1862 m the highest peak on Madeira Island. It provides usually 360° panoramic views of the island from coast to coast, but unpredictable weather conditions can also make it quite dangerous. There was only a slight wind today, but clouds and sun kept chasing each other. Basically I was above the clouds, though.
A Virtual Cache was located here and I took the necessary photos to log it. That was not hard, since I was clicking away continuously anyway … The only requirement was to hold my geocaching name in the photo. Well, I held my stamp, but only noticed when logging online later, that the name was not even visible … But who is there to judge …
I was busy trying to capture the clear moments. the clouds were wafting in and out and everychanging views opened up. It is said that on a good day it is possible to see all the way to Ponta de São Lourenço – the far Eastern tip of the island … Not today, though … But I could imagine and if you asked me I saw it between the clouds in the distance …
Standing up there taking in the magnificent views it dawned on me how long it had been since I summited a major peak. Not that I am a mountain climber or such. I do like trekking, though. My favourite place to go for that is Nepal. I have been there … let me think about it … 7 times so far. No no, I never will attempted Mount Everest – I might be crazy, but not that crazy. I know my limits. But I have been on top Kalar Patthar at 5644 m overlooking Everest Base Camp and Mount Everest 3 times so far, one time I made it to Gokyo Ri at 5357 m. If the shit would not have hit the fan this year, I would have travelled Nepal again last April … My friend Stef and me were up there in 2010 and it seemed like a great idea to repeat the trek 10 years later. Unfortunately, instead we sat in lockdown at home and the airline has yet to refund the plane tickets …
Another absolutely awesome and memorable summit was Mount Kilimanjaro. Damn, that was an absolutely breathtaking trek as well. I did it in 2002 taking the longer and most beautiful Machame route – also known as the Whiskey route and back then a well-kept insider tip as in comparison to the shorter Coca Cola route which was already back then considered more of a tourist runway. It was one of the most breathtaking moments to stand on top of that volcano rim at 5895 m and watch the sunrise at subzero temperatures. Snow on Kilimanjaro! It was so cold, the water in our canteens had frozen during the last hour before sunrise! It was undiscribable beautiful up there!
None of those treks of course compared to my little hike this afternoon … but under the circumstances it felt like a great achievement. I mean, Madeira had not ever been on my list at all … it was one of those destinations that could wait for later … I preferred visiting far away and exotic places in Asia, Africa, South America … However, this year is different … you have to take what you get … and so … Here I am! … In the clouds again …
Near the 2nd viewing platform a few meters below the summit a secret box was hidden and I was determined to find it. I had the last of those Travelling Bug I brought from Germany to place. This one originated in France and wanted to reach Mount Everest … Well, it would not make it this year either, but I could bring it to the highest point of Madeira … That counts this year!
It was a tricky box to find – the hint – under rocks – was not really helpful since there were many … Lucky I was that I was all alone up there today and nobody watched or cared about me stepping over the fence and searching in the bushes. Only the cat from the mountain hut had followed me up here and looked at me suspiciously … at least I thought it was the cat I had met before … Hmm …
I hope the cat was not hunting the pretty little birds that had been begging for crumbs on the summit and kept checking me out here as well. One in particular was curious and let me take a close-up photo. It was a Madeiran Chaffinch – Fringilla Coelebs Maderensis – a small passerine bird that is endemic to and only found on Madeira. It is locally known as the Tentilhão. The male is more brightly coloured than the female. It has a pinkish breast, bluish-grey cap and greenish-brown back. The female’s colouring is more subdued with a cream breast and brownish back, but both have prominent white wing-bars and tail-sides.
Before I found the box, though, I was totally distracted by a stunning phenomenon I had never ever seen before! The sun had come out on the South side of the peak and there were clouds below on the North side. North was also the direction I was searching and all of a sudden I noticed this circular rainbow with my shadow in the center.
Speechless I fumbled with all my cameras – I have 2 plus my mobile – taking photos with all of them to be sure at least a couple of them pictures would turn out. It looked totally amazing. I had absolutely no idea what it was. It sure was not a Sundog – I had seen that before, but the sun was behind me … Same went for the Halo – a circular rainbow – is also around the sun … I was glueless … Until I posted today’s photos on facebook and my friend Julishka from Budapest – That is really her name and she is really from Budapest! – gave the perfect explanation! It was a Glory!
A Glory is an optical phenomenon, resembling an iconic saint’s halo around the shadow of the observer’s head, caused by sunlight interacting with the tiny water droplets that comprise mist or clouds. The Glory consists of one or more concentric, successively dimmer rings, each of which is red on the outside and bluish towards the center. Due to its appearance, the phenomenon is sometimes mistaken for a circular rainbow, but the latter has a much larger diameter and is caused by different physical processes. Glories arise due to wave interference of light internally refracted within small droplets.
As the cloud and mist below cleared the Glory disappeared as well … and I continued my search for that geocache. I looked for a long time until I more or less accidentally spotted it under a rock much closer to the trail than the GPS marker had suggested. But my GPS app was probably acting up up here anyway. It turned out to be a rather large box and I quickly signed the log book. Placing the travel bug inside I closed the box properly and hid it in its place again. Of course, I gave this geocache a favourite point when logging online – that location deserved it!
The sun was out now and on the Northern side the views were clear and sunny all the way down to the coast and the ocean. The summit was in nice sunshine as well with clouds only on the Southern side.
… and I think to myself what a wonderful world …Louis Armstrong
I started the trek down again and since the trail led around the Southern side of the summit enjoyed another spectacular exhibit … The clouds lingering in the valley towards the south tried to climb up the mountains and pass over to the North. Only it seemed as they did not succeed … it made for beautiful photos, though.
It was late in the afternoon by now and the sun was slowly moving to the west. So it was almost … a little bit … like a pre-sunset. But I could not wait up here for that. I was not prepared to hike in the dark and anyway I had still a long way to go to my next hotel in Porto Moniz.
Walking downhill was much easier and faster than up. I nearly skipped down the stairs. I was happy and I was going to the sunny side of the island. Well, it would be sunny only for a little bit longer. As soon as the sun was behind the mountains the North would be in the shadow once more.
Another geocache was hidden a little off the trail in the bushes under rocks. I had missed it on the way up … I had been to focused on the last bit of the trek … now on the way down I would find it. I bashed through the bushes and quickly located the container, signed the logbook, took my photo and was on route again.
A little below that last box was a shelter along the trail and I took a break for a snack and to submerge myself into the view for a while. The dead trees – having been polished to a silvery shine by the elements up here – made for marvelous photo opportunities.
I could even make out the 1818 m high summit of Pico do Areeiro – the 3rd highest mountain of Madeira behind the clouds every now and then. While I sat there soaking up the views my mobile beeped … Yeah, there was mobile net up there … A message from the Whalewatching company in Calheta. I had left my details there on the first day, so they could contact me when a Whalewatching tour got scheduled. And I was lucky! Tomorrow afternoon they would go out, if I wanted to join? – Of course, I would! – Just be at the shop by 14:00, the tour will start at 14:30! – You can count on me! … Now, that were absolutely good news as well! Maybe the weather did get better from now on!
I was excitedly hiking back to the car. It was a good day! I had climbed Madeira’s highest peak and the Whalewatching was going to happen tomorrow!
Arriving at the car approx 16:30 I was all sweaty after a great hike and had to take off some layers before driving down towards Santana. On the way I stopped at a viewpoint for a quick geocache. It was a really easy find, because the yellow container was laying in the grass next to the viewpoint wall. It might have fallen out of its hiding place between the rocks due to the weather or whatever. I signed the logbook, stuck the box in the wall and off I was towards the coast.
Before I finally headed to Porto Moniz which is situated at the far North-West corner of the island, I stopped in Santana at the Parque Temático da Madeira – the Madeira Theme Park. A Virtual Cache was marked there and the park was basically on the way to the main road. So a quick stop was in order.
The parking lot was empty … was it even open? Yes, it was … I expected to pay an entrance fee. The website stated € 9 per adult … but apparently that was only for the inside attractions. The access to the park itself was free and the ticket clerk waved me through … I only saw 2 other visitor in the half hour I was there …
The park is dedicated to the history, science and traditions of the Madeira Islands. It occupies an area of 145000 m² and is the only one of its kind in Portugal. Main attractions here are the 4 multimedia pavilions – “Discovery of the Islands”, “Future of the Earth”, “Fantastic Voyage in Madeira” and “A World of Islands, The Islands of the World”. For those a the ticket was required, but it did not even look as if they were open. It was already past 17:00 in the afternoon, shortly before closing time, though.
Oversized replicas of traditional Madeiran objects were set throughout the park, as well as miniatures of the houses of Santana painted in the seemingly traditional colour white, red and blue.
The task of the Virtual Cache was to take 3 photos with 3 of the many objects. One of the photos should show the geocaching name … well, that was easy … I just held my stamp in the camera.
The second photo had to show somebody pushing one of the objects … Hmmm … not so good doing it with a selfie stick … but in my bottomless camera backpack I also had a short tripod. Finally I could put it to use … The Banana was a great obtject to try and push … it did not move of course …
For the last photo I had to make myself a total clown … It was supposed to show someone jumping in front of another object … Oh my … I had to try several time with the self timer to get the timing right … I was just lucky that there were no other people around anymore. I had chosen the large Madeira Wine bottle not only because it was depicting a wine bottle, but also because it was in a far corner of the park somewhat hidden from the staff that seemed to be patrolling the park as well. It took me quite a while to get a proper jumping photo … never mind about my grimacing face … I could not be bothered trying for a pretty face as well …
There was one section of the park where several of the traditional houses – Casas de Colmo – were set up museum-style. Originally the houses even have an attic which was used as storage place. The ground flour normally was the the living area, which was divided in 2 sections by a partition wall.
The kitchen was held in a different hut, also with a straw roof, where besides cooking women also managed other tasks, such as embroider, sew, spin and other domestic and agriculture related tasks. There were also haylofts and similar constructions built to keep the livestock.
Some local ladies were dressed up in traditional costumes and were busy doing handicrafts in the houses. A traditional handloom caught my eye … it reminded me of the weavers we visited in Assam … the hand looms of the village women were even more primitive than this one. The silk weavers in Sualkuchi on the other hand had similar looms only bigger. Over there in Northeast India the looms were everyday tools and in constant use … here it was on display in the museum …
A lot of endemic plants and other flora were spread out in the gardens of the park. Much was blooming despite the time of year. There were several Brugmansia Versicolor – their large, fragrant flowers giving them their common name of Angel’s Trumpets. They are woody trees or shrubs with pendulous flowers which are the largest of all Brugmansia and open first white, but then may age to turn peach, pink or apricot. Brugmansia are amongst the most toxic of ornamental plants, containing tropane alkaloids of the type responsible also for the toxicity of the infamous deadly nightshade.
Then there was a tree which I first thought was a Ficus Elastica – the Rubber Fig – a species native to Eastern parts of South Asia and southeast Asia. But I might have been misled by the evergreen leaves … It turned out to be a Magnolia Grandiflora – commonly known as the Southern Magnolia – a striking evergreen tree reaching up to 27 m in height with large dark green leaves up to 20 cm long and 12 cm wide and white, lemon citronella-scented flowers up to 30 cm in diameter. Although endemic to the evergreen lowland subtropical forests in the Southern US, Magnolia Grandiflora is widely cultivated in warmer areas around the world. I had encountered that tree already in the South of France, but I had never seen the flowers – or not noticed it being the same tree that had green to rose-coloured, warty, cucumber-like fruits following the flowers …
While the Southern Magnolia with its glossy leaves remains attractive year-round, most of the other Magnolia are deciduous. Of course, they also had other Magnolia in the park … It looked like the Magnolia Soulangeana – the Saucer Magnolia – a deciduous tree with large, early-blooming flowers in various shades of white, pink and purple. It is one of the most commonly used Magnolias in horticulture. It had only very few early flowers at the moment. The Magnolia is named after the French botanist Pierre Magnol who admired the tree so much that he transplanted it to Europe some 300 years ago.
The large purple flowers of the Tibouchina Urvilleana were visible already from afar. Native to Brazil, the so-called Princess Flower is a sprawling evergreen shrub up to 3 m high with longitudinally veined, dark green hairy leaves. Clusters of brilliant purple flowers up to 10 cm in diameter are borne throughout summer and autumn.
Kniphofia – also called Tritoma, Red Hot Poker, Torch Lily or Poker Plant – were flowering in abundance in front of the traditional houses. They have narrow, grass-like leaves and produce spikes of upright, brightly coloured flowers in shades of red, orange and yellow, often bicoloured. It is native to Africa, but they is often cultivated as garden plant.
By now it was already 17:30 and time to hit the road to get to Porto Moniz. It was approx 50 km to go and it was not at all the German Autobahn … The expressway VE 1 ended shortly after I had left Santana – it had not been completed yet – and I had to take the regular road to Ponta Delgada. From there it was expressway again to São Vincente and then the VE 2 pretty much all the way to Porto Moniz. Still it took me more than an hour and I reached my hotel Aqua Natura Madeira at approx 18:45 already in the dark. I found a parking space close to the hotel and went in for check in. It was a very nice hotel. For the first time since I arrived on the island they wanted to see the C-test result. I had to email it along with my flight details for them to be sure I did not have to go into quarantine upon arrival.
My room was #112 one floor down from reception almost at the end of the corridor. I got a welcome drink – a glass of blue proseco – and also a welcome bottle of it! What a service! The room was beautiful with a big balcony and ocean view – only it was already pitch black dark and I could only hear the Atlantic roaring outside.
Quickly I went to get my suitcase and bag. They told me the car could stay where I had parked it for free. Then I was hungry … I had no lunch today … I went hiking instead … the snack I had on the way was not holding up. The Seaview Rooftop Restaurante of the hotel was getting good reviews for its Mediterranean and Japanese cuisine. I am all for rooftops and Mediterranean and Japanese … And I had received a 10% voucher per night for the hotel’s restaurants … Not that I was going to go in search of food outside at this time anyway. I was hungry! The closest the best! I had checked, if they were open, at reception. They were not sure … it was weather depending … and I did not need a reservation, they said, it was not too busy at the moment … Before I walked up to the 4th floor of the hotel I changed out of my hiking attire, though, into something a bit more clean.
It turned out I was the only customer up there! It was approx 19:30 … too late for German tourists and maybe too early for Portuguese … or maybe it was just not busy at all at the moment. It was a very nice setting, very fancy. It even had heaters for the evening cold. It was all lit with indirect light, so very romantic. I only took a photo of the almost full moon …
Indulging myself with a nice glass of white wine for a change, I ordered Octopus Carpaccio for starters. What can I say … It was delectable! The Octopus Carpaccio had a pimiento marinade, pine nuts and edible flowers as deco. It was lip-smacking, finger-licking awesome!
In between the starter and the main course they served a Lemon Sorbet to clean the palate, as the waitress called it. Stylish! And yummy.
My main course was a Black Scabbard Fish on Passion Fruit Couscous, sparkling wine sauce and pureed Banana. It was … exquisite to say the least. And I was blown away once more by the deco of edible flowers. It looked so so good. And it was outstandingly good! The fish was so delicious that I all but licked the plate clean …
I was happy! It was a perfect end to a perfect day! I put the bill on the room – got a typical Madeira Banana Liqueur with it – and went back down to take a shower. While I had dinner, the bed had been turned down and there was a good night chocolate on the pillow. How cute! And I was totally beat after this exciting day today. I sorted and posted some photos for the family and then went straight to bed with the sound of the waves lulling me to sleep.
03.12.2020
91 km Porto Moniz – Paul da Serra – Calheta
Today I woke up very early – still in the dark. It was not raining – what a relief! The Atlantic waves were crashing outside my balcony. I opened the balcony doors wide and listened to the sound. Soon the sun rose behind the cliffs in the East. I could not see it as my balcony was rather facing Northwest. But that treated me to wonderful purple clouds above the cliff and the waves.
My room even came with a nespresso machine and 2 complimentary capsules per day. Damn, coffee as I like it! Sitting on the balcony, watching the waves and sipping coffee … Best start to the day!
I fiddled with yesterday’s photos and watched the sun climb higher. Putting my bottle of sparkly on the balcony – strictly for photographic purposes – I took some pictures of the view. The weather looked really promising today!
Having been allocated the breakfast slot at 07:30 for the duration of my stay here, I was coming to the restaurant slightly delayed today, because I was so immersed in the view. The restaurant was not too extensive, but only a few people were there anyway. It was too fresh and windy to sit outside on the terrace, but I got a nice table by the huge windows. They served Juices, coffee and blue sparkly wine – Yeah! Prosecco breakfast! – at the table and with the cutlery they gave buffet tongs as well. So it was self service without having to touch any utensils. Clever, me thinks. I enjoyed a very nice breakfast with fresh-pressed kiwi-melon juice, orange juice, eggs and tasty bread. The view was great, too.
At 09:00 I got going. I took all the warm clothes layers for the Whalewatching this afternoon. I had all morning and 2 options to go to Calheta – either around the Western side of the island or up and across the high plateau of Paul da Serra. The weather looked still good, the sun was coming out, so I decided the latter option it should be. I took the VE 2 the short hop to Ribeira da Janela and then the ER 209 up to the plateau. I wanted to stop at the Posto Florestal Fanal. From the parking lot there a few hiking trail went off and there were of course some geocaches as well …
The road was steeply winding up towards the plateau once it left the residential area. Soon I left the agricultural areas as well and reached the typical low vegetations prevailing in higher altitudes. And then there were cows on the road … First I thought I did not see correctly, but no … cows walked the road all by themselves … It looked like the tastiest herbs for them were by the roadside … Funny!
It was not long until I reached the parking at Fanal which is at approx 1200 m altitude. Fog was rolling in, but it was dry and not at all windy. I went for a little hike in the magical – since 1999 UNESCO-listed – Laurisilva Forest, which is the living remnant of an ancient Laurel forest that once covered most of Europe. Today it is the largest surviving area of Laurel forest in the world, is believed to be 90% primary forest and a vegetation type that is now confined to the Azores, Madeira and the Canary Islands. The island was once totally covered with Laurissilva forest, a relic from prehistoric times.
It is said that the best and most atmospheric time to visit here is on a morning when clouds are shrouding the landscape in mysterious fog. Well, unintentionally I came at the right time! First I walked along a narrow trail through bushes towards the Posto Florestal and found a secret box by the side of the driveway.
Past the forest wardens house the trail lead through hilly meadows and up some stairs into an almost fairytale landscape. Seemingly every tree was crooked, windblown and looking like a piece of art. It could be also called a Cloud Forest as it often has clouds on top of the trees, drawing moisture from the air into the soil and then into the Levada network.
Laurel forest is a type of subtropical forest found in areas with high humidity and relatively stable, mild temperatures. It is characterized by broadleaf tree species with evergreen, glossy and elongated leaves. Plants from the Laurel family may or may not be present. Laurel and Laurophyll forests have a patchy distribution in warm temperate regions, often occupying topographic refugia where the moisture from the ocean condenses so that it falls as rain or fog. They have a mild climate and are seldom exposed to fires or frosts.
Walking along some sort of ridge – well, I could not see anything, but there were trail marks and to one side it steeply fell away … into the fog – I was sure there must have been a viewpoint. Not today, though. But only a few hundred meters along the path a geocache was hidden. It had a terrain rating of 3 and the hint said – beside the trail …
I checked out the location. Right next to the trail the slope went steep into the unknown fog, but … forest was covering that slope. The marker pointed only 5 m down … I parked my backpack at the trail … I do not think anybody was around to steel it … and if I slipped down the slope they would find the pack and maybe search for me? … Armed with my cameras I climbed down the 1.5 m rock drop to the first trees … hopefully I would get back up again later …
Do not worry … it was not dangerous at all … but it was wet and somewhat slippery. I grabbed hold of every available branch … and very quickly I found the container hidden in a tree trunk. Surprisingly the logbook was dry and I signed it quickly. Then I climbed back onto the path as quickly … muddy hands and knees included … and continued my hike through the clouds …
Walking in the opposite direction along the ridge more old crooked trees appeared out of the fog. Every one of them seemed to have their very own personality. It was such a mystical and moody vibe up here. I had a closer look at one of the trees – it kind of reminded me of the Green Oak under which the truffles grow in the South of France. Indeed it was however a Ocotea Foetens – commonly called Til or Stinkwood – a species of tree in the family Lauraceae. It is evergreen and grows up to 40 m tall making it a common constituent of the Laurisilva forests of Madeira and the Canary Islands. The fruit is a berry, hard and fleshy and about 3 cm long, its lower half covered by a dome, giving it a look similar to an Acorn. The fruit is dark green, gradually darkening with maturity.
Now I really seemed to almost balance along a ridge. To the North on my right the hill fell away sharply into the fog and on the South to my left the forest sloped down steadily as well. The wind-crooked, twisted branches of the old trees were engulfed in mystical fog.
A few hundred meters on another geocache was hidden. It was not as much to climb here. The container was hidden behind and under some huge boulders between evergreen bushes. Once more I left my bag in front of the rocks and scrambled over them into the bushes.
Quickly I found the really large box. The logbook was well preserved and I could stamp it without problems. Then I properly hid it again.
Clambering back over the rocks I stumbled upon a treasure … a small silver ring! It was off the track and supposedly only geocachers would climb over those boulders … I wondered who lost it here. It was not a very valuable ring, though, I was not even sure, if it was real silver … It did not fit my fat fingers either … I fixed it to the chain of the travel bug I had taken out of the box to take back to Germany with me. Later I sent that trackable off in a geocache at home and with it the ring started a voyage.
Starting to head back towards the parking, I got distracted … Was that a cow I heard mooing in the fog? … I went to investigate. Since there was not really a visible path on the grassy terrain I just followed the sounds and the arrow on my GPS app … No, the cows did not have a GPS tracker, silly! … But the mooing was sort of the same direction as the parking lot … cross-country …
Here at Fanal some of the oldest trees in the Laurisilva Forest of Madeira make it a rather magical place, the fog adding the mystical touch and the cows did not change that. They were rather adding to the fairytale scenery as they appeared out of the fog. They were seemingly talking to each other or keeping in contact by mooing every now and then.
The cows made for some cool photos! I spent quite a while watching them … you know … if you cannot go on a proper safari … you have to take what you get … and if it is cows in the mist … it is cows in the mist!
Just like real wild animals the cows did not let me come closer, they would just back away. I strolled down the grassy hill and without problems found the parking lot. Only a couple of other cars were there. I had not met any other hikers so far, but obviously some were en route. After a short hour I was back at the car and my hair was all wet from the mist and the rain dripping from the trees. Still it was not raining, though.
Leaving Fanal after a magnificent little hike, I kept driving the road up to Paul da Serra plateau. It was only a little further when I broke through the clouds and Madeira presented itself at its best – with sparkling blue sky and brilliant sunshine!
