28.11.2020
131 km Eastern part
At 1412 m altitude Paso do Poiso was the highest I reached today. By now I had figured the coast would be a better option … it had been sunny this morning. Therefore I took the road downhill North towards Ribeiro Frio and Faial. The rain had increased and the clouds hung low in the spruce forest. It was very mystical.
A couple of kilometers down the road, I stopped for a secret box despite the rain. It was hidden at a picnic area that was dedicated to the cooperage and so was the geocache. Old barrels were on display next to a well.
For centuries, the profession of cooper – builder of vats, barrels and other wooden containers to store and transport wine – was very important due to the production and trade of wine on the island. Making these pieces required careful and time-consuming learning, in which technical knowledge was passed on from generation to generation. The facility in which barrels and casks are made is also referred to as a cooperage. In the early 12th century, cooperage was a profession with a high number of craftsmen, it is still one of the oldest industries in Portugal. There are countless historical references to Portuguese wines that were transported in casks.
The secret box was hidden behind the picnic table in the corner of the rock wall under vegetation covered by a stone. The listing had several spoiler photos – it was a no brains find even in the rain. I suppose, this spot was a popular tourist spot. The few minutes I was there a tourist minibus stopped – nobody got out, but I could see the driver-guide explain something about it. I had to wait until they had moved on to grab the box. Unfortunately the container was destroyed – it had a big hole and the logbook was completely wet … Quickly I took a photo, placed it as I had found it and moved on.
This morning’s sunshine obviously had not made it over here … There were more geocaches along the road, but I passed them all, because the rain was not letting up. For a minute I considered stopping in Ribeiro Frio – Cold River – which is a trout breeding station on the edge of the UNESCO World Natural Heritage Laurisilva Forest of Madeira and a very popular starting point for Levada walks. That however, would have to wait for another day with better weather … Today it rained even on the North coast when I reached Faial.
Spontaneously I turned right once I reached the VR 1 and headed to the East coast. I remembered that I had seen a sign for the Museu da Baleia – Whale Museum Madeira – the other day when I had taken a wrong turn on the way back to the hotel. I am not a museum person, but I like whales and I had parked the information of the existence of this museum in the back of my mind for a rainy day … I guess today maybe was this day … However … I was still hopeful for improvement …
Leaving the expressway for Caniçal it indeed looked somewhat better and I stopped by the side of the road for a secret box and the view. Since 2007 Caniçal is the principal cargo port in Madeira. It is one of the oldest settlements on the island although Caniçal remained rather isolated for a long time because of its location, which was difficult to access. It used to be a military port and until the middle of the 20th century an important whaling station. In the mid-1960s with the construction of the so-called Caniçal Tunnel, a quick connection with the district town of Machico and the rest of the island was established and thus the town opened up. The port, through which all Madeira’s freight is handled today, was expanded, with an associated free trade zone and corresponding industrial zones. On the other hand, Caniçal no longer offers such an idyllic picture as other places, which is certainly an advantage for the local population. Most tourists would only pass through it on their way to the Ponta de São Lourenço Peninsula.
Nevertheless, I stopped to have a look around. I drove down to the harbour, parked the car and went for a walk. The name of the town goes back to the widespread distribution of the reed grass – Caniço – which grew in the driest area of Madeira. The stalks of the reed grass were originally used as fishing rods, which made it one of the main tools for the occupation of the people of this area – fishing. Caniçal is a fishing town with a long tradition. In the early 1940s a new form of marine resources was introduced in Madeira – the hunt for Sperm whales. Due to its unique geographical location, Madeira is on many cetaceans’ migratory routes. Madeira’s whaling history which started in 1941 and Caniçal was the center for it. The whaling industry continued until 1981. Today the fishing industry centers on Tuna. The largest Tuna Fishing Companies of Madeira are based in Caniçal. They not only supply the regional market but also export large quantities of fish to mainland Portugal, Europe, Australia, China, Japan and Venezuela.
It was rainy again and a cold wind was blowing onshore. It was rather unpleasant. So the Museu da Baleia – the Whale Museum Madeira – it was today. It was located not far from the harbour, but I drove there. The parking lot was virtually empty … the museum looked closed … another car pulled up and a family got out … they went to check the entrance door … It was open! … Good! … I grabbed my mask, money and mobile, left everything else in the car and went in. The entrance fee was € 10, but to my delight they had a winter sale of 10% so it was only € 9. The ticket included an audioguide which got properly disinfected before the receptionist handed it to me.
The Whale Museum Madeira covers 2 different – obviously contradictory – objectives which are the whaling history of the island and the conservation of the creatures. Its creation was proposed in 1989 by Mr Eleutério Reis, a former Whaling Company of the Madeira Manager who would become the first director of the institution calling for the protection of cetaceans in the waters of the archipelago. It opened its doors to the public in 1990 on the ancient fish market’s premises in Caniçal. It expanded its exhibitions and activities in conservation and outgrew its original location, so that in 2011 the new modern museum was inaugurated.
The first part of the exhibition talked about Madeira’s whaling history from beginning to end. 40 years of whale hunting were documented with pictures, artifacts, videos and audio descriptions. The main room was divided into several thematic areas, ranging from the operation of the lookout network to the factory for processing the animals, as well as the hunting techniques, the reconstruction of the whaling fleet and crews and the contextualization of whaling in Madeira on the world. It displayed two original whale hunting boats alongside a to scale reproduction of a whale – to help with understanding proportions.
Every part of the hunted whale was used – oil, blubber, meant, bones, teeth … – nothing was wasted. All kinds of original artifacts were on display. It was very interesting.
Especially the Scrimshaw engravings did it for me. Typically the artwork was created by whalers and engraved on the byproducts of whales, such as bones or cartilage. It was most commonly made out of bones and teeth of sperm whales, the baleen of other whales or the tusks of walruses. There were elaborate engravings in the form of pictures and lettering on the surface of the bone or tooth with the engraving highlighted using a pigment and small sculptures made from the same material. However, the latter really fall into the categories of ivory carving – for all carved teeth and tusks – or bone carving. The making of scrimshaw probably began on whaling ships in the late 18th century and survived until the ban on commercial whaling. The practice survives as a hobby and as a trade for commercial artisans. A maker of scrimshaw is known as a scrimshander.
In the second part, the journey went back to the present – they call it “dive into the vast sea”. Full-size models of whales, dolphins and other sea creatures were hanging off the ceiling as if swimming in the ocean. It was a truly meditative room. I spent quite a while just sitting and taking it all in.
There were several stereoscopic 3D movies and other multimedia content, even a replica of a diving and observation vessel. It was open for visitors and a 3d movie gave the impression of a real deep sea dive.
I actually walked twice through all the exhibitions. Especially the part about the whaling history I found fascinating. We had visited the Húsavík Whale Museum in Iceland last year – also on a rainy day – which was very interesting as well with many whale skeletons. There had been only a small exhibit about whaling, though, while here it was much more extensive and informative.
On the way out, I dropped my audio guide at reception and had a quick look through the souvenir shop before getting back to the car. The weather had really improved a bit and I figured, I could go to Ponta de São Lourenço and maybe do a little hike there. Several geocaches were hidden on the Eastern Peninsula as well.
Ponta de São Lourenço is without a doubt one of the largest tourist attractions in the region. I drove all the way to the end of the road, easily found a parking spot, grabbed my stuff and off I went. It was only around 13:30 and I had plenty of time to explore if the weather held … Right by the parking was an Earth Cache which was dealing with weathering vice erosion. There were really funny looking lave rock pieces … they looked like dinosaur eggs to me … very cool … I took a few photos and would think about the required answers when I was back home.
I started my hike to the South of the peninsula. Ponta de São Lourenço – Point of Saint Lawrence – is the easternmost point of the island of Madeira – named after the caravel sailed by João Gonçalves de Zarco, one of the 3 discoverers of Madeira island, who on coming near this piece of land shouted to his ship “São Lourenço, that’s enough!”. Its terrains are made up of rocks and herbaceous vegetation. The fantastic landscape is truly a treasure trove of geological formations and nature and also enchants with its hidden bays and natural basalt sand beach. It features some of the finest cliff scenery on the island … even in this rather erratic weather. Since 1982 the headland is a nature reserve and is criss-crossed by several hiking trails.
First I wanted to find 2 geocaches not far away. There was a Virtual Cache that just needed a photo taken and then there was a regular hidden box somewhere there as well. Taking a selfie was rather complicated here … the wind was blowing so hard … and rain had started again … I could hardly hold the selfie stick let alone look happy into the camera …
The views along the coast line were magnificent, though. The grey rain clouds above the steep brown cliffs made a stark contrast to the turquoise of the ocean. The rain of the last days had also turned the peninsula much greener than it often is.
In the bay below there was a fish farm. Madeira has several operational fish farms – I had seen already one when I was car cruising along the South coast the other day. About 2/3 of Europe’s seafood is imported, but in Portugal that number is even higher. Fish farming is important for the economy here on the island, as it helps to diversify and reduce the dependence on tourism – we have seen this year how important it can become to not rely solely on that … Aquaculture brings jobs – not just at the farms, but at the processing and exporting sites as well, which also helps a balanced economy. Fish farming is quite the controversial topic, but when done responsibly and with oversight and regulation, it can be a positive industry in places like Madeira. We had encountered numerous fish farms on our awesome road trip above the arctic circle in Norway 2 year before.
Looking for the hidden box was equally complicated with the wind and all that mud … the rain of several days had turned the area and the path into a muddy field … The wind was thrashing me … this coastline here is notorious for being one of the windiest places on the island …I should have known … and my GPS was playing up … I knew that box was here somewhere under a rock … I looked everywhere turning over rock possible … and … eventually … I found it! Yipee!
Now I had enough of hiking in storm and rain … The wind was so strong here … the palm trees were almost flying …
Back in the car I just drove a couple hundred meters down and made another quick stop to take a photo for an Earth Cache. It turned out it dealt with the same topic as the one before and there were more of those lava rocks that looked like peeled onions … several layers had been weathered away …
The rain had stopped again and when I came around the next corner the wind had also led up only slightly. Along the road there were spectacular views towards Caniçal in the distance. But right there was Quinta do Lorde. There was a view point and I stopped for photos.
The Quinta do Lorde is a uniquely charming Madeiran resort with a total of 127 spacious apartments inspired by the island’s traditional architecture resembling a picturesque coastal village and includes a wide range of modern facilities to ensure utmost comfort and relaxation of visitors during any time of the year. A sophisticated 5-star hotel, marina and luxurious spa venue can be found here as well as a variety of recreational facilities from mini-golf circuits and a putting green to swimming pools, dining establishments, bars and more.
While I enjoyed the view I checked my geocaching map … I knew I had seen a marker for a hidden box there somewhere … and yes … there was one approx 180 m up the hill side on the other side of the road. It was a challenge, because there was no path up there, but I was going to try it. I took only the cameras and started the climb. I just followed the GPS arrow cross-country squeezing through kneehigh bushes and wet grass … clambering over rocks … up was not so complicated … I wondered if I would get down again afterwards … The box was hidden under rocks … where else … almost every geocache on the island was hidden under rocks … I looked for a long time under every rock there was … I did not find the box … I found a lot of trash, though … I assumed my mobile GPS was acting up again and was just off … eventually I gave up looking and decided to log the cache anyway … after all I had climbed up here! The views were stunning and I sat on one of the rocks to enjoy it while the weather lasted.
I had not given up on maybe doing a bit of hiking yet, for sure I was going to check out another viewpoint. Proceeding along the road, I aimed to turn off towards the Northern coast of the peninsula onto a side road. There was a parking lot at the end of it right at the Ponta do Rosto viewpoint. No other people were there when I arrived. The rain had stopped, but the small picnic area was well covered with muddy puddles.
The views were absolutely breathtaking up here. The surrounding landscape was rugged with steep cliffs of astonishing beauty. A Visual Cache required a photo take on the viewpoint … I did not have to think about it twice … If the wind had not been as strong I could have stayed up there wrapped up in the view forever. I was just worried, that maybe the wind would blow the mobile of my selfie stick …
Towards the East I could almost see all the way to the tail of the Ponta de São Lourenço peninsula. The cliffs were of volcanic origin – erosion and weathering had shaped a mind-blowing curvature along the coastline.
A few hundred meters to the West along the cliff was another viewpoint up a little hill and a secret box was hidden there, too. The wind was ripping on me and the path was slippery with centimeter thick red mud. I made my way up there nevertheless and was rewarded not only with a quick find of the box, but with another breathtaking view – this time towards the West. On a good day it was possible to see all the way to Santana along the coast. Today I could just about make it out in the misty distance.
Closer Caniçal was visible on the other side and above it on the ridge a windpark was set – the wings of the wind generators were spinning furiously. It obviously was a good place for a windpark. Renewable Energy – wind, hydro and solar – produces currently around 31 % of the island consumption and they target to increase the renewable energy share of the production to 50% by 2022.
Walking back to the car was rather complicated with the slippery path, the mud and wind. But it had been well worth the effort. That view was just awesome.
My boots were caked with mud already … Once I reached the asphalt road near the car park I walked through some puddles trying to wash the mud out and before getting in the car I had to knock my boots a long time as not to take all that muck inside.
A kilometer down just before I reached the main road I stopped once more by the side of the road. There was a secret box hidden under a rock just off the road. I found it easily, but it was quite a hassle to sign the logbook … the wind was blowing so hard … the logbook almost flew over the cliffside!
The outlook over the coastline was here as stunning as from any of the other viewpoint. I could not get enough. My funny little car was parked in a rather peculiar spot, but it made for a great photo.
It was time to slowly make my way towards São Vincente. Before I got onto the expressway, I made the first fuel stop. I filled up the tank for € 41. The price per liter super was € 1,35 and it seemed to be a regulated price all over the island, because I had not seen a different one on any of the gas stations I had passed so far. They luckily had an ATM there – that saved me from going back into town to find one – I stocked up on cash as well.
The VE 1 expressway was leading all the way to Santana where it sort of ended suddenly. It looked like the extension was under construction, though. While it was fast going on the expressway, it had been mostly tunnels crossing under the mountains. In fact, the tunnel that connects Faial to Santana is with 3168 meters the longest in Portugal. But from Santana on it was only side roads with wonderful views again.
In São Jorge I turned off towards the coast. There was geocache hidden near a viewpoint. Spotting a sign for Café Cabo Aéreo I decided it might be time for some lunch, after all it was around 16:00 now. The road was very narrow and exceptionally steep with many sharp bends. While I was inching down the now dry road being happy it was not raining anymore, I had time to throw a glance at the vineyards I was passing. Shame I could not stop and have a closer took, but they really looked different from vineyards I have seen in Germany and France.
Reaching the end of the road, I parked the car next to the Café and took a short walk to find that secret box. It was another quick find just next to the path – not under rocks this time, but in a tree stump. Unfortunately the logbook was all wet, but I was still able to sign it.
That accomplished I went to check out the Café. Next to the parking lot they had a barbeque going. It looked like a private picnic party, so I did not pay too much attention to it.
Instead I went to enjoy the view down to Calhau São Jorge and the roaring sea. There is a hiking trail going down and up the other side of the valley right by the coast. I might have to come back here one day to go there. There apparently are 16th century ruins of an old sugar mill down there.
A waitress came out the Café and welcomed me warmly. She asked if I came to have lunch, they had Espetada today. Do not mind if I do! The weather was to inconsistent to sit outside with a view, but they had a glass fronted Veranda and I took a table there. The view from there was good, too. Only another tourist couple occupied one of the few tables. I overheard them to be German as well when they were leaving shortly after I had arrived. Not everybody eats lunch as late as I do sometimes …
I ordered the Espetada of course, a salad and a mini Super Bock beer. Espetada is a traditional Madeiran dish – not to be confused with that other popular Madeira dish Espada! Although these 2 dishes are very similar in name – they are totally different. Espetada is a meat dish and Espada is fish, like I had the other day in Jardim do Mar.
It was not long until the boss himself – I had seen him manning the barbeque outside – served my Espetada – Beef traditionally grilled on a bay laurel skewer. The meat, after being cut into cubes and before being grilled, is seasoned with salt, pepper, garlic and bay leaf. It is then grilled over hot coals or wood chips.
I had ordered medium rare and was not disappointed. The meat was delicious. I relished it. It was so good. Besides being a seafood person I am also a meat person, preferably beef.
Once I had devoured everything I went inside the bar to pay my bill. And what can I say … the bar was packed with locals having coffee or drinks. While I had lunch I had seen a couple of people come and go, but otherwise this place had looked rather deserted. I had been wrong! It was packed. You know what they say – Just go where the locals go and you cannot go wrong! Instinctively I had found the right place.
My bill was very reasonable, that beef skewer was only € 10 … all together with the salad and 2 beers it added up to just under € 17. The boss was socializing at the bar as well and we chatted a bit … you know … Where are you from? … How long are you staying? … You have no luck with the weather … He was a happy person and he told me I had to have the special drink! … He produced a jug with freshly mixed Maracuja Poncha from behind the counter and poured me one … Stop, stop! I have to drive! … It was the best Poncha I had so far!
Leaving the Café I headed back up a different road towards the main road. In the center ov the village I stopped by the Igreja Matriz de São Jorge – the village church – which was built in 1761 and is considered being the largest Baroque style church in the area. In addition to its grandiose portico, its interior had a high altar in gold carving and a beautiful set of paintings. I had a quick look inside. It was undeniably impressive.
The small village has approx 1500 inhabitants and was founded in 1515. It benefited from the patronage of King Manuel I of Portugal who donated many of the pieces and religious artifacts to the first Church of São Jorge. Behind the church the geocache was hidden behind a sign under a beautiful pink flowering Camellia bush.
I found the pretty box without problems and then took some time to admire the beautiful Camellia flowers. he Camellia Japonica – known as Common Camellia or Japanese Camellia – is sometimes called the Rose of Winter. In the wild, it is found in mainland China, Taiwan, Southern Korea and southern Japan. It grows in forests, at altitudes of around 300–1100 m.
It is said that the Camellia was first brought to the West in 1692 by Engelbert Kaempfer, Chief Surgeon to the Dutch East India Company. He brought details of over 30 varieties back from Asia. Camellias were then introduced into Europe during the 18th century and had already been cultivated in the Orient for thousands of years. Robert James of Essex is thought to have brought back the first live Camellia to England in 1739. Upon returning from his journey to Japan Swedish Botanist Carl Peter Thunberg donated 4 specimens of Camellia Japonica to the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew in 1779 – One specimen remained in Kew, whereas the other 3 are said to have been passed on to Hanover, Schönbrunn and Pillnitz. If that legend is true, the Pillnitz Camellia would be the only surviving plant. But this fact is for sure – in 1801 the Pillnitz Camellia was planted in the place where it is still today. It is estimated to be 250 years old. It has reached a height of almost 9 m and has a diameter of almost 12 m. During its time of blossom from mid-February to April, tens of thousands of bell-shaped carmine flowers appear. I think I have seen it only once blooming so far, even though Pillnitz is just around the corner from my hometown.
Going West I had to follow ER 101. The road was winding its way along the valleys half way up the cliffside. The view were beautiful – the lushy green landscape was sprinkled with whitewashed houses with bright orange roofs.
Another viewpoint – of course with a geocache hidden nearby – offered a great view over the next settlement. Arco de São Jorge is a unique village by the seaside, surrounded by mountains and vineyards. It has a population of only approx 520 and the name derives from the arc shaped mountains nearby.
The outlook platform was lined by many blue flowering Agapanthus Praecox – commonly known as African Lily or Flower of Love. However, they are not lilies and all of the species are native to Southern Africa. Nowadays they are cultivated throughout warm areas of the world. Agapanthus is perennial that mostly bloom in summer. The leaves are basal, curved and linear, growing up to 60 cm long. They are rather leathery and arranged in 2 opposite rows. The inflorescence is a pseudo-umbel subtended by two large deciduous bracts at the apex of a up to 2 m tall stem. They have funnel-shaped or tubular flowers, in hues of blue to purple, shading to white.
I was immediately reminded of home – we have 3 huge pots with those flowers on the terrace and during spring lockdown I had tended to them. They made also a nice back drop for my food photos … Unfortunately I missed them in full bloom, because I was lucky enough to be able to work the river cruises in France from mid-July to mid-September. When I had to return due to the official travel warning of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the resulting cancellation of the cruises, they were mostly faded, but still visited by the resident Aglais Io – the European Peacock – more commonly known simply as the Peacock Butterfly.
Since it was getting late – I had told the people from the guesthouse I would pick up the key around 16:00 and I still had a few kilometers ahead – I quickly found the secret box and signed the logbook. It was hard to tear away from the view here as well. There was blue sky on the horizon … maybe the weather would be clearing up in the next days?
The road led around the mountains down towards the shoreline and passed above the village of Arco de São Jorge. Along the road was another geocache hidden. I stopped where a path forked off towards the village. Apparently there is a Wine Museum, but I did not have the time to check it out. I just looked for the secret box.
The hint in the listing only mentioned “Caminho do Lombo” and I figured it would somewhere by this sign. Looking around I saw nothing what looked remotely like a logbook container … then I had an idea … I have seen my fair share of geocache hides … the only possibility here was maybe the end of the sign post … I climbed up on the rail next to the sign post and felt the top … Aahhh … the container was stuck in the top of the post … quickly I signed the logbook and climbed down … a couple of local ladies had been walking up the road and had already eyed me suspiciously … Bom dia! … and off I was again …
I did catch a glimpse of the Wine Museum and the vineyards of the village. Here they were different from the vineyard I had seen earlier in São Jorge. They seemed to use the same training system like in France or Germany. Training a vine is an art, a way to coax the plant into producing the optimal fruit to be turned into wine. A vine’s natural tendency is to focus growth on ample vegetation, allowing it to twine its tendrils and climb. Left to its own devices, a vine will apparently only bear fruit once its shoots reach the top of a tree canopy. Therefore vineyards are planted, pruned and cultivated in intricate ways based on many factors – for example the climate – the soil – water availability – steep, sloping or flat areas – possible mechanization – wine style – regional laws etc. Certain European appellations require particular training methods – planting density, direction and canopy height are also taken into account.
In this particular vineyard it looked like the vines were cane-pruned – the Guyot method used for the Sercial and Malvasia varieties or even for the Tinta Negra here on Madeira. The vine is pruned to the trunk apart from 1 or 2 shoots which will bear fruit and canopy. This style is globally used, but mainly in Bordeaux and Burgundy – Aaah! This is where I knew it from! – With this training method it is possible to plant densities of about 4000 to 5000 plants per hectare, famed regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy even have up to 10000 vines per hectare.
There were more spectacular views along the ever winding road. A few kilometers on around Boaventura the expressway continued and I passed Ponta Delgada completely. But a long tunnel lead under the next mountain – I however wanted to see the coast … So at the next possible exit I turned off back onto the secondary road which followed the coast. I was close to São Vincente already and did not have to rush.
At Baía dos Juncos located on the Fajã da Areia site near São Vicente, I parked the car once more and went for a walk to find another hidden box. This place is one of several places on the island of Madeira where surfing is practiced. It is a very popular Surfzone and offers excellent conditions for observation of this sport from land. A promenade is linking this surfzone to the Naval Club of São Vicente. It has a length of approx 600 m and made for a nice walk while enjoying the scenery. Today there was almost nobody around … because of the weather most probably. No surfers were out either … also because of the weather most probably. It was not raining, but the wind was blowing strong on shore.
The secret box was a hard one … it should not have been since it was only a traditional, but as I had noticed earlier, my GPS app seemed to act up today … The marker was a good 20 m off from the spot where I eventually found the box. The hint – covered by rocks – was not helping much since the area was also covered in low trailing Tropaeolum Majus – known as Garden Nasturtium, Indian Cress or Monks Cress – an easily-grown annual with disc-shaped leaves and brilliant orange or red flowers. The flowers were beautiful and reminded me of my grandparents garden … but the tendrils and leaves were just covering everything … it was a hassle to find the container.
Nevermind, I did not give up … there was nobody around who could have wondered what the crazy person was doing there turning every rock under all the green … And then all of a sudden I had the comparably large box in hand!
Here the logbook was wet as well – I guess the rain of the last days was taking its toll. I have a proper geocaching pen, though, that writes on wet paper, overhead and – believe it! – up to -30°C! Well, it was not that cold on Madeira … but I had used pens like that when travelling Siberia in winter a couple of years ago and also when visiting Greenland to see the northern lights in winter 2015. Both times temperatures were well below -25°C and the pens worked!
Less than a kilometer up the road I reached Calhau São Vincente. The village itself is set in one of the most beautiful valleys on Madeira. Compared to the extension of the village into the valley, the coastal part seemed very short, but very busy. On the short stretch of approx 300 m a cluster of restaurants was facing the roaring ocean. Parked cars lined the narrow road and there were more people around than I had seen in one spot so far on the island. It seemed a popular place amongst locals on a Saturday night … considering that there were not many tourists around. There was no other hotel in this spot. I did a drive-by to see where my Porto Abrigo Guesthouse was located and where I could park. Of course everything was occupied. I had to turn a circle and then drive around the corner into the valley, where a larger parking space was available. I left the car and everything there and went to find the Porto Abrigo Wine Bar where I was supposed to get the key for my holiday apartment.
It was 17:30 and I was a good hour late for the appointment, but I should have not worried. I mean, I had paid for the 2 nights online already … With so many people around – it felt rather crowded comparably – I put my facemask on while walking. The Wine Bar was not busy at all – no customers there yet. I suppose it was too early. The guy there first did not know what I wanted, but he could not reach the responsible person and eventually he kind of remembered … I had to show him my booking however so he could be sure he gave me the right key … Nevertheless I am pretty sure there are only 3 apartments there and I was the only guest for now …
The apartment was just next door up some outside stairs. It was a one-bedroom with bathroom, kitchenette and balcony. I went up to drop my bag before I was going to get the rest of my stuff. Prior to walking back to the car, I saw that right in front of the stairs there was a spot empty. Yeah! I briskly run back to the car and drove it to the guesthouse. The spot was still vacant and I parked. When I grabbed the suitcase I saw a sign stating it was a max 30 min parking zone … damn … I put the suitcase in the apartment and returned for the provisions bag. Before I took it I went in the Wine Bar once more and asked the guy about the parking. He said at this time it was OK to park in that spot for the night … nobody is checking anymore this late … So I left the car there where I could see it.
The apartment was spacious enough for me and looked exactly like on the photos … maybe not as big. It was not as clean as I had expected, though. The window in the small bathroom was open and the wind had blown leaves inside … OK, I can live with that … But it seemed they also had forgotten to vacuum the rugs … well, I could live with that as well and just walk around them … I am not so picky … and for € 35 per night in this location and last minute … I was not complaining.
I have to say, though, under regular circumstances … in high season and good weather … this was probably not a place to relax. There was the Wine Bar downstairs and a large outside seating area right in front of the balcony with several restaurants left and right … It might be a noisy spot …
For now I just went for a walk to check out the surroundings. I bypassed the restaurants … I was not hungry since I had such a late lunch. There was a supermarket a couple of doors down. I love supermarkets and went to check it out. I did not need anything, but bought a bottle of Brisa Maracuja – the liter bottle was on sale … I heard about it before – The Brisa brand has a similar reputation in Madeira as Coca Cola has anywhere in the world. The sweet lemonade is made by the Empresa de Cervejas Brewery and is available in different flavors. Apparently, the boxoffice hit is Brisa Maracuja – whatelse on an island that has apparently 8 different types of Passion Fruit growing here. It was good, I liked it … especially with Vodka …
29.11.20
88 km North Coast
It had been raining all night! In fact it was pouring down … I got up early and was not sure what to do in this rain …
There was no breakfast included here, but I had bought some fruits and juice. However, next door was a bakery and from the looks of it, it was a popular spot amongst the locals. So I went down and bought some bread and a Maracuja Cake as well. Together is was € 1,80 – Are you sure? – Yes! – OK …
I set up a nice Sunday breakfast spread with a view. It was pouring down with rain still and the waves were crashing even bigger then last night. That view was definitely worth to stay here. I took my time and tried to decide what to do today. The mountains were still in the cards … and it did look as if maybe the sun would come out eventually.
Around 09:15 the rain had almost stopped and I got going. São Vincente is located pretty much in the center of the North coast and from here the VE 4 leads through the Túnel da Encumeada straight to the south connecting it very well with the South coast. But I was not going to the South today … I was determined to see the mountains or the North coast.
I did not take the main road into the valley, but rather followed local routes through the village. There was secret box hidden on a viewpoint above the São Vicente Caves which were formed 890000 years ago by a volcanic eruption. The caves were first reported in 1885 by locals, and opened to the public in 1996. I read somewhere they were closed at the moment under the circumstances, but I was not sure. Anyway, I did not have them in my plan. The box was a swift find and the viewpoint offered a wonderful view down the river valley towards the North coast. The sun was out over the coast! Believe it!
Taking the local road through the village I soon reached the ER 228 road leading up to the pass … Boca da Encumeada … I hoped I would reach it today! The drive up was scenic. Rainbows were showing up again.
I reached the pass at 1007 m – unbelievably – in sunshine! It was just a junction here, but a geocache was hidden behind the sign. Unfortunately the logbook was soaking wet and not even my fancy pen could sign it … so photolog.
The pass is practically in the middle of the island and separates the rugged East with the Pico Ruivo as the highest mountain from the expanse of the Paul da Serra plateau in the West. Somehow I was sort of above the clouds now … not much view towards the north … however to the South it was hazy but I could almost make out the ocean in the far distance.
It looked as if the ER 110 – which branches off at the pass and leads up to Paul da Serra, the largest and most extensive plateau of Madeira with an altitude average of about 1500 m – was open … but my hopes were shattered less than a kilometer up the road … already the first tunnel was closed! And it started to rain again … What a shame! Allegedly this road is often closed due to rockfalls or landslides … Oh well.
So I moved on … since I did not want to go to the South coast, I turned towards São Vincente again driving towards the North coast. More rainbows – even double ones – appeared in the valley. A rainbow is a meteorological phenomenon that is caused by reflection, refraction and dispersion of light in water droplets resulting in a spectrum of light appearing in the sky. It takes the form of a multicoloured circular arc. Rainbows caused by sunlight always appear in the section of sky dirctly opposite the sun. In a primary rainbow, the arc shows red on the outer part and violet on the inner side. In a double rainbow, a second arc is seen outside the primary arc and has the order of its colours reversed, with red on the inner side of the arc. This is caused by the light being reflected twice on the inside of the droplet before leaving it.
Rainbows caused by sunlight always appear in the section of sky directly opposite the sun. In a primary rainbow, the arc shows red on the outer part and violet on the inner side. In a double rainbow, a second arc is seen outside the primary arc and has the order of its colours reversed, with red on the inner side of the arc. This is caused by the light being reflected twice on the inside of the droplet before leaving it.
On the way up I had already noticed some rather large vineyards. I stopped to take some photos, because as soon as I left the pass altitude the rain paused again and there was blue sky on the horizon.
The vineyards so much reminded me so much of those I had seen in India near Bengaluru. Here on Madeira, wine is grown from sea level up to an altitude of approx 650 m on the South coast and approx 450 m on the North coast. Due to the climate the lower reaches of the South coast are occupied by banana plantations and wine is planted on higher ground. This traditional vine training system here is the Pergola or Latada method. A high, horizontal trellis system supported overhead by wires and by stakes in the ground. This training method is suitable for planting densities of about 2500 to 4000 plants per hectare.
The pergola’s dense leaf canopy overhead hinders ventilation and solar radiation, while limited mechanization makes it expensive, though. In coastal areas like here on Madeira, the pergola training method makes the most of sea breeze, allowing the natural airflow to ventilate the free-hanging grapes and prevent fungal disease.
Reaching São Vincente I took a tiny detour up a small road into a residential area on a viewpoint above the village to find another geocache. It was pretty much a drive in, I parked the car right next to the viewpoint. Before I searched, I was distracted by the view, however. It was a spectacular outlook into the valley.
The sun seemed to be fighting the clouds and I could even see the mountains around the pass I had been to before. The misty air made for a stunning photo. Prominently stood the Capelinha de Nossa Senhora de Fátima – the Chapel of Our Lady Fatima – on top of Pico da Cova. It is difficult to pass through São Vicente and not to notice the clock tower on the hill. The chapel was built between 1942 and 1953 as a way to celebrate the end of World War II. In the clock tower – which is approx 14 m high – there are 4 intriguing clocks – one on each facade of the building. Apparently all showing a different time … Of course, I cannot verify that, I was too far away …
Tearing myself away from the view I looked for the secret box. It was an easy hide, but it took me a while to find it. In the end the photos other finders had taken and posted as well as the cacher instinct let me be successful one more time.
While sun and bluish sky had overtaken the coast, the waves were still as big as this morning. So I parked the car by the supermarket, grabbed all my camera gear and went for a walk along the coast.
The huge waves were just mesmerizing. I could have watched for hours. I could easily see why this was a popular surf spot – the waves were breaking and roaring into shore. The spray reaching high. There were no surfers out today, though.
The sun was coming through the valley now. It was an absolutely magnificent view with the high cliffs on the side of the valley and the crashing waves covering the coast in a fine mist. It made for a mystic photo.
A secret box was hidden across the road up a ramp. It should have been a quick one, but obviously the box had slipped deeper behind the wall and the rain had done its deed as well … I had to stick my hand far under the bushes and fumble in mud … but I found it … the logbook was dry … but after I signed it a few muddy smudges adorned the page …
Reluctantly I walk back to the car … I could watch the waves for hours … I had decided to take the coastal road West towards Porto Moniz. Only a kilometer or so along there was the Cascata Água d’Alto – a more than 100 m tall waterfall. It was right next to the road directly at the entrance of a road tunnel.
The stream was plunging down along a very steep cliff towards the sea. I assume with the weather it was even stronger than usual. The stream was flowing into the sea below the road. The waterfall was supposedly a very popular spot for canyoning. I had seen photos of that on the internet. The lack of adventurers doing that was probably not only due to the weather, but also to the time of year – November is offseason after all – and of course the circumstances.
The expressway VE2 had replaced the old road that had been built in the 1950s – it is considered the most dramatic and demanding road that has to be done at least once in a lifetime being the definitive road to get to know the coastline to the North. The new and much safer road had more tunnels and therefore was faster. At all tunnels there were still the old road Antiga ER 101 traversing along the coast – unfortunately most of them were closed due to former landslides or rockfall or just because of the weather. Nevertheless after every turn and tunnel I was carried away by the beauty of nature at the coastline.
“For my part, I travel not to go anywhere but to go. I travel for travel’s sake.
The great affair is to move.”
Robert Louis Stevenson
Soon I came by the Véu da Noiva viewpoint. Parking the car in the lot by the road I walked down to the viewing platform which is located on the old road. Véu da Noiva translates to Bride’s Veil – the waterfall takes its name from the water rushing with great force down the cliff forming spray resembling a white veil. At this time of the day the light was not so favourable for taking photos. It is said to be best for sunrise. Now the waterfall was in the shade.
In 2008 a landslide caused a lot of damage to the old cliff side road which is therefore closed now. The only place to observe the waterfall is now from that platform which is bordered by a small garden with a few beautiful Strelitzia .
Towards the West there was a splendid view over the village of Seixal and even further down the coast to Porto Moniz. They were all bathed in sunshine! I was going in the right direction!
For the first time I saw the Agave Attenuata – known as the Lion’s Tail, Swan’s Neck or Foxtail – blooming close up. The curved inflorescence is unusual among Agaves. They made a great photo with the view.
The inflorescence is a dense raceme 2.5 to 3 m high and usually curved with greenish-yellow flowers, growing after many years. Close up they looked rather intricate and complex. Really beautiful.
As well there were wild growing Calla Palustris – known as Marsh Calla, Wild Calla or Water Arum – a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial plant. The greenish-yellow inflorescence is produced on a spadix approx 4–6 cm long and enclosed in a white spathe.
Driving along the gaze automatically went to the right, of course, to the ocean. But I did not ignore the left side of the road either. Breathtaking panoramic views, barren cliffs, rocky balconies high above the Atlantic, waterfalls cascading down the green mountains, small and contemplative stone houses dotted the terraced slopes.
A little later one piece of the Antiga ER 101 was open – most of those old parts had been closed, but here one short part bypassing a new tunnel was open. I have to say … only a hundred meters in I kind of regretted taking it … it was sooooo narrow … steep cliffs on either side … and the rainy weather had left lots of rocks, leaves and branches on the road. However, it was a cool section of the road and I really enjoyed it in the end … I was happy to reach the main road again, though.
I reached the village of Seixal and drove into the village. A geocache was hidden right close to the turn off and I did a quick stop to sign the logbook. It was once more located in a strategic spot – the view over the terraced village below was extraordinary … especially because the sun was out and the ocean glistered in a deep blue contrasting to the black sand of the beach, the whitewashed houses and orange roofs. Seixal has approx 650 inhabitants and its name origins from the abundance of pebbles on the beach. Agricultural fields – often vineyards – line the slopes of Seixal. However, the place is especially known for its black sand beach and the natural swimming pools, the picinas naturais.
Only one road was leading down into the village. I bypassed the beach and went for the natural pools at the opposite end of the village. Parking the car at the designated parking lot I took the cameras I went to see if I could walk down to the pools. From up there I had a fantastic view towards the sunny Porto Moniz with a beautiful rainbow over the ocean.
An Earth Cache and a secret box were hidden down by the natural pools. However, I was not lucky … the road leading down was closed of … Did I want to step over the tape like a couple of other people? … Did I want to walk down the steep hill and then back up again? …
No, I was too lazy … The view was outstanding from up here anyway … I stayed at the viewpoint above and took some photos. With those waves the secret box was not reachable anyway and the answers for the Earth Cache I will just make up later …
Since it was only around midday, I figured I drive around some more and maybe do a little hike. So I took the ER 221 from Seixal to Chão da Ribeira, a 400 m high rural settlement nestled in a valley overlooking Seixal. The valley of a seasonal river was occupied by terraced farmland and old tool sheds built of natural stones, which created a rather rustic setting. Many of those tiny stone houses looked abandoned, but obviously a fair number of them have now been lovingly restored and get used as weekend or tourist domiciles. Once the steep and narrow road had climbed into the valley it was lined with vineyards and agricultural fields.
This valley is characterized by a large part of the laurel forest lining the slopes on both sides. In the center of the village a secret box was hidden … with the hint – under the road – … it was sort of a drive in with a large parking lot next to the GPS marker and I just took the pen when going on the search. It was still sunny and the valley was sheltered from the wind by the high mountains on 3 sides. I eventually found the box far off the coordinates on the other side of the road indeed in a hole under the asphalt …
Driving further into the valley – it was a sort of cul-de-sac – dark grey clouds rolled in from somewhere. When I reached the end of the asphalted road it started to look really dark already. I parked the car and quickly walked a couple hundred meters to find the next secret box. It was an unspectacular find, because I saw it already from afar under a bush. There was an old economic road leading to a trout farm and then a hiking trail further into the valley. With the weather turning, I opted against a hike and took the small Caminho da Fonte down again. Half way down the valley I stopped for another quick geocache. It was easy as well right beside of the road.
And just when I had signed the logbook a torrential downpour started and I quickly jumped back in the car. It was not funny driving in that rain and the narrow road downhill, but what can I say … a few minutes later I left the rain behind and reached the sun.
The last bit of the road down to the VE 2 was the steepest. And there was enough oncoming traffic – I had to concentrate on driving the sharp turns. But the view over the coast was spectacular. I was creeping down to be able to enjoy it. The Véu da Noiva was clearly visible down the coast and made for great backdrop.
Coming further down I stopped next to a vineyard – I had to have a closer look. Here there were Pergolas once more. Grapevines are ideal for creating those green roof style Pergolas. The density of the foliage can be controlled by reducing the number of yearly new shoots through rigorous winter pruning.
For such green roofs, only the main arms of the vine or the old wood are tied to posts or wires of the pergola. The new fruiting shoots first grow straight up, but will eventually bend under their own weight until they end up lying on the trellis and getting entangled with each other. It did remind me tremendously of the vineyards I walked through in Nandi Hills in India earlier this year, only that over there the Pergola was much higher and seemed therefore much older.
From that vineyard I had an exceptional view over sunny Seixal once more. The waves were crashing over the natural pools – it looked awesome from above.
