27.11.2020
109 km Central South Coast
From Ponta do Sol I took VE 3 East. I stopped for a quick secret box in the next settlement Lugar de Baixo. I parked the car and walked a hundred meters up a residential road. I found the cache quickly, but the view was not so good … there was a ruined property, basically a waste area below at the shore unfortunately. But there were beautiful yellow flowering bushes surrounding the secret box.
At the next traffic circle near Tabua – I said before there were many traffic circles on the island – I did not continue at the VE 3 but followed the sign “acesso local” along the shore toward Ribeira Brava along the coast. It was most probably the old road but it was renovated beautifully and was now a one way traffic promenade with a wide pedestrian path that was used by joggers and walkers alike. I drove to the end and there was a parking lot. I have to admit, I did not pay the parking fee … even though there was a big sign … I was only going to sort of run 300 m to a secret box and come back … and my ticket from Ponta do Sol still had 15 min on it … I put it behind the windshield and hoped for the best … I could always play stupid … I do not speak Portuguese … Quickly I walked along the promenade and as quickly I found the cache … I had left the camera in the car and forgot to take photos with the mobile …
In Ribeira Brava there was no suitable geocache for me and somehow the town did not appeal to me either. I really do not know why, but I just passed it and kept following the country road up the cliff and along the cliffside towards the East. The views were as always spectacular along the way. There was one secret box I aimed to stop and find in Campanário, but seemingly next to the cache was a snack stall and I could not see a parking space when passing … so I kept going …
The road was following the cliff weaving in and out of valleys half way up the cliffside. White houses with the typical orange tiled roofs were scattered between terraced banana plantations. There was another highly rated geocache by the road side in Vera Cruz. It was a difficulty 5 rating but terrain 1.5 … I aimed for it and found a parking spot next to the road. Beautiful sunshine it was and I took the camera to first take some photos of Campanário below. Some documents indicate that this settlement was founded in 1556. An impressive church sat in the center of the valley and was a magnificent landmark.
The panoramic view over the valley and the expressway below was as remarkable. It is absolutely amazing that the expressway leads through tunnels and over bridges along the coast and just melts into the landscape …
The geocache was just a few meters up the road and when I got out of the car I could already see a couple of people searching … I can recognize other geocachers from a mile way … it is as if we have written Geocacher on our foreheads when we try to be stealthy … The mobile in hand and looking at it frequently is an indication as is looking into every crack and cranny since it could be a possible hiding spot … a cache could be hidden anywhere very well camouflaged or in plain sight … And those guys were oozing “I am a geocacher!” … So first I took my photos and while doing so I always had them in sight in the corner of my eyes … another car parked and 2 more people came along and all 4 of them chatted and obviously they had found the secret box.
So I put my camera in the car and grabbed my stamp and demonstratively walked up to the group and said – Oh! Hey! You found it! – Yes, we did! – Great. That saves me from searching! – Well, we did not find it, but the owners of the cache happened to pass by and helped us! – Oh, you are German!? – Yes! – Cool. You mind, if I sign the logbook and leave a TB? – No. Go ahead! … So I quickly stamped the logbook, left the 3rd of the TBs I had brought and waved them all Good-bye! Off I was again. Did not even take a photo …
It was a beautiful following the coast now. The views were just breathtaking, it was warm and sunny most of the time. I drove with both windows down. Only every now and then a little rain shower forced me to pull them up again … but it also produced more rainbows …
Taking an even smaller side road I soon reached Cabo Girão. I could only find a small car park along the road … but many parking spaces for tour busses … only there were absolutely no tour busses en route at the moment … I parked alongside another car in the bus lot. Just as I started to get out of the car it started drizzling again … just a little shower … I put the cameras in my backpack, pulled my hood up and braved the elements … only a few minutes later it stopped and the sun came out, though …
The Cabo Girão Skywalk is one of Madeira’s most popular tourist attractions – in a regular year there would be approx 1800 tourist visits a day … There was a large complex with a couple of souvenir shops and a Café to accommodate the crowds … Also there would be a small entrance fee in peak season … today I was almost alone and the turnsile was open to pass freely … I met no more than 8 other tourists here … that was also the highest concentration of tourists I had encountered so far on the island … apart from in the hotel.
Cabo Girão is a lofty sea cliff located along the Southern coast of the island and has become a popular viewpoint. I had been drawn here by a Virtual Cache named Are you a Skywalker? Part of the skywalk platform is made of glass. To log this Virtual Cache I had to stand on the glass and take a photo … and so I did. It took a while to get the right angle for the photo … I was busy … Friends saw the photos afterwards and applauded me for being so brave and stand over the abyss … Really? I never even thought about the height …
I had just pulled out my selfie stick – Yes, I know! Some call it the Stick of Idiots, but hey … travelling solo it is the best thing to have! I never liked very much giving my camera or mobile to other people to take a photo – it often does not turn out as I imagined it anyway – and certainly should not do it in the new normal … I mean, we do not shake hands anymore, socially distance and disinfect our hands all the time … would giving the camera to a stranger not be contra productive? … Anyway, my Stick of Idiots is my favourite gadget and I have friends that can vouch for me taking the best photos with it, even when travelling in a group!
The Cabo Girão Skywalk might be the highest cliff skywalk in Europe. A diamond-shaped sea-cliff escarpment from 560 – 589 m above sea level, it lies between 2 valleys with rivers that flow into the Atlantic Ocean. The cliffs extend approx 3 km between the urban sprawl of Câmara de Lobos to the East and the river-valley of Quinta Grande in the West. With the platform being 580 m above sea level and a multilingual sign on the glass stating that, the views here were breathtaking. I could not get enough.
The view through the glass did not bother me at all, but on the sides next to the glass, the platform was partly made of seethrough metal grill and that gave me some jitters … mainly the sensation – if the car key or the mobile or anything else would fall out of my pocket or hand, it would go right through the grill, tumble down the cliff and be lost forever … So I stayed on the glass and submersed myself in the thrilling views down the almost sheer drop.
Far below the sheer cliff I could clearly make out the cultivated Fajãs de Cabo Girão. An Earth Cache was located at the platform as well which dealt with this subject, so I had to do some research to find the answers to log this cache. A fajã is a Portuguese-language term of obscure origin designating supratidal talus-platform geology constructed from landslides or lava flows, that are relatively common coastal features, occurring on the toe of cliffs. Although they exist throughout the world, they are distinct features of the islands of the Azores and Madeira. The term also designates a flat land of small extension, generally located by the sea and cultivable, formed of materials detached from the cliffs. Fajãs are identifiable along the coast as flat surfaces. Tides and tidal currents are minor influencers of the coastal morphology and therefore, sedimentation and deposits became permanent. Composed of fertile soils, these microclimates allow the cultivation of a variety of staple and exotic plants. The Fajãs de Cabo Girão were at one time only accessible by boat. In 2003, a cable car was installed on the slope of the cliff so farmers could reach these low-lying fields.
According to locals, at 580 m height Cabo Girão is the highest sea cliff in Europe. However, wikipedia lists at least 8 sea cliffs in Europe that are higher … Apparently Roque Fañeque on Gran Canaria with 1027 m above the Atlantic Ocean is the highest and even the Norwegian cliff at Preikestolen has a 604 m drop, so Girão may only be one amongst many in Europe … at least it seems to be in the Top 10. Sea cliffs at Table Mountain in South Africa and some in Hawaii fall over 1000 m into the sea as well. It might most probably be the skywalk with the highest drop below in Europe. And it seems that only the Tianmen Cliff-Hanging Walkway & Skywalk in China is higher in the world. Almost 1.5 km long and clinging to the mountain at a height of 1400 m, that walkway features a section constructed from glass known as The Walk of Faith. I think, now this one is also on my list, too …
The high sea cliffs found around 80% of the coast of Madeira result from the sea erosion to which the island, created by volcanic eruptions between 20 and 1.7 mio years ago, is permanently subjected. To the East I could see Câmara de Lobos and even Funchal in the far distance. I could hardly tear away from the magnificent views …
Eventually making my way back to the car I noticed the Eucalyptus Trees surrounding the complex. I had noticed them for the first time earlier today in the mountains and wondered how they got here. There was a simple explanation. Due to geographical isolation, the islands ecosystems are abundant with species that can be found only in this place. Discovered some 600 years ago – as if places and people did not exist unless someone drew them on a map – Madeira Island quickly became very densely populated. For human settlement, people found it necessary to demolish the mighty forest that was so uselessly humming and the first colonists, by systematic burning of the local flora, sent to smoke a large part of the laurel forests that used to cover Madeira, which gave its name – madeira to Portuguese means wood. The islands’ trees were cut for their timber, the wild was converted into pastures, fields or residential areas.
Later it was realized forest was still needed … Some fast-growing tree species were brought in. Planting species that are convenient for economic viability became a common practice and at first seemed like a good idea. However, time has shown that these trees are known to suppress natural vegetation, which can bring with it a number of fatal consequences for the ecosystem. On Madeira Island, one of these species is Eucalyptus Globulus – commonly known as Southern Blue Gum – a tall, evergreen tree endemic to southeastern Australia. It has mostly smooth bark, glossy green, lance-shaped leaves, glaucous, ribbed flower buds, white flowers and woody fruit. Eucalyptus has spread extensively on the South slope of Madeira, displacing native species. Accustomed to harsh Australian conditions, it is a dangerous competitor – cutting it led only to scattering the seeds even more and a handful of new shoots would emerge from the trunk. Burning does more harm than good, because Eucalyptus seeds are used to wildfires, so the fire allows them to sprout. Now the exotic Blue Gum is the most abundant tree in Portugal, covering about 7% of the land. I shall encounter them repeatedly during the next days.
I left Cabo Girão and the Eucalyptus Trees behind and before I took the side road towards Câmara de Lobos I made a quick detour to the main road to put another smiley on my geocaching map. The secret box was conveniently hidden by the roadside with a parking space next to it and a stunning view towards the village of Quinta Grande located in the river valley below.
From there I drove back towards Cabo Girão and then through residential areas to Câmara de Lobos. The roads were narrow and steep at times with sharp turns and even smaller roads branching off into the surrounding hills and valleys.
And if it was not narrow enough, parking was apparently allowed alongside the road … There were so many cars parked everywhere and with oncoming traffic – I met the local bus again and also a couple of construction lorries – and the winding road it made for an adventurous ride once more. There was a speed limit of 30 km/h most of the time, but there was no way I could have gone faster anyway.
Reaching Câmara de Lobos traffic got thicker and I had to concentrate even more to find my way around. There were some one-way-streets in town as well, but I just followed the signs to the center and ended up right next to the fishing harbour. At the machine I pull a parking ticket for € 1 and placed it in the car before going to explore.
Câmara de Lobos is technically a suburb of the capital city of Funchal. The location of the modern town is believed to be the original landing point for the Portuguese discoverer João Gonçalves Zarco, who is credited with the discovery of the Madeira Islands. When the explorer disembarked in this area in 1419, he observed a narrow rocky peninsula that extended into the ocean and another nearby that formed an amphitheatre-like harbour that could shelter ships from Atlantic storms. There, Zarco and his men also found a large colony of marine animals that would become the reason for naming this area Câmara de Lobos – the sailors literally christened it the Municipal Chamber of the place where there are sealions. Today, the species of Monk Seals are only found in a small colony on the Desertas Islands.
The town was not very busy today … still there were more people around than I had see in one place so far. On the whole island wearing a facemask was compulsory if the necessary distance could not be observed. I always had a selection of masks at hand – one in hand, one in the jacket pocket, one in the trousers pocket, one in the car … just in case the authorities would enforce it. Anyway within shops and restaurants it was mandatory. Most people wore a mask and so did I when I was passing the narrow streets, even though there were no crowds.
There was a 2-stages Visual Cache near the fishing port and to log it I had to take 2 photos. The first was with the mural of the Lobo Marinho – the Monk Seal – the scientific name of this species is Monachus Monachus – below the lighthouse. The name Monk Seal, is due to the folds that it has in the neck, when it is at rest, that resembles a capuchin monk, and also for being an animal of solitary habits. I found the seal art very impressive and of course had to take my photo.
The trash artist Artur Bordalo – also known as Bordalo II or Bordalo Segundo – famous for using street garbage to create stunning animals sculptures so as to warn people about pollution and all types of endangered species – had created this mural as part of the celebration of World Oceans Day 2019, to raise awareness of the fact that our oceans are affected every year by approx 8 mio tons of plastic garbage. The Portuguese artist has created some 150 Trash Animals in 23 countries.
The next photo I had to take with the statue of Churchill in front of the Pousada Churchill Bay just along the promenade by the bay. Apparently, not many visitors to Madeira know that the island was a special retreat for Winston Churchill – I certainly did not until I read the listing of this geocache. For many other British aristocrats before him and up to this day, Madeira has always been the reviled destination to go to. Churchill arrived in Funchal aboard the ocean liner Durban Castle on the 2nd of January 1950. Churchill’s visit at the invitation of Reid’s Palace Hotel was a marketing campaign, because the English were the hotel’s main guests. The initiative had a great impact and the hotel, during the 1950s and 60s, returned to its golden days, with the presence of many celebrities.
Churchill occupied his time admiring the beautiful landscapes of Madeira. He was impressed with Câmara de Lobos – he came here in a Rolls Royce and in a corner, at the entrance of the village, he mounted his easel and canvas, sat down and painted the bay and the islet. The photographer Raul Perestrelo immortalized the moment. Churchill left the island aboard an English seaplane after a 10-day-stay..
Having accomplished the log requirements for the Visual Cache, it was time for lunch and I wanted to sit outside – preferably with a view of the fishing harbour. A couple of snack bar restaurants lined the harbour front and had a few outside tables. I chose the first available one closest to the water at Sunny Bar with a great view of the fishing boats. Ordering a Coral Beer, Limpets for starters and Grilled Shrimps with salad for main, the waitress talked me into some local bread … Bolo do Caco. My friend, who’s favourite place in the world is Madeira, had deeply recommended trying this local garlic bread and had praised it in highest tones … Well, I was not that hungry … but I gave in willing to try.
The Limpets were excellent – did I expect anything else? I mean, there is not much you could do wrong preparing those … They came with the Bolo do Caco, which turned out to be a flat, circular bread, shaped like a cake and thus called bolo – Portuguese for cake. It is traditionally cooked on a caco – a flat basalt stone slab. The bread is usually served with garlic butter. The portion was just too much for one person … It was OK, though, but you have to know, I am not a fan of garlic bread as such or garlic per se. I eat it and I adore the seafood cooked in it, I love genuine Indian food which always has garlic in it, but at home we just never ever use garlic at all. And I can already hear my Mom say – Oh, you smell like garlic! – the moment I walk in the house upon my return … She can smell it a mile off and a week later …
In the meantime it looked as if it would start raining again and the waitress actually asked me if I wanted to change tables, becaue mine was right in between 2 of the parasol-umbrellas covering the other tables. I declined. Only maybe 10 drops hit me and then the rain cloud was gone again.
Unfortunately the shrimps looked good, but came heavily over cooked. I love seafood … but those were not good … Nevertheless I ate them … the Bolo do Caco was however too much for me and I left 3 quarters of it. Later when I left, the waitress asked me if I wanted to have the bread take away, but I declined, since once it is cold I literally detest garlic bread … it is like cold pizza the morning after …
While I was having my lunch and enjoyed the view – some young English lads were jumping off the harbour wall into the bay having much fun and much beer – a group of old man arrived and occupied the stone table in front of the restaurant. They sat down – all in their facemasks – one pulled out a deck of playing cards and before I knew it they were deep in their round. It was a pleasantly normal scene … I am hundred percent sure it was their daily routine … and they would not let the circumstances distract them from having their game and chat and fun … All of them were wearing their mask properly – maybe the people at home should take example of that! – We would not be in a lockdown if they did … Life can go on as usual even with a mask! They were prove of that!
Across from the bay I spotted some strange looking flowers clinging to the cliffside and it soon dawned on me – those were the Agave Attenuata – also known as the Lion’s Tail, Swan’s Neck or Foxtail – I had spotted the other day in Jardim do Mar without the flower. Here they were blooming and looked really cool even from afar. The inflorescence is a dense raceme 2.5 to 3 m high and usually bent – I assume from the weight – with small greenish-yellow flowers.
I paid for lunch and went for a walk through the center. There was another secred box hidden at the other end and I wanted to look around anyway. Strolling along the seemingly pedestrian Rua São João de Deus I was fascinated with the street art covering doors and fences. They were particularly interesting, because they were partly collages made out of beverage cans and were absolutely stunning. I am a sucker for graffiti murals, but those here were different … nevertheless absolutely cool.
The secret box I found quickly in the bushes at a small viewpoint and signed the logbook. I did not even take much of a look at the view … I was distracted by something on the other side of the road that had caught my eye … Henriques & Henriques Wine Lodges & Shop Visitors Are Welcome … You are right to assume it was another of those accidental finds of mine … Of course I knew about the famous Madeira Wine and I had tried it before. I also had researched where to go for a tasting … I just did not have Câmara de Lobos on my radar for that … But hey … it was there and it kind of looked open … At least I thought so … Should I go or should I not? … I really should not, because I had do drive back to the hotel later … It was one of those times when I decided on the whim to go, because if I would not I would be forever regretting it …
“Our happiest moments as tourists always come when we stumble upon one thing
while in pursuit of something else”
Lawrence Block
The islands of Madeira have a long winemaking history, dating back to the Age of Discovery when Madeira was a standard port of call for ships heading to the New World or East Indies. To prevent the wine from spoiling, neutral grape spirits were added. On the long sea voyages, the wines would be exposed to excessive heat and movement which transformed the flavour of the wine. Today Madeira is defined as a fortified wine made only on the Madeira Islands and is produced in a variety of styles ranging from dry wines which can be consumed on their own as an aperitif to sweet wines usually consumed with dessert. This was discovered by the wine producers of Madeira when an unsold shipment of wine returned to the islands after a round trip. Madeira Wine is still made from approx 5 distinct grape varieties only … it is noted for its unique winemaking process which involves oxidizing the wine through heat and aging. And believe it – Madeira is one of the few wines that has not changed since it became popular 300 years ago … Madeira is now a Protected Designation of Origin product – PDO – meaning no other wine can use its official name.
Of course they were open and in the entrance hall they had this huge barrel sitting with a sign Boal 2004. Hmmm … Was I right to assume the wine in there is aging since 2004? … Boal is a name given to several varieties of grape cultivated in Portugal, notably in the production of medium-rich fortified wines from Madeira Island.
The show room was on the 1st floor and I followed the signs. It was a great exhibition with barrels stacked up and helpful explanation boards in 3 languages. The company of Henriques & Henriques Vinhos S. A. was founded in 1850 by João Joachim Henriques.
Several companies are nowadays associated with them – one stood out to me – Casa dos Vinhos da Madeira Lda. founded in 1932 – because they bottle the Madeira wine for the lable Sandeman located in Porto on mainland Portugal. Founded in 1790, Sandeman is not only famous for its quality port wines, but also thanks to the mysterious man on its logo – known as The Sandeman Man – created in 1928 to represent the brand. I have a – now empty – logo bottle on my shelf at home, because I have great memories of visiting Porto and Sandeman several times already – the first time on an Interrail tour in 1991 – on a shoestring and happy to have free booze – and again on a family trip for my Mom’s 60th Birthday in 2001 – it was the 2nd or even 3rd tasting of the day and selfies were not en vogue yet – and if that had not been enough I was back in 2010 on assignment cruising on MV Albatros – no time for selfies, but note the turquoise dots in the photo! …
It had not crossed my mind to return to the apparently traditional visit per decade … But I guess visiting here could count under the circumstances … I had a quick look around the H & H showroom and then got stuck next to a table set up with an icebucket full of bottles and a tray filled with tasting glasses … Was it self service? That could not be, could it? … But I needed not have worried … a woman came out of the shop next to the show room … Would you like to taste some wine? – Yeah, I would! Could I try the sweet one, please? – Oh no! You should always start with the dry and work your way to the sweetest! Have a seat and I will bring you a selection! You have to taste them all since you are here! …
She did not have to tell me twice … I took a seat on one of the few barrel tables … apart from me there were only 2 other visitor in the large room … took my mask off and waited expectantly.
H & H is one of the largest producers of Madeira Wine on the island. Contrary to most other Madeira wine producing companies H&H owns some vineyards. In 1995 they even established a new vineyard at Quinta Grande which is accessible to machines. They also built a new Adega – wine house – in Quinta Grande. All the vinification is done there. The wines then mature down here in the Belem Lodge. Here in the building also all the main offices with tasting rooms, bottling line and other facilities are located.
The tasting of the 3 year old wines was free – and I got 6 of them! Those younger blends – 3 and 5 years old – are produced with artificial methods that heat and accelerate the aging process – the estufagem method – and the older blends are produced by the canteiro method – aging in American oak casks in the warm attics of the lodge – making wines of a superior quality. Because of these methods of production the wines are very long lived and those produced by the canteiro method will survive for decades and even centuries, even after being opened. The process of heat, oxygen and time leaves a wine so beautifully abused that absolutely nothing can destroy it. Wines that have been in barrels for many decades are often removed and stored in demijohns – rigid containers with a typical capacity of 4 to 60 l – where they may remain unharmed indefinitely.
The lady told me I had to start from the left with the dryest wine and work my way to the sweetest. The tiny plastic glasses were not much bigger than a thimble and just had a tiny sip in them … I should not have worried about me having to drive afterwards … But it reminded me profoundly about me selling wine tasting tours to our guests on the French river cruises … Ladies & gentlemen, please do not compare wine tasting events in Germany with those here in France! The French only taste! That means there will only be a tiny sip in your glass and preferably they also spit out after tasting! Remember – it is only a tasting not a booze-up!
Here I it was obviousely not customary to spit … I indeed savored them all and decided the sweeter ones were more up my alley. There are apparently 4 levels of sweetness marked on every Madeiran wine label – Dry – Seco, Medium Dry – Meio Seco, Medium Sweet – Meio Doce and Sweet – Doce. And of course there are some inbetween as well …
Once I finished the tasting, I went to check out the shop. If I buy Madeira Wine, I might as well do it here, I suppose. It was well set up. I learnt some more by only wandering through it … There were several different qualities of wines – Reserve was a 5 years old – This is the minimum amount of aging a wine labeled with one of the noble varieties is permitted to have – then the 10 years Special Reserve which are wines that are often aged naturally without any artificial heat source. Over 15 years is the Extra Reserve – a rarely produced style, but if they do, producers usually extending the aging to a minimum 20 years for a vintage. Coheita or Harvest is the style that includes wines from a single vintage, but must be aged at least 20 years.
Rainwater or Rain is a style that is mild and tends to be made with Tinta Negra Mole – a red Portuguese wine grape commonly used in the production of Madeira and the most widely planted variety on the Madeira Islands – it is considered the industry’s workhorse grape and produces very high yields of sweet, pale red wine. As Finest a wine will be described when it has been aged for at least 3 years … this style is usually reserved for cooking … Hmmmm … had I just been tasting cooking wine?
They had an entire wall of the room dedicated to – what I think were Vintage wines – Frasqueira – the top of Madeira wines. Those are single grape wines from one year which have aged in a a cask for a minimum of 20 years, often more than 40 years – some are able to live for centuries. These wines are increasingly rare but are outstanding examples of wines that can last a lifetime and beyond and still remain remarkably fresh and appealing when eventually opened. I was impressed to see bottles from the 1920s lined up in the shelves … bottles like these have its price of course … Here on display were some between € 4100 and € 4500 per bottle … locked up, of course …
I bypassed those to buy some of the 3 years old wines, though. I chose the 375 ml bottles and also took a few miniatures as souvenirs. There was a 10% Christmas Sale on everything … And because I saved there I indulged in tasting a 15 years Malvasia Reserve for an extra € 3 – for that I got it properly served in a glass – rather than in a plastic cup.
Malvasia is a wine grape varieties grown historically in the Mediterranean region, Balearic Islands, Canary Islands and the island of Madeira. Fortified Malvasia – such as Madeira – are noted for their intense smokey notes and sharp acidity. As Malvasia ages, the wines tend to take on more nutty aromas and flavors though many Malvasia have a short life span of only a few years after vintage. I really loved it. So much better than the 3 years old I tasted before! However, I did not buy any even though I would have loved, too. But my suitcase will be already super heavy upon departure as it is …
I strolled back to the fishing harbour happily. Câmara de Lobos was really a pleasant town to walk around. I did not meet many people and enjoyed walk.
While having lunch near the fishing harbour I had spotted a boat called Bora Bora … I had to take a photo! What would I give to be in Bora Bora right now … I had fond memories of a fantastic time there working on the sailing ship SPV Starflyer and cruising French Polynesia for 6 months in 2008! Once a week overnight in Bora Bora! The best time!
I was even lucky enough to come back for a very quick half day visit on assignment with MV Albatros in 2012. It was a quick one, but it was great to be back. And I aim to revisit French Polynesia one day …
Now I had to be content with the photo of an old fishing boat named Bora Bora on Madeira … considering the circumstances of this special year … it was not at all that bad! The weather could have been better, though …
Dropping my shopping bag in the car, I took a quick walk up the road to the bus station. There was another geocache hidden … yeah, I know … another one! … It was tucked behind an electrical box right next to the main bus stop. There was a bus waiting … should I hang around until it left? … While the bus driver sat in it, it did not seem as if he would be getting ready to leave anytime soon … super stealthily – sometimes being absolutely obvious was the best disguise … hiding in plain sight … I walked determinedly straight to the box … looked quickly behind it … a quick and purposeful clasp … and the little box was in my hand … as I glanced up from signing the logbook I looked straight into the smiling face of the busdriver … he had been watching and with a big grin gave me a thumps-up … obviously he knew the game had been observing other geocachers in this spot before … or maybe he had even placed it there … who knows? … I put the box back in its place and waving at the busdriver I walk back to the car.
I had another special geocache for today in mind! It was located in Funchal just a little off the VR 1 … so basically on the way back to the hotel … and by now I felt confident enough to brave the Funchal city traffic … Driving the few kilometer to Funchal I spotted some rainbows again. Traffic was light at this time.
Turning off the expressway at the exit for Madalena it was less than a kilometer to the cache location, but traffic off the expressway was thick. While a parking lot was marked in the listing I did not dare use it … What? It was the entrance for a garden center and very busy … I did not dare turn in … I might not be able to get back out … And why was there a garden center? … Where those coordinates correct? … I was sure going to find out … just some 200 m up the road I found a spacious parking lot and left the car in front of some ever beautiful red Sword Aloe flowers.
It turned out, that the geocache I had in mind was indeed located within the outdoors of the garden center … Nobody was bothered when I walked – mask on – just past the entrance and up the nursery setting. At first of course I got distracted by the Passion Fruit hedge near the entrance – there were a couple of fruit on it … still unripe … but it had been ages since I had seen one last time … it must have been somewhere in … Southern India … That was the last time I had been to the tropics … I love the Passion Flowers, but there was none here at the moment, at least not one I could spot.
Passiflora Edulis is a vine species native to southern Brazil through Paraguay and northern Argentina. It is cultivated commercially in tropical and subtropical areas for its sweet, seedy fruit. In the history of the Passion Fruit it was Monardis who, in 1569, described the first species of it, with the name of Granadilla – This plant, considered extraordinary by the conformation of its crimson flowers, was sent as a gift to Pope Paul V (1605-1621), who cultivated it with great affection in Rome and spread it representeing a divine revelation. Due to the beauty and physical characteristic of the flowers, the plant was related to Passion of Christ. This fruit is cultivated widely on Madeira due to the subtropical climate that characterizes the region. It usually bears fruit between April and November which is both eaten and juiced – the juice often added to other fruit juices to enhance aroma – here on Madeira it is best enjoyed in the local Poncha!
And then … I saw the first Orange Tree! The Citrus Sinensis – Sweet Orange Group – includes all commonly cultivated sweet oranges, which are widespread and cultivated in all tropical regions. Oranges were introduced to Southern Europe by the Portuguese in the Age of Discovery – a period from the early 15th century to the early 17th century when European ships traveled around the world to search for new trading routes and partners. In Madeira, the predominant height of eating oranges is in December … Now, that sounds familiar! … I still associate Oranges with Christmas … in my childhood they were only sold during Christmas time … Considering that back then the world had not been as globalized as now and we all ate fruits and vegetables mostly only when they were available and in season …
But …Hey! … I was here for that famous secret box! I was looking for the Minions House! Believe it! That cache is one of the most highly rated geocache on Madeira and I had to find it! … No problem! Walking through the park like nursery I quickly came across that little wooden house with a big painting of the bright yellow creature in dark blue pants! I found where the Minions live!
As per definition a minion is a follower or underling of a powerful person, especially a servile or unimportant one. The Minions became famous with the 2015 American computer-animated comedy film of the same name. The film grossed over $1.1 billion worldwide, making it the 10th highest-grossing film of all time and the highest-grossing non-Disney animated film during its theatrical run. In the plot Minions Kevin, Stuart and Bob decide to find a new master. They embark on a global trip and meet Scarlett Overkill, a female super-villain who recruits them and hatches a plan to take over the world. I have to admit, I have never seen the film … I am not a friend of animated movies … but the memes that are circulation the social networks are often hilarious!
Now however, I had to open that huge box and sign the logbook … the door of the house was locked though … Well, sometimes secret boxes have a little trick to open them which is part of the fun of the game … often it helps to read the listing and the hint … sometimes I do not do this or forget what I read earlier … but then the seasoned geocachers instincts kicked in and I spotted a little something to the side of the door under the house frame … Aahhh! … A small plastic tube containing the house key! … Quickly I inserted it into the key hole … it was not working! … WTF! … was the lock broken? … I raked my brain … I vaguely remember reading something … shall I quickly look it up? … No! Wait! I remember! … It had said – Turn the key in the opposite direction! … Yes! The door opened! I was in!
Ducking inside the tiny house I sat on the miniature stool scanning the interior … Where was the logbook? … there must be some glue somewhere … I pushed every button, rattled at every possible piece of material, stuck my hand to feel in every corner … nothing … There must be something! … Eventually a box with 2 screwdrivers and a plastic pipe next to the door caught my attention … Wait! I had seen this trick before! … the plastic pipes had holes and inside it was another tube which had to be moved upwards and out using the screw drivers … I had played that game already! Quickly I had the box out … Yes! … but again disappointment … there was only another hint inside – Turn the picture for the next glue! … that was quickly done …
No logbook there either – Type the cache name on the keyboard on the old computer! … Easily done! … What happened? … Aahh, the disc drive opened … or maybe it had been open all the time? That computer had absolutely no power … or maybe it is a very clever mechanical trick! … But again there was only another hint in there … Really? Another one? … Search for the glue in the big Minion! … Well, yeah! That was a rather large plush Minion! … Sorry, buddy, I am going to feel you up now! …
I fished out yet another message – Find the key under the door mat! … Really? The key under the door mat? That was easy! … I retrieved it and it easily opened the door below the old computer and there it was! The hugely desired logbook … and even that was covered in Minions! I was so happy! I had found where the Minions live and I could sign the logbook! Apart from that I had ridiculous fun following all those hints to the final logbook location! I mean … whoever comes up with things like this? This was much more fun than just finding tubberware boxes in the bushes covered with rocks …
Hidding everything properly again I dropped another one of the TBs, I had brought, in there as well and when logging online later I also left a virtual favourite point. That Minions House I seriously enjoyed finding! One more highlight of the day! Carefully closing and logging the house again I hid the house key in its place, took a last look and walked off smiling. What fun that had been! Well worth the small detour! Quickly I made my way back to the car and headed for the expressway and the hotel.
I reached the hotel around 18:00. It was warm this evening – for the first time I could sit outside on the balcony long after dark and enjoy the view. Later I pampered myself a bit … took a long, very hot shower, washed my hair, put a hydrating cleansing mask on my face, enjoyed a Mango Vodka Cocktail, watched some TV with one eye while sorting and posting photos. I decided to turn the TV off again, though … Life was much more chilled without getting hammered all day with bad news and C-case numbers … I was not missing watching that at all!
Messaging with the people from the accommodation for tomorrow – Please pick up the key in the Wine Bar next to the guesthouse! – I contemplated what I should do tomorrow … Try the mountains again? At the moment the weather looked promising … but would it stay like that?
28.11.20
131 km Eastern part
The first night without rain! I did not know about the middle of the night – but until I slept late there was nothing and early this morning it was all dry as well … Maybe sun and blue skies were in the cards for today? I finished packing my stuff after I had gotten up early as usual. There was not too much to sort out – most of my shopping I had left in the trunk of the car already. When I went for breakfast I took the bag with water bottles and juices down as well. For my last breakfast at Sentido Galosol I was early and the first customer once more.
Since it was dry and the sun was starting to rise in the East I decided to go for a walk in the neighbourhood and find a couple of geocaches nearby before leaving. My hotel was located in Caniço de Baixo which is part of the city of Caniço. It is connected to the urban sprawl of Funchal and located 6 km east of the capital city. Caniço de Baixo is mainy a cluster of hotels and holiday apartments, it seemed, sticking to the steep coastal line. The streets were mostly going uphill and so I walked up a very steep lane to find the first secret box of the day. Not many people were around this early in the morning … it was just around 07:30.
Briskly I walked towards the GPS marker of the next hidden box. It was possibly located on top of the cliff at the coast with an unobstructed view of the ocean … Maybe I was right, then I could hopefully see the sunrise which was usually around 08:00. Instinctively I followed the correct alley past a fancy hotel. The box was for sure not hidden on the hotel premises … Next to it however was a rather extensive empty lot. There may or may not have been buildings there before, but now it was just a junglelike sort of constructions site that looked more like a garbage dump. Walking past some seemingly abandoned heavy machinery I followed the arrow on the GPS app on my mobile across the lot through kneehigh vegetation. There was no path whatsoever … The geocache was supposed to be hidden under a Massaroco do Litoral – Echium Nervosum – bush. Those are endemic to Madeira. They are compact woody shrubs with an average height approx 1 m maximum, narrow, densely haired, silver green leaves and pale blue flowers sitting in an egg-shaped inflorescence. Unfortunately they were not blooming at this time of year. But I found the hidden box under one of the many bushes directly at the edge of the cliff just when the sun came up!
The view was magnificent! Well worth the walk here. I stayed wrapped up in the sunrise for a few more minutes before trekking back towards the hotel, which was not too far away, but mostly it went uphill from here.
In this residential area there were plenty ornate gardens around and much was blooming. Another beautiful blooming Frangipani was glowing pinkish in the morning light – so beautiul.
And there were plenty of Poinsettia – Euphorbia Pulcherrima – in Germany we call them Christmas Star – around as well. Indigenous to Mexico and Central America, the Poinsettia was first described by Europeans in 1834. It is particularly well known for its red and green foliage and is widely used in Christmas floral displays. While at home we only know it as potted plants, here they were shrubs or small trees growing in the gardens.
Back in my room I finished packing and sat on the balcony fiddling with the laptop trying to decide where to go today. My next accommodation was in São Vincente across the island half way along the North coast. I could go either way around the island … Since the weather looked very promising at this moment with blue skies and sunshine here on the coast, I figured, I would try for the mountains once again. So I finished packing and loaded up the car. My suitcase indeed had to ride on the backseat, otherwise it would have blocked my rearview …
I went to reception and checked out. My room bill was paid, but I still had the open dinner bill from the Pizzeria on the first night. I paid that in cash. By 09:00 I was in the car and rolling uphill once more. Following the shortest route directly to Camacha and past Aguas Mansas I turned up towards Poiso in Ribeira João Gonçalves. That was the road I had tried the other day on my second snow-slush adventure. Only a kilometer or so up I parked by the side and went for a tiny walk of some 300 m into the Eucalyptus Forest to find a secret box.
Those trees were so tall! And the scent in the forest! It smelled so eucalyptic. I loved it. Maybe I should have done some eucalyptic forest bathing meditation … The only thing that was missing here were the Koalas lounging in the trees munching on Eucalyptur … I could literally envision them like I saw them on my campervan tour along the Southeast coast on Australia in 2012 … So cute they were …
But that was just an illusion … I was on Madeira and I was determined to get up the mountain! I quickly found that geocache, signed the logbook and off I went again.
Soon enough I passed the spot where I got stuck last time … Here it dawned on me that I really had slithered down the road for almost 3 km while initially I had though it had been only some 500 m. This time around I kept going without problems … it was however not looking too good … the further I had come up the more the sun had disappeared. The grey clouds hung low again and it had started drizzling … I sure hoped it was holding up …
I stopped for a quick geocache by the side of the road a little further up. It was a swift find. There was supposed to be a good view from that spot beside the road, but today the low clouds were the only thing I could see. So I was back in the car and off in a blink still being hopeful to pass through the clouds and up into the sunshine at one point …
Only a few minutes later I reached the junction in Poiso. It really was only a junction – actually the Paso do Poiso – Poiso Pass – of 1412 m altitude. There was a forest warden station and a restaurant and that was it. By now it was raining some more, but it was still 9°C … Maybe I would be lucky today? The road up to Pico do Arieiro, the 3rd highest mountain on the island, was beginning just across the junction … But why on earth were all the cars turning around? It was almost a traffic jam … I suppose I had not been the only one with the idea to go up there today … But then I saw the chain and sign blocking the entrance … Damn … I was not going to make it up there today either … The road was closed …
Turning around as well, I parked the car by the side of the road and went for a walk. At least I wanted to take a photo of the sign … and find a secret box near the junction. That was done quickly and for a while I watched many people climbing over the chain and walking up the hill. I was wondering where they were going. On the map I could not make out anything special between here and the top. It was approx 7 km road to reach the top. Where were they going? I did not know and I was not walking up their either. In hindsight I was thinking they might have walked up a bit only to walk out of the clouds maybe and enjoy the view … But I could not be sure …
What I did find here, however, was snow! Yes! I finally found snow! Yes, I did! It was my first snow this season and I was so happy about it! The last snow I had seen was in the end of January this year and it had been equally unexpected – it was in Shimla in India and it had surprised me as much.
Indeed there was only a rather small speck of snow left next to the road in a parklike setting … There were some flowering shrubs – I found out they were Choisya Ternata – known as Mexican Orange or Mock Orange – evergreen shrubs with white scented flowers, appearing in spring – but sometimes with limited repeat flowering in autumn. As the name says they originate from Mexico, but are widely grown as an ornamental shrub in suitable climates. It tolerates temperatures down to −10 °C. I guess, it likes the high altitude here as well.
Now, where should I go next?
