03.12.2018
I slept well last night and got up early. Traffic outside my window was much busier than yesterday. Monday, I suppose!
I packed up and went down for breakfast at 07:00, but nobody was there. Some other guests also waited, because yesterday the receptionist had said it starts at 07:00. But when somebody showed up, he said it is 07:30 today. Well …. Can I be bothered with breakfast? I was not hungry and wanted to get going as early as possible and leave the big city of Accra behind. So I skipped it and got my bags. The guy at reception helped me get a taxi to the Tudu tro-tro station. It cost GHS 8 and took maybe 20 min because of the traffic and the direct road was also one-way traffic in the opposite direction.
The roads were very busy even though it was not yet 07:30. Today there was everywhere market around the bus station more than yesterday. When I got off the taxi I did not have to walk far before the first call came – Obruni, obruni – white person – Where you go? You go Togo? – No I go Ho! – Oh not here! You go there …. – He points in the wage direction of the bus parking around the corner. – Obruni, where you go? You go Togo? – Nooooo! I go Ho! – Ah, you go over there ….. more pointing and waving …. Obruni, you go Ho? – Yes! – Come I show you!
The square behind the market was busy with minibuses. Mates – the helpers of the bus drivers or owners – were shouting out the destinations. I followed the man who kept waving me on to show me the bus for Ho. I actually wanted to go to Hohoe, but since I was not sure how to pronounce it properly, I kept yelling behind him – I go Hoho! – Yes, Ho! – No, Hoho!
He led me to a minibus somewhat in the center of the square in the midst of the chaos. The bus driver said to get a ticket somewhere at a counter, but before the other guy could pull me along, I asked him about Hohoe. – I want to go Hoho! – Yes, Ho! – No, the other one … the Hoho … Hohoeee – Ahha, you want to go Hoho-ej! – Yes, that one! – OK! …. And he shouted to the other guy – She want to go Hohoe, no Ho! – But you say Ho! – No, I say Hoho! – Ok, this bus here! …. And he sort of handed me over to a mate with a waddle of money in his hand. – Yes, show me where ou want to go! – I produced my mobile phone and showed him the name of the town on the map. – Yes, Hoho-ej! It is Cedi 34! But you pay seat for your bag, too, Cedi 34, too! – Why? The bag can go on the top! – No this bus no have top storage and the bag no go under the seat! You pay for bag! – Ok, can I sit in the front then? – No, already taken! You sit here and your bag behind you! – OK.
So I ended up paying a ticket for my bag, too. It had a good seat as well. Considering 2x GHS 34 is still only like € 12, it was not so bad. They put the big bag on its seat and I put my small bag on my seat and then stood around the van waiting. Those tro-tros have no schedule, they just leave when they are full. This reminded me so much of the time I was in Uganda in 2002 and went to see the Gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. I had to take a local bus for 10 hrs to get there. The bus station in Kampala was also just a huge space like a football field and I was handed from one person to the next leading me through the maze of busses and people to the right bus, got seated and then waited and waited until the big bus was full and left like 2 hours later.
In East and South Africa it was however the ubiquitous “Muzungu Muzungu” – white person – shouts that I heard. In Ghana it was “Obruni, obruni” all the time. Obruni is a word typically directed at a white person, but sometimes used to refer to foreigners in general. The word is also often used by Ghanaians, when speaking amongst themselves, as a code word for “white man” – similar from what we know from Thailand when Thais refer to foreigners as “farang”. Obruni are considered an amusing sight, especially in rural areas, where children might follow around a foreigner, chanting the word. The word “obruni” derives from the phrase “Aburo foɔ” in the Akan language literally meaning “people from beyond the seas”.
There were so many hawkers around selling all kinds of stuff while we waited. Women carried everything from toiletries and toothbrushes to cookies and water on their heads trying to sell it to the people waiting for and on the busses.
A man stopped to talk to me. – Hello, how are you? – I am fine, thank you. – You are from Germany! – Yes, I am. How could you tell? – Germans are very tall and strong. Germans where here in the Volta Region before and we recognize them. But I have to go now catch my bus. Wish you a safe journey. – Thank you, sir. …. Indeed the Volta Region used to be part of German Togoland before WW I …
Togoland was a German Empire protectorate in West Africa from 1884 to 1914, encompassing what is now the nation of Togo and most of what is now the Volta Region of Ghana, During the period known as the “Scramble for Africa”, the colony was established in 1884 and was gradually extended inland. At the outbreak of the First World War in 1914 the colony was invaded and quickly overrun by British and French forces during the Togoland campaign and placed under military rule. In 1916 the territory was then divided into separate British and French administrative zones, and this was formalised in 1922 with the creation of British Togoland and French Togoland.
We had to wait approx 1 hr before the last seat on the bus was sold. All of a sudden everybody got busy and piled in the van. I had a good seat by the window. Even though they claimed this bus was an AC van, they kept all the windows open. There was definitely no AC … We left at approx 08:30 and got right away stuck in traffic. Once we were out of the city it got better, though. It was about 230 km to Hohoe in the Volta Region. First we followed the N 1 to Tema and then turned onto the N2 towards Hohoe. The road was good and traffic was light once we left the coast. The driver was like a maniac, speeding along. Somewhere along the way, just when we actually reached the Volta Region there was a short stop in Atimpoku. Nobody got off, though, but the van got swarmed by hawkers selling food of all kinds. They reached inside the open windows to make everybody aware what they had. Most everybody bought something, I did not. However, the skewers with some kind of meat looked interesting … I will have to find out what those are and try them one day!
Near Atimpoku the road crossed the Volta River just a few kilometers below the Akosombo Dam. The Akosombo Dam – also known as the Volta Dam – is a hydroelectric dam on the Volta River in the Akosombo gorge. The construction of the dam flooded part of the Volta River Basin, and led to the subsequent creation of Lake Volta which is the largest man-made lake in the world by surface area. The primary purpose of the Akosombo Dam was to provide electricity for the aluminium industry – the world needs a lot of aluminium! The Akosombo Dam was called “the largest single investment in the economic development plans of Ghana.” Unfortunately, we could not see it, from the main road, it was quite a few kilometers further upriver.
The last sort of 70 km to Hohoe were the worst. So far the road had been in perfect shape and we moved along quick. But then the road turned into half gravel and half disintegrated asphalt. There was a lot of red dust and more potholes than road. We got jolted around in the van like hell for the last 2 hrs or so. But I was sitting on the good side and had a view of the lush green hills of the Volta Region.
After 6 hrs we reached Hohoe at approx 13:30. The driver knew I wanted to go to Wli and told me to go to the main station … that way … a wage wave with the arm … I went that way … and the next one asked me and pointed the same way across the road. Sure enough through a narrow alley I reached the bus parking only a couple of minutes later, it was literally just across the road. Here the shouts of “obruni, obruni” were blissfully absent. Later I was told, this region is largely shunned by the package tourist industry and increasingly popular with independent travelers due to the large amount of community-based development. Here they rather shout “Mia Woezor” which means “You are welcome”.
Immediately when I reached the bus parking I was asked where I wanted to go and a friendly man led me across to the parking of the shared taxis to Wli. A happy taxi man grabbed my bag – Cedi 10 for you and Cedi 5 for your bag! – and before I could think of anything else I had handed him some money and was sitting in a shared taxi with 3 other people and a baby on the way to Wli.
The road there was not much better – more potholes than road for a while. The drive was not too long, just under an hour and we reached the small village of Wli Agorviefe. They dropped me of right in the center 50 m from the border post to Togo. I had checked online about available guesthouses and found 3, there were some more in the guide book. The first one I walked to, was right where I got off the taxi, but it looked rather closed and seemed not to have a view. It did not strike my fancy and I walked on. To the next one, maps was pointing me 500 m down the road, but the book said it was the other way …. It was too hot to walk … I asked a lady at a food stall – there were not many people around the village, I have to say. She said that hotel has 2 places – there and there – and she called her son to drive me with the motorbike there. – Me and my big bags on the motorbike? You sure? – Yes, sure! Get on! …. We rolled about 100 m down the street to the gas station … well … to the crate with bottles filled up with gasoline! At least here they use glass bottles and not plastic like in India …
But then the guy could not get the tank cap open …. They fiddled and fiddled and then he gave up when I said I better walk. He did point me in the right direction and told me how far to walk before turning off to the right. So I walked.
Only a few minutes later I came however across a sign for the Waterfall Lodge stating a nice German couple would welcome you. I had read about this lodge in the guide book. Since I was not sure how far down the side street is was and if they were open, I dug out the guide book and remembered I have call credit on my new Ghana number! So I called them and they said it is OK to come. It was actually only maybe 300 m down the road and the views on the way were great – I could see the waterfall in the far distance. When I reached the gate I just went in and already a girl came to welcome me and showed me a bungalow. The garden setting with the view was beautiful and I decided to stay before I even saw the room or heard the price. I got a big circular bungalow with hug bathroom and fan for GHS 100 per night. Perfect! I take it.
I settled in, washed the road dust from my face and went to the restaurant situated in the middle of the garden. The girl had said it was open until 19:00. It was 14:45 by now and I was ready for a beer and some food!
The friendly German lady Sabine came to do the check-in formalities and I ordered a beer and water. It sizzled all down my throat in no time. I studied my guide book what to do next when she came back and sat with me chatting. She gave me some great pointers on what to do next. I had already been thinking of crossing into Togo here and go on the Togo side down to Lomé, but my visa for Togo only started on 06.12. and I would have to stay an extra day here …. I would rather go somewhere else the day before and see maybe the monkey sanctuary or so. And Sabine had good ideas. I will be mulling them over a while and then just go on Wednesday and see where I end up.
The Bradt Guide Ghana states “Ghana is often referred to as Africa for beginners. It might as easily be described as Africa in Microcosm. Not only does this amiable and largely hassle-free country form an obvious entry-level destination for nervous newbie independent travelers, but it also boasts a remarkable varied set of attractions within an unusual compact travel circuit.” – Well, I am not a nervous newbie traveler and I have experienced today how easy it was to get here. Therefore I am sure I will see some more of the Volta Region before going to Togo. However, to see the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary and Amedzofe, the highest town of Ghana, will involve some serious tro-tro changing and motorbike adventures!
I was getting hungry – I had not have had breakfast or lunch today, only a couple of shortbread cookies I had bought from a lady at the bus station in Accra. Sabine said the kitchen is open and I am the only guest, so any time I want to eat is good, as long as it is before 19:00. But the decision was made already – I was hungry and I wanted to eat now. I ordered Palaver-Sauce with yam & chicken and a tomato salad … and another beer. Palaver Sauce is a famous West African dish – a stew made of spinach-like taro leaves and ground bitter melon seats. The word palaver actually comes from the Portuguese language and means a talk, lengthy debate or quarrel. We know and use it in German, too. It is however absolutely unclear how this lead to the name of the African stew. It is actually called Kotomire Stew – which is the Ghanaian name of the cocoyam or taro. Legend has it however that the nickname Palaver Sauce originated from a meeting between European colonialists and some indigenous tribes in pre-independence Ghana to discuss trade. This long and arduous meeting took place over Kotomire Stew and because all the palaver that was done during the meeting … the nickname Palaver Sauce!
It was very delicious! They had put the spicy chili and the spicy sauce by the side, so I could use them as I liked. I was really hungry and ate it all up. I left the boiled yam, because I was full. But I am not a big fan of boiled potatoes either and they are somewhat similar. I rather ate the good stuff.
After the food I took my beer and water to my bungalow and had a siesta. I actually fell asleep for an hour or so. When I woke up it was getting dark outside. There were only 2 more guests today which had in the meantime arrived. The restaurant would be closing soon anyway, so I decided to enjoy my bungalow instead. I had to wash all the road dust off and out of my hair! It was already turning into dreadlocks! Then I finished my beer, did some more reading up in the guide book and posted some photos. There is now WIFI here and the mobile connection is very slow, but the photos did go through. And I wrote a bit and then it was time for bed.
04.12.2018
I slept well last night without even the fan on. After sunset it was getting nice and cool and I even needed a blanket in the wee hours of the morning. During the day it was as hot as on the coast here, but the nights are definitely cooler.
I woke up early – since I slept early last night – but did not get up, rather read some more and just contemplated. Around 08:30, however, I got ready and walked a bit around the village, which is basically only one road. The entrance to the Wli Agumatsa Falls & Wildlife Sanctuary with the Tourist Reception Office was only a few hundred meters from the Waterfall Lodge. I got there by about 09:15. There was supposed to be a food stall next to it for breakfast, but it was apparently under reconstruction. The Waterfall Lodge is closed on Tuesdays – all employees are off and no new arrivals are accepted. But since I arrived Monday I could stay on till Wednesday, however the restaurant is closed. Anyway, I did not need breakfast.
At the Reception Office I paid my GHS 20 entrance fee and forcefully declined the mandatory guide they wanted to give me. Sabine, the woman from the Lodge had said, the walk is easily done alone and just stand your ground in not taking the guide. They were surprisingly easygoing there and I just had to write in one of their books that I wanted to go alone but with God’s Grace – like many others had done before me.
I had opted to do the lower waterfall trail. It was a very undemanding 45 min walk through dense forest. The path was more or less straight forward and very wide, no chance to miss it. The forest was dense. I met a few local people on the path. Some women collecting fire wood, some men with old guns – not sure what they were hunting. But they were all friendly and greeted me happily.
The path followed the small Wli and Agumatsa rivers and I passed a total of 9 – yes, I counted them! – small bridges. Some of them had many times been washed away and had only wooden planks crossing the river, others were still concrete footbridges.
The Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary has 35 km² of protected area and lies astride the Togolese border and was originally established to protect a cliff-nesting colony of the straw-coloured fruit bat (Eidolon helvum). I did see a couple of them flying above in between the trees. The main reason visitors come here, however, are the Wli Waterfalls – reputedly the tallest waterfalls in West Africa. There are actually 2 waterfalls here formed by the Agumatsa River – I visited the easily accessible lower falls which tumble some 70 m over the same cliff that houses the fruit bat colony. The upper falls are much harder to reach and involve hiking up some really steep cliffs – not for me! I am on vacation! I did see the upper falls from the village – that is enough for me.
On the way through the forest to the lower falls I saw many many beautiful butterflies. I am not sure what they all were, some looked more like moths, though, but they were all so colourful and they were everywhere around me on the path and in the bushes.
I reached the waterfall easily and was all alone there. It was really tall and crushed down with immense noise. There were some benches around and I sat there to enjoy the scenery and the peace and quiet. It was pleasantly cool there. The cold water came from much higher up the mountains and tumbled down making a light and cool breeze. It is also allowed to swim in the pool below the falls. But I was not going to do that. The water was really cold and the sun had not yet come all the way around to warm up the surroundings. And I did not want to go all alone anyway and leave my stuff lying there.
I spent a bit more than an hour sitting on the bench reading and doing nothing but watching the water fall, before I started the walk back. Just when more people started arriving, I left. I had only met 3 other Western tourists this morning who had gone up to the falls in the early morning and were already on the way back when I started. But there were many local tourists coming up now. Some guy tried to chat me up and told me he was from Togo here to visit friends and together they came to swim in the pool of the waterfalls. I wished them fun and waved them good-bye.
On the way back I saw more butterflies. They seemed to be lounging in the sunny spots along the path. They all were really beautiful.
I also heard the monkeys shout in the forest. But I did not see them. There are supposed to be mona monkeys here, but they did not show themselves to me. I met more people walking up to the falls and passed the men with the guns again. They greeted me again and wondered why I go back already.
Back at the Tourist Reception Office I had to make a stop again to collect my change money. They had not been able to change my GHS 50 note and owed me GHS 10. They had said they would have it when I came back. And sure enough they guy immediately went in to get it when he saw me approaching.
It was almost midday now and I was very hot and hungry. Since my Lodge was closed today I had to find another spot. There was not much in the village, but Sabine from the Lodge had told me the Water Heights Hotel is the best place to eat during the day, the restaurant is always open. So I decided to go and check it out, not that I had much other options. All the small food stalls that were mentioned in the guide book seemed closed during the day. The hotel was some 500 m down the main road in the village. Not much was happening in the village at the hottest time of the day. There were no cars around and only a few people lounging in the shade in front of their houses. The market square was empty – market day is on Wednesday. Tomorrow it would be busy. Good, then there would be more transport options for me out of here and to Hohoe.
I found the hotel gate easily and the restaurant was in a nice garden setting – not as nice as in the Waterfall Lodge, but pleasant enough – and it was open! I needed a cold beer! And a big water! The waitresses were very quick and friendly – I was the only guest, though. Once the beer had sizzled down, I was ready to order lunch. Of course, I opted for Ghanaian food again – Spaghetti Bolognese I can eat anytime at home … I chose Omu Tuo with Goat in Groundnut Soup.
Omu Tuo are rice balls. The rice is cooked with more water than usual to make it softer. It is then beaten a little bit to make it smooth and shaped into sizable balls. They came with Groundnut Soup – first I had to think a little about the term and then it hit me – Peanut Soup! In German peanut are actually also called groundnuts! This soup is apparently one of the most popular soups in Ghana due to the fact that it can be served alongside a lot of different foods. It is made with peanut paste and tomato puree, onions and other spices. I had ordered it with goat meat.
The food took a long time coming, because everything gets prepared from scratch here. But I had no problem waiting. The beer was cold and the garden was quiet. Once it came it was very delicious. I am not a huge fan of peanuts, but the soup was excellent. The goat skin was rather chewy, but I peeled out the meat from inside. They had also served me a big bowl of warm water to wash my hands. In Africa they also eat with their right hand. I preferred a spoon for soup and rice, but the goat I had to attack with my fingers!
The food was not expensive and for 2 beers and all the food I paid only GHS 60. After lunch I was ready for a siesta and went back to my bungalow. It was about 14:30 when I got there and I promptly fell asleep. This is vacation! I need my daily afternoon naps! I woke up around 16:00 and went to sit in the garden restaurant – even though it was closed today – to enjoy the view while sorting through all the photos of today. The lady of the house came by to chat a bit and I had another sunset beer – she said beer is always available – even if the restaurant is closed!
Once the sun was down and it got cooler I went to my bungalow. It is basically dark by 18:30 or so. I wrote my journal and got organized for tomorrow, before reading some more and sleeping early.
