30.11.2018
Off to a new adventure! Ghana – Benin – Togo it is! I booked a 2 week cultural tour through the 3 countries and added a short week before hand in Ghana on my own to it.
Today in the late afternoon I took a train to Frankfurt arriving there around 22:45. For once the train was on time. I checked into the familiar hostel and went more or less straight to sleep. I was going to be a short night. Anyway, people were first partying and then snoring like hell …
01.12.2018
Just before 05:00 am I got up and left with the S-Bahn to the airport. My Air France flight to Paris was scheduled for 09:40 and by the time I reached the terminal check-in was open already. Well, I had checked in online, but for some reason it would not generate boarding passes for me. It turned out that there was another stop on the flight from Paris to Accra, where seats had to be changed. I would see the airport of Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso on the way.
I was early and security check was quick, I bought my usual bottle of Vodka – strictly for medicinal purposes, of course! – in the duty free and then hung around the gate. I did treat myself to some breakfast, though – coffee, croissant and mango smoothie.
Later the gate opened on time and once boarding was completed the plane actually taxied with only a slight delay to the runway. Then it sat there for a few minutes and then it turned around – Ladies and gentlemen, we have technical problems and will return to the gate, you will exit the plane and wait in the airport for further information! – So we all piled back in the bus that brought us to the gate. There we first got all stuck in the staircase. The bus driver had closed the bottom door behind the last passenger, but nobody had opened the top door to let us in the gate waiting area. And nobody to be seen either … We waited maybe 10 min or so until finally somebody let us in. No information was given, but everybody sort of lined up at the desk where 2 ladies started rerouting everybody. I was not really worried. My connecting flight in Paris would leave without me, so they would have to find a solution. The worst case would be flying the same connection tomorrow.
Some people got really nervous and started rioting, but what can the 2 ladies do. Not their fault either. I was just happy, I was this side of the desk and not behind it as usual – not at the airport but on the ship. Eventually, they made an announcement that the flight had definitely been cancelled due to technical problems. Well, better technical problems before take off and grounded, than technical problems while in the air! I was relaxed and pretty much one of the last that reached the desk. The system – or somebody behind it – had already rerouted me and the lady just had to give me the new itinerary. I would fly at 16:40 with Royal Air Maroc via Casablanca to Accra instead and reach there at 02:30 am – 6 hrs later than planned. They also gave me a meal voucher for lunch. Nice of them!
I had to leave the transit, however, to do a new check-in and make sure they also reroute my bag. The Air Maroc check-in was not open yet for a while and I used the meal voucher in the mean time. It was lunchtime now. All this in-the-airplane, out-the-airplane and rescheduling had taken some time. I treated myself to an excellent Ceasar Salad with shrimps and an Aperol Spritz. The meal voucher covered half of the bill, which was great.
With all this waiting around I realized I had forgotten the plug and charger cable for my mobile phone at home … Oh well! I went to find a shop to buy yet another one – I cannot even count how many I have at home already because I keep buying new ones when I forget them.
Later I did the self check in for my new flight at the machine, since the check-in counter was still not open. But I did not want to hang around outside in the terminal building. The transit area has more comfortable seats…. The gentleman at the Air France ticketing desk was friendly enough and he telephoned for me to reroute my bag. That was nice of him. So I could pass passport control and hang in the transit.
I bought another drink and found one of the comfortable seats with footrests and sockets to charge my mobile while I was reading some trashy romance novel on my kindle app.
Once the gate opened for my new flight I passed security and checked with the agent at the gate about my luggage. She first said that it had not been changed to the new itinerary, but then it had and well, she did not know if it made the flight or not. Oh well …
The flight to Casablanca was approx 3 hrs and a bit. I had one seat empty next to me, which was good. There was good food but no alcohol on board. No movies to watch either …. So I slept a little. The layover in Casablanca was some 2.5 hrs or so. It was a pleasant enough airport, but no bar. So I did the alcoholic thing – I bought 2 miniature bottles of rum in the duty free and a can of juice in the food court, then found a place in the corner of the gate and secretly filled the rum in the juice can. It had been a long day!
The flight to Accra was another 4 hrs and again there was good food on board but no alcohol! No movies either … Again I had one seat next to me empty and slept a little.
02.12.2018
We landed on time in Accra and …. Culture shock! A very modern airport, spotless clean and very organized. I grabbed an arrival form and filled it in on the go. Before passport control some agents of the Ghanaian health organization demanded from every Westerner to show their Yellow Fever certificate. I had already submitted it when applying for the visa and showed the lady only a copy. She got all angry – Why you did not bring the original? You bring your original passport! Why not your original Yellow Fever certificate? – Madame, not my fault you have to work at 03:00 am! Here, have the original!
It was the first time ever I was asked to present my vaccination certificate. Do not get me wrong, I have all shots up to date and always carry dutifully the certificate with me whenever I travel. I have had 2 Yellow Fever shots in my time until the WHO decided one is enough to last a life time. I did get a federal stamp which states “Valid for life” from the doctor at the institute for tropical medicine, though, just in case. Last year I was told a prove of vaccination is only required if you travel from one yellow fever zone directly to the next, but not if you come in from Europe. But Ghana seems different, but fortunately they seem to follow WHO guidelines and did not make me get another shot.
Immigration was much quicker and the agent there much friendlier. Here not only do they take a photo, no they scan all 10 finger prints! Believe it or not! – Madame, put the 4 fingers of the left hand there … now the left thumb! … Now the 4 fingers of the right hand! … Now the right thumb! … Thank you!
Luggage delivery started just when I reached the carousel. I was sure my bag had not made it and was already looking for the Lost Luggage counter. But I had to wait till the last bag popped out of the catacombs. And while I checked if I could log on to the airport WIFI, I almost missed my bag when it glided past me! Oops! There it is! It made it! Happy!
Coming out of the airport building I searched for my transfer driver. I had booked 2 nights in a hotel in the city and ordered a transfer for GHS 50 via them to make sure they let me in late in the evening. I had also e-mailed them my new arrival time and thankfully they had received the message and the transfer driver held up a sign with my name. While he paid the parking ticket I went to the ATM machine to draw some cash and then we were on the way to the hotel. The drive was maybe 20 min and by 03:45 we reached Niagara Hotel. The driver woke up the night watch and in no time I was in my room and in my bed!
I slept till around 08:00 and went for breakfast in the restaurant downstairs. It was good breakfast with toast and omelette and fruits and juice. After that I went to explore.
The Republic of Ghana is a country located along the Gulf of Guinea and the Atlantic Ocean in the subregion of West Africa. Ghana means “Warrior King” in the Soninke language of West Africa. The first permanent state in the territory of present-day Ghana dates back to the 11th century. Numerous kingdoms and empires emerged over the centuries, of which the most powerful was the Kingdom of Ashanti. Beginning in the 15th century, numerous European powers contested the area for trading rights, with the British ultimately establishing control of the coast by the late 19th century. Ghana became independent of the United Kingdom in 1957. Ghana’s population of approx 28 mio spans a variety of ethnic, linguistic and religious groups. Its diverse geography and ecology ranges from coastal savannahs to tropical rain forests.
Accra is the capital and largest city of Ghana with an estimated urban population of 2.27 mio. Formed from the merger of distinct settlements around British Fort James, Dutch Fort Crêvecoeur or Ussher Fort and Danish Fort Christiansborg as Jamestown, Usshertown, and Christiansborg respectively, Accra served as the capital of the British Gold Coast between 1877 and 1957 and has since transitioned into a modern metropolis.
I walked the Kojo Thompson Rd from the hotel straight down towards the sea. Not much was happening this morning. It was Sunday and all shops were closed. Only a few people where on the road, but some market stalls were setting up. I passed the Tudu bus station. There was some market going on around it. I went to check on mini busses to the Volta region. People were friendly here and just told me to come here and take the next bus that goes, basically. No schedules here.
I walked all the way to the main road that parallels the coast. There I found the historic Post Office building which was apparently built in 1930 and is still in use and a major landmark in Accra.
I then turned there toward the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park. Dedicated to the memory of the prominent Ghanaian leader Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, the memorial park was built on a former British Polo field where Ghana’s independence was declared in 1957.
The park only opened at 10:00 and I was 15 min too early. I wanted to go there, because there is a geocache hidden and I wanted to find it. Well, to kill some time I walked around the boundary of the park a little towards the coast. But it was very very hot today. From the side I saw the entrance gate standing ajar, so I went in. Nobody at the ticket counter yet, no people in the park yet …. Quickly I looked for the geocache, found it and snatched it. I walked a bit around to find a spot to sit, but no benches here. I could not get the tiny nano box of the cache open, either. So I did a photo log and went back to place the thing in its hiding place again. Just went I wanted to do it, a man came and asked me if I had paid the entrance ticket yet. – No I have not. The counter was closed. But I pay when it is open. – I am the ticket clerk, you pay me. – Can you change? I only have a GHS 50 note. – No, but I get the cash box. You pay later. … Once he had disappeared to wherever he was getting the cash box, I quickly placed the magnetic nano back in its hiding place.
Then I walked around the nice and quiet park a bit. The Mausoleum in the center is a magnificent marble monument and the last resting place of the first President of Ghana and his wife, Fathia Nkrumah.
It is meant to represent an upside down sword which in the Akan culture is a symbol of peace. The mausoleum is clad from top to bottom with Italian marble, with a black star at its apex to symbolize unity. The interior of the Mausoleum boasts marble flooring and a mini mastaba looking marble grave marker surrounded by river washed rocks.
A skylight at the top in the Mausoleum illuminates the grave, and at the right time, seems to reflect off the marble, they say. I was not here at that right time, though …
The Mausoleum is surrounded by water which is a symbol of life. Its presence conveys a sense of immortality for the name Nkrumah. It is supposed to show that even in death he lives on in the hearts and minds of generations here and generations yet to come.
I found a shaded bench in the far corner of the park, sat and studied my guide book on what to do next. Since I will come back at the end of the tour to Accra again and we would have a city tour, I did not want to go see everything yet. I decided to walk along to Independence Square.
It was so hot, I was sweating like a pig. No shade along the road. And while walking along I decided to take a tro-tro to Labadi Beach. It was along this road and probably any of the mini busses would go there. Before I could change my mind, I flagged one down and got on.
The name tro-tro apparently comes from the old Ga word meaning 3 pence – the unit of currency used during the period of British rule in Ghana. At the time, 3 pence was the going rate for a single ride in the public transport vehicles that came to be known by the same name. Historically, tro-tros were Bedford trucks converted to hold passengers seated on wooden benches. Today, a tro-tro is a catch-all phrase for any public transport vehicle in Ghana that is privately owned and may be hailed at points along its route. The most usual vehicles are small Nissan buses, mini-vans or converted pick-up trucks. Although pence is no longer the currency of Ghana, tro-tros remain incredibly cheap. I paid GHS 1.90 for the maybe 15 min ride to Labadi Beach Resort.
The Ghanaian Cedi – currency code GHS – is the fourth historical and only current legal tender in the Republic of Ghana. One cedi is divided into one hundred pesewas. After it gained independence Ghana separated itself from the British West African pound, which was the currency of the British colonies in the region, and the Ghanaian pound became the first independent Ghanaian currency. In 1965 Ghana adopted the widely accepted decimal system and the African name Cedi was introduced in place of the old British pound system. Ghana’s first President Kwame Nkrumah introduced Cedi notes and Pesewa coins in 1965. After the 1966 military coup, the new leaders introduced the “new cedi”.. After decades of high inflation devalued the new cedi, it was gradually phased out in 2007 in favor of the “Ghana cedi”. By removing four digits, the Ghana cedi became the highest-denominated currency unit issued in Africa. It has since lost about 75% of its value, however. At the moment I got for € 1 GHS 5.68 in the bank.
In front of Labadi Beach Hotel I got off the tro-tro and found another geocache – well, I did not actually find it – it had been reportedly missing for some time now – but I took a photo of the location and logged it like that. Funnily enough I got off the tro-tro directly at the hiding place – as if I had planned it – well, maybe I had ….
I then walked along the road for a bit and found the entrance of the actual Labadi Beach or more properly known as La Pleasure Beach which is the busiest beach on Ghana’s coast apparently. At the gate I had to pay GHS 15 entrance fee – it is weekend after all. Since it was only approx 11:00 by now the beach was not yet busy.
The beach is one of Accra’s most beautiful beaches and is maintained by the local hotels. I only walked a short stretch of the beach, though. This part was covered with bars and restaurants. The Atlantic was rough here, huge waves were hitting the beach.
I just wanted to sit somewhere and have a drink. The ocean breeze was nice here. The tables and chairs on the beach were nothing for me, though. Too close to each other and to dark under the parasols. I needed air! So I ended up at the Vienna City bar and there on the upstairs balcony with a nice view. I ordered a Club Beer, Ghana’s No. 1 selling beer. It was nice and cold!
I spent almost 2 hrs there reading and eating. I decided on the BBQ Lobster Platter with rice and it was absolutely delicious. There were 2 small lobster on it prepared with a butter lemon sauce. The rice was specially seasoned as well and along came a very spice sauce. For GHS 110 – which is approx € 20 – I was happily filled up afterwards.
After the second beer I left and went back to the city. Again I flagged a tro-tro down along the main road. The first couple of mini busses passed me, however, the guy hanging out the window making questioning hand gestures. Then I remembered the correct hand signal – jabbing a finger down to the ground means you want a local tro-tro that makes frequent stops. It is what is used in most places to flag down a bus or taxi or even hitchhike. Jabbing a finger up in the air as a bus approaches indicates that you want to go to the next big town, pointing that finger left or right indicates which way you want to go if there is a main junction ahead.
I took one tro-tro for GHS 1 to the ring road junction and then another one to Danquah Circle where is Oxford Street. The Oxford Street in the district of Osu has grown to become the hub of business and night life in Accra. It is locally known as the West End of Accra.
I just wanted to go past the Urbano Hotel to take a photo of the I love Accra sign on their wall. Unfortunately it was a bit obstructed by cars and a food stall …
There were many hotels, shopping malls, restaurants and bars. All shops were closed today, though. However, I spotted a Vodafone shop and went in for a SIM card. I needed to get online again …. The guy there set it up for me straight away with 2 GB data for the next 3 weeks. It will not be working in Togo or Benin, though…. It cost me GHS 2 for the SIM, GHS 20 for the data and GHS 10 call time in case I needed to call. I was happy!
Along the road I had a coconut against the thirst. It was even hotter now in the city in the afternoon, no breeze here. I walked back to the Ring Road and got on a tro-tro again to the Circle. That is a huge Kwame Nkrumah interchange close to my hotel.
I reached the hotel around 15:00 maybe and needed a break. The last 2 nights had been very short and today I walked a lot in the heat. I would go out later again and walk down the road to that minimarket at a gas station I saw this morning where they also sold beer. When I got in the hotel, however, I noticed the bar in the reception area and bought a cold beer there to take to my room.
The siesta took a little longer than planned – I fell asleep for a while. And then I could not be bothered anymore to go out ….
Instead I planned my next couple of days. This morning I was sure to stay an extra night in Accra before moving on, but now I had seen and done all what I had wanted too and felt it was time to move. I had thought to go to Ho in the Volta Region next. When I looked at the hotel options in the guide book and online, though I was not sure anymore. And therefore I decided to go all the way to Hohoe and Wli instead. So, if I get an early morning bus to Hohoe tomorrow I can change there to a tro-tro for the last few kilometers to Wli. There are several hotel and lodge options still online available, so it should be no problem to get something for a couple of days. If I stay 2 nights there, I have a day to do a little hiking, maybe see some monkeys or so. And then go down to Ho and spent a night there and from there it is not far to the Togo border and Lomé, where I would have to be on 06.12. – Now, that was a plan!
I went down to get a second beer for the evening and then repacked my backpack. The winter jacket went all the way on the bottom – I will not need it again until landing in Europe in 3 weeks.
I posted some photos and then wrote my journal.
