Back on the French rivers there are more tales to be told …
I arrived back in Lyon for the cruises on the Rivers Rhône & Saône in the end of March again … and it was as if I had never been gone … This season at least started without high water or other disasters.
It was great to see friends and collegues again, eventhough 90% of the crew on board had changed. Not so the type of guests we have. I am always amazed on how little German tourists can adapt to foreign conditions – even if they only in their neighbouring country …
There is this saying – A tourist goes somewhere to see something different and then complains, because it is not like home.
A classical question I got recently on the second day of a cruise had me nearly cracking up – We had already sailed from Lyon to our northernmost point Chalon-sur-Saône and were already on the way south again. Our Service Department had informed us before the cruise started, that there is a “special” couple coming … After having met them, I would say – professional complainers, but well, we treat everybody same same, no different than the others. So, this lady came on the second day cruising the River Saône to my desk and puts her daily program demonstratively on the counter, with her finger pointing to the top line with the name of the cruise “Highlights of the Rivers Saône & Rhône”. I had been talking about cruising the Saône for 2 days already, by the way. – Now, tell me, which river are we sailing at the moment? – Madame, we are cruising the Saône! It is written here on the top line of your daily program. – So, this is not the Seine? – No madame, the Seine flows through Paris way further north! – Oh … Are you sure? – Yes, madame, I am sure! – What is this river called, then? – The Saône! And it is nicely described in the little guide book you find in your cruise papers. – Oh, that I never read! I read everything on the internet! – Well, I just checked the internet for our current position and it told me were are on the Saône … And you know the internet is always right …
Some other day, another guest … I want to make a complaint! The guide we had yesterday was not good. – Oh I am sorry to hear, what was the problem with the guide? – She had a strong French accent! – Well, yes, she is French and learnt German as a second language. – But the day before we had a guide who spoke without an accent! – Yes, that was because she is German living in France. But, tell me, apart from the accent, was the guide professional and told you enough during the excursion? – Yes yes, she spoke a lot and we learnt a lot, but that accent! – But, madame, don`t you think, a French accent is rather … sexy? – Well, my husband thought that, too. But I did not like her!
Sometimes chocolate icecream and wine are the only solution to understand the logic of a guest …
One lunch time I sat with two of the guides in our bistro on board having lunch between excursions and chatting. There comes a lady and asks one of the guides – You were our guide on the walking tour this morning and we walked a little slower on the way back to the ship, so we missed you when the tour was finished. Now we saw you sitting here and I wanted to give you a little something as thank you. ….. Turning around to me she added – Maybe you can translate this for me? – Madame, she speaks better German than me and just guided you 3 hrs through town speaking German! She understands you perfectly well! – … Oh!
Since embarkation and disembarkation is always in Lyon we cruise down the river and then up again stopping, of course, at different ports. Coming back up the river Rhône we stop in Tournon-sur-Rhône for an excursion to go on the Train de l’Ardèche. That is a tourist railway in the northern Ardèche region. The railway is renowned for its historical steam locomotives as well as a collection of historic rolling stock and diesel railcars. The line runs in the Doux valley. Originally opened in 1891, the line closed in 1968, and reopened as a heritage line the following year. In 2008, heritage services were suspended due to lack of funds to repair steam locomotives, among other issues. In 2013, thanks to some enthusiastic locals, steam returned to the Vivarais and tourist services were resumed.
The train line is actually 22 km long and leads all the way to Lamastre, but we only ride part of the way for 8 km. The line was built to connect the region. There were no roads through the valley of the Doux. The train enabled the locals to travel easier and quicker to the markets in the next bigger towns. Children living in remote villages and farms used it to go to school. Often they had bogies to reach the next station. Nowadays there is a Velorail service for adventurous tourists as well.
The steam train tour is fantastic – me being a train buff, I love it. The old train stomps along the narrow track in the Gorges of the Doux. Depending on the weather the historic wagons are open or closed.
The ride from the station at Saint-Jean-de-Muzols up to Saint-Barthélémy-le-Plain takes approx 35 min or so – depending on the engine – sometimes it need a bit more steam and takes a few minutes longer. The vistas are beautiful over the narrow gorge. The train stomps past the Barrage de la Ville, over the narrow Viaduct de Troye and through the 265 m long Tunnel de Mordane.
On the opposite bank of the Doux is the Canal des Allemands. The canal feeds the pump-storage power plant Barrage de Clauzel and was built by German prisoners of war in the beginning of the last century. Nowadays, the plant is remote controlled, though.
At Saint-Barthélémy-le-Plain there is a 20 min break and the locomotive gets detached and turned around on a rotunda. Guess, how many men it takes to turn the locomotive!
There are usually also local products on offer in the break. Guests can taste and buy local cheeses or homemade jams. In summer fresh fruits directly from the producer are available. Sometimes even a truly French accordeon player is entertaining the guests.
Some days the Lamastre train passes that station while we are there. The track is only one way and the station one of the few places where trains can pass each other.
The ride down again is slightly faster, mainly because it goes more downhill now. Back at the station in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols there is usually still time to visit the small museum …
… or have a little meditation. The local speciality of the Ardèche is Kir Castagnou. That is chestnut liqueur filled up with dry white wine. Very good!
The cultivation of the chestnut in the Department Ardèche began in the 9th century, when Benedictine monks planted the first chestnut trees. It spread throughout the whole region by the 15th century, where it remained a staple of the Ardèchoise diet until the 19th century. Chestnut trees were called “Bread trees” because their yield was higher than grain and wheat yield in this mountainous region. The chestnut of Ardèche has been protected by a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) since 2006. Its area covers over half of the Département Ardèche and involves more than 1000 chestnut groves. The designation guarantees specific gustatory qualities of the chestnut. They have an established reputation, related on one hand to the soil, but also related to the use of traditional chestnut species from Ardèche as well as a strict adherence to the cultivation process.
A wide range of processed products – like chestnut cream, marrons glacés, chestnut beer, mashed chestnuts or chestnut jam – are made with the chestnut of Ardèche. My favourite is the Chestnut Liqueur …
Dispatching excursions is one of my task and to make it easier for everybody, all booked guests are divided into several groups. They get coloured bus cards and colour coded audio receivers, so the guides know to which bus they belong.
Sorry, madame, this is not your bus! Your bus is the next one. – But I rather want to go on this bus. – But this is the red bus, you are blue! – But here is a male guide and yesterday the male guide was better than the female guide. – Madame, don’t you think it is rather discriminating to flatly assume a female guide, you do not even know, is not as good as a male guide, you do not even know. And by the way, the guide in the other bus is also female, in case you did not notice. – This is not discriminating. It is a statement, because yesterday the female was not as good as the male. – Well, today we have different guides, because we are in a different region and I promise you this lady is an excellent guide! – But we want a male guide, because they are usually better! …
Alternatively to the steam train excursion we have another excursion which visits Le Jardin Zen d’Erik Borja at Beaumont-Monteux. Erik Borja has been devoting his artistic flair to his delightful garden since 1973. The zen garden is now about 3 ha in size and consists of a tea garden, a meditation garden, a Mediterranean garden, a riverside arboretum and the south garden with two large ponds.
It is a relatively small garden, though, but quite pleasant to stroll through. Especially, when everything is blooming.
On the way back to the ship this excursion also stops at La Cité du Chocolat Valrhona at Tain-l’Hermitage. While there is no time to visit the factory or the chocolate museum, we just visit the boutique. And there is chocolate heaven! Chocolate overload! Most everything can be tasted. They have soooooo many different flavours and the pralines are just outstanding!
In the beginning of the cruise I explain clearly how to use the audio receivers – This evening you will find in your cabin a set of headphones and lanyards per person. Before each excursion you pick up your boarding card and audio receiver. Please immediately attach the audio receiver to the lanyard and keep it around your neck. This is the easiest and best way to use it and the chance that it gets lost in the depth of your handbag, you forget it in the museum shop or leave it behind in the bus is less that way! After each excursion, please return the audio receiver at reception, so we can prepare it for the next excursions.
Nevertheless, I find regularly a couple of them in the bus or have to make several announcements to remind guests to return them. The other day I had collected again 2 audio receivers in one of the busses and was waiting for the next bus to arrive, when a man came running back his father in tow calling out to stop the bus – They forgot something in the bus! – What did they forget? – Those audio receivers! Where is the bus? – Relax! I found them luckily! Next time please take better care! Those receivers are expensive. – You know, those people are 85 years old, you should consider that! – Sir, with all due respect, I do consider that! The majority of our guests is in that age group … That is why I explained how to use the lanyard. Look at the lady next to you. She is 92 and travels solo, she has no son to watch over her, but she did not forget anything in the bus … Joan Collins once said – Age is irrelevant unless you are a bottle of wine!
Excuse me! Hellooooo! I need to change my head set! It is broke? – What is the problem, sir? – There is only one ear piece on the head phone! The second one is missing! – No, sir, it is deliberately done like this, because with one ear you can listen to the guide and the other ear should listen to your surroundings. – … – See! I told you! You should listen to me with at least one ear! … Husbands!
Cruising along the river we also pass many of the Côtes du Rhône vineyards and making announcements of the sights along the river I also tell guests titbits about the different wines. A major area of vineyards is around the small town of Condrieu. Those wines have had an excellent reputation for generations. Already the Popes of Avignon have enjoyed the Condrieu wines.
Since 1940 Condrieu has the status of an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée and here wines of the grape variety Viognier are grown exclusively. This grape variety was brought here by the Roman Emperor Probus in the 3rd century and is cultivated on terraces. Those narrow terraces of the Appellation are generally made of granite and “Arzelle”, a mixture of decomposing rocks, granite, mica, slate and clay, which give the Condrieu wines aromas of white peach and apricot.
A little further on the river flows along one of the most famous vineyards of the Côtes-du-Rhône, which is the Côte du Rôtie vineyard. Here they grow red wine of the variety Syrah. Very steep terraces of the surrounding hills are used for those vineyards. Everything is done here by hand because no machines can be used. Here they produce a great wine with subtle aromas of peppery violets and truffles – says the advertising. Having said that, a lady come laughing to me – Oh my gosh, I had to write this down in my travel journal! “Subtle aromas of peppery violets and truffles” – What a funny description! – Well yeah, that is how they characterize their wines around here! – I love it! I have never heard such a description! I will have to find a bottle of this wine to buy and taste for myself!
The last stop before Lyon is usually in Vienne. NO! Not Vienna in Austria! Vienne im Département Isère is located approx 35 km south of Lyon. Vienne was a major center of the Roman empire. A former Gallic settlement was transformed into a Roman colony under Julius Caesar and Vienne became a major urban center, ideally located along the Rhône, and a Roman provincial capital. Numerous remains of Roman constructions are still visible in modernday Vienne.
Today, tourism is a major part of the town’s economy. Indeed, there are many important historical monuments that draw the guests. We have a walking tour that takes the guests to the major sights.
Ladies and Gentlemen, meeting place for the walking tour is in the lobby! Please pick up your audio receiver at reception and wait in the lobby! – Where is the bus parked? I am not so good with walking. Can I go ahead to the bus? – Madame, this is a walking tour! Your guide is waiting for you in the lobby and then the tour starts. There is no bus involved. – But nobody told me this, I thought there was a bus that would take us into town! – Madame, the ship is docked right in front of the town and the walking tour you booked starts right here. It is a walking tour! No bus involved! – But why not? – Because it is a walking tour!
The ship is docked right opposite the Office de Tourisme close to the center of town. Allyways are leading through the center and there are many Roman ruins everywhere.
You really do not want to take the audio receiver for this walking tour? – No, if the guide speaks loud enough, I can hear her very well. – Madame, our guides have microphones and you get the audio receiver and headset so our guides do not have to speak so loud. That is more convenient for everybody. – But I do not like the headset. I hope the guide will speak loud. – No, she will not. She will speak normally and into her microphone.
High above town there is the Belvédère Pipet with the Chapelle de Norte Dame de la Salette. The hill is pretty much in the centre of Vienne and was once part of the Roman town. The temple facilities were part of the Roman theatre and Roman forum below the hill. In the middle ages the kings of Burgundy converted it into a fortress with a church, which however was destroyed by the Huguenots in the 17th century . In the 19th century a statue of Virgin Mary was placed on a tower and the Chapelle de Notre Dame de La Salette was built. It is quite a steep climb but worth if for the views down over the amphitheatre, the city and the river and surrounding countryside. There is also a tourist train that can take you up there.
More than 100 years BC the Romans settled in the area and under Emperor Caligula Vienne became a Roman colony. It became the second capital of Southern Gallia and a well-known port city. The name of the town is supposed to be derived from Via Gehenna – the way to hell.
Across the river from Vienne lies St-Romain-en-Gal with today approx 2000 inhabitants. It used to be the ancient Roman residential city. This significant archaeological site is home to the Gallo-Roman remains of an ancient district of Vienne.
There is a wonderful museum – Le Gallo-Musée Romain – recounting the ancient history of Vienne and boasting a magnificent collection of mosaic floors. Last season I finally took the time and went to visit this fabulous museum!
The exhibitions are absolutely stunning. And there even is a model of the city in Roman times. Hard to fanthom the expanse of the ancient Roman city with its huge port when comparing it with the small town Vienne of present times.
The year before a friend sent me a link to an article she had found about a new archeological site here. They were building a residential block and had discovered another grand site of Roman remains.
https://www.euronews.com/2017/08/02/little-pompeii-uncovered-by-archaeologists-south-of-lyon
I did check with my guides in town and they told me, that indeed this is true. Unfortunately, public visits were only allowed on Thursday afternoons – since it basically was a construction site with archeologists trying to save as much as possible. They also told me, it would not become a museum, but the most important finds would be transferred to the existing museum and the building would be eventually constructed as planned. Maybe it was not as significant a find … I have to admit, I did not follow up on it in the next season, though. What I did do was go over and look through the constructions fence. It was impressive enough.
The cruise ends again in Lyon the afternoon before disembarkation. On some cruises we dispatch the Lyon City Tour from Vienne and it returns just before dinner in Lyon – the ship takes some 3 hrs to get there, the bus is much faster, of course.
The city tour is taking the guests up to the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière. In Lyon they say the hill of Fourvière is the hill that worships and the hill of La Croix-Rousse is the hill that works.
The Basilica of Fourvière has become a symbol of the city. It was constructed in the end of the 19th century in a dominant position overlooking the city. The site was once the Roman forum of Trajan, the Forum Vetus. The view over the city is beautiful.
The Basilica is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, to whom is attributed the salvation of the city of Lyon from the bubonic plague, the Black Death, that swept Europe in the middle of the 17th century. Perched on top of the Fourvière hill, the Basilica looms impressively over the city.
The design of the Basilica draws from both Romanesque and Byzantine architecture, two non-Gothic models that were unusual choices at the time. It has 4 main towers, and a belltower topped with a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary. It features fine mosaics, superb stained glass windows and a crypt of Saint Joseph.
Next to the Basilica there is also the Tour Eiffel Lyonnaise. Officially it is named the Tour Métallique de Fourvière and is a steel framework tower bearing a striking resemblance to the Eiffel Tower Paris, which predates it by only 3 years. With a height of 85.9 metres and weight of 210 tons, the metallic tower was built between 1892 and 1894.
During the Exposition Universelle of 1914 in Lyon it had a restaurant and an elevator capable of taking 22 people up to the top. Although used as an observation tower until 1953, nowadays it serves as a television tower and is unfortunately not accessible to the public. At 372m, it is the highest point in Lyon. Apparently, the tip of the tower is at the same altitude like that of its big brother in Paris.
Listen, a small complain I have. There was not enough free time during today’s excursion. I had only 10 min which was not enough to even go shopping for post cards. – But Madame, I was with you on this excursion, if you remember, and the guide gave 30 min free time in the middle of the old town shopping street. – Yeah, however, I had to use the bathroom and I had to search for it, because the guide only pointed in the general direction of the bathrooms rather than leading us there! And when I found it, the line was very long. So I had no more time to buy postcards. – Well, everybody sets their own priorities and spends their free time to their own wishes, madame….
The Lyon City Tour continues down to the Presqu’île de Lyon, the peninsula between the rivers Saône and Rhône. It basically extends from the foot of the Croix Rousse hill down to the confluence of the rivers. I call it the main center or the heart of the city. In Roman times it was an alluvial island and centuries after the founding of the city a connection was made by filling up the arm of the river and thus moving the confluence of the rivers 4 km south. First the peninsula was used for a military camp, but soon the trade opportunities of this space were recognized and warehouses were built. This district was an important counterpoint to Vieux Lyon – the Old Town – in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. With its Renaissance streets, with the grand boulevards in the so-called “Haussmann style” – buildings which usually have 5 to 7 floors and were in the 19th century designed to accommodate several families of varying social classes under the same roof – the many city palais, large squares and classical building, it is one of the many sights of Lyon.
Lyon is also known as one of the cities in the world with the most number of mural paintings – trompe l’oeil. Trompe-l’œil literaly means “deceive the eye” and is an art technique that uses realistic imagery to create the optical illusion that the depicted objects exist in 3D. Most of them are really cool and the most famous one is just totally amazing.
While painting on walls is as old as time, the city has taken the art of modern urban wall painting to new heights with nearly 60 outdoor murals. Some are breathtaking flights of fancy; others are marvelous depictions of everyday life so realistic you could almost walk into them. In the early 1970s a group of local students got to discussing the closed nature of the art world and murals would bring art to ordinary people, they thought. CitéCréation was founded and in 2008 celebrated their 30th anniversary.
Probably the best known mural is the huge Mur des Canuts – the Wall of the Canuts – in the hills of Croix-Rousse. Canut was the nickname for a silk worker and Croix-Rousse was at the heart of the city’s 19th century silk industry. This mural is a beautifully executed mirror of Croix-Rousse. It looks so real!
Another famous trompe l’oeil is La Fresque des Lyonnais, a mural of some 30 of Lyon’s famous figures of past and present. The Roman emperor Claudius, the pioneer filmmaking Lumière brothers, silk weaver and inventor of the Jacquard loom Joseph-Marie Jacquard, author and aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and others appear on their balconies by the Saône River. The famous Lyon chef Paul Bocuse stands in the doorway of a typical Lyonnais restaurant and at one of his tables is crime writer Frédéric Dard.
Just down the road is La Bibliothèque de la Cité, the City Library, another trompe l’oeil, which is located opposite a real second-hand book market on the banks of the river.
In Vieux Lyon the guests take a short walking tour through the alleyways and traboules, secret covered passagesways, which are a great way to explore the city’s past. The word traboules is said to came from the Latin trans-ambulare dating back to the 4th century. Every traboule is different though. Each has a unique pastel colour, a particular curve or spiral staircase, vaulted ceilings or Renaissance arches, most have doors on either end. Apparently there were some 400 traboules counted in Lyon, but only about 40 are open to the public, each clearly marked with a small identifying seal. The atmospheric Vieux Lyon and also the arty district of Croix Rousse have the most of those traboules. History states that the first traboules were built in the 4th century to allow people to reach the river to fetch water quickly from their homes. In the 19th century the traboules were mainly used by the silk workers to carry their loads from the workshops to the merchants at the foot of the hill without having to go out in the weather. During WW II the members of the resistance used the traboules as well.
Lyon is the third largest city in France. 2000 years ago, when Paris was still an island where a small community of fishermen was hiding behind palisades, the Roman Emporer Julius Caesar had conquered Gallia from here and Lugdunum was founded in 43BC. Fast it became an important traffic hub and the capital of the Gallic provinces.
The city itself has approx 500000 inhabitants and is known for its cuisine and gastronomy as well as historical and architectural landmarks. Part of Lyon is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site. People savour life here. Even though Parisians think their city is the culinary center of the world, Lyonnais know, here you can eat better than in the capital city. Unfortunately, our German guests cannot always savour the moment and enjoy the good food.
There is too much food on the breakfast buffet! I cannot eat that much! – Are you really complaining, there is too much food? Or are you joking? – This is a complaint! I do not want to eat so much! – Madame, the good thing about a buffet and a la carte is that you may eat as much as you want, but you also must eat only as much as you want! It is all in the quantity. The French call it régime and French women have perfected it. They just never eat everything up. They try small quantities of everything and always leave something left over. And if they have sinned one day and ate too much, the next day they enforce the régime again. – But there is too much food on the buffet! – Well, you do not have to eat it all! We do not force you!
There is no butter at the breakfast buffet! – Madame, but here is a whole bowl full of butter portions sitting on ice! – But there is not the butter in packaged portions in plastic. – No madame, but here is portioned butter without the plastic around it. – But there is no butter on the breakfast buffet! – Yes madame, there is! It is just not pre-packaged butter portions, it is portioned butter! Same thing, just without the plastic around it! – But why there is no packaged butter? – Because there is portioned butter. It was also packaged, just in bigger portions! – But I like the other butter. – Well, it is the same thing! It is butter! Only a bit more environmentally friendly without the plastic around it!
While on board all meal menus have French components in them, once a cruise there is also a French menu offered for dinner in our main restaurant. The crew puts much effort into this. On those nights there is a tapenade tasting in the restaurant foyer. French music is played and different types of tapenades are offered. Tapenade is the Provençal name for a paste of puréed or finely-chopped olives, capers, and olive oil. It is very popular in the south of France, where it generally is eaten as an hors d’œuvre spread on bread, but sometimes it is used to stuff poultry for a main course.
You know, I booked a cruise in France and for me there is not enough relation to France during this cruise on board! – What do you mean, sir? – Well, there is not enough French on boards. – Can you specify? – No, it just feels like it. – Look, sir, just today we have our French night. There are provencal tapenades to be tasted before dinner and you can enjoy a Pastis de Marseille as aperitif which is on special price tonight as well as selected French wines of the region! – Olive paste I do not like! Anis liqueur is terrible! Who drinks this? And I come from the river Moselle and our wines are much much better! – Maybe you take a local French beer? – No, I rather take a Weizen. I hope you have it! – Yes …. I hope our French menu will be to your liking! – Oh, what is on it? Mousse the häääää? – Mousse de foie de veau! It is something like our German liver pate Leberwurst. – Aha naja …. but crème soup of escargot? – … – Burgundy Snails … – Noooo, I am not eating snails! – Then just take the French Onion Soup. – But for onion soup I did not come to France! What is for main course? – Coq au vin, monsieur. – Kokowääähh? Is that not a German movie? – Yes sir, it is, but it is also a French national dish. It is basically chicken cooked in red wine. – Alcohol is always good! I take that.
Listen, while travelling in France, I expect there to be baguette on a cheese buffet! Yesterday, you had the French Dinner and even though the cheese buffet was fantastic, there was only crackers with it. – Are you sure, because I cannot comprehend that. I inspected the cheese buffet myself and there was baguette on it and the chef even cut it fresh for everybody same as he did with the cheese. And in the end there was even baguette left over, which ended up in crew mess. – No, there was definitely, no baguette on the cheese buffet. – Look, madame, I checked the beautiful cheese buffet myself, even took a photo and there was baguette! It stood right next to the chef. I suppose you did not even look at the chef when ordering what cheese you wanted him to cut for you, but rather just starred at the food and pointed? – That might well have happened. But I did thank him!
There are guests that seriously complaining that there is not enough French food on the ship. Honestly, I do believe food does not get any more French, if it is written in French on the menu as it is here on board. The chef seems to think that sometimes, though … But … I also believe, that many people just do not really know what French cuisine is, because similar food we have in Germany. For example, rabbit or hare – lapin – is a stable in the French cuisine and we do have it on the menu once per cruise. But in Germany, for long rabbit has been frowned on as poor men’s food …
With La Grande Nation we usually connect multi-course menus, inexpressible dishes and expensive Champagne. Well, that might not be totally wrong, but if you think in France they eat frog legs, oysters and foie gras every day you have fallen for the cliché a bit too hard …. They love simple, home cooked food as much as the Germans do. After all the Choucroute Alsaciene is pretty much the same as our Sauerkraut!
The problem is at one side, that a lot of food is actually French, but we do not consider it French anymore … Quiche Lorraine is close to the German Onion Pie, Bistro Baguette we buy in the supermarket frozen food section as quick snack, Pasta Provencale we call Spaghetti with tomato vegetable sauce, Tartiflette is nothing more than a potato casserole backed with special cheese …
The main difference between us is that Germans eat fast and know almost nothing about Savoir-Vivre. Even the grand Paul Bocuse once said – “Many people have forgotten how to eat. They can only swallow.” Did he mean the Germans?
The dilemma on a cruise ship is always the controversy between the guests’ opinions. While some complain there is not enough French in the menus, there are others that honestly demand there should be a German cook on board since we cater only to German tourists … Here comes again my favourite quote about the tourist who travels to see something different …
