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India 2020 – With the Toy Train to Shimla Hill Station

26.01.20

At 04:45 my alarm clock rang and I had to get up to escort the guests from the last Ganges Cruise to the airport. I had arranged cold breakfast in the restaurant for them. That was no problem since boxed breakfast would have to be arranged equally early. So the Restaurant Manager had voluntarily suggested offering  a cold breakfast. I just went to get a coffee – they had a proper coffee maker here at Vivanta by Taj Dwarka.

At 05:30 the luggage was being brought down by the bellboys and the bus arrived shortly after – I was busy checking the luggage and having it loaded into the bus. Sharp at 06:00 all guests were on the bus and on a Sunday morning it took only some 30 min to Terminal 3 of Indira Gandhi International Airport. I was not allowed to go inside the Terminal Building without a ticket, but there was a Representative from the Agency who accompanied the guests to check-in. I just had to make sure that they all got in alright. Of course one had misplaced his ticket again … eventhough I had told them like 5 times in the last days that they will need it. Luckily he had a copy of his cruise papers where the flight details were also mentioned. But it sure was a hassle at the entrance … I just wish they would listen when I tell them things … oh well …

Once they all were in, I waved Good Bye a last time and off I was! With the Metro it was only 1 stop on the Airport Express Line and Rs 20 back to Dwarka Sector 21. I had arranged a late check out at 14:00 for me and therefore spent the morning catching up on the journal of the Brahmaputra Cruise after I had finished closing the cruise report and sent it.

Today was Republic Day of India and there was supposed to be a Flag Hoisting Ceremony at 09:15. I went down to reception at 09:00 to watch it, but I was too late. For once they had been early and it was all done already before 09:00. No problem, I went back to my room to continue writing. Just before 14:00 I checked out. I left my big suitcase with all the work stuff and uniforms – except the jackets and sweatshirt – in storage for the next 5 days here at the hotel and just took my camera bag and a small bag to the Metro Station. For Rs 60 I took the Airport Express Line to New Delhi Railway Station.

The station was rather large, but I was early for my train to Kalka. First I found a Station Manager or Ticket Inspector or something like that and asked if my train was going and from which platform. That was no problem – it was going to be on time and on Platform 1 right there. Next I went in search of the Tourist Reservation Center. I wanted to book a different return ticket from Simla to Kalka.

I had successfully registered with IRCTC online and had been able to book all train tickets, even one for that section. But it was not the train I preferred. The Himalayan Queen was only bookable 30 days in advance. Unfortunately, over New Year my IRCTC account got disabled – even though I paid the foreigners’ registration fee and had it activated by SMS and e-mail. I contacted customer care repeatedly via e-mail, but the only answer I ever got was – We have forwarded you inquiry to the concerned department … Annoying!

So … the Tourist Reservation Office it was and luckily it was open even on Republic Day! And it was not at all busy … I think, everybody thought it was closed over the holiday … I had my ticket checked once again to make sure it had not been cancelled along with my account. They said it was OK. For Rs 375 they were also able to book me a window seat at the Himalayan Queen on 30.01.20. While General Quota was long booked out and a long waitlist existed, the Tourist Reservation office is almost always able to book a Tourist Quota Ticket even on short notice. I had used it before – there is one at almost every major train station in India. However, they could not help me with my IRCTC account problem either … but they gave me a phone number to call Customer Care rather than just send an e-mail. I will try that sometime next week maybe, if nothing comes of my e-mail inquiry shortly.

After I had gotten my ticket I had to pass security x-ray again to get on the platform. There was a food court and I bought some Hakka Noodles for Rs 60 and a newspaper at the bookstall next door. I found a seat on the platform, had lunch and read the Sunday Paper.

Later I wandered to the information board once more – it was outside – to check if my train was still leaving on Platform 1 and it was. Then I had to pass the security check point again. Luckily it was just a luggage x-ray and they did not really do anything. It was probably more to fence off offenders. Anyway, nobody without a train ticket or at least a platform ticket was allowed to get on the platform anyway. But even that was not checked … at least not with me.

For a while I sat in the Ladies Waiting Room. It is usually quieter there, but today were some kids running around. Nevertheless, it was better than on the crowded platform where another train was leaving before mine. My Shatabdi Express #12005 started from this station. The train arrived empty about 30 min ahead of time. I had to ask some guys if they knew where my coach was stopping, but they did not know either. An old man then helped me and I was at the right spot when the train came. The coach numbers were displayed on the platform – but that train had many many coaches … if I had waited at the wrong end it would have taken me forever to find the right coach. But again I was lucky and my E1 AC Chair coach stopped right where I was standing.

It was a rather nice AC coach – OK not as modern as the German ICE … but definitely worth the RS 1295 I had paid. There was so much legroom! Definitely more than in the ICE! I had a window seat in direction of travel. That was nice. Even though shortly after a very punctual departure, the sun set and it was dark.

Security was tight on the train as well. There were Army Guards between the coaches and an Army Officer came checking if every piece of luggage in the shelf above was accompanied by somebody. Then the conductor came to check the tickets … he also had a bar code reader for the e-ticket. Very modern! And I was obviously travelling First Class – a waiter was busy distributing water bottles, juice and even snacks and tea. All that was Rs 90, but that was OK.

The ride was smooth with a few stops along the way and all along we were perfectly on time. I did some writing as well. There was much journal to catch up on.

Most people got off in Chandighar – also my seat neighbour – a nice lady who spoke perfect English and we chatted a little bit. From Chandighar – which I had visited in 2011 already – it was not far to Kalka. We arrived actually 5 min ahead of schedule at 21:15. Since I was in the second last coach I had to walk all along the platform to the exit. The flyover at this end was closed and under repair, unfortunately. Otherwise I would have been very close to the hotel I had booked.

But that was not a problem – this way I passed through the entire station and I could already see where my Toy Train would be leaving tomorrow morning …

I had deliberately booked a hotel close to the station and indeed it was just 500 m along the road parallel to the train tracks. Google maps wanted to lead me around  the block, but I could see the lit up fassade of Lotus Grand Hotel already from afar and they had a train travellers friendly entrance. Ahead of me was a large family from Bangladesh checking in for the night as well on their way directly from Bangladesh via Kolkata and Delhi to Shimla the next morning.

This stay I had booked via Cleartrip and it was fully paid already. So check in was quick. I was the only Westerner. Clearly they did mostly cater to people passing through on their way to Shimla – they were very efficient. When I signed the huge registration book I could however not see another Westerner arrived in the last few days, either.

My room was large with large windows to the main road on the opposite side of the building from the train tracks. Not much traffic, though. It was cold in Kalka and I did contemplate taking a hot shower. But something was wrong with the water. When I tried there was absolutely no water coming out of the tabs. They did call me if I wanted to have dinner – but it was already 22:00 – No, thank you! But can you check the water, please, there is no water in the bathroom … Somebody came to check within 3 minutes – He opened the tap and some water – even warm water – came … I could not be bothered taking a shower, though. And when I tried the next morning … there was no water coming out again … oh well …

27.01.2020

I slept straight away last night – there was no English channel on TV either … And this morning I had to get up at 05:00 again. My train was at 06:20 and I did not want to miss it. I checked out and left by 05:20. The walk to the station was quick and I was there within 15 min. The station was busy already. Long distance trains were going frequently all night, I think. There was even a Toy Train at night! The first Toy Train in the morning was the Shivalik Deluxe Express #52451 timed to connect with the Howrah-Kalka Mail train, which comes from Kolkata via Delhi. Since I had the time I preferred to stay overnight in a hotel, though. On the Express train it was only 4.5 hrs from Delhi to Kalka. The night trains however take up to 7 hrs …

It was clearly visible where the Toy Trains were leaving – there are at least 4 in each direction every day – on weekends even more. They had separate platforms for the narrow gauge tracks, of course.  A lot of people were already there getting on 2 different Toy Trains. I was not sure which one was mine. There were no displays on the platform and both trains looked the same.

After I walked up and down the comparatively short platforms I did find some train numbers on the last coaches of each train and I was pretty sure the left train was mine. Fortunately a somewhat official looking guy – later it turned out he was the conductor but not travelling with the train – found me looking lost and looked at me questionably so I shoved my ticket at him and tried to smile this early in the morning … without having had coffee … He did confirm that the left train was mine and also showed me my coach … it was the only pink coach … Believe it! … all other coaches were the signature red and yellow, but my coach had to be pink …

I found my seat and put my bag under it, then I went for a stroll along the platform. The first train was leaving at 05:45 – I had deliberately not booked this one, because I wanted to ride in daylight. Here the sun rises at the moment at 07:17. I would already be riding the first hour in the dark on my train. But the next train after was too late for me, because maybe I wanted to see something of Shimla today as well. So … the 06:20 train had been my choice.

 

I found the Kalka-Shimla Railway Souvenir Kiosk – unfortunately it was still closed this early in the morning. They had coffee cups with the logo and I do need to have one! Must make a point on the way back! Hopefully they will be open in the afternoon when I return.

I needed a photo of the train engine … there are no more steam engines here unfortunately. But the diesel engine was at the end of the platform. Obviousely I was not the only one that had the idea of taking photos with the engine and the station sign …

In the train I had a window seat but riding backwards and in the center of the coach. The train filled up quickly just before departure. There was a group of young university students or such and they wanted to sit together. They asked me if I could change with somebody – Yes, as long as I get a window seat! … They did some negotiating with some guy at the end of the coach and then I moved to a window seat in the direction of travel but on the opposite side. I was sitting between a family, I think – no children, though. They were very friendly and kept offering me from their cookies and chips all the time. I was in the last row with the door behind me and so I could put my bags behind me in the aisle with other people’s baggage and had more space to move and take photos.

The Toy Train is small – especially for a big Westerners like me – it is not called Toy Train for nothing … but at least I did not have to hold my bags on my lap. Right on the dot 06:20 the train departed. It was dark and nothing to see outside. It was cold as well. I had put my uniform sweatshirt and the uniform winter jacket on, but soon I got my soft shell jacket out of the bag as well and put it underneath the other jacket. And luckily I had brought a wooly hat …

The coach actually had panorama windows and sky lights. Unfortunately the skylights were not clean … I think they had not been cleaned ever …

… so most people despite of the cold opened the windows or stood in the open door way. Soon enough I did the same. I was the exotic anyway … no other foreigners were on that train …

The sun rose over the hills while the train was chucking uphill. The Kalka–Shimla Railway is a 762 mm narrow-gauge railway which traverses a mostly-mountainous route from Kalka to Shimla. It is known for dramatic views of the hills and surrounding villages – I hoped I get to see some of those once it got light. The railway was built under the direction of Herbert Septimus Harington between 1898 and 1903 to connect Shimla, the summer capital of India during the British Raj, with the rest of the Indian rail system.

Its early steam locomotives were manufactured by Sharp, Stewart and Company. Larger locomotives were later introduced, which were manufactured by the Hunslet Engine Company. Diesel and diesel-hydraulic locomotives began operation in 1955 and 1970, respectively. Nowadays there is no more steam engine in use unfortunately. Only diesel engines pull the trains. In 2008, UNESCO added the Kalka–Shimla Railway to the Mountain Railways of India World Heritage Site. These are the railway lines that were built in the mountains of India.

Three of them – the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway and the Kalka–Shimla Railway – are collectively designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 4th railway – the Matheran Hill Railway – is on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. All 4 are narrow-gauge railways and the Nilgiri Mountain Railway is also the only rack railway in India.

My plan is to ride all of them and so far I am good on track – the only one I am missing is the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways. The 2 times I wanted to do it in 1995 and 2011 it did not happen – the first time it was not running at all and I had to take a bus – the second time the entire region was on strike and shut down, so I did not even make it there, we went to Sikkim instead. I was going to make a 3rd attempt this very April 2020 … At the time I visited Shimla it is looking good – the train was running as well and sometimes even on steam … In the meantime I had even bought tickets – to go up on the regular Toy Train and then also have a joy ride on steam … with the prevailing COVID-19 crisis holding the world hostage however … it is not going to happen again … I think me going to Darjeeling is jinxed … But I will not give up! It is still on my bucket list!

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway I did in 2017 and the Matheran Hill Railway in February 2019, in fact. And now it is the Kalka-Shimla Railway. There is another one, though – the Kanga Valley Railway – which I want to do as well. But this one is in the process of being converted to broad gauge … which is a shame … and then it is not so interesting for me anymore …

Shimla – then spelt Simla – was settled by the British shortly after the first Anglo-Gurkha war and is located at 2206 m altitude in the foothills of the Himalayas. The idea of connecting Shimla by rail was first raised in 1847. Shimla became the summer capital of British India in 1864 and was the headquarters of the Indian army. This meant that twice a year it was necessary to transfer the entire government between Calcutta and Shimla by horse and ox drawn carts. The British moved to the hill stations to enjoy the more favourable climate. In 1891 the broad-gauge Delhi–Kalka line opened and made the construction of a branch line up to Shimla feasible.

Based on first surveys conducted in 1884 and 1885, a project report was submitted in 1887 to the government of British India. After much debate and more survey, an adhesion line was chosen in preference to a rack system and construction of the Kalka–Shimla Railway on 610 mm narrow-gauge tracks was begun by the privately funded Delhi-Ambala-Kalka Railway Company in 1898.

 

The 95.68 km line opened for traffic on 9 November 1903 and was dedicated by Viceroy Lord Curzon. The Indian Army were sceptical about the 610 mm gauge chosen for the line and requested that a wider standard gauge be used for mountain and light strategic railways. Eventually the government agreed that the gauge was too narrow for what was essentially a capital city and for military purposes. As a result the line gauge changed to 762 mm with the track built to date being regauged. Some sources however state the regauging was not undertaken until 1905.

Due to the high capital, maintenance costs and difficult working conditions, the railway was allowed to charge higher fares than on other lines. Nevertheless, the company had spent  too much money by 1904 with no sign of the line becoming profitable, which lead to it being purchased by the government in 1906. The Northern Railway handles day-to-day maintenance and management and several programs, divisions and departments of Indian Railways are responsible for repairs. In 2007, the Himachal Pradesh government declared the railway a heritage property.

The track has 20 picturesque stations, 102 tunnels, 912 curves, 988 bridges viaducts and 3% slope. The 1143.61 m Bagot tunnel at Barog immediately before the Barog station is the longest – the longest bridge is 18.29 m and the sharpest curve has a 38 m radius of curvature.

The train has an average speed of 25-30 km/h. The route winds from a height of 656 m at Kalka in the Himalayan Shivalik Hills foothills, past Dharampur, Solan, Kandaghat, Taradevi, Barog, Salogra, Jutogh and Summerhill to Shimla Station at an altitude of 2075 m.

I spent most of the time shifting from my seat to the door and back … always trying to catch the best views. Standing in the open door or sitting on the step. Initially – after it got light – everybody in the coach was taking photos and selfies, hung out the windows or took turns by the open door. Eventually everything calmed down and I was the only one that still sat in the door way.

The stops were frequent and every time it was for more than a couple of minutes, everybody got off to have chai or stretch their legs. At some stations the downhill train passed as well.

 

Some of the university students wanted a selfie with the foreigner … No, problem, but then I want one as well!

Regular steam-locomotive operation ended here unfortunately in 1971. The railway’s first diesel locomotives – manufactured by Arnold Jung Lokomotivfabrik from Rheinland-Pfalz in Germany – began operating in 1955 – they were eventually regauged, reclassified and used on the Matheran Hill Railway during the 1970s. In the 1960s locomotives from Maschinenbau Kiel in Germany were introduced, but were later transferred to other lines as well. Currently the line operates with diesel-hydraulic locomotives built between 1970 and 1982 by Chittaranjan Locomotive Works India.

The train line gradually winds its way upwards through rugged mountains and pine forests. I was on the Kalka-Shimla Express #52453 – a general train with 10 stops. Most tourists go on the Himalayan Queen #52455 which connects with the Himalayan Queen from Delhi and departs Kalka at 12:10 – but that had been to late for me, I wanted to arrive earlier. It is said the best views are on the right side of the train when going to Shimla and the left side when returning – which is somewhat true – but the train was zigzagging up the mountain and tunnels … often there were stunning  views on the other side as well.

At one of the small stations there was even an awesome view to the snow capped Himalayas in the far distance.

The sun came out during the morning and the views were even more beautiful.  The route encompasses a vast display of awe-inspiring landscapes treating passengers with breathtaking views of rugged mountains, lush pine forests, waterfalls, valleys and picture-perfect hill stations along the way. The settlements were sometimes small, sometimes very large and spread over the hills. Houses in all colours were plastered against steep hill sides and had me wonder how people get to their houses everyday …

I had read on the internet, that the Toy Train is notoriously delayed every time … not so today! Right on time … actually 5 min ahead of time according to the station clock – 11:35 was the scheduled time and we were there at 11:30!

Getting out of the station was a bit confusing for me … I think I missed a turn and went the long way … I walked past the taxi stand – No, thank you! No taxi! – and then had to switch back and follow the main road – all the time steep up hill. Later I saw people walking up stairs from behind the station building. I had not seen that stair case and took a detour. Oh well … I had a booking at Hotel Lords Regency Shimla and the GPS said 14 min walk. I think it did not know it was going uphill all the time and I was not in shape at all! With my bags I was huffing, puffing and weezing all the way … I took a couple of breaks to admire the view over the town and to catch my breath, though.

Somehow I had to go over a ridge to reach the hotel. There was a tunnel, but I thought it was only for cars and not for pedestrians, because everybody walked up the hill … And google sent me uphill as well … Lucky I had to go down the other side again! Soon – after approx 20 min – I stood in front of a sign stating Lords Regency up stairs. So I walked up a long flight of stairs, around a corner and more stairs and more stairs … All of a sudden some guy in a hotel uniform – the bellboy of my hotel, it turned out – came calling after me asking which hotel I was going … I had missed the reception … had gone too far up … he escorted me down almost all of those stairs again … at least he took my bag …

The reception was not marked as such and I had simply missed the door after the first set of stairs! Check in was quick, though, and I paid in cash. They had not charged my credit card yet. This reservation I had made via booking and not cleartrip. My room however was indeed 2 floors up from reception … Damn, I had been on that level already outside … The room was large and had a nice mountain view to the north. Only that up here at some 2000 m altitude it was cloudy now. No more sun here. At least it was not windy. I paid Rs 4200 per night – it was the most central option  and the one with the best mountain view still in my price range, I could find. Hopefully, the view will be better tomorrow … hopefully  …

In the house it was cold! Central heating is unheard of in India … even in the mountains … I took a break and did some photo posting, before I went for a walk. The guy from reception who had shown me to my room, had told me there is a lift that takes me to the uppermost level close to The Mall – that is how they call the city center here. Happily I went in search for that and rode it all the way to the top floor. There I was only slightly higher than I walked before the guy called me down to reception earlier … duh … Anyway, some stairs were leading to the next street which was going uphill a bit, but only a few minutes later I indeed reached the main pedestrian street leading to The Mall! There it almost leveled out to an only slightly uphill path.

The town was packed with people. Shimla – also known as Simla – is the Queen of the Hill Stations and the capital and largest city of the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. In 1864, Shimla was declared as the summer capital of British India. After independence, the city became the capital of Punjab and was later made the capital of Himachal Pradesh. It is the principal commercial, cultural and educational centre of the state.

The climatic conditions attracted the British to establish the city in the dense forests of the Himalayan foothills. As the summer capital, Shimla hosted many important political meetings including the Simla Accord of 1914 and the Simla Conference of 1945. Even after independence, the city remained an important political centre, hosting the Simla Agreement of 1972.

Shimla is home to a number of buildings that are styled in the Tudorbethan and neo-Gothic architectures dating from the colonial era as well as multiple temples and churches. The colonial architecture and the natural environment of the city attract many tourists. Apart from being a tourism centre, however, the city is also an regional educational hub with a number of colleges and research institutions.

The Mall Road – the main street in Shimla – was constructed during British colonial rule and is located a level below The Ridge. The offices of municipal corporation, fire service and police headquarters are located here. Automobiles, except emergency vehicles are not allowed on this road – it is pedestrian. The street is lined with a number of galleries, department stores, shops, restaurants and cafés. I walked past all of them in search of food. I had not eaten much since the day before yesterday – only those noodles at the station in Delhi. The snacks from the express train I had all packed and ate some of them today on the Toy Train …

Walking along I passed the Town Hall – actually the recently renovated Municipal Corporation Building – which adds to the surrounding architecture, reminiscent of the pre-independence era. The building is preserved in its original form. The large steps and the entrance to this building are a common site for pictures. It reminded me a bit of Swiss architecture maybe …

Scandal point is the intersection between The Mall and The Ridge. It has been named so after a romantic legend. The name arose from the commotion caused by the supposed elopement of a British lady with an Indian Maharaja in 1892. The story goes that the Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala, fell in love and eloped with the daughter of the British Viceroy from exactly this point. This had led to the Maharaja being banished from entering Shimla by the British authorities. He countered the move by setting himself a new summer capital – now the famous hill resort of Chail, 45 km from Shimla. The most prominent feature of the point today is a statue of the Indian freedom fighter Lala Lajpat Rai – no relation to the scandal. But there is also a Police Post and the police men here have really cool uniforms!

Shimla – located on the south-western ranges of the Himalayas – has an average altitude of 2206 m above sea level and extends along a ridge with 7 spurs. The city stretches nearly 9.2 km from east to west – it is said it was built on top of 7 hills – the highest point in town is the Jakhoo Hill with a height of 2454 m. On top of that hill is Jakhoo Temple – an ancient temple dedicated to the Hindu deity Hanuman. According to the Ramayana, Hanuman stopped at that location to rest while searching for the herb to revive Lakshmana, Rama’s brother, who had been wounded during an intense battle. A giant 33 m high idol of Hanuman was unveiled at Jakhoo Hanuman Temple in 2010 – he is overlooking the town and is visible from almost everywhere. The temple is apparently accessible not only by foot, horse or taxi, but also by ropeway opened in 2017. I could clearly see the ropeway, but no gondolas were visible … Either it was under maintenance or whatever … Will see tomorrow …

I walked along The Ridge Road – a large open space located in the center of Shimla and the hub of all cultural activities of the town. It runs east to west alongside the Mall Road from Scandal Point on the west side. It is the major landmark and the most easily recognized place of the hill station. When winter sets in and when the country had its first major snowfall of the year, most newspapers printed photos of the ridge submerged in clumps of fresh snow. No snow today … but I had seen the first snowy photos on instagram already …

I found the mandatory statue of Mahatma Gandhi easily. It stood prominentally on one side of the large square on The Ridge.

In a nice pavilion there was the Ashiana Restaurant located. I had been looking out for a restaurant with a view, but most of them along The Mall had seemingly no views at all. Before I went to visit the yellow Christ Church, I needed food! So without much ado, I went inside and found a seat on a large table in the center. All window tables were unfortunately taken even though it was already 14:45 … I ordered a Kingfisher, Mutton Masala, Mixed Raita and Butter Naan and dug in as soon as it arrived. It was good! It was not the best food I ever had in India, but it was good! And I ate it all up.

With new power I walked around town some more. The Christ Church is visible from afar since it is not only in a prominent place on The Ridge, but also painted in a screaming  lemon yellow. I went to have a look inside. It is the second oldest church in North India – after St John’s Church in Meerut. Built in the neo-Gothic style in 1857 to serve the largely Anglican British community in Shimla, it is one of the enduring legacies of the British Raj.

Construction begun in 1844 and it was consecrated in 1857. The clock adorning Christ Church was donated in 1860. A British manufactured pipe-organ was installed in 1899 and extensively renovated in 1932 – it is apparently the largest on the Indian Subcontinent. Christ Church survived the 20th-century partition and the subsequent political upheavals on the Indian subcontinent and continues to be well maintained in relatively good condition.

I took a look inside – the church contains 5 fine stained glass windows. One represents the Christian virtues of Faith, Hope, Charity, Fortitude, Patience and Humility. The chancel window was designed by Lockwood Kipling – father of Rudyard Kipling, who is the author of The Jungle Book.

I walked down a steep set of stairs to The Mall Road a level below and followed this one back towards my hotel. I was not going to buy anything … the shops were mostly clothes and every day stuff. A lot of clothes shops … and a lot of kitsch as well …

Back at the other end I easily found the turn of to the alley that led to the elevator in my hotel. Before going back however, I checked out where that main road was leading … and … yes! It was going down towards the Railway Station! I had been worried, that when I leave I would have to walk up the ridge from the hotel,  only to then descend the other side to the Railways Station, if the Victory Tunnel is not allowed for pedestrians. But now, I can take the elevator up and then walk down from there – marvelous!

Just on the corner before my elevator was a Wine Shop … more a kiosk … not as barricaded and barred as in other Indian States … They have all kinds of fruit wine here in the mountains and I had to try something new! Rhododendron Wine! Wonder Wyne actually! Shimla is the center of fruit wines in India and pioneer in the Fruit Wine Industry of Himachal Pradesh is Minchy’s Food Products also engaged in manufacturing premium quality of fruit wines. Wonder Wyne is the brand name for wines made from the freshest and most select fruits, they say. Unique products of Sea Buckthorn berries, Rhododendron flowers – a favourite of the Gods for its healing and rejuvenating powers – and all fruits available – for example Apricot, Strawberry, Peach and Plum – are used. Of course I chose Rhododendron Wine … Apple Wine I can get at home … but who has ever heard of Rhododendron Wine …

The small bottle was Rs 300 and I took it. My hotel was just around the corner and I tried it straight away … fruit wine … tasted the same as the homemade Rose Hip Wine my Dad used to make 30 years ago … I would sometimes take a bottle on the train ride to drink with my friends when we were returning to the dormitory Sunday night during my vocational training … As we finished the bottle back then, I nostalgically finished the bottle this evening while writing. I would have to go back tomorrowfor more … well, I pass that corner on the way anywhere anyway … and buy another bottle to take home as souvenir.

It was cold in my room. But I did take a hot shower – the water was really hot. Then I took the extra blanket and sat by the window hacking away on my travel laptop … The power was all the time cutting off and the light was flickering. But once it got dark it recovered. Maybe they had a generator running only during the night …

Reception called later asking if I wanted a heater … Yes, please! … They brought ist straight away … That made it much better! I did not want to sleep with 5 layers of clothes … Not that I brought that much anyway …

I wrote until almost 23:00 and then went to sleep – it was nice and cosy as long as I stayed unter the blankets …