21.11.2022
For my part, I travel not to go anywhere,
but to go.
I travel for travel’s sake.
The great affair is to move.
Robert Louis Stevenson
Being totally amazed of how last minute my travel planning has become in the last couple of years I had booked a flight to Jakarta just over 2 weeks ago … Until a week before that I did not even have Indonesia on my radar … well, it was … but I had always associated it with package tours to Bali and I was not keen on that. A friend who had emigrated from Germany to Sulawesi several years ago had kept telling me to come and visit … but there had been always something else to do … before the world stood still it was usually work and me being happy spending winter in India or there was not enough time … because let’s face it … Indonesia was a large country and there was much to see … Then when the world stood still it was just too complicated to get there and not even my sister, who would spend her annual vacation in a fancy hotel with private villas on Bali regularly, would not go there … well, she did not go anywhere in those 2 years, really. But when she told me this summer that she had booked an extra fancy hotel for 3 weeks in January, because the world had opened up completely again, Indonesia started to appear on my map … but it was just a faint idea … flights were so expensive … to go anywhere really … By the end of October I still had no idea what I would do in December, if and where I wanted to travel … I just knew, I had do go somewhere. And since no work had come up … luckily … I started to look more closely at flights … still I did not know where I actually wanted to go … a new country … a place I had not been before and an affordable flight was the only criteria … Indonesia was not the cheapest to fly too, but after I had looked at flights and finally found a pretty good deal with Qatar Airways, I booked Berlin to Jakarta return for 4 weeks without thinking about it too much.
Indonesia was a country I could easily travel independently and get my groove back. Too long had I been on package tour groups … and while recovering from an intense season on the French rivers once more, writing end-of-season reports and decluttering and redecorating the basement of my Mom’s house, I got to planning … The lonelyplanet was quickly ordered … There was too much to see in too little time. Unfortunately my friend on Sulawesi had decided to show his daughter the first snow of her life and was visiting family in Germany at exactly the same time I was going to be in Indonesia … Well, done! … Maybe I should have decided or communicated earlier …
Anyway, that spared me the decision between Sumatra and Sulawesi … I wanted to see Orang Utans and they were on Sumatara … and on Borneo, but I decided against going there … it seemed to be an extra trip … Borneo, Brunei and Sabah … Since I would save Sulawesi for another time when my friend was there, Sumatra was back in the plan. And every night I was planning … researching … reading guide books … reviews … having ideas … and slowly this trip took shape … It turned out 4 weeks was not nearly enough for what I wanted to see and do … Indonesia was indeed a huge country … but I had to fit it all in somehow. Luckily I could backpack without watching the budget too much …
And there were no more PCR tests or such required. What a relief! I double and triple checked what documents I needed … it seemed only vaccination certificate of 2 shots plus booster … well, by now I had 5 shots … and then download the PeduliLindungi app for that … which I did, but did not know how to put the vax certs in … well, all online forum sources stated the download was enough, if it did not work so be it, nobody cared … In the evening I was all packed and ready to roll.
22.11.2022
Berlin – Doha
This morning I had to get up really early … 05:00 the alarm rang and by 06:00 I got picked up by one of Mom’s friends who would drive me to the nearest train station. It was freezing this morning, but at least it had not snowed last night. So the drive was quick and easy.
The train had arrived already even though I had another half an hour until departure. My DB Navigator app for some reason did not work this morning, so I had to get a ticket at the ticket vending machine in the hall which was not a problem. Then I could sit in the warm train … at least I did not have to stand outside on the platform and freeze.
I napped most of the 1 hr 20 min until I had to change to the airport bus. This time the bus stopped at the right terminal and I proceeded directly to check in. This was where the drama started … The woman at the first check point only wanted to see passport, online boarding pass, PeduliLindungi app and vax certs and waved me though.
But once I reached the check in desk the person there also wanted to see a customs QR code … Say what? … You download the app and get a customs QR Code! You can do it while waiting over there! … Doing as I was told I downloaded an app and put all the details in, but nothing happened other than a turning wheel as it seemed to be working … I downloaded another app … got an e-mail … No, this is not it! You need the QR Code! – I tried, but it is not working! Internet is on and all! – But it is working! Somebody just did it! – Well, not with me! – Then go over there to my colleague he can help you! She said pointing to the first check point where now a man was on duty. Already totally fed up I shuffled over there again dragging my backpack behind and showed him my dilemma … Start the app again! – I did 3 times already! It is not working! – Then maybe try via the website! – Which website! – Scan this code here! … He held up a lamintated sheet …
As I did that and filled in the details more complete there, it was a very quick affair … within 1 min I had the QR Code! Halleluja! Why could they not have told me that in the first place? It would have saved me some 45 stressful minutes! The rest was a breeze – my bag was less than 17 kg … I did pack light … hopefully I have not forgotten anything. Lucky I was, she did not weight my cabin bags … she did with all the people ahead of me … maybe she had mercy with me, because she knew she should have given me the correct information about the website directly … Oh well, I would never know … and I did not care at this point …
But now I was hurrying it up … I had to pour out my last bottle of water, but I downed the piccolo I had saved for traditional reasons for after check-in in almost one long sip before security check. Fortunately, the line at security check was short and the check very quick. In duty free I grabbed a traditional bottle of medicinal vodka and headed straight through automatic passport control and for the food court. Traditions have to be followed … after all I still had time until boarding … a Tom Kha Gai with Fried Noodles at Asia Gourmet was in order.
Still I had time to get a wine from duty free … those coins rattling in my jacket pocket had to go … and sit by the window checking mails and making a phone call before boarding started. There were less Soccer fans going for the world cup in Qatar than I had expected, but those few were mighty noisy. Hopefully they would not sing all through the flight …
I had chosen a seat in the far back of the plane in hope of having space. Initially I was in the center part and the row was full, but after boarding was finished, I quickly moved over to the window side … the last row was empty and I had 2 seats and a lot of space by the window. The food was Chicken and Rice and so so … but I had a couple of Gin & Tonics and watched some movies.
We landed on time in Doha just before 21:00 local time. Flight time had been approx 6 hrs with Doha being 2 hrs ahead of Germany. After another security check I wandered around checking out my options for my return flight. I would have a 19 hrs layover and had been hoping to go out and see something of Doha – a new country to tick off the list. But as it looked at the moment, I would not be able to, because the visa regulation for the FIFA World Cup was in place until 22.12. meaning entrance was only granted for fans holding a match ticket etc.
But I found an in-transit airport hotel for US$ 316 minimum charge … uff … and then there was Oryx Lounge for which tickets could be booked online. Will have to check that out and see what it comes up to for 12 hrs …
Almost defeated I went on a mission to find a bar … that was easier said than done. I should have gone into the first one I found, but I thought there might be more. Unfortunately that was not the case. I did a nice tour of transit, though and there was plenty to see. Some public viewing areas for world cup games, plenty decoration, several food courts, duty free shops of all kinds, and even a garden … but no bar …
So in the end I wandered all the way back to the first one. They did not have G & T, though, only wine and beer … but around the corner was a sports bar – loud music blaring and several TVs broadcasting the current world cup game … I id not even know who played at the moment … Nevertheless I found a seat and splurged in a Caesar Salad and 2 G & Ts whiling away almost 2 hrs. The bill came to 149 Qatar Riyal – some € 40. Oh well.
From there I had to wander all the way back to gate C 36 … quite a teck to be honest … and then just hung around there. Boarding would not start before 01:00 …
23.11.2022
Doha – Jakarta
There was not really much going on in terms of fan activity for the FIFA World Cup … only a couple times I heard some fans singing … there was one sort of public viewing area close by which was decorated and had a lounging green area with football bean bags. It was probably also a good place to just hang and sleep on a long layover … but some people even watched the football.
While waiting I browsed on the internet and found on one of the resourceful traveller pages I followed on facebook that it might be possible to get a HAYA Card – the Qatar visa replacement during the world cup – after 02.12. also without having a match ticket, meaning travel to Qatar would be possible again without watching the world cup. If that was true – and I would have to verify before I return on 20.12. when the world cup would have finished anyway already – I would not have to hang at the airport for 19 hrs, but could actually go out and see some of the city sights in the afternoon and evening and then come back to transit and stay at the lounge during the night. Will have to see …
Boarding started on time – once again we had to get on a bus to the plane. I had a seat in the center of the plane this time and was lucky one seat of the 3 stayed empty, so we had some space. The plane was full with Indonesians going home. By now I was tired. But I watched the end of a movie I started on the last plane. Food was actually breakfast – omelette with chicken sausage, yoghurt and fruits. I still had a G & T with it, though.
Starting to watch another movie, I soon fell asleep and did sleep a long time. I only woke up when the lights were turned on for lunch. Food again! This time I had Beeef with mashed potatoes, a salad and dessert. I was not hungry, but the beef was OK, the salad was not to my liking, but the dessert was really good. This time I had a white wine with it and as usually lots of mango juice and water.
Watching more movies I napped a bit more as well until we landed on time in Jakarta around 14.50 local time. Jakarta was 6 hrs ahead of Germany. I took my time wandering to immigration. Everywhere were signs to do the customs declaration online to get the QR code. Good thing I had it already.
Then there was the health check – automatic temperature screening and vax cert check at a desk. That was no problem – a stamp on the boarding pass and done. I was not sure if masks were mandatory here. I had put mine on whenever it got to crowded and here at the airport most people were wearing one. Everywhere there were scan signs for this PeduliLindungi App … locals did the scan, but I did not see any Westerners do it … – I think it was something similar like the warn app in Germany only you had to check in manually. I did not. Nobody was forced to do it, so what the heck.
I had to get Visa on Arrival and I was lucky there was absolutely no line up and it was relatively easy – first I had to go to the payment desk – it was IDR 500 000 in cash – I paid € 35 and got IDR 7000 in change. With the payment receipt I had to line up a few desks over to get the actual visa stuck in the passport. I asked if it might have been double entry, but that was not possible on arrival, so when I returned I would have to pay again. Oh well. Whatever. The good thing was, I did not have to line up for another stamp, the visa was already validated.
When I came out to the luggage carrousel I did not have to wait long for my bag to arrive. Getting organized I walked out ready for adventure. My mission was first to get sorted with a SIM card and then to take the Rail Link to the city. Still inside I had found an ATM machine and pulled IDR 2 500 000 – this quick I was a millionaire … well, it was roughly only € 150 for a start. There would be more millions to be spent, I guess.
The only other time I ever had been a millionaire was on my very first trip to Asia in 1995/96, when I went to Vietnam. No ATM machines back then, but cash and travellers cheques. At the airport I had hooked up with 3 other girls, because back then the lonelyplanet – the only really usable guidebook in those days – stated it would be better to do so in oder to save on accommodation by sharing rooms. And when we went to the bank in Hanoi, they had stacks of Vietnamese Dong piled up on top of the safe … they did not fit inside the safe …
Outside the terminal there were many people … Taxi! Taxi? Where do you go? Taxi? … I friendly waved them all off and headed straight to the SIM card stall. I opted for 20 GB for 1 month and with SIM and activation had to pay IDR 330 000 which was € 20. The airport WIFI was excellent, but it was good to be online elsewhere as well.
In search of the Rail Link Airport Train I did check with the taxi desks, but they wanted IDR 400 000 to 460 000 to my hotel … Aahhh … I was not in a hurry and I had decided to be a bit more adventurous and shoestringy … so the train was my choice of transport today. It was very humid here and dark rain clouds hung low. The temperature display only stated 23°C, but for me it felt much warmer.
I found the free sky train linking the airport terminals with the Rail Link Station. Once there getting a train ticket was easy enough at the ticket vending machine. I had to put my Indonesian phone number in it … where did I put that paper the guy at the SIM shop gave me? … and paid with credit card. IDR 70 000 – € 4.30 – for a 45 min ride to the city. Better and faster than the taxi quotes so far.
The train was new and fancy. Everybody was wearing mask so I put mine on again as well. The train was very empty, though. Funny I found the Plexiglas separations between each seat. They seemed to be permanent now. The train was cold like a freezer and I had to put my jumper back on before I settled in for the ride.
Now I had time to see how to get to my hotel from the train station. I realized I should have checked that before. I could have gotten off either at the 2nd stop instead of the 3rd and taken a taxi from there which would have been the quickest. Or I could have paid one extra stop and changed there to another train to go closer to my hotel. But I did not, I paid to the main BNI City station and had to get off there. Tickets were checked at the exit again.
Walking out of the station I checked the bluebird taxi app – I was not going to book a ride there, but I could see where cars were waiting close by and walked there. It had been raining during the ride, but now it had almost stopped, but still lightning and low thunder were present in the distance. It was really dark with the rain clouds – well it was around 17:45 by now … sunset was close and then it would be quickly completely dark … Not far out of the station and down an alley I quickly found some taxis waiting and it was easy – no haggling, nothing. Just – Where you go? Get in! Meter turned on. It was a straight forward ride up a main road from the station north through the city center. Traffic was heavy. Many motorbikes. City busses were packed at this time. Night fell quickly now.
It was good to be back in Asia after so long! So far Jakarta reminded me a bit of Bangkok. All the traffic and hustle and bustle … The ride to Maxone Hotel Platinum Hayam Wuruk was not long … some 5 km and less than 20 min later I arrived. IDR 39 000 said the taxi meter – € 2,40 – I gave him IDR 45000 because that was all the change I had. The ATM had only spat out IDR 100 000 notes.
Check-in at the hotel was quick. I paid in cash IDR 1 490 000 including a IDR 50 000 security deposit which I would get back in the end. My room was on the 7th floor. It was nice. Small, but I liked it and it had a view over the neighbourhood. For € 29 per night I was absolutely happy with it.
Quickly I dropped my stuff and went for a walk – I needed an ATM again and food and beer … Lots of construction was going on on the main road outside. But in the building next door was a small shopping center. There I found an ATM and pulled another IDR 2 500 000 to be fluid. My credit card did not charged for cash withdrawals but it charged when I paid with it. So I was always happier to pay in cash.
There was a liqueur store as well and I got a couple of local Bitang Beers for later. A block down was a supermarket – it was a fancy supermarket and they had everything. But I only bought some purple Mangosteen, one of my favourite Asian fruits. I had not had Mangosteen in ages … since I left Thailand, I guess … I shall have them tomorrow morning for breakfast!
In search of food I ended up back at the small shopping mall. I did not want to venture far on my first night. I had to get the lay of the land in daylight first. So I stayed within a block of the hotel, really. In a somewhat Japanese restaurant I had a spicy noodle soup with chicken and a cordial orange juice for IDR 64 000 – less than € 4 … I was not complaining … It was not really Indonesian, but it was all I needed tonight. I would find something local tomorrow.
Back at the hotel by 20:00 I got ready for bed … I was tired. I finished one of the beers and watched some TV, then I already fell asleep. Jetlag and the long travel day was hitting me.
24.11.2022
Central Jakarta
Jetlag had me in the morning as well … when was the last time I had a 6 hrs time difference? I had not been further east than Socotra or further west than Iceland in the last 2 years and even India before that had been only 4.5 hrs difference … I decided to ignore it, but was up by 04:00 anyway. That gave me time to catch up on the journal and the photos and I also did some more research on what I wanted to do today.
It was light out early and I could admire the view out of the window of my 7th floor room. I looked South over the city. Jakarta – until 1949 known as Batavia or Djakarta thereafter until 1972 – was the largest city and capital of Indonesia. It was located on the northwest coast of Java at the mouth of the Ciliwung – Liwung River, on Jakarta Bay – an embayment of the Java Sea. In 1966, when the city was declared a special capital district, it gained a status comparable to that of a state or province. With approx 10 mio inhabitants Jakarta was the largest city in Southeast Asia and served as the diplomatic capital of ASEAN – the Association of Southeast Asian Nations. Its metropolitan area had an estimated population of 35 mio, making it the second-largest urban area in the world after Tokyo.
I had a Nescafé and my Mangosteen for breakfast. Purple Mangosteen – Garcinia Mangostana – was a tropical evergreen tree with edible fruit native to tropical lands surrounding the Indian Ocean. Its origin was uncertain due to widespread prehistoric cultivation. It grew mainly in Southeast Asia. The fruit was sweet and tangy, juicy, somewhat fibrous, with fluid-filled vesicles – like the flesh of citrus fruits, with an inedible, deep reddish-purple colored rind when ripe. They were so good!
By 09:00 I was ready to roll. I had a rough plan of what I wanted to go and see and do today. I left the hotel which was by the main road but in a side street. It looked nice in daylight. But the construction site along the main road was annoying, though. I had to walk around it some.
First I went in search of this seafood restaurant I had found online – Pondok Sedap Malan was supposed to be just a couple of blocks away. But unfortunately I did not locate it – maybe because it was still closed in the morning. I had to check the online photos again later. But I was moving in the right direction. I had decided to visit the largest mosque and the cathedral first.
It was really hot already. I tried to find a taxi, but somehow there were none close by. And while I walked I noticed the bicycle lanes everywhere … brand new … believe it. But I did not see one single bicycle around all day …
It was not really far – less than 2 km – to Masjid Istiqlal and the Cathedral which stood right next to each other. Traffic was crazy. It was probably good I had not taken a taxi, it might have taken longer. I came to the mosque first, but all gates were closed. Online it stated it was open, but obviously not. I was at the right entrance as well. Hmm, I shall come back later.
The Jakarta Cathedral – the Roman Catholic cathedral of Jakarta – was located right across the street from the mosque and their gates were open. So I went there. They required a mask to be worn on the premises, fine with me. It was a big house of worship. There was something going on, but it was not a mass or such, it sounded rather like a tour guide explaining the interior. She spoke in a microphone which was very loud for a church, I though.
After the arrival of the Dutch East India Company in 1619, the Roman Catholic Church was banned in the Dutch East Indies and was limited to Flores and Timor. The Netherlands was known to support Protestantism and tried to limit the influence and authority of the Holy See. During the Napoleonic Wars, the Netherlands, including the Dutch East Indies and its other colonies, fell under the control of the French Empire. In 1806, Napoleon Bonaparte installed his Catholic younger brother Louis Napoleon as the king of the Netherlands. Since then, the Catholic Church has been free to operate in the Dutch East Indies. The commissary general of Batavia was credited with providing land to build the first Catholic church in Batavia. This first church however collapsed in 1890.
The present cathedrals official name was Gereja Santa Maria Diangkat ke Surga – derived from the original name in Dutch – De Kerk van Onze Lieve Vrouwe ten Hemelopneming – The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption. It was consecrated in 1901 and built in the neo-Gothic style, a common architectural style to build churches at that time.
Not lingering too long – it was even hotter inside than outside – I checked again for the mosque gates … but they were still closed. If I visited the cathedral I had to visit the mosque as well. Maybe I was indeed too early … So instead I wandered north again to Pasar Baru a village in the city, but also a 19th-century market which was established in the neighborhood in 1820. Pasar Baru was one of the oldest shopping district in Jakarta. I found the entrance easily.
But also here I was somewhat too early. The shops were just about to open up. However, I could imagine this as a lively area with a maze of alleyways and arcades, shops selling clothes and all sorts of odds and ends, while small restaurants offered pasta, fish dumplings and meatballs. I strolled around and marvelled at the fruit stalls. Rambutan, huge Mangos, Avocados, Mangosteen … I was tempted to buy some, but I would have to carry everything around all day … too heavy and probably spoilt in the end of the day … Instead I opted for a cut up Mango to snack on en route. It was delicious!
Not interested in textile shops and shoe shops I headed in the rough direction of the mosque once more. But then I remembered to check on my geocaching app for a change. I had not remembered to do so since arriving in Jakarta … about time it was! There were not many caches in the city … very few and far in between … but I was lucky! Only 300 m away near the market entrance was a marker. I had to backtrack a bit, though. It was hidden in the Museum and Photo Journalistic Gallery Antara located in a Dutch-architectural building from the early 20th century. The building itself was formerly used by the Editorial office of ANTARA, the Indonesian News Agency. It was a historical building from where the Proclamation of an Independent Republic of Indonesia was spread out around the globe in August 1945.
The small gallery was open from 10:00 … by now it was 10:20 … a friendly security guy waved me in. There was no entrance fee and I was the only visitor. The only thing I had to do was check in with that PeduliLindungi app. I was not sure if it would work, but it did. The cache was supposed to be on the 2nd floor. On the ground floor was a nice photo exhibit. But the upper floor was also interesting – it seemed to represent the former news room.
Of course, I did not find the cache. Even with the spoiler photo it was not possible. So I did a photo log. I was here! Who wants to judge? Once more I was happy I had followed geocaching … otherwise I would not have noticed this small, hidden gem here. It was very interesting.
Now I was in the mood for another cache find. There was a multi cache not far away near the main post office which was close to the cathedral. I had not found any postcards yet, so would not buy stamps, but I could look at it and the cache. Somehow I took a short cut through the premises of the post office where all the cars and trucks were parked waiting for their loads, but nobody stopped me.
There was a nice statue in front of the main entrance – nothing was written in English, but I suppose it was a monument to the postman … maybe the first postman? I do not know. I just had to take the numbers of the date and calculate the new coordinates.
And what can I say … either I miscalculated or my GPS was messing with me again … but the marker pointed to the other side of the street. Luckily, there was a spoiler photo … and that location was sure on this side of the street … so I went looking … quickly I found the right fence post and in no time I held the tiny nano in hand. Happily I signed the logbook.
On the way to my next stop – the National Monument – I had to pass near the mosque again. And I could spot the gate open! Yes! I had to go see it as well. Istiqlal Mosque – in Indonesian Masjid Istiqlal – literally translating to Independence Mosque – was the largest mosque in Southeast Asia and the 6th largest mosque in the world in terms of worshipper capacity.
At the gate there was no check point or such. Only a bored looking security guy looked up from his mobile phone and waved me on. It was a very modern and huge mosque. Today there were lots of children around. A school class – all pretty decked out in their school uniforms – just lined up for a group photo and I took the opportunity to click a picture as well. When they saw it they happily waved at me and shouted approval
There was a stall to deposit shoes … but the guy there told me it was only for the people praying. To visit the mosque I had to go to the side entrance door ahead … he pointed in an approximate direction … OK, thank you! … There was no sign for visitors or tourists, but the security guy at that entrance looked at me … I must have made a being lost impression … and asked me … You want visit? – Yes? Is it possible? – Yes, come! Shoes out! … with shoes in hand I was led along the corridor to the tourist office where I was welcomed by a smiling guide. First I had to register in their visitors system. Then another tourist and his guide came and the 3 of us went with in socks on a tour.
Built to comemorate Indonesian independence, this national mosque was opened to the public on in 1978. Within Jakarta, the mosque was positioned next to Merdeka Square with the National Monument and opposite the Jakarta Cathedral. There was apparently even a tunnel connecting the church and Istiqlal Mosque constructed between 2020 and 2021. The guide pointed out Indonesia was not a Muslim country even though 85% of all Indonesians were Muslims, but they were all the same and they were good friends with the people from the cathedral and visited each other regularly.
After the proclamation of Indonesian independence in 1945, the idea of constructing a grand Indonesian national mosque was raised. Several locations were proposed – in accordance with the Javanese tradition the kraton – the king’s palace – and the masjid agung – the grand mosque – should be located around the alun-alun – the main Javanese city square – which meant it must be near Merdeka Square. To symbolize religious harmony and tolerance as promoted in Indonesia the national mosque should be built near Jakarta Cathedral and Immanuel Church – so it was built in Taman Widjaja Kusuma – the former Wilhelmina Park.
The foundation stone was laid in 1961 and the construction took 17 years. The national Mosque was inaugurated in 1978. As of 2013 it was the largest mosque in the region of Southeast Asia – with a capacity of over 200 000. The mosque had 7 entrances, and all 7 gates were named after Al-Asmaul-Husna, the names of God in Islam. The number 7 represented the Seven Heavens in Islamic cosmology. The wudu – ablution – fountains were on the ground floor, while the main prayer hall and main courtyard were on the 1st floor. The building consisted of 2 connected rectangular structures – the main structure and the smaller secondary structure.
The rectangular main prayer hall building was covered by a 45-m diameter central spherical dome – the number 45 symbolized the 1945 Proclamation of Indonesian Independence. The main dome was adorned with a stainless steel ornamental pinnacle in the form of a crescent and star – the symbol of Islam. The dome was supported by 12 round columns representing the birthday of the Islamic prophet Muhammad in 12th Rabi’ al-awwal. The prayer hall was surrounded by rectangular piers carrying 4 levels of balconies.
Istiqlal Mosque can hold as many as 200 000 pilgrims – the main prayer room, balcony and wing can contain 61 000 people, the space in the preliminary building contained 8000 people, the open terrace room on the 2nd floor could contain 50 000 people and all corridors and other places would hold another 81 000 people.
It sure was a humongous building and so different from the traditional mosques I had visited in India and Turkey. They did have a huge traditional drum, though – a Bedug – a drum usually used in the gamelan – the traditional ensemble music of the Javanese, Sundanese and Balinese people of Indonesia, made up predominantly of percussive instruments. It was also used among Muslims in Indonesia to signal mosque prayer times.
The tour of the mosque was very interesting, not too long. But the mosque was sure impressive. The Cathedral had been nice, too, but looked just like any other church in Europe. This mosque however was something special – very modern – it was monumental.
Heading towards the National Monument, I passed another statue – the Monumen Pembebasan Irian Jaya – The IrianJaya Liberation Monument – was a postwar modernist monument located in the center of Lapangan Banteng – formerly known as Waterlooplein, a parade ground of the colonial Dutch administration. The President of Indonesia, commissioned the monument in 1963 following the West New Guinea dispute in which Indonesia received the territory of Western New Guinea from the Netherlands. On top of the monument, a 36-m high pedestal, stood a bronze, bare chested wild-haired man breaking free from his shackles with his arms and legs widely spread, the former facing towards the sky. The face held a loud, screaming expression, symbolizing rebellion and independence. I was more interested in the Jakarta sign in front of it, though. It made a great photo.
From there it was not too far to reach Merdeka – formerly the Dutch Koningsplein – King’s Square – a large square located in the center of Jakarta. Merdeka was the Indonesian word for freedom or independence. Measuring approx 1 km² in area, it was considered one of the largest squares in the world. At its center stood the National Monument – often called Monas for Monumen Nasional. The paved plaza surrounding the monument often hosted national events such as military and float parades, as well as civic demonstrations but it was also a popular destination for Jakartans for sports and recreation especially on weekends.
The National Monument itself was a 132 m obelisk in the very centre of the square symbolizing the fight for Indonesia. It was the national monument of the Republic of Indonesia, built to commemorate the struggle for Indonesian independence. Construction began in 1961 and Monas was opened to the public in 1975. It was topped by the 14.5 ton bronze Flame of Independence covered with 50 kg gold foil. The bronze flame structure measured 14 m in height and 6 m in diameter. The obelisk and flame symbolized the Indonesia people’s struggle for independence. It housed also the National History Museum, the Hall of Independence and there was an observation deck in the flame. But I just walked around it.
I was thirsty and in desperat need of something cold to drink. At the southern exit gate there was a souvenir market and also food court. I strolled around a bit and then found a stall where I treated myself to a cold coconut. So yummy and always the best thirstquencher!
Continuing my exploration I had a closer look at another statue I had already spotted last night from the taxi – the Patung Kuda Arjuna Wijaya – the Victory of Arjuna Statue in the form of a horse-drawn carriage statue with a copper fountain. Nyoman Nuarta, the designer of the Arjuna Wijaya Statue – an Indonesian sculptor from Bali – created this monument around 1987. The project was carried out by around 40 artists in Bandung, West Java. It depicted a scene in the classic Mahabharata story, in which 2 figures from the Pandawa camp, namely Arjuna holding a bow and Batara Kresna, a coachman, were riding a chariot headed by an eagle pulled by 8 horses which symbolized the 8 philosophies of leadership Asta Brata.
Back at the main road I kept walking south. My mission was to find a somewhat more fancy top in one of the shopping malls and then have a cocktail at the SKYE Rooftop Bar on the 56th floor oft he BCA Tower. I could see the tower already ahead and while walking googled the entrance and found out the bar only opened at 17:00 … oh well, I guess I had to come back later … But at the same time I had a notion to look up Hard Rock Café Locations … there was sure one in Jakarta! And yes! There was! In South Jakarta at Pacific Place.
I figured I could take one of those Transjakarta buses to get there. The next stop of the dedicated bus lane was very close. Unfortunately when I got there, I could not get a ticket. A prepaid card was needed and at the stops there were only top up machines … Oh well, I was not going to go find a place to get that card first … quickly I found a bluebird taxi instead – I walked already enough today! IDR 40 000 was a bargain for the 20 min ride.
Directly I found a seat at the outside terrace and ordered a Jakarta signature cocktail called A Beautiful Day along with a Bali Hai Draught Beer against the thirst and Chicken Wings for lunch. It was yummy and I whiled away quite some time with another draught beer and more surfing on the internet. I had been walking so much this morning I deserved the down time. And I found out there was a Hard Rock Hotel in Bali as well, so I changed my hotel reservation for the last night on Bali from Sanur to Kuta close to Hard Rock so I could have dinner there as well.
The bill came up to IDR 554 000 which was still Ok. I did not expect differently in Hard Rock Café. The entrance of Pacific Mall was right next to the restaurant and there was a bluebird Taxi line. Quickly I got in the first one and instructed the driver to head to my hotel. South Jakarta was one of the 5 administrative cities which formed the Special Capital Region of Jakarta. It was however not self-governed and did not have a city council, hence it was not classified as a proper municipality. It had a population of approx 2.2 mio. In the days following World War II, South Jakarta was planned to be a satellite city and was a prosperous administrative city compared to the others, with much middle-to-upper class housing and major business centres. Much of the central business district was concentrated in Setiabudi. Initially, SCBD was a service provider and real estate investment, but nowadays, it was becoming the most integrated mixed-use area in Indonesia. The view of the skyline while leaving was remarkable.
From there it was a straight forward drive – I had obviously chosen a good hotel location right at the main road. We had to basically go straight through the city without having to turn at all. The ride took about 30 min and came up to IDR 60 000 … a bargain of less than € 4.
When I arrived at the hotel I realized to my horror that I had forgotten to bye a Hard Rock Pin in the Rock Shop! Must have been the heat … or the alcohol … Drama! How can I not have a pin from Jakarta! I was devastated and decided I would go back tomorrow afternoon to buy one. After all, the taxi was not really expensive. Actually very cheap.
For now I had to relax a bit. I took a 45 min afternoon nap. But then I wanted to go for an early dinner. I had not given up on the idea of having a seafood dinner. Checking google street view on the location of the restaurant I was already looking for this morning I found out the maps marker was on the wrong side of the road and I had simply missed the restaurant sign because I was looking in the wrong direction … Pondok Sedap Malam would open at 17:30, so I slowly got ready and wandered there.
Sure enough I found the restaurant – the sign was well hidden by tree branches, but otherwise it was very clearly open. In front of the restaurant was an open kitchen with crates and tanks full of crabs and fish etc. I was excited – I had found the right place to have dinner.
There were not many guests yet, but it filled up quickly while I was there. The menu was in Indonesian only and had no prices on it – but plenty photos. I did not care about the prices. I would be sure able to afford it, it was not located in a fancy hotel but in a dark side alley. The waiter spoke limited English, so I ordered by pointing to the photos … I could have also ordered by pointing at the actual crabs outside like I used to do in Goa … ah Goa, how I miss lunch at the beach …
To my delight they also had beer and I ordered a large bottle Bintang plus a fresh Mango Juice – I love Mango juice. The beer arrived first in an iced glass and sizzled down very fast. I could feel the dehydration of today, I sure did not drink enough water in this heat.
I had ordered Crab in Black Pepper Sauce and it was delicious! Lip smacking, finger licking good! And finger licking in the truest sense of the word. Eating Crab was always a messy affair. But it was well worth it. I should have ordered a bigger crab … The Cockles I also ordered where boiled in some lemony water and dipped in sweet and chilli sauce very good as well. I could not get all of the shells open and was not sure if I could use the cracker to open them. I rather did not take the chance and ate only the ones that popped open easily.
Absolutely stuffed and content with my choices I paid the bill which came to IDR 444 000 and wandered back towards my hotel. On the way I stopped at the minimarket across the street and had them put some talktime on my Indonesian mobile number, so I could make local calls if needed. I put IDR 30 000 on, which was not much, but probably well enough.
Back at the hotel the WIFI was not working anymore, but I did have my mobile data and enough of it. So I could still upload photos and catch up on my journal. By midnight I turned everything off – I think I was maybe over the jetlag by now – and slept.
25.11.2022
Old Town Jakarta – Sunda Kelapa & Kota Tua
This morning I settled into my routing I had established already on other tours … wake up early, catch up on the journal until 08:30 and get going by 09:00. Today I had planned to visit the old town. I figured I could catch a bluebird taxi on the other side of the main road. Kota and Sunda Kelapa were dead ahead at the end of the main road – the Trans Jakarta Road as I started calling it because it more or less ran in the straight line north to south.
There was no taxi close by, but I noticed minibuses plying the route and when one stopped close bynear me I asked the driver if he was going to Kota. But he waved and motioned that he was turning off. There were some friendly people around and they beckoned me to wait for the next one … which arrived promptly and was going to Kota. So I squeezed myself in.
It was a small minibus with tiny benches in the back. With my head ducked and my knees at my chin, mask on, I was lucky there were only 2 more small Indonesians in it, so it was not crowded at all. I was probably taking up most of the space. They called those minibus taxis here and they operate through most areas in Jakarta – except the fancy business and lifestyle districts – and go shorter routes. That explained why I had not noticed them yesterday, because they did not go through Central Jakarta. They obviously did not have air-conditioning and ran without any fixed schedule. But the convenient thing was they could be just hailed and stopped anywhere along their route. My ride was maybe 10 min – I got off at Jakarta Kota Train Station and paid IDR 5000 only. Bargain and quick!
Jakarta Kota Station was located in the old city core of Kota. Until the beginning of the 20th century the station was named Batavia Zuid – South Batavia. It served as a main station, along with Gambir Station, Jatinegara Station and Pasar Senen Station, for several intercity train lines across Java Island. Apparently it was Jakartas oldest railway station.
There was supposed to be a secret box next to the entrance as well, but judging by the constructions going on around and the new looking exteriors, I think the cache location had been removed and the cache was probably gone. There was sure nothing to be found here. But I did log it anyway like many others before me. A photo attached as proof. I was here!
Opposite the station there were 2 bank museums next to each other. I was not going to visit those, but the buildings very were pretty in their Dutch colonial architecture. The Bank Mandiri Museum was the corporate museum of the namesake Bank Mandiri, located in the old banking district of Jakarta Old Town. The museum was located in the former headquarters of the Netherlands Trading Society. Established in 1998, its collection consisted of various items related to banking activity ranging from colonial bank owned operating supplies, securities, old currencies, old Dutch safe deposit boxes and many more. In addition the building’s interior, old ornaments and furniture was kept as it whad been during the colonial era.
Just north of it was the Bank Indonesia Museum – the bank museum founded by Bank Indonesia and opened in 2009. The museum was housed in a heritage building in Jakarta Old Town that had been the first headquarters of the Netherlands Indies Gulden – De Javasche Bank – the central bank of the Dutch East Indies. The bank was nationalized as Bank Indonesia in 1953, after Indonesia gained its independence. The museum was designed to introduce the public to Bank Indonesia’s role in Indonesian history, such as monetary policies and payment systems that change over time. The museum also provided visitors with an audio and visual experience on the history of currencies and trade in Indonesia from the pre-colonial era to the present state.
But I wanted to go see the old harbour and then wander back through the old town south. There was a line up of tuk tuks outside the station … another mode of transport to be tested … I knew I had to haggle for the fare … motioning to the north and showing the driver photos of the old harbour, he in turn showed me bills to tell me the price … He motioned 2 … 2 is too much … 1 …. Ok Ok … I got in …while he was winding through traffic, I reflected on the bills he had shown me … had it been 100 000 or 10 000? I was confused and not completely familiar with the colours of the different bank notes … I had a bad feeling it might have been 100 000 he wanted … I had to point him towards where I wanted to go … it seemed he had not understood … then I made him stop by the entrance of the port after less than 10 min ride … and handed him IDR 10 000 … he started screaming and screaming and waved IDR 100 000 notes at me … and made a fuss … he would not take IDR 50 000 either … he kept pulling at me … IDR 100 000! … I had to hand it to him … Ripped off by a tuk tuk driver! Great impression for all the other tuk tuk drivers in Jakarta.
Typical tourist mistake. Quickly I decided to file this under the category of stupid things I make in the first days of vacation due to being jetlagged … and walked on to see the old harbour.
Sunda Kelapa was located on the estuarine of Ciliwung River. Sunda Kalapa was Sundanese for Coconut of Sunda and was the original name for the main port of the Sunda Kingdom. Today the old port only accommodated Pinisi, traditional 2 masted wooden sailing ships serving inter-island freight transfer in the archipelago. Although it was now only a minor port, Jakarta had its origins in Sunda Kelapa and it played a significant role in the city’s development.
From the 13th to 16th century Sunda Kelapa was the main port of Sunda Kingdom – a Sundanese Hindu Kingdom located in the western portion of the island of Java from 669 to around 1579. By 1511, the Portuguese had conquered Malacca in present day Malaysia and established the earliest European colony in Southeast Asia. Portuguese explorers reported then about the importance of the port of Calapa which corresponded to the port of Sunda Kelapa. In 1522, the Portuguese secured a political and economic agreement with the Hindu Kingdom of Sunda in exchange for military assistance against the threat of the rising Islamic Javan Sultanate of Demak and were conequently granted free access to the pepper trade – pepper from Sunda was considered among the best in quality.
However, in 1527, Fatahillah, a commander of the Sultanate of Demak, attacked the Portuguese in Sunda Kelapa and succeeded in conquering the harbour – he renamed the port Jayakarta. In 1619, Jan Pieterszoon Coen, an official working for the Dutch East India Company – Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie – seized this port and founded Batavia. During the early period of VOC, the port was mainly used by small ships which were able to sail into the canal and toward Kali Besar, where goods were loaded and ships were repaired in shipyards.
During the 19th century, the port was known as the Haven Kanaal – Harbor Canal. Being the only entrance to Batavia, it earned the nickname Roads of Batavia. The condition of the Haven Kanaal during that period was deteriorating and it performed below the accepted standards. In 1885, the Netherlands East Indies government decided to build a new Tanjung Priok port to accommodate the increasing traffic as a result of the opening of the Suez Canal. The new port was located 9 km to the east of the old port. After the independence of the Republic of Indonesia, the Batavia old port was renamed back to its original name – Sunda Kelapa – as a tribute to the long history of the port as the cradle of Jakarta.
It was not a fishing harbour and the boats were really big, but it was nevertheless interesting to walk around there. I had to pass the big gate, but nobody stopped or bothered me. The old harbour seemed to be just one long quai. Well, it was some sort of quai. There was a high mud dam probably to protect the road from flooding. Behind that the seemingly huge cargo ships were docked.
With the helping hand of a friendly local I climbed one of the wobbly stairs onto the dam and then balanced along. From up here I had a better look at the ships and observed for a while the loading of cargo. It was compelling to watch them do it more or less all by hand. I walked maybe a kilometre up the quai, but then the road was flooded and after I maneuvered myself down another set of wobbly stairs I turned around and headed back south.
Just outside the port area I crossed the canal and went to find another geocache – It was not far to Menara Syahbandar – Syahbandar Tower – where it was supposed to be hidden. The tower was built around 1839 on the remains of the old bastion Culemborg and served as a monitoring tower for ships entering and leaving Batavia by sea and also as a Custom office for goods unloaded in the port of Sunda Kelapa. At that time, the tower was the tallest building in Batavia. Nowadays it was part of the Maritime Museum and I had to pay the entrance fee of IDR 5000 – like € 0.30 …
The cache was hidden on the top of the tower, so I climbed the 77 steps to the observation deck. Since the age of the building was reaching 200 years it was apparently slowly tilting and was often refered to as The Leaning Tower. I did not see or feel the tilt, though. However, to my delight I found the secret box very quickly in its hiding place. It was intact and the logbook in good condition.
Having signed it quickly, I stayed up there a bit longer and enjoyed the view over the port area. Much construction was going on here as well. They seemed to improve the quai promenade. Below were also the buildings that housed the Maritime Museum. So I strolled there next.
It was just a few steps to the entrance and my ticket from the Tower was valid here as well. Have I mentioned that there was no other tourist around here? I had the tower and the museum all to myself … Well, maybe it was too early in the morning …
The Maritime Museum was located inside the former Dutch East India Company warehouses. It focused on the maritime history of Indonesia and the importance of the sea to the economy of present-day Indonesia. There were displays of models of fishing boats and other maritime objects from different parts of Indonesia. The museum also exhibited the celebrated Pinisi schooners of the Bugis people of South Sulawesi, which at present made up one of the last sea-going sailing fleets in the world.
The warehouses were built beside the mouth of the Ciliwung River and were divided into 2 parts – the Westzijdsche Pakhuizen or Warehouses of the West Bank constructed between 1652 and 1771 and the Oostzijdsche Pakhuizen or Warehouses of the East Bank consisting of 4 building units, 3 of them were now used for the museum. The warehouses were formerly used to store spices e.g. nutmeg, pepper, but also coffee, tea and cloth before they were being shipped to various ports of Asia and Europe.
Some of the warehouses were rebuilt at the end of the 17th century in order to create more space between the city wall and the warehouses – there, in front of the museum, the Company kept supplies of copper and tin. These metals were protected against rain by a wooden gallery attached to the front of the godowns. This broad gallery was also used by guards on patrol, because the path on the city wall in front of it was rather narrow. The wooden gallery was attached to the second floor of the warehouses facing the waterfront, but has long since been taken away. The remaining city wall in front of the Maritime Museum onwards to the bastion Zeeburg and a bit further west was all that was left of the wall that once surrounded Batavia during the 17th and 18th centuries. I did not contiously noticed the city wall and I also did not look for it … I guess I missed it …
During the Japanese occupation, the warehouses were used as logistics storage for the Japanese army. After Indonesian independence, it was used as a warehouse. In 1976, the building was then declared a cultural property. The building was inaugurated as a museum displaying the maritime history of Indonesia in 1977. Some of the displays are Dutch East Indian ship models and cannons. There was also a scale model of the island Onrust which was the former shipyard for repair of the Dutch East Indian ships.
In the field of traditional sailing, the museum owned various ship models from the Indonesian Archipelago. A model of a Majapahit ship from ancient Java was on display, based on the Borobudur ship depicted on the bas-relief from Borobudur temple. A particularly rare collection were the Pinisi, Lancang and Gelati traditional vessels. In the field of modern shipping, the museum displayed various navigational aids, Indonesian Navy maps, information about lighthouses and old pictures of voyages.
Having had my fill of maritime history I headed out south towards Kota Tua, but first I had to stop in a minimarket. The heat was getting to me – even though it was mostly overcast today, it was hot and humid. A couple of cold ice tea did the trick for now. I had decided to walk back – it was not really far. Too close for a taxi and considering my earlier experience with the tuk tuk … no thank you, I shall walk … On the way I spotted several interesting street art murals. I was a sucker for street art …
Kota Tua Jakarta – Indonesian for Jakarta Old Town – officially known as Kota Tua – was the original downtown area of Jakarta and also known as Oud Batavia – Dutch for Old Batavia. The district contained Dutch-style structures mostly dating from 17th century, when the port city served as the Asian headquarters of VOC during the heyday of spice trade.
The first point of interest I passed was Kota Intan Bridge – a hanging bridge located at Kali Besar. It was the oldest bridge in Indonesia that was built in 1628 by the Dutch East India Company. Now the bridge was under the management of the Jakarta Provincial Tourism and Culture Department. In the past, it operated as a Bascule bridge. The double leaf of the bridge would swing upward to provide clearance for marine traffic during the colonial era. Subsequently in 1655 this bridge was repaired again after the old wooden bridge was destroyed during a flood and was given the name Het Middelpunt Brug or The Central Bridge. The shape and style of the bridge had not changed until now. After the Proclamation of Indonesian Independence the bridge was renamed as Jembatan Kota Intan in accordance with the name of the local location, where in the early stages of its construction it was located right at the end of the Diamond Bastion of Batavia Castle. The bridge was revitalized before the 2018 Asian Games, which were held in Jakarta.
For a bit I walked along the canal – Kali Besar – de Groote Rivier – connecting Sunda Kelapa in the north to the south part of Old Town Jakarta. Literally meaning Grand River, ships usually sailed to Kali Besar, where unloading and ship repairs were also done in dockyards, but due to deposition of sand in the estuary and the ever increasing size of the ships they could no longer pass the channel. The boats were then pulled by horses and slaves. Larger ships, passengers and cargo were unloaded into small boats or barges. There used to be various buildings along the Kali Besar in the VOC era, such as warehouses, private settlements, churches and markets, many of them in European architecture and built in the 19th century – the canal was lined with residences of Batavias’s rich and famous. These buildings formed a historic neighborhood that became a tourism attraction.
Old Batavia was the first walled settlement of the Dutch in Jakarta area. It was an inner walled city with its own castle. The area gained importance during the 17th-19th century when it was established as the de facto capital of the Dutch East Indies. This inner walled city contrasted with the surrounding kampung – villages, orchards and rice fields. Dubbed The Jewel of Asia in the 16th century by European sailors, it was a center of commerce due to its strategic location within the spice trade industry in the archipelago.
Before I reached the main square I ducked into one of the markets … a souvenir market … I had realized, that I had left my sunglasses at home and was on the lookout for a cheap pair to wear over my spectacles. And I found what I was looking for … IDR 40 000 … € 2.40 … they would hopefully last this trip …
Fatahillah Square was the historical center of Old Batavia. The square was located at the center of Jakarta Old Town and a tourist area home to several museums. The Dutch architecture was impressive. There was some sort of performance going on or art installation … it was not in full swing and seemed to be in the preparation phase maybe for the weekend.
From the beginning of its foundation, Batavia was a well-planned Dutch city. The square that would become Fatahillah Square was first recorded in 1627 as Nieuwe Markt – New Marketplace. In 1632, Batavia underwent a major restructuration. The inner city was planned following a grid-like planning and crisscrossed with a network of canals. The square became completely enclosed with buildings. Beginning from that year up until around late 18th-century, the now called Stadhuisplein – City Hall Square – was flanked with the City Hall to the south, a church to the west, some shop houses to the north and the Tijgersgracht – a canal – to the east. In late 19th century, with the elimination of the Tijgersgracht and the completion of the Palais van Justitie – Palace of Justice now the Fine Arts and Ceramics Museum, the square reached its present layout.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the northeast shop houses were demolished to make way for the Post Office – now the Kota Post Office. I went in to see if they had post cards. But most of the building was occupied by some sort of food court. The small postal outlet unfortunately did not have postcards, either.
The name Stadhuisplein lingered until nationalization of street names in Indonesia after independence when the name was changed into Taman Fatahillah – Fatahillah Square – after Fatahillah, the pre-Dutch 16th-century commander of the Sultanate of Demak who recaptured the port city from the Portuguese. The former City Hall was made the Jakarta History Museum – also known as Fatahillah Museum or Batavia Museum – in 1974.
I wandered around a bit. However, I was not in the mood of a museum visit. I was not yet acclimatized to the humid heat of the city. At the small Tourist Information Center which was indeed open, I enquired if they knew where to find postcards. But the young man working there could only point me to the post office … been there … no postcards … I also asked him when the Café Batavia right opposit would open … it looked very closed and I had learnt in the last couple of years that google often had not been updated on the opening hours of restaurants etc … He looked at me surprised and pointed smilingly … It is open! For sure!
So, I wandered across to Café Batavia – it looked right up my alley being one of the colonial landmarks facing Fatahillah Square. The building where it was established was the second oldest building in the square, second only to the former City Hall of Batavia. Located on the northwest corner of the square, for many years, it was the only commercial premise on Fatahillah Square. The restaurant was established in a 2-storeyed early-1800s building – typical with a wooden gallery on the 2nd floor.
I walked in and was amazed. The original arcade below the gallery was enclosed by a glass panel, mainly to air condition the interior. A bar, a performance stage and a lounge area were located on the ground floor. I was escorted up a staircase of Javanese teakwood leading to the upper floor which featured the Grand Salon – the main dining hall which was able to hold up to 150 guests. It was constructed of wood and featured large shuttered windows, providing abundant light into the interior as well as a view of Fatahillah Square and the colonial buildings surrounding it. The so-called Winston Churchill Bar of Café Batavia was named The World’s Best Bar by Newsweek International in 1996, by the way.
Being a lonesome customer I could not get a window table other than in the very corner next to the AC unit … no, thank you! I rather take a small table in the center then. Settling in I studied not only the extensive menu but also my surroundings. I ordered a Watermelon Juice to quench the thirst before I would hit the cocktails.
The building had been variously used as a residence, an office of the Dutch governors and a warehouse. For several years from around 1884, the ground floor of the building was occupied by the wholesale business of the trading firm E. Dunlop & Co. It also housed the offices of Kongsi Tiga – Kantor Kapal Hadji, which used to arrange the Muslim pilgrimages from Batavia to the Middle East by steamship.
Since it was almost lunch time, I ordered a snack from the all day menu – Udang Kelapa – Fried shrimps coated with coconut, served with mango, cucumber and Calamansi – also known as Calamondin, Philippine Lime or Philippine lemon – native to the Philippines, Borneo, Sumatra and Sulawesi and ubiquitous in traditional Indonesian cuisine, it was a hybrid between kumquat and the mandarin orange. The food came quickly and was really good. It hit the spot perfectly.
Of course I needed a cocktail … a place like this just called for one! But it was not going to be a classic one … I wanted a signature cocktail or at least something I could not get anywhere else. They did have a cocktail menu and it was hard to decide … I had to look at the online menu of Café Batavia to find the ingredients of each concoction. In the end I chose Senja Kota – touted as refreshing cocktail to end your day … well, it would start mine … it came with a variation of Rujak – a salad dish of Javanese origin often described as tangy and spicy, some recipes may contain seafood or meat components – in my case some kind it was Tuna tatar on top of dry nuts and peas. And it came with a deep fried chip on top – a Krupuk Mie. Krupuk was a cracker made from starch and often flavoured with fish, seafood, onion, chilli or other ingridients. Most Krupuk were deep fried and a popular snack in maritime Southeast Asia but most closely associated with the culinary traditions of Indonesia, in particular Javanese cuisine. The cocktail was really tasty, the Tuna Tatar as well … the nuts and pies were just too hard for me and the Krupuk was special … not really anything after my liking.
In 1990, Australian Graham James purchased the building, at which time it was the only freehold property in Fatahillah Square. He restored the building and established the restaurant. The interior of Café Batavia was furnished with a 1930s theme. Vintage photographs of 1930s celebrities and royalty decorated not only the main dining hall.
Happy with my choice of coming here I eventually paid the bill which came to some IDR 356 000 … € 22 … and started my hike back to the hotel. I was not going to take a taxi or minibus back all the way. I was sure there was plenty to see along the way. And the guide book said to visit Petak Sembilan Market in China Town … so I wandered in that direction and soon enough reached Glodok as it was called here by the locals.
Jakarta’s Chinatown was one of the busiest and most fascinating areas to explore in the Indonesian capital, but also one of the least touristy Chinatowns in comparison to other ones found in major cities around Southeast Asia such as Singapore or Kuala Lumpur. I did not meet any other tourists walking through the bustling streets with motos whisking by, meat getting chopped and incense in the air. Glodok was known as Chinatown since the Dutch colonial era because the majority of the traders and residents of this quater were of Chinese descent. The area dated back to colonial times when in 1740, Dutch East Indies Company designated Glodok as a residential area for ethnic Chinese.
The market stalls in the narrow alleys were … interesting … as expected in Chinatown … everything was for sale … live turtles in a box to choose from, live toads on a string, crabs and snails … whatever was edible, I suppose. I cannot even remember when I last visited a real Chinatown … the smells, the sounds, the visual onslaught … it was wonderful to be back in Asia.
While I was amazed by the toads, the most provoking … or alluring … displays I found were crates full of Sea Cucumbers – that bumpy, bloblike marine invertebrate apparently appeared in cuisines around the world, but the highest demand may be concentrated in China hence finding it here in Chinatown. In China, Sea Cucumbers carried a number of culinary and medicinal uses.
Sea Cucumbers could be used as food in fresh or dried form – the creature and the food product were commonly known as bêche-de-mer in French, in Portuguese bicho do mar, trepang in Indonesian, namako in Japanese, loli in Hawaiian and deniz patlıcanı in Turkish. Most cultures in East and Southeast Asia regarded Sea Cucumbers as a delicacy. A number of dishes were made with Sea Cucumber and in most of those dishes it had a slippery texture. Sea Cucumbers destined for food were traditionally harvested by hand from small watercraft, a process called trepanging after the Indonesian Malay word for Sea Cucumber teripang. They could be dried for preservation and rehydrated by boiling and soaking in water for several days. Many Sea Cucumber species were endangered and at risk of overfishing due to their consumption. I have to admit, it sounded intriguing … I would probably try a dish with Sea Cucumber if I came across one just as an experiment to see what it tasted like …
I wandered the bustling alleyways filled with street vendors for a while and marvelled at the real people doing real activities – trading, praying, sipping coffee and everything in between. Throughout history, this Chinatown had always been dubbed as a hub of activity, a pillar of the economy and a key element in the city.
Reaching the main road again I kept walking south, but soon decided to hop on a minibus for the rest of the way. I hailed one and just pointed south … the only thing was that those minibusses were not plying the center and after approx 1.5 km the driver turned off the main road and motioned me to get off. IDR 5000 was the fare and I handed the note over before getting off.
It was only some 500 m further to my hotel. But on the way I found a supermarket and bought some beer and fruits before I found an ATM to pull another IDR 3 mio to be fluid the next days. Back at the hotel I took a short afternoon nap as had become a habit when being on tour.
Around 16:00 I got ready and went to order a taxi for tomorrow morning 05:30 at reception. I wanted to catch the 06:00 rail link airport train from Duri Station. Then I hailed a bluebird taxi at the main road and went to Pacific Place to Hard Rock Café once more. The ride was quick and uneventful and it came to IDR 55 000 only. Without hesitation I walked straight into the Rock Shop and picked out a pin. They were all IDR 300 000, so it did not really matter which one I took – but I chose the guitar. It would fit nicely into my collection.
Since my next objectiv was to watch the sunset from a rooftop bar – I fancied SKYE Rooftop Bar on the 56th floor of the BCA Tower, about 230 m high up. I had put on my best pair of trousers and a nice shirt for this occasion – they had a smart causual dress code – but it opened only at 17:00, so I still had plenty time and therefore wandered around Pacific Place Mall for a bit. Masks were mandatory in the shopping malls and I also had to show my vax certs. Pacific Place was one of the top shopping malls of Jakarta and was lined with Galerie Lafayette and numerous other fancy shops – nice to look at, but not my kind of setting. So I soon went out and found a bluebird taxi to take me to BCA Tower. The ride was quick and came to IDR 35 000. I arrived just before 17:00 and had to find the entrance first … which was always a bit of a mission with several one way drive ways and security checks.
Again I had to put a mask on and show my vax certs – by now that had become normality. I had masks and several copies of the vax certs in every bag and pocket. SKYE was touted as the bar with one of the very best views any of the rooftop bars Jakarta had to offer and an absolutely stunning 360° view over the city skyline and the surrounding areas. Sounded just like what I needed.
Arriving with the elevator at 56th floor I had to pay for an entry voucher IDR 250 000 redeemable in food and beverages … no problem. I intended to have a couple of cocktails and a snack … I was sure I would spend more than that …
It was not really busy yet so short after opening. My voucher was # 4 of today only. I found a seat on the western side of the loungy terrace outside in anticipation of sunset. The view that had been advertised was not quite as good anymore, because a couple of new skyscrapers had been or were being built right to the west of BCA Tower and kind of blocked the sunset view … but well … the rest was stunning for sure.
First I ordered a drink. Lucky I was that they had Happy Hour from 17:00 – 19:00 with a Buy 1 Get 1 Free on selected cocktails. But I had to order 2 directly. I opted for Alluring Lover – a concoction of Gin infused chamomile, elderflower syrup, fresh lemon juice, egg and grenadine syrup – plus La Passione – vanilla infused Vodka, Apricot Brandy, lemon, passion fruit and sparkling wine. They were served at the same time and I had the hard task to decide which one to enjoy first. Both were excellent … and beautifully decorated.
There was nothing much nicer than escaping the hustle and bustle on the streets of a big city for a while and having a good time at a rooftop bar. SKYE rooftop held several stylish lounge areas – both indoors and outdoors. The alfresco terrace came complete with a glittering rooftop infinity pool – which I presumed was not for swimming. On my – for now – last night in Jakarta I loved enjoying those views, some cocktails and good food.
Waiting for sunset I ordered a snack. I was not really hungry, but I could use something. From the Biters snack menu I ordered MB8+ Darling Down Wagyu Skewers – Tender diced beef sirloin with garlic confit & tangy horseradish aioli – in the erroneous belief that the plural of skewer would mean there would be at least a couple of skewers … and because I was intrigued by Wagyu beef. Wagyū was a designation for several breeds of cattle of Japanese origin and simply meant Japanese beef … In Germany Wagyu Beef was an exclusive and very high-quality meat and especially popular among connoisseurs and gourmets … Since I never tried it before … this was my chance.
I was slightly disappointed that there was only one single skewer on my plate … but it was a big one and it looked faboulus! After my mandatory food photos … yes yes … it had to be done … I savoured it very slowly … relishing every bite … sipping from my cocktails in between … Sunset was still some time off … around 18:00 … I was blissfully happy so far …
When the sun did start setting slightly to the right of the new skyscrappers, the terrace became quite busy with all guests flogging to the western side … my side of it … Since there was a high glass wall surrounding the lounge, everybody stepped up onto the benches to have a better look … a better photo to be correct … the staff had plenty to do reminding every single person to step down … Not that there were cushions anyway, just wooden benches … but still they made everybody step down. I guess they had to deal with that every evening … The sunset was stunning nevertheless …
A sunset is the sun’s fiery kiss to the night.
Crystal Woods
As the sun had dipped behind the horizon the city lights started to sparkle. The views were as stunning as before … maybe even a little greater … truly spectacular. Jakarta was sometimes dubbed the city that never sleeps because the activities in this capital city were never quiet – some of the sounds even reached all the way up here … but only some … the lounge music doused them out, though. I am not a big city person, but I always try to get to a rooftop bar to get a birds eye’s view of the city below. To come here to SKYE had been a great choice. The views were awesome.
I was not ready to leave just yet. There was no point … it was dark already … it would not make a difference if I go now or in an hour to catch a taxi back to the hotel … so I scanned the menu again for another cocktail. In hindsight I should have ordered another couple of them off the Happy Hour Menu since it was not yet 19:00 … but in reality I took one of SKYE’s signature cocktails – Green Fairy Spritz – a blend of Dill Gin, Pastis, Americano Bianco, Cucumber Acid and Elderflower tonic … It sounded great … It looked … poisonous … and it tasted … strange … weird … in fact … horrific … and set me back IDR 150 000++ … I drank it anyway!
To offset the really bizzare taste, I splurged and ordered a dessert – Camembert & Truffle Basque cheesecake with vanilla icecream, truffle dust, sliced truffle and maple tuile. I love Truffle … I was not sure if it would harmonize with vanilla icecream and cheese cake, though … but I was being open for anything out of the ordinary … after that caustic green cocktail …
Indeed, that cheesecake was delicious! It was truly and honestly absolutely outstanding! I wanted to devour it, but I slowed myself down and savoured every singel bite of it. I have to say, the truffle was most probably the Chinese variety and not the first class French I had come to love in the South of France … but it was sure a great combination and I loved it. And the presentation … I mean … that alone deserved an award …
Eventually I had finished everything to the last bite and drop and ordered the bill. It came to a total of IDR 647 000 … € 39 … minus the voucher of IDR 250 000 I had paid already. I thought for this place and the view and the ambience it was well worth every cent … It had been a wonderful sunset session and now I was ready to get back to the hotel … tomorrow was an early start once more …
I took the elevator down and walked a bit along the main road until I could finally flag down a bluebird taxi. It seemed that in the evening it got busier in the city than during the day. It might have to do with the heat during the day … there were sure more people around the shopping malls now. OK, it was not late … only around 19:30 by now … but still … it was busy and traffic was thick. I caught a lady driver back to the hotel and the ride came to IDR 35 000.
Tomorrow would be an early start, so I hopped in the shower directly after reaching my room and then packed everything for another flight. Watching some movies and finishing my last beer, I tried to counteract to the bit of sun I got today by putting a facemask on, sorted and posted some photos, caught up on the journal and then slept relatively early.
Tomorrow I was off to new adventures …
There are still many large white spaces on the map.
You can go discover them.
So do it.
Get out there and fill in the blank spaces.
Every single moment is a possibility
to go to these new places and explore them.
Peter Thiel
